Putting a little more power in a $15.00 Daisy

[VMC]

Thanks Cobalt, Now I see what the holes are for. The top rear sight on the 105s in this picture is a muzzle loader one and the bottom one is a Gamo pellet gun sight from their Gamo USA web site. I glued them on with E6000 flex glue and it holds tight. Just knock them off with a rubber hammer to remove and glue peels off with no harm if you want. I raised the front sight with some Epoxy putty stick and Super Glued a fiber optic on top to match the rear height. Now I can dial in on targets with amazing accuracy for a BB gun using the Model 499 barrel which measures several thousand of an inch ID smaller than the stock barrel.

 

[VMC]

In the model 105 pictures in my post the 499 barrel extends past the end plug sights so I made an extension from some black Delrin stick of the same size drilled for the barrel tube & epoxied on the front of the stock plug. That's why the barrel shrouds look longer than stock. The 102-36 model I got for $10 only problem was the abutment was loose and stuck to the seal. Easy fixed by gluing it back in the staked position.

 

[Ratte]

VMC
Very nice work indeed!
Cheers!
"Ratte"

 

[TerryCowger]

Though I would show you all what I did to improve my Model 95 .
I doesn't give it any more power but it does give it more bling and a soothe trigger pull.
I made it out of two pieces of 1/8" brass soldered together (only because I didn't have any 1/4" stock).
Have a look..................
Terry

 

[kBob]

Wonderous!

-kBob

 

[cobalt327]

That's outstanding indeed!

 

[TerryCowger]

Thanks guy's
If anyone should like a template just ask, I can send ya a PDF that will print full size.
From there just double sided tape it to your choice of metal, cut it out, shape it, fit it to the gun.
I have templates for stock or roller triggers, the roller is a little more work and you would need to cut the slot for the roller and drill and tap a 4-40 hole for the 1/4" roller.
I also have one for the 1938B RR but it's not a roller.
Note: you may have to increase the trigger spring tension as the power goes up in the gun.
I have one in my M95 and another in a 1938BRR both are shooting at over 525 with no problems, but both have increased trigger spring pressure.
Terry

 

[VMC]

Great work Terry! Does the 1938B Red Rider trigger you mention replace the plastic trigger on newer guns with the different location of the pivot hole? I know it would need a coil return spring seated in the stock like the old models. I would like a PDF if so. I have been thinking of making one for this myself.

 

[TerryCowger]

Let's see if can get these PDF's to load ?
Here ya go (hopefully) ?
They are straight forward and simple to make and fit, I use 3/16" tubing to center them in the reciever just keep in mind the more power the gun has the stronger the trigger spring may need to be. I haven't put a roller on a 1938RR trigger as I dont know if there is enough room to do so. If anyone does please let me know.
Any questions just ask: Terry
1938BRRtrigger drawing2FINAL.pdf
M95Trigger3.0.pdf

 

[VMC]

Thanks Terry, for the PDF's they print out fine.

 

[TerryCowger]

Here's a couple of pictures of one in a Daisy Buck cut-a-way.
One picture of it cocked and the other of it at rest.
Don't know if this will help but you can see how it fits into the gun.
"WARNING" keep in mind this eliminates the safety and bear trap on the modern guns and may not be for everyone.
Terry

 

[VMC]

Thats a great picture of the inner workings through the cutout. I have been wondering how to do this very modification as I hate the plastic trigger, safety and the ratchet thing. I think this can be better than the old metal triggers. I just bought a 1'x4" piece of 1/4" thick metal plate a Lowe's to use. I plan to case hardening compound heated with a Map Torch on the notch where it contacts and holds the spring tube at full cock and bluing solution on the rest of the trigger. A hardened and polished notch should make for a smooth trigger. I don't think there is room for the roller on the 1938B.

 

[TerryCowger]

Thanks and the gun still shoots, I was having trouble getting all the angles rite so I did some surgery.
I agree on all the above, that particular trigger went into a 1938B RR that shoots constantly over 500 fps with no ill affects.
Where you may consider a roller is on the cocking lever tip, a roller on the cocking lever greatly reduces the grinding/gouging and wear on the tip of the lever and gives the cocking motion a very smooth feel, especially when ya add one of those Colbalt springs.

Terry

 

[cobalt327]

Terry, this is outstanding! Thank you for you making it available to the community- hell of a generous gesture!!

I want to be sure my printer is accurate. At 100%, I get 1.95" measured across the drawing as shown below.

What is your impression of the trigger pull?

And thanks again.

 

[TerryCowger]

Thanks for the kind words Mark
As you know I'm not in this to make money I'm into it to have fun modifying my little Daisy model 95 .
So when I make or find things that can help me or others why not pass them along.
I went back to my original drawing and drew lines across the top and bottom then checked the measurement and came up with 1.91" so your good, the angle of your measurement may be the very small difference ?
The trigger pull on the 1938RR that I put the trigger in has a really smooth trigger pull, it moves about 1/4" to 3/8" before release and is very consistent.
I did find the the more power the gun has the more spring is needed to keep the plunger from pulling off the sear plate. The spring I used appears very heavy but it actually doesn't increase the pull that much, in fact I think it's lighter than the original RR set up.
I just talked to my friend who has the RR and he said the pull is lighter than the OE but he also said dont put your finger on the trigger unless you are ready to shoot as there is no free play.
I used a spring from a sewing machine, I will get a picture of one and post asap.
I will also show ya were on a sewing machine you can find one.
Just dont tell your wife I told ya to take her sewing machine apart !
Terry

 

[TerryCowger]

The spring I use is out of what they call the pressure bar on a sewing machine, the part that holds the material down against the needle plate while sewing.
I have circled the part you need to remove to get at the spring in the picture below, these usually just unscrew and the spring will slide out through the top.
I would "strongly" suggest going to a Goodwill or Salvation army store for a junk used machine rather than take the "bosses" machine apart.
The other pictures are of a complete spring and one showing the O.D.
Hope this helps?
Terry

 

[bark-eater]

Hi all. Anyone know if its feasible to convert a Daisy 499 to a repeater with the current production Red Ryder internals? I'm not looking to get into much machining beyond cutting a loading port, if that's possible.

 

[cobalt327]

Thank you for the details, Terry- it definitely helps!! Fortunately I have a lot of springs here so I'm sure I can come up with something suitable. I'm excited to try my hand at fashioning one or two for my guns.

Even though he 'modular' trigger on the new guns is durable, the plastic trigger blade spoils it for me. I had thought about making a steel or brass trigger blade to replace the plastic blade, but thinking about it is as far as I got. One hurdle to that concept is that the plastic module is not meant to be disassembled. It's a shame Daisy didn't make the trigger like the Cowboy BB gun's trigger is made- with screws. What a concept, right? smh Jonathan did a video on disassembling the Daisy trigger, so it is doable using adhesive to hold it together after cutting it apart.

But it's all moot since you posted your 1-piece metal trigger template. Just too cool.

 

[cobalt327]

Hi all. Anyone know if its feasible to convert a Daisy 499 to a repeater with the current production Red Ryder internals? I'm not looking to get into much machining beyond cutting a loading port, if that's possible.

Yes, it's doable. Basically, the 499 shot tube, abutment, piston and spring would be replaced with like parts from a model 1938B Red Ryder. The 499 piston is replaced with the RR piston and air tube so it will work as a repeater with the 1-piece 1938B shot tube/abutment assembly. I'm not sure how the barrel length of the Red Ryder shot tube will work out installed into the 499. You'll want to come up with a way to mount the RR barrel plug/front sight, too. Or fabricate one.

 

[TerryCowger]

For full disclosure about the triggers, I want to let you all know that the M95 drawing is mine but the original billet trigger design for the Model 95 was made by Mr. Shane Bruce AKA RestomodDaisy, he sent me a blank, I reshaped, polished it and put a roller tip on it, then sent it back to him for his approval and testing.
I have talked with Shane and he is OK with posting the design for all to see and use.
I can tell you he does plan on adding the M95 triggers to his parts for sale list eventually.
The design for the 1938RR is mine and Shane has shown interest in it so I would imagine he will also offer them for sale sometime in the future.
Terry

 

[bark-eater]

Yes, it's doable. Basically, the 499 shot tube, abutment, piston and spring would be replaced with like parts from a model 1938B Red Ryder. The 499 piston is replaced with the RR piston and air tube so it will work as a repeater with the 1-piece 1938B shot tube/abutment assembly. I'm not sure how the barrel length of the Red Ryder shot tube will work out installed into the 499. You'll want to come up with a way to mount the RR barrel plug/front sight, too. Or fabricate one.

I think I'm going to order the parts from Daisy and make my own stocks. So to confirm, I can use the 499's trigger block and the rest of the 499's parts? I'm also wondering if it's worth ordering extra 1938B shot tubes to try and cherry pick a good one?

 

[cobalt327]

Having never done this, I am basing it on having installed a 499 abutment and ST into a 105B Buck, so the parts should fit in reverse. I'd expect there to be problems that have to be dealt with along the way.

The idea is basically to:

• Remove the 499 shot tube ass'y. and abutment, replace them with the '38B ST ass'y. I don't know how the 38B ST length will work out. Be sure the '38B abutment is installed into the gun with the BB loading slot and magnet at the top.
• Reuse the 499 trigger and plunger tube.
• Install the '38B spring, piston, wiper, air tube, reinforcement washer and retainer pin onto the 499 plunger tube.
• Fashion a barrel plug/front sight, possibly from a '38B front sight.
• Need a way to load BBs. One option is cutting a hole as you mentioned. Another is to make the front barrel plug/front sight removable for loading. Or, notch the barrel shroud and modify the barrel plug to be rotated to uincover the slot for loading. This was done briefly on the model 95 as it transitioned from the removable shot tube to the "non removable" ST of the 95B. See photo.

I would not bother cherry picking a '38B ST- they're all decent so there's not enough to be gained to be worth it, IMHO.

 

[bark-eater]

Thanks for the detailed response. Daisy is not selling the 499 receiver at this point, so I'll be keeping my eye out for a used 499.

Plan B:
I'm going to put a 499 spring and "Adult" stock and for arm on a 1938 I all ready have. I was thinking about the 499 inner barrel being shorter than the 1938's. If a BB is clear of the barrel before the mechanical end of the shot cycle, it won't be affected by the "twang". I'm not sure this would hold up to testing, but a second build based on a 105 buck, isn't out of the question. Related to that, I was thinking about adding weight to the "piston" to try and slow and smooth out the shot cycle.

 

[cobalt327]

If I can ask, what is your goal? If I knew exactly what you were hoping for, I may be able to offer an idea. For what it's worth, adding 1938B parts to a 499 will basically give you a 99B with a 499B trigger. And there are ways to improve the trigger pull of a Daisy with the plastic modular trigger.

 

[bark-eater]

The general goal is to build an accurate repeater with target sights. More specifically to build an unlimited class BB Biathlon gun. A new 99B would be pretty close. I'm definitely after repeatable accuracy, power is secondary.