Problem with Redding Competition Seating Die

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thump_rrr

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I recently purchased a set of Redding .308 competition dies.
The problem I'm having is that it will not consistently seat to the same length(base to ogive)
I'm using 175gr Sierra Matchkings which are sorted by base to ogive length.
I'm also using Lapua brass which is properly annealed.

I followed the instructions provided with the dies including cleaning the dies and ensuring that the seating stem is properly installed.
I have tried this die in all 3 of my presses which include 1 Lee and 2 Hornady.
I have less than 0.001" difference in seating depth when using my Lee dies in the same presses.
 
I use Forster Micro seating dies in .308,.243 and.223 and have not experienced any inconsistencies. I load to .010-.030 off lands depending on which rifle. I sort by headstamp and trim my brass to the same length before loading and have never had any problems with the seating length or anything else. I have been using them for about 3 years.
 
You don't say what amount of variance you're getting in seating depth.
Are you using compressed loads? This can split/crack the seating stem making the die useless and Redding warns against it.
 
You don't say what amount of variance you're getting in seating depth.
Are you using compressed loads? This can split/crack the seating stem making the die useless and Redding warns against it.
There is about 0.004" from shortest to longest.
The load is not compressed.
41.7gr of IMR4064.
All brass was trimmed on a Sinclair/L.E. Wilson ultimate stainless trimmer at 2.005"
It was chamfered and deburred before annealing.

I have loaded thousands of rounds with sub 0.5MOA accuracy with my Lee dies and I was hoping for even better results with these dies.
I was looking for more control in neck sizing which so far appears to be working, good concentricity which also looks good so far. It's just length that is driving me nuts right now.
 
The problem I'm having is that it will not consistently seat to the same length(base to ogive)
I'm using 175gr Sierra Matchkings which are sorted by base to ogive length.

The problem is, the point at which the seater stem contacts the ogive is different from the point at which the comparator you use is contacting the ogive. The seater stem contacts the ogive much closer to the meplat than whatever comparator you are using does.

Don
 
I wouldn't stress over 4 thousandths...unless you're loading to the lands.
The competition seater is primarily used to reduce runout for a more concentric round. You can visually check runout or use a concentricity gage for more precision. At 1/2MOA it's quite possible that you've reached the accuracy limits of the rifle which no reload will improve.
 
If your loading press is worn, the ram may not stop in exactly the same spot each time you raise it. Obviously, this will cause variations in bullet seating depth. Although our instructions warn against it, raise the shellholder and adjust the outer, threaded die body to make light contact with the shellholder. (Make sure you keep the contact light, so you don't damage the die.) This creates a "dead length" seating chamber that is unaffected by where the shellholder stops. The only disadvantage to using the die adjusted this way, is that it may be awkward to read the micrometer if it ends up on the back side of the die.
Read more here > http://www.redding-reloading.com/tech-line-a-tips-faqs
 
I have old dies, Weatherby, Herter Lyman etc. I like the alignment of the neck with the bullet, Hornady uses a similar feature.

I also have Gold Medal and Competition dies with the micro adjust seater, Then there is the Redding 6.5x55, I do not assume the seater plug contacts the bullet in the same place every time on every bullet,
When setting up my seating die I use a transfer to move the chamber dimensions to the seating die. I use all the bullet hold I can get.

F. Guffey
 
Spin the seater plug in a drill, polish/round off the sharp edge, polish the innards and try it again.
 
I agree with Wakalong there may be some minor machining marks which can be polished. Also you did not mention which caliper you were using if you're tollerance is -.0004 you will need a real good caliper.

I have had good luck with redding and the same process.

Shoot straight

Bob
 
I agree with Wakalong there may be some minor machining marks which can be polished. Also you did not mention which caliper you were using if you're tollerance is -.0004 you will need a real good caliper.

I have had good luck with redding and the same process.

Shoot straight

Bob
It's .004" not .0004".
That would be like splitting kernels of Varget.
 
Redding products have a lifetime warranty against defects materials and workmanship. Have you given them a shot at fixing the problem? If so, what did they say?
 
Redding products have a lifetime warranty against defects materials and workmanship. Have you given them a shot at fixing the problem? If so, what did they say?
I figured that they may still be closed for the Easter long weekend.
I'll give them a try tomorrow.
 
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