Putting a little more power in a $15.00 Daisy

A 99B could be a good fit. The 99B suffers from an "iffy" shot tube. It uses the older seamed tubing, so accuracy might not be as good as it could be. The seamed tubing shot tubes often have bad, or even no crown. Even so, some shoot very accurately, but that's the exception not the rule. Fortunately, if needed the new seamless model 1938B shot tube fits the 99B just fine. I have a 99B with a seamless 1938B shot tube in it along with a high power spring, too. But if you were to substitute a 499B spring into it, the shot cycle would be very tame. The MV would be low, too, but that's the price one pays for good 5m accuracy. The 99B was not equipped with the anti beartrap mechanism which is a good thing for the trigger pull. Removing the rear return spring will lighten the pull, and with the trigger blade smoothed where the trigger finger contacts the blade will make it a nice trigger, well, at least for a Daisy BB gun.

If cost wasn't a factor, you can use the 499B buttstock with a curved lever on it, too.
 
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I've done a search on this thread and can't find anything on a Daisy PAL. It looks like a Buck woth no forearm and a plastic butt stock.

I bought it years ago for my girls (my youngest is now 50), and it has sat, unused for years. Now it only poops out a BB about 15 feet.

Is there any joy for my PAL?
 
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The Daisy Pal is a model 105, same as the Buck, but it was made before the Buck. And sure- you can repair your Pal, no problem. The first thing before buying anything or taking it apart is to oil it, if you haven't already. If that doesn't help, you may need to replace something. In any event, it will need to be disassembled so you can tell just what it needs if the oil doesn't help.

Here are three versions of the Pal:
105 PAL B.jpg
 
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I put a 499 spring in a Red Ryder and the velocity has dropped to the point that it seems like some thing is wrong. I ended up putting a lot of tacky grease on the spring, so that might be a problem, but I was wondering if I put it together incorrectly and have obstructed the air tube some how. I haven't shot it much yet, but the first shot I couldn't tell if it had actually fired. The initial accuracy seems good, but the gun is completely dead in the hand as it fires. It is having trouble penetrating a frozen sheet of card board right now.
 
The 499 spring in the uber efficient 499 gun only produces 240 fps, so when you put a 499 spring into a Red Ryder that is less efficient, plus add grease to the 499 spring (or any spring for that matter), the MV would be expected to drop significantly.

To try to put this into perspective, it's known that using a 1938B spring in a 499 will produce MV of 400-plus fps. The same spring in the less efficient 1938B does around 260 fps. Using that ratio, we'd expect the 499 spring in a 1938B to give around 170-180 fps- that's without any grease. This isn't an issue if a youngster was being taught to safely use a Daisy BB gun, especially if the child was young/small because the cocking effort will be manageable for most anyone, and in the event of an accidental discharge or even a ricochet, it would be much less likely to cause injury or damage to property.

Anyway, you could try removing all the grease and see how much the MV improves. If you can get by with less MV, apply a little grease and retest.

Good luck!

Mark
 
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The grease is "shooting in" a bit and MV seems to be coming up. Its also a lot warmer today, so I am concerned that the extra grease is a negative for a "biathlon" gun. I think I will shot it off a bench before I change anything. Off hand at 5 yards it is shooting around 1" with the factory sights. Any thoughts on how much spacer preload to start with to bump the MV a bit with out adding to much vibration to the shot cycle?
 
The grease is "shooting in" a bit and MV seems to be coming up. Its also a lot warmer today, so I am concerned that the extra grease is a negative for a "biathlon" gun. I think I will shot it off a bench before I change anything. Off hand at 5 yards it is shooting around 1" with the factory sights. Any thoughts on how much spacer preload to start with to bump the MV a bit with out adding to much vibration to the shot cycle?
You can try 1/2". I'd suggeat removing most of the grease. Even with a high powered pellet gun it doesn't take much grease to damp the spring vibration.
 
Should have quite while I was ahead.. 3 shots each circle which is a traced quarter. I was trying different grips. Where I place my thumb makes a huge difference in controlling the shots pull off to the right. Red Ryder with 499 spring and 12 mm bronze spacer. 5 yards, off hand, open sights and Hornady Black Diamond BBs.
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3 shot each target. Its definitely not the Indian.
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I'm afraid to check my math, but I managed to keep the groups well under an inch at 10 yards. I was not shooting well and there was some fudging with a "what the" flyer, an extra shot and only shooting 2 shots at 2 of the dots, so sitting back down and adding them. I can do better. But I think I'm there as far as putting the scope back on.

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I'd call that very good, especially considering I didn't do any better shooting Avanti BBs from a 499B!

age=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.crankshaftcoalition.com%2Fwiki%2Fimages%2Fb%2Fb6%2FDAISY_499_TARGET_1-13-17.jpg
 
Let's see if can get these PDF's to load ?
Here ya go (hopefully) ?
They are straight forward and simple to make and fit, I use 3/16" tubing to center them in the reciever just keep in mind the more power the gun has the stronger the trigger spring may need to be. I haven't put a roller on a 1938RR trigger as I dont know if there is enough room to do so. If anyone does please let me know.
Any questions just ask: Terry
1938BRRtrigger drawing2FINAL.pdf
M95Trigger3.0.pdf

Thank you for sharing this Terry. A friend of mine is looking at producing one on his CNC for me. Could you tell me what size the hole is for a scale reference?
 
It should be 3/16" but some may be metric?
I have another mod. that involves the plunger assy. that helps with the trigger sear plate lock into the trigger sear much better.
It involves putting a different angle on the plunger sear plate, it is very simple but a little time consuming.
It can be done with a Dremel and a good soldering gun or torch.
I will try to post some pictures ASAP.
My mother is in a very bad way and it's not looking good so please bear with me on the time line.
Thanks Terry
 
Wow! Great information on Daisys. As a newbie to the forum I have been tinkering with modifications on several of my old Daisys
but what I've read so far I have a lot to learn. My focus has been on customizing wood stocks for the old Daisy models (a little inspiration from Restomod). Looking forward to following everyone and picking up some pointers. I've inserted a few samples below.
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Well done, Terry! And the gun is a beauty!! It would be nice to hear a little about the various features as you panned around it. Like what wood you used, and a little about the artwork you applied to the finish. And maybe how it shoots, too. But regardless, there's no denying it's a great looking gun!
 
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Thanks for the kind words Mark,
Honestly I didn't think about describing the details as I went around it.
That's where experience making videos comes into play, every time I see a new video from Johnathan I'm amazed at how well they are done with the still pictures and the music along with the descriptions.
Shane Bruce also does a fantastic job of making videos.
I'll give it another try in a day or two, more descriptions and possible some shooting?
I do have a listing of the gun particulars in the YouTube description box.
Terry
 
Sorry that I missed the description box details- apparently I'm not good at watching videos, let alone actually MAKING one! haa But I'll go back and read about it, thanks.

One other thing- the polished aluminum lever really pops!
 
Thanks for the kind words Ratte, haven't heard from you in awhile hows your coming along?
Thanks Mark, but ya gotta read the fine print. LOL..............it's a brass cocking lever that I whittled out of a sheet of 1/4x3x12" brass plate. That was a bear to make, lots of wasted material also expensive cost me over 25.00 for that chunk of brass.
I like to think it came out OK.
here's a picture of the working parts, only stock parts are the spring and abutment seal (not shown).
Terry
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A little explanation of the parts may be in order?
In the picture all made in my little shop, roller tipped brass trigger, roller tipped brass cocking lever, machined plunger assy. It's split in the middle to put the spring in.
The plunger seal is a modified stock part screwed to the solid end of the plunger, I have a delrin washer at each end of the spring to allow it to rotate freely, I have one 1/8" metal washer on the sear end to help in assembly and disassembly no other spacers are used.
The barrel has a carbon fiber inner tube with a 10mm outer carbon fiber tube for streingh and to kill any bad vibes.
I machined the muzzle and breach so the barrel goes completely through them.
I have a magnet in the breach that is used as a BB stop and to hold it in place until shot.
The gun is a muzzle load single shot so it's not for rapid backyard plinking but it works very well for sneaking up on these Fla. lizards we have around here,
As it is now it shoots at 450fps and is accurate so I'm happy with it.
Terry
 
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Terry, I just noticed the YouTube comment I made to your video the same day that I posted here didn't "take" for some reason... weird. Anyway, just now I commented again and took the liberty of including a link to your post here that shows the beautiful work you did on the internal parts of the gun. If you would prefer I not do that, I'll remove the link- no problem whatsoever.

By the way, I have an email on the way to you.
 
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