My friend, my uncle, and an old mentor keep telling me to get a 22-250 and I want one but I dont know which one is the best for chucking lead at a small possibly moving target. I would also like one that is no more than four hundred dollars. P.S. Anyone know of any big prarie dog towns in the cheyenne laramie areas?
Prarie dog plinking.
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ColtPythonElite
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I've got a Ruger MK II Target in .22-250 that shoots nice tiny groups with my tailored handloads....However, I doubt if 400 bucks will even buy a used one.
BADUNAME37
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It depends on whether you want "out-of-the-box accuracy" or whether you don't mind paying less and accurizing it yourself.
Since I prefer the latter, I have a Savage bolt action Model 110 in 22-250 which has a trigger job, glass-bedded receiver and free-floating barrel. With my handloads (50g TNT Speer HP's) and 4064 powder, I chronagraph those moving along at 3,920 FPS on average. I can shoot groups the size of a dime at 200 yards with a Leupold Vari-X-III 3.5x10x40mm.
Several years ago, I shot a crow at 420 yards. Last summer, I shot a woodchuck at 500 yards. Most shots, though, are in the 100 yard range where I can just take off their head and not ruin the meat.
I have two different size Harris Bipods I use depending on whether I am lying in a field or sitting in my front window.
Since I prefer the latter, I have a Savage bolt action Model 110 in 22-250 which has a trigger job, glass-bedded receiver and free-floating barrel. With my handloads (50g TNT Speer HP's) and 4064 powder, I chronagraph those moving along at 3,920 FPS on average. I can shoot groups the size of a dime at 200 yards with a Leupold Vari-X-III 3.5x10x40mm.
Several years ago, I shot a crow at 420 yards. Last summer, I shot a woodchuck at 500 yards. Most shots, though, are in the 100 yard range where I can just take off their head and not ruin the meat.
I have two different size Harris Bipods I use depending on whether I am lying in a field or sitting in my front window.
BADUNAME37
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The trigger job you would leave to a professional gunsmith, unless there is a single-component system that is a simple 'remove-several-parts' and "drop-it-in-and-secure-it-and-done," which I kinda doubt. I got a drop-in trigger for my AR-15 from Timney (I got the AR-10 trigger as the hammer is heavier), that trigger was pretty much, remove existing, drop in and secure several allen screws (with locktite).
As for glass bedding the receiver and then free-floating the barrel it is not difficult. It might help if you read some stuff or watch some videos of how it is done. As in most things, there are little tricks that are nice to know about and anyone who has done it once or twice would be able to guide you. If you buy the kit of fiberglass and the releasing agent, I think the instructions are thorough enough that anyone who can read and comprehend what it is they are reading would have no problem!
As for glass bedding the receiver and then free-floating the barrel it is not difficult. It might help if you read some stuff or watch some videos of how it is done. As in most things, there are little tricks that are nice to know about and anyone who has done it once or twice would be able to guide you. If you buy the kit of fiberglass and the releasing agent, I think the instructions are thorough enough that anyone who can read and comprehend what it is they are reading would have no problem!
Cob
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I recenly glassbedded my rifle for the first time, used a product called Pro-Bed 2000, from midway USA. It sold for 18.99, and i used an online coupon, got it a little cheaper than that. It's easy to do, as long as you follow instructins, and use plenty of release agent. I was most afraid that i had epoxied my action to the stock permanently, when i did the glassbedding, but everything worked fine.
BADUNAME37
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Yes, the release agent is the key, and also no areas that would naturally begin to wrap up around a curve as you don't want to have it on so many places that you cannot remove the stock when you are done. Thinking of a circle O - you would only want it all on the bottom half, none up past the mid-line horizontilly, or you will not get the barrel out of the stock without breaking any that is above the center off or breaking the stock.
When it comes time to free-float the barrel, when you know the barrel is set properly, carefully scribe along the barrel on both sides where it sets into the wood. I would run a piece of masking tape tight and even along the barrel just in line with the top of the wood on the left and right sides of the barrel. Then, using a compass, carefully scribe a line about 3/32" (just over about 1/16") - as the line will be your guide for how much wood will be removed to make the barrel free-floating. Remove the masking tape when you are done scribing, so you can see how the barrel is fitting into the newly-sanded stock.
As for whether to free-float before or after the bedding, I am sure there are ways to do it either way. You may want to do a bit of free-floating before the bedding, then continue to finish the free-floating job after the bedding is all in place and you know the barrel is tight to the bedding! Using a short piece of dowel or broomstick handle, etc. (approximate same diameter as that of the barrel), and course sandpaper (like 80 grit to start out), tightly wrap the sandpaper in a U - fashion tightly against the bottom of the O of the stick and with the barrel removed, begin sanding down and out to the lines you have scribed. If you are removing too much wood, causing the finish to begin chipping, go to a finer paper (the higher the number, the finer), like 100 or even 120. The problem with the fine paper is it takes a while to remove a lot of wood at once whereas the courser grit will make short time of it.
Every so often, blow everything off and wipe any grit off and try the barrel, being careful if there is any grit that you don't scratch the barrel! You can try different thicknesses of paper, or several dollar bills to make sure you are removing an equal amount from the bottom as you are from the sides, out to the marks you scribed. Also, looking from the muzzle end at the marriage of the barrel and stock, you should see an equidistant space all around the sides and bottom where the barrel lies in the stock!
If you are meticulous about keeping the work area clean and are careful not to lay the barrel or the stock onto anything that might scratch it, you should do just fine! When in doubt about something, STOP and do not continue until you are sure as to what it is you need to do! Better to wait and do it right than plow right through, ruining the job, your stock and/or barrel!
When completely done sanding for free-floating the barrel, I seal any bare wood that is hidden under the barrel with several coats of clear polyurethane finish so if you are ever in the rain or even a humid climate, the wood will stay dry!
You will probably want a Dremel so you can use the round ball cutter to cut grooves in the area where the receiver lies, so the resin fills the whole area, and also goes down into the wooden stock some. Be REALLY CAREFUL with the Dremel! One slip and you can really do damage to the stock in a hurry!
In some small places, you might need to build like a small dam to prevent resin from going places you don't want it to go, or stuff the area with something and then tape over it. I am thinking of the magazine well. The magazine well box (sides, as one metal piece), you will probably have out along with any floorplate and trigger guard while you are bedding.
You are going to want a way to tighten down the barrel to the newly-poured and applied bedding. If you want a really good job, look up Pillar Bedding:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...m=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&biw=1263&bih=610
With that, where the fasteners are that secure the barrel to the stock, there are metal tubes that you use that prevent being able to overtighten barrel screws thus crushing the wooden stock (on the underside).
Instead of pillar bedding, the way I got by that was I used some bedding material on the bottom of the stock where the trigger guard is - at each fastener location which secure the barrel to the stock (on some guns, also where the magazine bottom trap door is located).
When it comes time to free-float the barrel, when you know the barrel is set properly, carefully scribe along the barrel on both sides where it sets into the wood. I would run a piece of masking tape tight and even along the barrel just in line with the top of the wood on the left and right sides of the barrel. Then, using a compass, carefully scribe a line about 3/32" (just over about 1/16") - as the line will be your guide for how much wood will be removed to make the barrel free-floating. Remove the masking tape when you are done scribing, so you can see how the barrel is fitting into the newly-sanded stock.
As for whether to free-float before or after the bedding, I am sure there are ways to do it either way. You may want to do a bit of free-floating before the bedding, then continue to finish the free-floating job after the bedding is all in place and you know the barrel is tight to the bedding! Using a short piece of dowel or broomstick handle, etc. (approximate same diameter as that of the barrel), and course sandpaper (like 80 grit to start out), tightly wrap the sandpaper in a U - fashion tightly against the bottom of the O of the stick and with the barrel removed, begin sanding down and out to the lines you have scribed. If you are removing too much wood, causing the finish to begin chipping, go to a finer paper (the higher the number, the finer), like 100 or even 120. The problem with the fine paper is it takes a while to remove a lot of wood at once whereas the courser grit will make short time of it.
Every so often, blow everything off and wipe any grit off and try the barrel, being careful if there is any grit that you don't scratch the barrel! You can try different thicknesses of paper, or several dollar bills to make sure you are removing an equal amount from the bottom as you are from the sides, out to the marks you scribed. Also, looking from the muzzle end at the marriage of the barrel and stock, you should see an equidistant space all around the sides and bottom where the barrel lies in the stock!
If you are meticulous about keeping the work area clean and are careful not to lay the barrel or the stock onto anything that might scratch it, you should do just fine! When in doubt about something, STOP and do not continue until you are sure as to what it is you need to do! Better to wait and do it right than plow right through, ruining the job, your stock and/or barrel!
When completely done sanding for free-floating the barrel, I seal any bare wood that is hidden under the barrel with several coats of clear polyurethane finish so if you are ever in the rain or even a humid climate, the wood will stay dry!
You will probably want a Dremel so you can use the round ball cutter to cut grooves in the area where the receiver lies, so the resin fills the whole area, and also goes down into the wooden stock some. Be REALLY CAREFUL with the Dremel! One slip and you can really do damage to the stock in a hurry!
In some small places, you might need to build like a small dam to prevent resin from going places you don't want it to go, or stuff the area with something and then tape over it. I am thinking of the magazine well. The magazine well box (sides, as one metal piece), you will probably have out along with any floorplate and trigger guard while you are bedding.
You are going to want a way to tighten down the barrel to the newly-poured and applied bedding. If you want a really good job, look up Pillar Bedding:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...m=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&biw=1263&bih=610
With that, where the fasteners are that secure the barrel to the stock, there are metal tubes that you use that prevent being able to overtighten barrel screws thus crushing the wooden stock (on the underside).
Instead of pillar bedding, the way I got by that was I used some bedding material on the bottom of the stock where the trigger guard is - at each fastener location which secure the barrel to the stock (on some guns, also where the magazine bottom trap door is located).
Last edited:
BADUNAME37
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I would say yes, if the stock is about as strong as wood at the forend. If it seems to bend easier than wood, then you may have a problem trying to free-float the barrel, as any pressure may move the composite over or up just enough to contact the barrel which is what you are trying to avoid in free-floating it in the first place.
I have never owned a composite full-length stock, so I could not tell you if that is as strong as wood for the forward portion (from the glass-bedded receiver out to the front end of the stock).
If it is as strong as wood, or stronger, you should have no problems doing the composite the same way as you would a wood stock.
Perhaps someone with more knowledge about composite vs. wood could chime in here.
I have never owned a composite full-length stock, so I could not tell you if that is as strong as wood for the forward portion (from the glass-bedded receiver out to the front end of the stock).
If it is as strong as wood, or stronger, you should have no problems doing the composite the same way as you would a wood stock.
Perhaps someone with more knowledge about composite vs. wood could chime in here.
BrainOnSigs
Member
Ever consider .204 Ruger as an option?
All the Twenties burn way less powder than a 22-250 (a full third in most loads), and the smaller Twenties use less powder than a .223 Rem. This attribute actually has two advantages. First, it makes shooting 20-Caliber cartridges more economical, but mostly it means less barrel heat. A typical varmint hunter may shoot several hundred rounds in one day, so barrel heat is an important issue. Less heat....longer barrel life.
An excellent article by my friend Ken Lunde: http://www.6mmbr.com/gunweek047.html
He convinced me to make the switch to .204 Ruger and a thousand+ priairie dogs later....I'm not going back.
Another excellent read on .20 cal: http://www.6mmbr.com/20Caliber.html
All the Twenties burn way less powder than a 22-250 (a full third in most loads), and the smaller Twenties use less powder than a .223 Rem. This attribute actually has two advantages. First, it makes shooting 20-Caliber cartridges more economical, but mostly it means less barrel heat. A typical varmint hunter may shoot several hundred rounds in one day, so barrel heat is an important issue. Less heat....longer barrel life.
An excellent article by my friend Ken Lunde: http://www.6mmbr.com/gunweek047.html
He convinced me to make the switch to .204 Ruger and a thousand+ priairie dogs later....I'm not going back.
Another excellent read on .20 cal: http://www.6mmbr.com/20Caliber.html
MachIVshooter
Member
Not sure what they run today, but 8 or 9 years ago, I picked up a new Howa M1500 Varminter in .223 for $369 at wally world, and it proved to be an absolute tack driver. When I bought my .220 Swift, I sold it to a friend for $425 with a Bushnell 6-18x 50mm scope, bi-pod, and a couple hundred rounds.
You should be able to find something used in your price range.
You should be able to find something used in your price range.
IdahoLT1
Member
I use my Savage 10FP .308 loaded with 110gr Vmax's. A bit overkill but it gets it done. If I did it again, Id go .223. It will handle 90% of your varminting needs and do it at a much cheaper cost than the .22-250.
.204 more economical than the .223 Remingon? Debatable. If you buy factory ammo, the .223 wins hands down. I havent looked at the reloading specs so it might be cheaper to fuel a .204 but the cost of brass is going to be noticeably higher than the .223 so that migh be a wash.
As far as barrel life, you have a point but youre going to burn through $6500+ worth of ammo befoer the barrel goes bad in a .223 so the cost ($200-$300) of a new barrel is kind of moot.
BrainOnSigs said:
.204 more economical than the .223 Remingon? Debatable. If you buy factory ammo, the .223 wins hands down. I havent looked at the reloading specs so it might be cheaper to fuel a .204 but the cost of brass is going to be noticeably higher than the .223 so that migh be a wash.
As far as barrel life, you have a point but youre going to burn through $6500+ worth of ammo befoer the barrel goes bad in a .223 so the cost ($200-$300) of a new barrel is kind of moot.
I have spent a lot of time shooting P dogs. I orginally used the 22-250 and was very pleased with the results. I starting using a 223 after my 22-250 barrel got hot. It was much cheaper to shoot, much less muzzle blast and did a good job out to 400 yards. The only advantage I saw between the two was the extended range the 22-250 gave. If I were going to have only one rifle for this purpose, it would be the 223.
MachIVshooter
Member
I shoot a Ruger M77 Varmint in .220 Swift and Remington 700 LVSF in .17 Rem. It's rare that there are enough shots fired in such quick succession to worry about barrel heat in either. Even on busy dog towns, more than 200 rounds in a day is unusual. It would mean you're missing a lot. I score about 90% on shots under 200 yards, and I'd say the hit ratio drops by ~20% for every 100 yards past that. I.e., I miss about half the time at 400 yards, and may take 4 or 5 shots at a 600-700 yard target before nailing it. That's about right for the .76 MOA average of the rifle, given that a praire rat is 2-3" wide. On a windy day, at longer ranges, walking the shots in is often necessary, but at 500+ yards, the rats are seldom bothered enough to run until the bullet sprays dirt in their face.
788Ham
Member
I just put in a Timney trigger on my 788 Remington .223, about a month ago, it was $135.00 total from Brownells. It was fairly easy for a wood butcher to accomplish. LOL The action pulled out, took the other trigger off, replaced the new one, I did have to shave a tiny bit off the inside of the stock on the left side, a small pocket knife and 3 minutes later it was in. This trigger is adjustable from 1 1/2 lbs - 3 1/2 lbs, mine gauged out at 32 oz's, I left it right there, beautiful, smooth trigger, well worth the money.
Steve 48
Member
A 22-250 has more range than a 223. I use both, but the 22-250 comes out when shooting over 300 yards.
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