progressive presses - opinions & advice

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In addition to the lee pro1000(for .223) you'll need a case collator ($10?), a double disk kit ($11)-wont throw enough powder otherwise. Also if you don't already have one a length trimmer-lee cutter and lock stud ($4.50),+lee case length guage and shell holder (.223) ($3.50), + lee chamfer tool ($3). How about dial calipers for length checks? I clean range brass and my spent cases in a bucket w/ salt, vinager, laundry soap, then dry thoughly (any moisture in case makes for a dud). On the military crimped brass or range pickup, lube them, decap them, put in drill press and very lightly cut primer edge, then trim the case. I don't load to max pressures and find the cases don't "grow" much but initially a lot of cases exceed spec. Now previously reloaded (can tell by primer) and prepped range pickup get run thru press and loaded.
 
To djpullen
I am also planning to order the lnl ap from Wideners. May i know the SN numbers of their press.

Thank you
Elmer
 
the serial # on my press is 10362. It seems to be a well and heavily built press. It will likely be another month or so before I get to set it up and use it. Most older catalogs I have list the press at $300 and the case feeder at $160 or so. I went to the various websites and they both went way up, especially the case feeder. I wanted to go ahead and order the press from Wideners as they were still at $300 and was hoping to get a good price on the case feeder but their price is around $250 now. I still have to get dies, etc. before I can use it.
 
I have had a Dillon 550 for 15 years. Three years ago the ram wasn't lining up with the die as it should. I called Dillon, said send the press back. Two weeks later a brand new 550 came to my door by UPS. I don't know any one who has better Customer service than Dillon.
 
gunnerjimmy said:
I have had a Dillon 550 for 15 years. Three years ago the ram wasn't lining up with the die as it should. I called Dillon, said send the press back. Two weeks later a brand new 550 came to my door by UPS. I don't know any one who has better Customer service than Dillon.
I often wonder what happens to the old ones they take back. Do they get tossed back into the smelter to become new presses?
 
No matter what anyone may tell you, making the jump from a single stage or turret press to a true progressive isn't trivial. No matter which progressive you choose (and as far as I can tell, all of the models mentioned in this thread WILL do a satisfactory job), be aware that you DO need a certain basic level of mechanical aptitude, and a willingness to be patient and learn the quirks of whatver machine you buy. And they all have quirks, no matter how much fans of this or that "color" of machine may tell you.

I started off on an RCBS "jr" press that was given to me about 40 years ago. I then moved to a Lyman Spar-T for pistol reloading, and an RCBS Rock Chucker for rifles. My first progressive reloader was a MEC Grabber shotgun press. My move into progressive pistol reloading was on the Lee Pro1000. I liked the first one well enough to buy another, and those two served my needs for the better part of two decades. I finally decided I wanted to spend less time and crank out more ammo, so I sold my Pro1000s and purchased a Dillon XL650. I mention all this equipment only to point out that all these machines have reloaded for me to my complete satisfaction. I have also contacted all of the manufacturers mentioned above at one time or another, and have invariably found them to be helpful and competent to work through whatever issue I was having with their equipment.

The price range of progressive loaders is great, and as with anything else, you get what you pay for....which is not to say an inexpensive machine won't work, it just won't give the performance of a better machine. The big questions before you make a move relate to how much you have to spend, what calibers do you want do reload, and what output do you need? Until you have definite answers to these questions, the brand of equipment is irrelevant.
 
I'm the original poster, and I still haven't gotten a progressive yet, but I'm still following this thread.

I've only used an old Lee 3-hole turret press, no experience with anything else. My reloading buddy just ordered a Lyman T-Mag turret press, so I will get to try that one out. However, it's still a turret press so it won't be much different than my Lee Turret.

I'm leaning towards the Hornady LnL. I would like to see one in person, but I don't know anywhere in town that has one on display. Or else I'd like to see a video of one in operation.
be aware that you DO need a certain basic level of mechanical aptitude,
well, I may have very basic aptitude, but not much more than that. However, the guy I usually reload with is extremely mechanically inclined, and has much more reloading/gunsmithing experience than me. I figure if I can't figure something out, he can help me.
 
thanks for those video links!!! The first video was really helpful. I see that your hands are quite busy with these progressive presses. Right hand basically stays on the lever all the time, left hand is busy with putting empty cases in one station and then a bullet in another station...

seems you would get pretty tired after one or two hundred rounds.

the caliber change video was kinda small, but I watched it a couple times too.
 
It is less tiring to produce the same amount of ammo compared to a non-progressive. Mounting the press solid to a good, strong bench makes the press easier to operate and less tiring to use. The downstroke on the handle isn't really a problem (I have a complete LNL-AP setup), it is the small upstroke to seat a primer that can be a killer. If the bench (or press mounting) is not solid, then you have to hold the press with your left hand while pushing forward with the right hand. That gets tiring very quickly especially the left forearm. Mount the press (any press) solid; just do it right the first time.
 
I just reviewed most of this thread, at least the posts about the LnL. Didn't see any commentary on some things I'm still wondering about:

1. the powder measure: Is it accurate, does it need to be checked often, can you trust it?

2. all of my die sets are Lee, with the "powder-thru" expander dies, except for my 44mag die set which is a Hornady titanium-nitride 3-die set. Will the Lee dies be Ok on the LnL? I don't use the powder-thru function anymore even on my Lee turret press (I use a bench mounted Lyman #55 measure).
 
The measure itself is good. I've had a few issues with the older style powder drop activation mechanism, but buying new, you'll get the new style which should work much smoother and is compatible with the new neck-expanding inserts. I'll be converting mine very soon. The new spring(s) are coming from hornady and I'll fab the other small changes myself (it's not an update kit). The new pistol powder drum/rotor is $25 extra and is not optional IMO for loading pistol ammo.

You're dies will be fine, but you have to understand that any die except a hornady crimp-only die will require modification (cutting, filing, and/or grinding) to be used in station #5 (final, presumably crimping, station).
 
"1. the powder measure: Is it accurate, does it need to be checked often, can you trust it?

2. all of my die sets are Lee, with the "powder-thru" expander dies, except for my 44mag die set which is a Hornady titanium-nitride 3-die set. Will the Lee dies be Ok on the LnL? I don't use the powder-thru function anymore even on my Lee turret press (I use a bench mounted Lyman #55 measure)."

Answer to question 1: Yes, it's extremely accurate and does not need to be checked often. I have the older model and have been extremely happy with it. The newer model is actually smoother.

Anwer to question 2: Yes, your die sets with work fine. You may have to do some adjustments to use the Lee FCD in station 5 in order to clear the ejection wire. Standard sets with crimping and seating together will work easily. Your Hornady sets of course will work great. I would strongly suggest you use the powder through function on the LnL, it'll allow you to have a powder check die such as the RCBS lockout die, greatly increasing safety if you make a mistake and somehow double charge a case. Hard to do on an autoeject and autoadvance press, but possible.

Regards,

Dave
 
all of my Lee die sets are the standard 3-die pistol, 2-die rifle sets. My only set with a FCD is my 7.62x39 set.

I've seen those "powder check" dies or "powder cop" mentioned. I'm trying to imagine how they work... :confused:

edit: oh yeah, I keep forgetting that I'm intending to continue using my Lee Turret for most of my calibers (which are shot infrequently). If I get a LnL, it will mostly be for .45auto pistol reloading, and .223 for rifle. Unless, of course, that I fall in love with it, and start using it for everything.
 
I just bought LNL to replace my Lee Load Master I am very happy with the decision. I highly recommend the Case Feeder and I also recommend the Dillon or RCBS low Primer Alarm. Once I got everything setup and running smoothly I found myself forgetting about the primers and running out so I ended up pulling bullets quite often. My preference it the RCBS Uniflow Measure and case activation linkage over the Hornady power measure and case activated linkage. There seems to be a lot of slop in the Hornady setup compared to RCBS and I don't like the fact that the Hornady cylinder isn't anodized and tends to rust in time. However, I do recommend checking your power drop every so often; I usually weigh my powder every 25 to 50 case. Here are the issues I have encountered with the LNL:

  • Shell Plate number 8 is finicky about certain military 9mm cases that have a smaller bevel above the rim. I am thinking about trying a shell plate 9, 10 is too sloppy.
  • The Case feeder setup with 40 S&W is not the best. You have to use the large tube assembly and the cases do not sit evenly on top of next case to be fed and can cause the case to mis-feed. I have made an insert that fits inside the large case tube so the last case sit level on the case to be fed, but long term I want to get a small case feed tube end and bore it out for the large feed tube.

I really like the LNL over the Load Master I had but I really don't see any difference between the Dillon 650 and the LNL. It was a toss up between the two when I bought mine and it is like Rico567 said they both have their idiosyncrasies.

Don't let anyone confuse the facts with the Dillon 550 or the RCBS 2000 neither of those presses are true progressive presses both require manual indexing and are less complicated to operate then the Hornady Progressive, Dillon 650, or Lee Load Master
 
Lee Load Master Question vs Other Progressives?

I sure understand that everyone has preferences. That's great. But as the owner of a Lee Load Master for the last two months, having put over 3000 rounds through it with 3 different pistol calibers and having zero problems, I don't understand the problems people seem to have. I follow the directions on the Lee website--the videos are very clear--the setup is very simple--

1. Set the dies correctly.
2. Set the primer depth correctly.
3. Set the case retainers correctly.
4. Choose the proper auto disk.
5. Set the return chain for the auto disk powder measure correctly.

That's it. It takes about ten minutes once you've been through it once or twice. If you have extra turrets, once the dies are set you just switch the turrets. Goes even faster.

If you use the auto case feeder, which I do, that can take another 5 minutes to install.

The only problem I watch for is the occasional case that comes out of the case feeder upside down--easy to catch and take care of. All the case feeders I know about, including Dillon, will tip one over now and then.

The primer system is so simple it is hard to see what can happen. There are two moving parts in the primer trough/tray assembly and the priming post/spring assembly on the primer seating lever arm.

What causes trouble, and why? I've yet to find it. The only screwups have been my own doing--a loose die; one or two primers that didn't flip over in the tray, which I didn't notice; not much else.
 
benedict1 I hope you didn't take my comment about the Load Master as a bash against Lee. My Lee loaded over 10,000 rounds and for the money I spent it did it well. Lee has some good ideas and good customer support, but the press does need to be babied through loads. The most common problem I had was the v-block not pressing the case all the way into the shell plate. The other issue was that the plastic primer feed finger would break and have to be replaced. The rotary power measure was junk and ball power would get between the drum and the housing (all plastic) and leak, this is why I used the RCBS Uniflow with the RCBS case activated linkage. the Lee is a good press for the money considering it comes with the case feeder and dies for about $225, but it is not as durable or as smooth operating as the Dillon or Hornady from my experience.
 
Idano--

Idano--no, I didn't take it that way at all. I am just curious about the failures/problems people have had. Since I have had zero problems, other than my own doing, I was curious.

I don't load rifle and have no experience with the powder measure for that. I have not broken a primer slider or anything else for that matter. For the money I think it is a wonderful press.

I know many guys like the Hornady. I look at it aand the Load Master as reasonable alternatives to much more expensive equipment that basically does the same job. I'm on a budget and guns already have cost a bunch. So the price of the reloading equipment becomes an important factor.

I sure hope you like your press and that you load many reliable rounds with it.

Good shooting!:)
 
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