problems field stripping a ruger MKIII

[fausto]

Today I was trying, for the first time, to take a part my Ruger MKIII.
To make sure I didn't do anything stupid I had detailed my laptop with detailed instructions on right in front of me. I've pulled back the bolt and pulled the trigger to lower down the hammer, then I was able to swing out ther main spring housing no problems, when I tried to pull the MS housing down to clear the bolt stop pin from the receiver, the bolt stop pin only travelled for a tiny bit and everything stopped. I tried pushing down the bolt from above (gently) with a pin punch and pulling the MS down hard with no results. I didn't insist, put the MS housing back in and cycled the gun to check that everything was fine.
My question is: is it normal to find such resistance when pulling down the housing? should I have insisted and use a vise? Is there something there that I missed?
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Fausto

 

[tuj]

use a punch and mallet to drive the msh pin downwards. the new guns can be really tight.

 

[fausto]

Thanks!

 

[GZOh]

Have had a couple Mark IIIs (most recent is 22/45)... and the disassembly/reassembly can be a mini-pain until you get used to it, then no problem! And YES, removing the main-spring housing/bolt-stop pin can be a real challange. The pin IS usually tight for the first couple hundred rounds, then loosens-up.
First, if its real tight, you might want to start by getting a small towel/rag to grasp the latch/housing when pulling down, so you don't 'kill' your hands... Second, you might want to apply some grease (not lube) sparingly to both the pin and the pin hole (w/ Q-tip), that can help.
Trust me, you're NOT the first to struggle with this. Couple good Mark-III field-strip videos on youtube you might want to watch.
Once you get past all this, the Mark-III is really a great little .22!

 

[bikemutt]

Speed strip is your Ruger 22/45 friend: http://www.majesticarms.com/id10.html

 

[GLOOB]

The pin IS usually tight for the first couple hundred rounds, then loosens-up.

I have a tight one. Shooting a couple thousand rounds didn't loosen it! I don't see what round count has to do with it, at all!

I figured it would eventually loosen up, the more times I took it apart. But I gave up and sanded the pin a little. It's still too tight, but I can now pry the thing out by taking a rod/screwdriver and using it to pull down on the hinged backstrap. Tight it good. It can be loosened.

I have another that comes apart with no problem. Both purchased new.

 

[340PD]

http://www.ruger.com/resources/videos.html

 

[MrBorland]

I take it you haven't tried getting the receiver/barrel and grip frame apart yet?

 

[Bullseye57]

Take a look at this thread I posted on this same subject. http://rugerforum.net/ruger-rimfires/107952-can-t-disassemble-mkii.html#post1461131

Your bolt stop pivot pin may have walked too. Use the feeler gauge trick before you start forcing that bolt stop out or you could damage the frame.

R,
Bullseye

 

[fausto]

Tks everybody and special tks to Bullseye 57. Ive read the thread you linked to, very good advice! I' ll definitely check if the pin has drifted before applying force.

 

[StingRayRay]

First post from a new guy. I had this problem until last night. After a little filing and sanding I got the problem fixed. I'll try to explain the best I can. The problem is the milling on the main pin. There is a sharp edge that hangs up on the guide rod for the return spring on the bolt. I used a file to slightly round out the contact point on both pieces. This was followed up with some 2000 grit sandpaper to polish it smooth. I was very careful to not take too much off the top of the pin. On the end of the guide rod the U shaped spring retainer is just crimped on and it had some rough spots on it. I just filed it round and sanded it smooth. The pin goes in and out quite easily now. You can see the problem areas in the pics where the file is pointing. I was really happy with the fix until I touched up the blue on the pin and then the thing felt like it was sticking again. Took the sandpaper over the contact point again and it slides in and out nice and easy. So I will keep a little oil on it and never complain about cleaning this one again. Sorry for the upside down pic. Not sure what happened there.

 

[Sav .250]

Look on U-Tube. May be a tutorial on that.

 

[Confederate]

I tried pushing down the bolt from above (gently) with a pin punch and pulling the MS down hard with no results. I didn't insist, put the MS housing back in and cycled the gun to check that everything was fine.
My question is: is it normal to find such resistance when pulling down the housing? should I have insisted and use a vise? Is there something there that I missed?

The word "problem" seems to go with Ruger Mark II/III autos, but the word "gently" does not. My dad used to say, "If it doesn't work, don't force it." That, however, does not apply to the Mark II/III disassembly or assembly. If you grab the dang bolt stop pin and give it a sharp, quick and forceful tug, it usually will come out. I've had more problems getting them back in and the solution is almost always force.

According to Jeff Cooper, more wear and tear is put on .22s by unnecessary assembly and disassembly, as well as cleaning. He maintained that the burned powder in a .22 actually preserves and protects the gun. He advised a full cleaning once or twice a year, but all other cleanings should involve getting rid of debris by going down the barrel once or twice and using solvent and a toothbrush to remove particles that could interfere with the operation of the gun. Having said that, many cannot bring themselves to have what they perceive as a "dirty" gun lying around, and, alas, I'm one of them.

 

[bubbinator]

Ruger field strip

I got better acquainted with my agency gun plumber real quick. He is close, we are friends, he does mine. God Bless you guys who did it .

 

[fausto]

I checked the pin drift with the feeler gauge as bullseye57 advised and it is even / centered. I gave the gun a good cleaning ( or i should say the best i could manage without taking it apart) and will worry about it after few more hundreds rounds.
I may be buying the speed strip in the future, sounds like a neat idea.

 

[Kp321]

+1 on not cleaning too often. Brush the inside of the receiver out and bore snake the bore occasionally. Don't do anything else till it starts giving trouble and don't shoot Golden Bullets in it.

 

[Drail]

The factory likes to fit them as tight as possible because it's only going to loosen up over time. The last MK III I had on a bench (new gun) was the tightest MK pistol I have ever seen. I told the owner to just bring it over to my shop for a while until it loosens up. But they can be very tight out of the box. A big wood mallet helps.

 

[ohbythebay]

Wow,...

I am XSOO glad I didn't have that issue. For me, I just used a special little hammer (its the type with 4 heads interchangeable, brass, plastic, rubber and copper)

Nice tap, pull...out...lubed well after that and no issue. The rest was easy.

In fact, it was hard to tap the pins on my CZ 74 SP-01 tactical than the Ruger. I HATE using a punch anywhere near that thing but the only way to get the extractor off and the firing pin.

Be patient and diligent with the Ruger...it works.

 

[Bullseye57]

I checked the pin drift with the feeler gauge as bullseye57 advised and it is even / centered. I gave the gun a good cleaning ( or i should say the best i could manage without taking it apart) and will worry about it after few more hundreds rounds.
I may be buying the speed strip in the future, sounds like a neat idea.

Now that you have confirmed there is no obstruction from the pivot pin, you can drift out the bolt stop with more force without causing any frame damage. In some cases the recoil spring resists the removal of the mainspring housing as the bolt stop is designed with a cupped surfaces that prevents it from falling out of the receiver. The back side of the recoil spring has a round protrusion that fits into that cut-out area making some mainsprings a little stiffer to remove than others - especially when the pistol is new. I've had some that required me to place the receiver in a well padded vise and use a brass drift punch, with a mallet, to drive it out of the receiver. Once out, I've had to remove a little material from the protrusion on the recoil spring guide assembly to ease disassembly on a few pistols.

Just to be clear, rounded the protrusion I'm talking about is seen in this photo, on the back, "Y" end, of the spring guide assembly.



This rounded surface is what's preventing you from easily removing your mainspring housing's bolt stop from the receiver.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye

 

[ohbythebay]

Bullseye...

Not criticizing (just talking here..lol)

But isn't that removal of material a bit risky ? Its rounded so it should not "hang up" even if firmly rooted. Like I said, have no trouble with mine but are you saying ...just a TINY bit of material removal (and how) ?

I ask because it might be advisable to clarify since someone might actually file it off...OUCH...

Thanks for listening...

 

[Bullseye57]

Good point, not taking it as criticism at all, this post is for a little further clarification.

In the past I didn't have to remove anything material-wise, but since the Mark III's models came out in 2004 these protrusions on the rear of the recoil spring assembly seem to have gotten a little larger. On a few pistols, it took quite a bit of persuasion to remove the bolt stop. If I'm having difficulty in the shop, imagine what the typical owner is having with far less tools available. The larger knob, and slightly tighter tolerances in the receiver and rear mounting lug, made removing a little of the knob material necessary. Remember I said, "Little." It doesn't take much to make a difference. A Jewler's file, or honing stone is all it takes to do the job in these cases. Start small, and work up. The bolt stop needs to stay stiff to remove, but not so stiff that one has to drive it out with a punch and a hammer every time the pistol needs to be field stripped. This pistol may not need fitting of the recoil spring assembly and could be just a little stiff due to its newness. If that is the case then nothing needs to be removed.

R,
Bullseye

 

[StingRayRay]

+1 on Bullseyes post. That is exactly what fixes the "hard to pull out the pin" issue. You don't have to remove much material at all. What is required is the rounding out and polishing that makes the pin slide out easier. If you round out and polish the top of the mainspring pin you will end up with a pistol that is very easy to service. You should never need a hammer or a punch to do this procedure. I have done this to three different models and the all ended up being easy to pull out.
1978 MarkI
2012 MarkIII
2013 22/45 Lite