Post your Homemade Tools for Guns
- Thread starter 45R
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Clark
Member
Mount modifed with sales page
http://www.gunsnstuff.net/index.asp...-bdaa-41ae-a9de-3eb5284be776&uniqueid=4087780
picture of the mount
http://www.gunsnstuff.net/lib/gunsnstuff/5012/b_40_08.jpg
http://www.gunsnstuff.net/index.asp...-bdaa-41ae-a9de-3eb5284be776&uniqueid=4087780
picture of the mount
http://www.gunsnstuff.net/lib/gunsnstuff/5012/b_40_08.jpg
wolf_from_wv
Member
mfree
Member
"I need to figure out some sort of an escapement to unload one cartridge at a time,"
Sounds like all you need is to punch out a metal tab a little ways back, round comes out under pressure, stops on the tab, you pick it out, next one comes out...
Sounds like all you need is to punch out a metal tab a little ways back, round comes out under pressure, stops on the tab, you pick it out, next one comes out...
Clark
Member
Clark
Member
Maybe not a gunsmithing tool...
I make a lot of 7.62x45 Czech brass for all those surplus VZ-52 rifles that showed up years ago. But before I got one of those Chinese benchtop mini-lathes, I used this trim bushing to fix the parent brass into position. The brass is shoved into the aluminum bushing until it hits the internal shoulder. The bolt is tightened in the threaded bushing until it locks the brass in place against that internal shoulder, leaving the right amount of neck and shoulder exposed. I chuck it into a vise, then either hacksaw or Dremel-tool off the excess. Voila', I run it into the sizing dies, kiss it with the electric case trimmer, then anneal and ship.
I make a lot of 7.62x45 Czech brass for all those surplus VZ-52 rifles that showed up years ago. But before I got one of those Chinese benchtop mini-lathes, I used this trim bushing to fix the parent brass into position. The brass is shoved into the aluminum bushing until it hits the internal shoulder. The bolt is tightened in the threaded bushing until it locks the brass in place against that internal shoulder, leaving the right amount of neck and shoulder exposed. I chuck it into a vise, then either hacksaw or Dremel-tool off the excess. Voila', I run it into the sizing dies, kiss it with the electric case trimmer, then anneal and ship.
Clark
Member
Clark
Member
I made a mandrel for a Turk today from a piece of 3/4" RC30 4140 steel.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1875702&PMT4NO=3241093
I drilled and tapped a 10-32 hole in the mandrel for a set screw to keep the reciever from spinning on the mandrel.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1875702&PMT4NO=3241093
I drilled and tapped a 10-32 hole in the mandrel for a set screw to keep the reciever from spinning on the mandrel.
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Clark
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Lonestar.45
Member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2004
- Messages
- 1,077
Does this count??? 
P95Carry
Moderator Emeritus
First some real simple oddments - left to right - a) simply modified old drill, for large nipple removal on Musketoon.
b) Next a turned piece of heat treated aluminum sized to exact fit in N frame 357 cylinder - its fwd section has a slight concavity turned into it so it has a ''sharp'' edge. Used for easing out lead build up when needed.
c) Very simple hammer with brass working head.
d) Simple jig made up for BHP rear sight drifting - ''business'' ends brass capped.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This bunch of stuff - just some examples of lathe accessories I have made over time - only partly for gun applications.
a) Rear left - #2 Morse taper on this center block. Takes up to about 1 1/4" - and suits cross drilling, in fact any center oriented op's - fits in tailstock for most use tho can go in headstock spindle for slow revolutions. Has an end stop.
b) Rear right - Another center block - this for bench use in drill press. I made a number of guide bushings which are hardened and mostly for small sizes. It has an end stop.
c) Front - Just a knurling jig - fits in tool post.
b) Next a turned piece of heat treated aluminum sized to exact fit in N frame 357 cylinder - its fwd section has a slight concavity turned into it so it has a ''sharp'' edge. Used for easing out lead build up when needed.
c) Very simple hammer with brass working head.
d) Simple jig made up for BHP rear sight drifting - ''business'' ends brass capped.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This bunch of stuff - just some examples of lathe accessories I have made over time - only partly for gun applications.
a) Rear left - #2 Morse taper on this center block. Takes up to about 1 1/4" - and suits cross drilling, in fact any center oriented op's - fits in tailstock for most use tho can go in headstock spindle for slow revolutions. Has an end stop.
b) Rear right - Another center block - this for bench use in drill press. I made a number of guide bushings which are hardened and mostly for small sizes. It has an end stop.
c) Front - Just a knurling jig - fits in tool post.
Clark
Member
P95Carry,
Some of your tools are like things in Home Shop machinist magazine:
Not only is the workmanship fancy, so is the photography.
Some of your tools are like things in Home Shop machinist magazine:
Not only is the workmanship fancy, so is the photography.
P95Carry
Moderator Emeritus
Clark - I'll admit to more than once seeing an item in a magazine and thinking it was worth making - or at least basing something on. IIRC the drill press center block was one of those but the big tail stock one was my own original - made I admit in part by ''seeing what was in the scrap bin''
I have a degree of perfectionism - which is never satisfied and so sometimes I make more pretty than needed - OTOH many items are strictly functional and not very photogenic! Plenty of those!
I have enjoyed seeing many of your various items pictured for which thanks, here and at other times. It is sometimes an interesting challenge to make something specific which succeeds and makes a job either feasable or just way easier.
I think we could have fun together in the machine shop!
I have a degree of perfectionism - which is never satisfied and so sometimes I make more pretty than needed - OTOH many items are strictly functional and not very photogenic! Plenty of those!
I have enjoyed seeing many of your various items pictured for which thanks, here and at other times. It is sometimes an interesting challenge to make something specific which succeeds and makes a job either feasable or just way easier.
I think we could have fun together in the machine shop!
Clark
Member
I made a spider for this old 1938 Craftsman 101.07402 lathe 12x36.
The threads are 1.25 - 20 internal.
The old lathe with change gears made it's own spider.
I needed a .25" diameter round disc of copper to protect the spindle's 1.25x20 threads from the 5/16-24 set screw.
I cut the base off a .257 Roberts bullet.
The hole through the spindle is a little less than .8" [#2MT] and the hole I made in the in the spider is a little more than .8".
The threads are 1.25 - 20 internal.
The old lathe with change gears made it's own spider.
I needed a .25" diameter round disc of copper to protect the spindle's 1.25x20 threads from the 5/16-24 set screw.
I cut the base off a .257 Roberts bullet.
The hole through the spindle is a little less than .8" [#2MT] and the hole I made in the in the spider is a little more than .8".
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Clark
Member
Clark
Member
I made another action wrench [the one on the top].
There are some improvements over the one I made in 2000 [the one on the bottom].
I realize now that I want the flat underside of a Mauser receiver that lines up with the large ring on top to be between the two bolts in the wrench.
DUH!
So I cut into the action wrench so that the flat space on the bottom of the receiver just behind the recoil lug could get into the wrench far enough to be between the bolts.
There are some improvements over the one I made in 2000 [the one on the bottom].
I realize now that I want the flat underside of a Mauser receiver that lines up with the large ring on top to be between the two bolts in the wrench.
DUH!
So I cut into the action wrench so that the flat space on the bottom of the receiver just behind the recoil lug could get into the wrench far enough to be between the bolts.
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Clark
Member
jmorris
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- Joined
- Sep 30, 2005
- Messages
- 24,289
The first one is a tool I built for filling moon clips the feed tube is also cut to demoon (in action) http://www.commencefiring.com/files/Videos/mooner.mpg). The second is a tool I use to remove the main spring of a 1911 without sending it in into orbit. Third is another 1911 tool, this one is for extractor tension with the stop it’s great for setting up spares. For quickly swapping out scopes and maintaining a decent zero I rigged up the double split V block and laser set up shown in the 4th photo. Just line the laser up with the already zeroed scope, swap them and run the new scope to the dot. The last one was built because I always hated looking for the right torques bit to remove the grip panels and the Allen for a 2 piece guide rod (at an angle for increased torque) that I don’t use much anymore, now that I use one piece rods.
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Clark
Member
jmorris,
OK, I watched the video 10 times, and I can't figure out where those cartridges are popping up from.
OK, I watched the video 10 times, and I can't figure out where those cartridges are popping up from.
Dave Markowitz
Member
I made from a piece of 1/2" copper pipe this demooner for .45 full moon clips used in my S&W Model 625.
ieszu
Member
I have some blueprints for equipment, from barrel wrenches and action vices, to various other equipment... If anyone is interested, I will scan and post... Just let me know.
jpcampbell
Member
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2006
- Messages
- 132
Gentlemen
I have sent several of you e-mails concerning your tools and fixtures being used in the competency booklets for the Gunsmith Apprenticeship Program but so many of the tools here would be useful and I don't like writing E-mails I thought I would just kill all the birds with one stone, and ask the same of all of you.
We would like to put together a collection of tools and fixtures the apprentices could make as part of their competency in mill, and lathe work, we would give you credit for any of your info we use in the booklet. we would appreciate any tips in using the tools as well
Thanks JP Campbell
I have sent several of you e-mails concerning your tools and fixtures being used in the competency booklets for the Gunsmith Apprenticeship Program but so many of the tools here would be useful and I don't like writing E-mails I thought I would just kill all the birds with one stone, and ask the same of all of you.
We would like to put together a collection of tools and fixtures the apprentices could make as part of their competency in mill, and lathe work, we would give you credit for any of your info we use in the booklet. we would appreciate any tips in using the tools as well
Thanks JP Campbell
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