Putting a little more power in a $15.00 Daisy
englertracing
Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2017
- Messages
- 5
Hello!
some blabber,
my friend brought over his pellet gun so i could sight it in after he got frustrated with it,
i found out i enjoy shooting it!
so i pulled out my red ryder i had removed the stock and lever from attempting to get the spring out of it about 10 years ago. never got the spring out.
put it back togeather and laughed about how you can watch the bb drop in comparison to the gamo where you cant even get a glimpse of the pellet.
so i decided it needed some preload, found a doodad in the pile of lathe scrap, steel, had to go to work soon, and didnt feel like moving the car out of the garage to get to the lathe. re assembled the gun..... shot it once, go to cock it again and GRRRIIIINNNNNDDDDD, yuck....!!!
so i decided to make a spacer or actually tell my younger brother to chuck up a piece of 0.750" diameter delrin, drill a 33/64 hole (.516") and part it off at .700" while i dissassembled the RR again.
I deburred, and then polished the spring guide in the lathe carefully with scotch bright and then 1200 grit wet paper
re greased everything and reassembled everything
i was quite pleased with the outcome
and i was bored and googled red ryder preload to see if anyone else had gone with any more preload or if i had done well enough
so i found your site, realized my trigger was actually broken and not just two pieces
and that you were drilling air tubes!
so i ordered a metal lever, a new trigger
actually an entire mb assembly so i could put a new seal in MY red ryder
here is the delrin spacer, it looks yucky and dirty but its actually clean and has a light coat of schaffers aluminum complex grease with molly.
the spacer is just big enough to keep the spring guide off the inside of the gun by maybe 0.020" it cocks buttery smooth
when i removed the bear trap i made a new bushing from some 630 bushing bronze i have 8ft of from an old project, the bushing is oversized on the left side the steps down and goes through, then on the other side its just an oversized spacer, i figured the gun could use some extra strength here with the extra spring load, also i used the light springs from 2 triggers in this trigger
Cobalt,
you 100% inspired this part of my project
how about a 0.131" ID shot tube?
Stainless steel
11/64 OD.... thats 0.171 for a glorious 0.006" fit in the barrel
I found the tube on ebay for 2.60$ for 12" but it came from the EU
polished it and chamfered on the lathe then smashed ground, drilled, ground it to work.
eh gotta go to be continued
some blabber,
my friend brought over his pellet gun so i could sight it in after he got frustrated with it,
i found out i enjoy shooting it!
so i pulled out my red ryder i had removed the stock and lever from attempting to get the spring out of it about 10 years ago. never got the spring out.
put it back togeather and laughed about how you can watch the bb drop in comparison to the gamo where you cant even get a glimpse of the pellet.
so i decided it needed some preload, found a doodad in the pile of lathe scrap, steel, had to go to work soon, and didnt feel like moving the car out of the garage to get to the lathe. re assembled the gun..... shot it once, go to cock it again and GRRRIIIINNNNNDDDDD, yuck....!!!
so i decided to make a spacer or actually tell my younger brother to chuck up a piece of 0.750" diameter delrin, drill a 33/64 hole (.516") and part it off at .700" while i dissassembled the RR again.
I deburred, and then polished the spring guide in the lathe carefully with scotch bright and then 1200 grit wet paper
re greased everything and reassembled everything
i was quite pleased with the outcome
and i was bored and googled red ryder preload to see if anyone else had gone with any more preload or if i had done well enough
so i found your site, realized my trigger was actually broken and not just two pieces
and that you were drilling air tubes!
so i ordered a metal lever, a new trigger
actually an entire mb assembly so i could put a new seal in MY red ryder
here is the delrin spacer, it looks yucky and dirty but its actually clean and has a light coat of schaffers aluminum complex grease with molly.
the spacer is just big enough to keep the spring guide off the inside of the gun by maybe 0.020" it cocks buttery smooth
when i removed the bear trap i made a new bushing from some 630 bushing bronze i have 8ft of from an old project, the bushing is oversized on the left side the steps down and goes through, then on the other side its just an oversized spacer, i figured the gun could use some extra strength here with the extra spring load, also i used the light springs from 2 triggers in this trigger
Cobalt,
you 100% inspired this part of my project
how about a 0.131" ID shot tube?
Stainless steel
11/64 OD.... thats 0.171 for a glorious 0.006" fit in the barrel
I found the tube on ebay for 2.60$ for 12" but it came from the EU
polished it and chamfered on the lathe then smashed ground, drilled, ground it to work.
eh gotta go to be continued
Wow- impressive! The delrin should hold up fine, and has the side benefit of low friction and giving a spring compressor more to bite onto. But the air tube- you have something there! As you read, I have drilled mine to 3/32" and one to 7/64". And trashed a few bits along the way. Looks like I should be looking for some of that tubing!
If you're using 0.7" preload and the wide open air tube, you should be over 330 fps. The spring’s condition will have some bearing on that but if you install the new spring from the MB, I’m guessing 350 fps isn’t out of the question. Maybe more, who knows. IIRC the most preload I’ve used was 0.750”. I estimated that 1.15” is the max before hitting coil bind, but at that much preload the plunger tube will be distorted and if it’s bad enough the tube ‘legs’ will bear on the spring, killing velocity and causing wear. Not to mention that will be hard on the plastic trigger assembly and cocking lever. Even a metal lever would start to feel the pain at that rate, I believe.
One thing I'd like to mention- be careful that the air tube is centered to the shot tube opening when you push the plunger assembly home in the receiver, so it doesn't get bent. Usually the plunger head will hold it in position pretty well so you should be fine. Plus you’ve done this already, but I wasn’t sure if you had done it with the new air tube. The air tube on the newer guns uses a plunger pin that has flats on it, as I'm sure you noticed. The way the factory air tube is held with the flatted pin makes aligning it with the abutment/shot tube easier when the plunger tube is reassembled . If the air tube now has a round hole, it can move further out of position than it can with the factory air tube and pin.
Hoping to see more!
If you're using 0.7" preload and the wide open air tube, you should be over 330 fps. The spring’s condition will have some bearing on that but if you install the new spring from the MB, I’m guessing 350 fps isn’t out of the question. Maybe more, who knows. IIRC the most preload I’ve used was 0.750”. I estimated that 1.15” is the max before hitting coil bind, but at that much preload the plunger tube will be distorted and if it’s bad enough the tube ‘legs’ will bear on the spring, killing velocity and causing wear. Not to mention that will be hard on the plastic trigger assembly and cocking lever. Even a metal lever would start to feel the pain at that rate, I believe.
One thing I'd like to mention- be careful that the air tube is centered to the shot tube opening when you push the plunger assembly home in the receiver, so it doesn't get bent. Usually the plunger head will hold it in position pretty well so you should be fine. Plus you’ve done this already, but I wasn’t sure if you had done it with the new air tube. The air tube on the newer guns uses a plunger pin that has flats on it, as I'm sure you noticed. The way the factory air tube is held with the flatted pin makes aligning it with the abutment/shot tube easier when the plunger tube is reassembled . If the air tube now has a round hole, it can move further out of position than it can with the factory air tube and pin.
Hoping to see more!
englertracing
Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2017
- Messages
- 5
Well, I had to leave the other day in as hurry,
The 0.171 o.d. air tube...
Has the most glorious fit in the barrel, just has a precision feel....
But one problem
The seal on the "abutment"?
It went in pretty hard.
But the gun worked, I decided to run a full load of BBS through it to see if it would break in.
Well no such luck it came back out hard
And the seal was torn, so now I need to get the barrel and abutment out and make a new seal maybe from some Teflon.
I considered just removing the seal, I'm surprised your gun lost power when you did
If your trying to move air down the barrel, then why seal around the tube?
Well some may be lost where the bb pickup hole is more easily when air is traveling around rather than through, the tube. But maybe with the better fitting tube it won't matter if that seal is there.
But u think I'll make an a Teflon one if I can figure out how to get the barrel out of this thing.
Any tips?
The 0.171 o.d. air tube...
Has the most glorious fit in the barrel, just has a precision feel....
But one problem
The seal on the "abutment"?
It went in pretty hard.
But the gun worked, I decided to run a full load of BBS through it to see if it would break in.
Well no such luck it came back out hard
And the seal was torn, so now I need to get the barrel and abutment out and make a new seal maybe from some Teflon.
I considered just removing the seal, I'm surprised your gun lost power when you did
If your trying to move air down the barrel, then why seal around the tube?
Well some may be lost where the bb pickup hole is more easily when air is traveling around rather than through, the tube. But maybe with the better fitting tube it won't matter if that seal is there.
But u think I'll make an a Teflon one if I can figure out how to get the barrel out of this thing.
Any tips?
The factory RR air tube is only 0.163” OD. I’ve not tried making a seal for the new style BB guns, the shot tube uses a hard white nylon/plastic synthetic material for the seal instead of the rubber used previously, and I think it’s pressed on the end of the abutment- note that I’ve never tried to remove the seal from a shot tube assembly. If making a seal doesn’t pan out, you might take a look at enlarging the channel that the air tube occupies to make it fit the new air tube. If your original shot tube isn’t salvageable, you can use the one from the MB you have coming. Either way, this will mean removing the shot tube unless you have an uber long drill bit to reach it in situ.
To remove the shot tube, I have a roll pin punch that happens to have a small shaft that merges into a wider 'handle' where the punch can be hit w/a hammer. The shoulders are 90 degrees, so it makes a tool that fits inside the shot tube and sits evenly on the end of it. You could find a different tool for this; the main thing is that you not hurt the crown in the process of removing it. The shot tube drives out the breech end of the receiver, once the plunger tube is removed. Be sure it's orientated correctly when you reinstall it- the opening in the abutment that shows the BB is in position has to be at 12 o’clock, else BBs won’t feed correctly. Before you drive the shot tube in the last 1/2"-3/4", you can turn it to get it perfect. Once it’s all the way in there are staking divots that will try to keep the shot tube from turning.
Forgive me if I’ve misunderstood this, but ALL the compressed air that propels the BB has to come from the opening at the tip of the air tube. If there’s not a good seal between the air tube and shot tube/abutment, the compressed air will leak into the receiver/barrel shroud- doing no work to propel the shot. The trick is to have the air tube OD fit the abutment/shot tube ID snugly so as to make an airtight seal, but not so tight as to cause undue friction and/or cause damage to the seal at installation.
Cobalt, have you compared the ID and the OD and the length of the model 25 and the RR shot tubes? I have a damaged RR shot tube that I plan to disassemble. I wonder if would be possible to use the 25 shot tube as a replacement? I wish the 25 tube could be purchased by itself, without the end pieces and feed tube. If it could be mounted in the RR pieces, would the tube extend beyond the barrel plug/front sight? I ponder this based on your report of the 25 shot tube in your 104. I don't want to order the 25 assembly if the OD of it and the RR are not the same. Thx!
Also as a data point. I have my first BB gun that I got for Christmas 1965 or 66. It's the 1894 spittin image. It's apart at the moment waiting on new seals. The air tube ID is 0.078, same as my 1938b guns that I am working on. Thanks again for this thread!
englertracing
Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2017
- Messages
- 5
I miss imagined the internals
a piece of the jimbob on the left there was the piece i saw hanging into the barrel
i trimmed it up, i warmed up a piece of the tubing i made my air tube from and pushed it through the seal
now it fits
the key was proud in the barrel
barrel was a sharp edge so i chamfered it
after this there was a significant reduction in friction,
but i think there is more to be had
but it works like a champ now!
as far as power goes
my stock one goes through 2 cans
before this my modified one went through 3.5
don't have an after for the friction check yet had to go to work
but it went through some rv panneling that it was only sticking into, and the stock one bounces off of
now what i meant wassssss....
im questioning the necessity of the seal between the air tube and the real barrel, not the seal between the air chamber and the stamped "outer barrel"
im trying to figure out if the seal where the pen is pointing is critical,
you lost power on a different model when you forgot yours,
but im not seeing it on this, if it seals well here
all flow through the tube into the barrel and some is lost through the bb loading hole
if it does not seal well here,
then flow will look like the following
in either case it ends up down the barrel....
maybe more on the unsealed will find its way out the loading hole but im doubtful of that
a piece of the jimbob on the left there was the piece i saw hanging into the barrel
i trimmed it up, i warmed up a piece of the tubing i made my air tube from and pushed it through the seal
now it fits
the key was proud in the barrel
barrel was a sharp edge so i chamfered it
after this there was a significant reduction in friction,
but i think there is more to be had
but it works like a champ now!
as far as power goes
my stock one goes through 2 cans
before this my modified one went through 3.5
don't have an after for the friction check yet had to go to work
but it went through some rv panneling that it was only sticking into, and the stock one bounces off of
now what i meant wassssss....
im questioning the necessity of the seal between the air tube and the real barrel, not the seal between the air chamber and the stamped "outer barrel"
im trying to figure out if the seal where the pen is pointing is critical,
you lost power on a different model when you forgot yours,
but im not seeing it on this, if it seals well here
all flow through the tube into the barrel and some is lost through the bb loading hole
if it does not seal well here,
then flow will look like the following
in either case it ends up down the barrel....
maybe more on the unsealed will find its way out the loading hole but im doubtful of that
@ hinz57-
The way the 25 shot tube is constructed, the shot tube liner (the actual BB barrel) will be longer than the liner from a RR. But it wouldn't be hard to cut it to length. I don't know how to go about disassembling these shot tubes so you're in uncharted waters!
The ID of the 25 shot tube is marginally smaller (~0.0005" to 0.001") and this accounts for some of the reason the 25 air tube gets about 20-30 fps more MV than a gravity feed removable shot tube, all else being equal.
If appearance/originality isn't an issue, I would see how a 25 shot tube fits the RR. The threads are the same so the length of the RR barrel shroud/receiver will need to be checked w/the 25 tube installed to see if there was a need for more or less shroud length to snugly tighten the 25 tube to the end of the RR shroud. Who knows- you might get lucky and the 25 tube will fit w/o any changes. But if I had to guess I'd say the RR shroud will be a tad short. I didn't see anything about this online, maybe you'll have better luck searching.
I don't have a Red Ryder that uses the removable shot tube to compare. I do have a model 96 shot tube and the 25 tube is about 3/16" longer overall than the 96 tube. But, I do not know whether the 96 and RR tubes are the same length. And I know the precision 499 shot tube has a lot larger OD than either the RR or 25, so unfortunately It's out of the picture.
The way the 25 shot tube is constructed, the shot tube liner (the actual BB barrel) will be longer than the liner from a RR. But it wouldn't be hard to cut it to length. I don't know how to go about disassembling these shot tubes so you're in uncharted waters!
The ID of the 25 shot tube is marginally smaller (~0.0005" to 0.001") and this accounts for some of the reason the 25 air tube gets about 20-30 fps more MV than a gravity feed removable shot tube, all else being equal.
If appearance/originality isn't an issue, I would see how a 25 shot tube fits the RR. The threads are the same so the length of the RR barrel shroud/receiver will need to be checked w/the 25 tube installed to see if there was a need for more or less shroud length to snugly tighten the 25 tube to the end of the RR shroud. Who knows- you might get lucky and the 25 tube will fit w/o any changes. But if I had to guess I'd say the RR shroud will be a tad short. I didn't see anything about this online, maybe you'll have better luck searching.
Yes, IMHO it is critical.
im trying to figure out if the seal where the pen is pointing is critical...
My understanding of it is, when the gun is cocked and the air tube is retracted as far as it will go, it's just behind the BB sitting against the magnet in abutment assembly. When the gun is fired, the air tube gives an initial "pool cue" shot to the bb, then when the piston slams against the abutment seal, the compressed air enters the small hole at the base of the air tube and then exits the air tube from the opening at the end of the air tube at high velocity. If the compressed air doesn't exit into the shot tube by way of the air tube, the air velocity will be low compared to what exits the air tube.
In any event, besides my experience w/the 104 and the missing seal insert killing MV, I have replaced old worn barrel seals w/new seals and in every case the MV increased.
Data point. RR barrels x 3
OD 0.261", Mitutoyo mic
ID 0.180", drill #15
OAL 10 7/8", Stanley tape measure, barrel only
I would appreciate comparative numbers on a #25 barrel.
Barrel removed from bb feed assy parts to determine the 10 7/8" measurement. Approx 11/16" of insertion into feed assy means that one sees approx 10 1/4" of barrel extending out of the feed assy.
So... if you could measure the exposed amount of barrel and the OD of the #25, we could know if a 25 barrel could be adapted to the RR easily.
Thx for your help and patience!
OD 0.261", Mitutoyo mic
ID 0.180", drill #15
OAL 10 7/8", Stanley tape measure, barrel only
I would appreciate comparative numbers on a #25 barrel.
Barrel removed from bb feed assy parts to determine the 10 7/8" measurement. Approx 11/16" of insertion into feed assy means that one sees approx 10 1/4" of barrel extending out of the feed assy.
So... if you could measure the exposed amount of barrel and the OD of the #25, we could know if a 25 barrel could be adapted to the RR easily.
Thx for your help and patience!
Is this a removable shot tube assembly or one of the integral shot tubes?
This is what is currently used in the RR. You can order new assemblies from daisy. I believe that you would refer to it as integral.
My idea is to disassemble a #25 shot tube assy and fit the barrel only in a 70th anniversary RR.
Englertracing shows a RR shot tube disassembled. I have done this as well.
Sorry for the confusion. I'm looking for a better bore. If the OD of the actual 25 barrel is .261, and it is long enough, it can be fit to a current RR.
Thx again!
Thx!
I'm placing parts order tomorrow. Taking pics as well. Have to figure out how to post pics. Thanks again!
Also, a thread is HERE.
ETA- Full size option above inserts the photo into the post. Don't make it too large else the field of view will require a viewer to scroll sideways to see the entire photo. I think the thumbnail option adds the thumbnail to the bottom of the post- clicking on it will open a larger view.
Last edited:
I have a 1938B shot tube from a made-in-America 2000 Millennium model that I took apart. This pos shot tube used seamed tubing that was so poorly formed that light can be seen shining through the seam. The newer shot tubes are seamless.
Before drilling the peened areas to take it apart I drilled a small hole in each side of the abutment where the pot metal is peened to hold the two halves together. The hole’s sized for a 0-80 machine screw. I’ll use a screw, flat washer and nut on each side to reassemble it. The shot tube was also loose in the abutment and that can't be good for accuracy, so I'll use JB Weld to hold the new tube securely. And I plan to replace the smooth bore shot tube with a length of model 880 rifled barrel that's in a parts order that came today.
The reason for using a rifled barrel is to satisfy my curiosity: I want to see if it will help long range accuracy ("long range" being relative, I mean we are talking BB guns here). I already know rifling isn't needed for 5 meter accuracy- the model 499 proves that. But I hope to see an improvement out past 25 yards. If not, no biggie- it'll still be better than what it came with, and anyway, I want to shoot a few pellets out of it just to see what the MV and accuracy will be when shooting muzzle loaded pellets.
Before drilling the peened areas to take it apart I drilled a small hole in each side of the abutment where the pot metal is peened to hold the two halves together. The hole’s sized for a 0-80 machine screw. I’ll use a screw, flat washer and nut on each side to reassemble it. The shot tube was also loose in the abutment and that can't be good for accuracy, so I'll use JB Weld to hold the new tube securely. And I plan to replace the smooth bore shot tube with a length of model 880 rifled barrel that's in a parts order that came today.
The reason for using a rifled barrel is to satisfy my curiosity: I want to see if it will help long range accuracy ("long range" being relative, I mean we are talking BB guns here). I already know rifling isn't needed for 5 meter accuracy- the model 499 proves that. But I hope to see an improvement out past 25 yards. If not, no biggie- it'll still be better than what it came with, and anyway, I want to shoot a few pellets out of it just to see what the MV and accuracy will be when shooting muzzle loaded pellets.
I have a 1938B shot tube from a made-in-America 2000 Millennium model that I took apart. This pos shot tube used seamed tubing that was so poorly formed that light can be seen shining through the seam. The newer shot tubes are seamless.
Before drilling the peened areas to take it apart I drilled a small hole in each side of the abutment where the pot metal is peened to hold the two halves together. The hole’s sized for a 0-80 machine screw. I’ll use a screw, flat washer and nut on each side to reassemble it. The shot tube was also loose in the abutment and that can't be good for accuracy, so I'll use JB Weld to hold the new tube securely. And I plan to replace the smooth bore shot tube with a length of model 880 rifled barrel that's in a parts order that came today.
The reason for using a rifled barrel is to satisfy my curiosity: I want to see if it will help long range accuracy ("long range" being relative, I mean we are talking BB guns here). I already know rifling isn't needed for 5 meter accuracy- the model 499 proves that. But I hope to see an improvement out past 25 yards. If not, no biggie- it'll still be better than what it came with, and anyway, I want to shoot a few pellets out of it just to see what the MV and accuracy will be when shooting muzzle loaded pellets.
with the rifled barrel you may want to try gamo round balls. BBs are under sized and hard so they tend to bounce down the rifled barrels and or take inconsistent spin. Smooth bores with tight fit usually produce the best accuracy when using hard BBs.
I just noticed h&n makes some 7.7s....those might be the ticket
What remains to be seen is if there's enough spin imparted on a steel BB by a rifled airgun barrel to do anything to stabilize it at longer distance. If all it does is slide across the lands and slew out the end of the barrel knuckle ball style, I'd expect the accuracy to suffer if anything, and surely not be any better than a smoothbore.
What I also suspect is that a tighter smoothbore barrel like used on the 499 would be the best way to go about this, but at the moment I don't see using a 499 barrel in the Red Ryder type shot tube assembly, mainly because there's not enough meat for the abutment to be reamed out large enough to support the larger OD 499 shot tube. Now, the 499 shot tube WILL work, it just needs to be turned down on one end so it will fit- but alas I have no lathe.
I agree using lead shot is definitely worth a try. I did know going in the BB OD vs. barrel ID would be a potential issue, and planned to use the slightly larger OD Daisy Avanti BBs to at least partially offset this. But even using the steel Avanti BBs exclusively costs a lot more than the BB I like to use- the standard zinc plated Daisy Precision Max from Walmart. The lead round shot all cost many times more than what the standard Daisy BBs cost- in some cases 2 shots would be equal to a .22 rimfire round. So as an experiment I'll not let cost get in the way. But from a practicality standpoint, lead shot is a deal killer for me- at least to use daily.
SOME NUMBERS:
Daisy Precision Max zinc plated steel BBs = “standard” baseline Daisy BB
0 .12¢ per round, or 8.6 BBs per 1¢ when bought in 6000 BB bottle from WM
LEAD SHOT VS DAISY STANDARD ZINC
H&N Excite Smart Shot .177, 7.4 grains, copper plated lead, 150ct to 1500ct / 1.3¢ to 2.7¢ per round
11 to 23 x more than standard Daisy BB
Gamo .177, 8.2 Grains, Round Lead Balls, 250ct, ~$4.00 / 1.6¢ per round
13.3 x more than standard Daisy BB
H&N Rundkugel, .177, 4.50mm Dia., 7.70 Grains, Round Lead Ball, 500ct $15.25 / 3¢ per round
25 x more than standard Daisy BB
H&N Rundkugel, .177, 4.54mm Dia., 7.70 Grains, Round Lead Ball, 500ct $19.95 / 4¢ per round
33 x more than standard Daisy BB
What I also suspect is that a tighter smoothbore barrel like used on the 499 would be the best way to go about this, but at the moment I don't see using a 499 barrel in the Red Ryder type shot tube assembly, mainly because there's not enough meat for the abutment to be reamed out large enough to support the larger OD 499 shot tube. Now, the 499 shot tube WILL work, it just needs to be turned down on one end so it will fit- but alas I have no lathe.
I agree using lead shot is definitely worth a try. I did know going in the BB OD vs. barrel ID would be a potential issue, and planned to use the slightly larger OD Daisy Avanti BBs to at least partially offset this. But even using the steel Avanti BBs exclusively costs a lot more than the BB I like to use- the standard zinc plated Daisy Precision Max from Walmart. The lead round shot all cost many times more than what the standard Daisy BBs cost- in some cases 2 shots would be equal to a .22 rimfire round. So as an experiment I'll not let cost get in the way. But from a practicality standpoint, lead shot is a deal killer for me- at least to use daily.
SOME NUMBERS:
Daisy Precision Max zinc plated steel BBs = “standard” baseline Daisy BB
0 .12¢ per round, or 8.6 BBs per 1¢ when bought in 6000 BB bottle from WM
LEAD SHOT VS DAISY STANDARD ZINC
H&N Excite Smart Shot .177, 7.4 grains, copper plated lead, 150ct to 1500ct / 1.3¢ to 2.7¢ per round
11 to 23 x more than standard Daisy BB
Gamo .177, 8.2 Grains, Round Lead Balls, 250ct, ~$4.00 / 1.6¢ per round
13.3 x more than standard Daisy BB
H&N Rundkugel, .177, 4.50mm Dia., 7.70 Grains, Round Lead Ball, 500ct $15.25 / 3¢ per round
25 x more than standard Daisy BB
H&N Rundkugel, .177, 4.54mm Dia., 7.70 Grains, Round Lead Ball, 500ct $19.95 / 4¢ per round
33 x more than standard Daisy BB
Last edited:
Had a small setback today regarding a rifled barrel to try in a Red Ryder, turns out I ordered the wrong part. Instead of a model 880 rifled straw barrel, I got the barrel shroud. Drat- $5.00 down the tube, but what's worse is the part I need is part of an assembly that costs $12.00. Plus I'll have to pay shipping all over again. Sorry to sound cheap here, but damn- I hate when that happens!
So now I need to go through my parts diagrams to see what else might work. Possibly even a rifled Crosman barrel, heck I'm not brand loyal when it comes to modding these airguns. Just need a rifled straw barrel in the area of 0.260" - 0.265" OD x 11" long- shouldn't be that hard to find. Or might be time to see what it'll cost to have a 499 barrel turned down to ~0.260" on one end, and forget about rifled barrels for steel BBs. I was curious to see what a pellet would do out of a Red Ryder w/a rifled barrel, but muzzle loading pellets opens another can of worms regarding skirt deformation, etc. Might be time to rethink this a bit! haha
So now I need to go through my parts diagrams to see what else might work. Possibly even a rifled Crosman barrel, heck I'm not brand loyal when it comes to modding these airguns. Just need a rifled straw barrel in the area of 0.260" - 0.265" OD x 11" long- shouldn't be that hard to find. Or might be time to see what it'll cost to have a 499 barrel turned down to ~0.260" on one end, and forget about rifled barrels for steel BBs. I was curious to see what a pellet would do out of a Red Ryder w/a rifled barrel, but muzzle loading pellets opens another can of worms regarding skirt deformation, etc. Might be time to rethink this a bit! haha
I just learned the Crosman Nightstalker has a 17" long rifled straw barrel that measures 0.26" OD. A fine gent from network54 forum is sending me one, it has perfect rifling and was only used to shoot lead pellets. It looks to be a perfect match for what I want to do with it. I'm thinking about trying it first at 17" before cutting it down, just for curiosity's sake.
Curious how this will pan out...
Curious how this will pan out...
