A .45 ACP seater should have a taper crimp built in. It should not roll crimp, so I am confused there.
Maybe I'm not using the correct term...but the case of the round I mentioned definately "rolled" in towards the bullet, as opposed to having sharply defined edges like factory auto pistol cartridge rounds.
I thought I had "reloading" issues with my DW 1911. Then I finally went to a 1911 expert, and he altered the feed lips on my mags, problem solved.
Well, the gun works fine with the stock barrel; the only variables that have been introduced are the LWD aftermarket barrel and my reloaded ammunition...unless my Glock 30 is having some FTRTB problem that just seems to manifest itself with particular bullet styles. I have read about the G30 having FTRTB problems, and I'd like to get a stronger recoil spring. FWIW my gun is Gen 3 and has the "-1" connector. I know Glock modified the connectors in the model 30 at some point to address the FTRTB problem, so that may be a contributing factor.
John Wayne, just to rule out another variable, could you try another bullet? I will be happy to send you some sample of 45ACP lead bullets I use (200/230 gr) and some of my dummy rounds so you can chamber test in your LWD barrel (they are sized at 0.470"-0.472").
If they don't fall in freely, it may be the LWD barrel and you can have LWD enlarge the chamber for you under their life-time service warranty. If they fall in freely with a "clink", it may be something else.
I appreciate the offer, and have been considering buying some different bullets myself. I tried two different styles and weights, but both were from the same manufacturer (Georgia Arms). I think I'll buy some Hornadys (which I know to be of good quality) and try those.
I dont think I'll buy GA lead bullets again. What kind do you use/recommend? I have heard good things about both Penn Bullets and Missouri Bullet Co..
That is good to know about LW's warranty policy; for what I'd be using this barrel for I would rather have it be a little looser in tolerances if it made the gun more reliable. (I shoot reloads to save on money and in competitions like steel challenge, where accuracy is not paramount). If switching bullets does not do it, I may very well contact them.
1. set sizing die to just kiss the shell holder when handle down position.
2. drop sized case into barrel it should drop in easily and fall right out without any shaking.
3. expand case mouth .17 to .20 over sized case diameter.
4. seat 230gr.RNL bullet starting at 1.260
5. in a seperate station crimp cartridge to .469 using a taper crimp
6. test in barrel
results should be round drops in easily and falls out with no effort.
if the round sticks:
re-seat bullet 1.255 then run through crimp die without re-adjusting die.
keep doing it until you get the desired result.
Once again, for those that have not read the first several pages, cases are full length resized and fall freely into and out of my barrel. They are also expanded to the absolute minimum diameter that allows me to start a bullet in the case.
Regarding seating, it seems that most people in this thread recommend seating the bullets toward the maximum OAL...which is fine, but shouldn't the gun function as long as the finished rounds are between min and max OAL? I usually seat them closer to min length to get higher velocities with less powder.