Pawn shop muzzleloaders

[rodwha]

For years i attempted to salvage rusty muzzleloaders. Folks would bring me guns with roached bores, expecting miracles: Then i gave it up. It was relatively easy to remove the rust from the bore. Then the pits would abrade and tear the patches. Unless there is only very light surface rust; salvaging a rusty gun bore is akin to salvaging a 5.0 Mustang that was driven in Detroit for 20 years-it ain't worth the trouble.

A bore like that can be rebored if there's enough meat or lined. I wouldn't care much to have a bore like that just cleaned up.

 

[robhof]

Primo pawn shop B/P guns are out there, just requires some looking and for a good price, if you're willing to walk away, if they don't bargain. B/P guns usually sit for yrs in pawn shops, along with single shot and odd calibers; why I own a T/C in 357Max and a DW in that caliber, but to B/p; I've found a few good to excellent specimens and when they didn't bargain, waited a few months and went back, the guns were still there and I pointed out that to the clerk and we bargained.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Then i gave it up. It was relatively easy to remove the rust from the bore. Then the pits would abrade and tear the patches.

Yeah, that's why I use a jag, emery cloth, and valve lapping compound. After polishing if it still tears the patches, then they need to send it to Bobby Hoyt and turn the rifle into a smooth rifle.

I derusted my latest Bess Musket salvage job. Wow I was very surprised that the bore was rough, but not pitted, and the barrel looks like it's shootable, and definitely useable with blank loads. The big problem is the stock. It was a kit, probably from the early 1980's and poorly done, and even more poorly repaired. One needs a proper gunstock epoxy, not Elmer's Wood Glue when fixing cracks in stocks . The guy used finishing nails for pins for the barrel and some of the brass hardware, which can be done, but hello, you need to take the heads and tips off the nails AND you need to round the edges on both ends. Going to need to replace some internal wood, a couple of internal stainless screws, and reshape the lock mortise and some points on the stock after that's done, but I took on the project for the experience. Well, gee, I guess I'm going to get some shop-time in.

LD

 

[Bushpilot]

I have to agree with the others that by the time most muzzle loaders find their way into pawn shops often the barrels are usually a lost cause. However, with inline muzzle loaders being so popular I have found many, and I do mean many, nice, clean, traditional style muzzle loaders on the used gun racks in gun shops that take in a lot of trades at dirt cheap prices. The best buy I've found so far was a nice old .54 cal Mountain Rifle that I got for $50 because it had a load/ball stuck in it that the shop owner hadn't gotten around to pulling yet and was also missing the ram rod. Many good rifles can be found for around $100, especially after deer season. Keep looking and hold out for a good one, you will find it.

 

[PapaG]

I have "saved" several bp barrels with light rust or very light pitting by using lapping paste on a tight jag. Take full length strokes for a while, then concentrate on the rougher spots, then finish with full length strokes. I usually put a couple patches in the bottom of the bore to catch crud and then use a work to pull them out. Clean with solvent after and oil well.

 

[PapaG]

I have "saved" several bp barrels with light rust or very light pitting by using lapping paste on a tight jag. Take full length strokes for a while, then concentrate on the rougher spots, then finish with full length strokes. I usually put a couple patches in the bottom of the bore to catch crud and then use a worm to pull them out. Clean with solvent after and oil well.

 

[4v50 Gary]

$100 is a steal. We've got a member at TFL who was trying to get a TC Hawkins and the seller won't budge on the asking price of $350.

 

[D. Buck Stopshere]

Sometimes, your luck holds. Pawned for $400, bought for $600 by me, sold for $1,400.00. An unsigned John Bergmann, custom-made Hawken-style .50 caliber rifle, built in 1991. The luck was having the half-dozen letters between the maker and the first owner. Without the letters, the rifle would probably bring around $750.00

 

[drobs]

Most pawnshops are now selling on Gunbroker. I've been in multiple pawnshops where the clerk is looking up the sell price of a potential buy / pawn on gunbroker to come up with an offer.

 

[maint1517]

Use caution buying muzzleloaders at pawn shops. I bought a Hawken at one about 20 years ago. Beautiful rifle, looked like it had never been fired. When I got it home, I was about to put it in the gun cabinet. To this day I cant remember why I did it, but I put the ramrod down in the barrel. Something didn't feel right, so I marked the rod and held it outside. It was stopping 2 1/2 or 3 inches from the nipple. It was loaded!!! I had no way of knowing how much of a powder charge was in it, or if it was the correct powder type for that matter. So I wasnt about to put a cap on and fire it! I wish a thousand times over I would have just taken it to a gunsmith and had the ball pulled. But I took it back to the pawn shop and got my $75 dollars back.
Yes, you read that correctly. $75 for a beautiful .50 cal Hawken rifle.
still makes me sick to this day.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Three weeks ago I scored a Jap Charleville musket, unfired, it was a late gentleman's wall hanger, (circa 1984) and I got it with the bayonet that fit, for less than the cost of one from India...., from a place called Gold & Pawn.

I've found that this month and next month are the best times to look for muzzle loaders in pawn shops...., tax season, ya know.

LD

 

[Husker-2]

Ive purchase several nice BP out of the local pawn shop. Remington New Army 44 cal, Spiller and Burr 36 cal and a Traditions Hawkens in 50 cal
I paid around a 100 bucks each.

 

[Snidely70431]

If I were going to buy a muzzleloader just to hunt deer with a few times a year, I'd go with a CVA Wolf.
My dad got one for less than $200 and kills deer with it regularly.

It is a 1 in 28 twist though, so patched round balls are not going to be ideal. My pops uses Hornady bullets with sabots. They're more expensive than round balls, but if you're just hunting a couple times a year, one box a year will be all you would need.

The Sportsmans Warehouse lists their Wolf at $169.
https://www.sportsmanswarehouse.com...tail/Muzzleloaders/prod999901367782/cat100008

The Wolf is functionally identical to the Optima V2. The breech plug can be removed with finger tips, allowing the bore to be cleaned or, in the event of a misfire, the projectile can be pushed out.

 

[PapaG]

JB compound on a tight patch/jag will do wonders but won't remove significant pits. I've "saved" more than a few for friends who forgot to clean right after shooting (at) that deer. Just put a couple patches in the bottom of the bore first, lap the living carp out of it, then use a worm or ball screw to pull the patches out along with whatever crud you knocked loose. Then clean AND oil.

 

[piettakid]

No in-line that I know of has slow enough twist to shoot a patched round ball. Most are in the 1in 28 range. Round ball may shoot at 1 in 48, but, slower yet is better. The ball and patch strip out of the rifling if the twist is too fast. Even some sidelocks are built with a fast twist for conicals.

That's interesting. I've never shot a BP rifle but am close to buying one and i planned on shooting patched ball because BP rifle bullets are so damn expensive - like $1-$2 each.!! Would a CVA wolf keep patched balls in a 10 inch circle at 100 yards.?

 

[WestKentucky]

There's not a whole lot of front stuffers I would buy from the pawn clowns, but the next ROA I run across in decent shape for reasonable money is mine.

 

[Elkins45]

I would possibly buy a stainless gun, but I would have to look VERY carefully at a blued one.