Pistols That Constantly Jam

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I am one of those shooters that predominantly likes semi auto pistols. Pistols that jammed constantly and needed to be sold were as follows: BHP in 40 S&W, wow what a POS. Bought it new and couldn't feed a full 10 round magazine. The recoil spring felt way too heavy and I thought maybe something was wrong there but I just got rid of it. Also, all CZ's I have owned have had too many FTF's and FTE's for me to even work with. A used and new CZ-72B and a new CZ-75 compact. Beautiful looking guns but trash.

I truly believe people who never shoot are the ones who claim they never have any reliability issues. I have taught way too many people to shoot with new Glocks, SIGs and S&Ws and have seen routine feeding issues. Shooters stances and grip tend to be an problem in a lot of reliability issues. I only shoot quality factory ammo and shoot often. When I go to range I usually shoot 300-500 rounds so I put a lot through in a session. IMO, Beretta 92s and 96s, of all varieties, tend to me the most rock solid reliable.
 
post 76 mentions "I truly believe people who never shoot are the ones who claim they never have any reliability issues". I have had malfunctions in a tuned for reliability 1911, a glock 26, beretta m9 CZ75, AKM, GP100, SAA clone. All designs well known for their reliability. But they were all very rare malfunctions.
 
The only pistol I've ever owned that has never had a malfunction of any kind is my LC9s. Not sure about round count, somewhere around 2000 rounds.
 
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I find it humorous that so many people have so many problems!

We have our own range, shoot at least weekly in the winter and four/five days in warmer weather.

I would be happy to show our brass, our ammo, and anything else firearms related. I can guarantee you I shoot 90% more than most people and at this time we are very flush with ammo.

I find, and I work on a lot of firearms (for various dealers), that most problems are caused by the users and ANY repair, OTHER than an obvious broken parts, can easily be repaired unless someone is a complete imbecile! A DB9 had to go back but got a new one within two weeks.

All you have to do is look at YOUR firearms and a quick look will let you know whats going on.....if not, and you can't figure it out, buy a baseball bat. Beginners and/or the uninitiated should learn their firearm inside and out AND know how to use it!

This is No 1, No 2 (the new one) is on the other wall. Not a problem among them and all get used.

Note: I mentioned my Mosquito one page back but that has never been considered a firearm. 99% of its life has been to hold the small safe (inside the large safe) open. I never got a reply from Sig/GSG after several trips stating it was fixed......I have a door stop and a butt-load of magazines.....the mag springs are perfect in a SigArms .22 magazine.
 
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Some people must be better at buying guns than I am. I have to fix just about every gun I buy in some fashion or another, even new ones. Typically when I buy a gun it gets dry fired and tested with dummy rounds and then gets taken apart to clean up the rough parts and get the trigger in workable shape. The last new gun I bought was a ruger revolver. As delivered it was out of time, the rear sight windage screw wasn't tapped, and the transfer bar would not ride over the firing pin and locked up the pistol in double action. The only guns I've owned that have gotten no modifications are my Tikka my BPS shotgun, and my hipoint carbine. I sometimes buy guns that I know will be a project to get them to work right just for the fun of getting in the guts and sorting them out.
 
someguy2800 gets it. My post didn't imply, or didn't intend to, that all firearms are ready to go out of the box. Firearms are not plug-n-play right out of the box;

There's a dirty little secret inside each firearms box.....right there with the NRA offers, vocational school training post card, maybe a discount coupon for ammo or such and a small manual-of-arms, or as we call it "The Manual". Required reading I feel.

Any new/used/forgot about/didn't care firearm should be disassembled, cleaned, and either prepare-for-storage or properly lubricated for USE (dry bore) when time/effort allows. As a rule, I never carry a cleaned firearm without dirtying before carry......typically one mag. I feel anyone carrying a cleaned firearm are taking a big chance if they haven't checked function.

It all works for me very well, however, your mmv!
 
I have a Diamondback Db9 that did not "constantly" jam but did tend to fail to feed the 3rd round from the mag about every other magazine. A stronger mag spring has made it reliable......which is actually impressive for a micro 9mm. We had an informal pistol comp at the club Sat and I was surprised at the number of function issues experienced by some.
 
I had a Bersa thunder 22.cal that would only feed only Hi-velocity ammo and still a jam nightmare. Later cut three recoil springs off and just lightly sandpapered the slide and it now runs like a top. Including standard bulk ammo.
 
I have had two experiences both with other folks guns and both recently. First was a guy at the range with his big 9mm Glock and I watched it fail to go into battery several times and watched it fail to eject at least 50 percent of the time. Then he told me he put a trigger on it and that explained the balance of the failures - light primer strikes. The second time this guy was raving about his wunderwaffen H&K brand new paid like $1000 came with a couple mags and a fancy box and he could not fire more then a cartidge at a time. He made a point to say I shouldn’t be shooting my Colt Pocket Hammerless .380, and I promptly told him he should sell that H&K because at most me shooting will lower the collector value, but him shooting will lower his chances of survival. He then told me all sorts of specs about it and I then showed him my pre lock SW 649 and told him “no specs, just 5 shots.” If you have these pistols that don’t work don’t get them fixed - get rid of them. With firearms being such a mature technology there is no excuse for less than 100 reliability. I also firmly believe that the auto loader although sleek and modern, high capacity and polymer has many components that need to work in tandem, thus opening the system to additional failures. The wheel gun can fail but there is far less consumable parts and they are far less susceptible to user induced error. I know this wasn’t a debate on what type is most reliable but I can’t help myself.
 
I had trouble with a Diamondback .380. Sent it back to the factory and it is fine now. Many very small auto's have very short recoil and require stiff sprigs so they are hard to make work right. Some require 250 rounds to break in I am told.
 
Many new guns require a break in. I read about so many failures of some very nice made guns. Here is what I do.
I will load the mags to full capacity and let the Spring "Set" for a few days. And then work the mags, by unloading and reloading. I will also lock the receiver back and let the recoil spring set. Then while watching Tv, will rack the slide about 200 times. No big deal.
Does it work? Has for me. Many quality mags have very strong springs. Too strong when new and not set, which IMO causes too much pressure on sending a new round up. New quality recoil springs the same way. That is why some choke on light loads. JMO
 
^^+10. Way too many folks look at magazines as just a ammo holder. Mags need maintenence/cleaning AND load those mags, set those springs, and start exercising the firearm as Jeb Stuart describes.

Way too many firearms go from the box to the range.
 
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