Question for S&W Know alls.

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vzenmn

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I have a 22/32Target that belonged to my Great Great Grandad. Not sure of the date it was made but he bought it in the late 40s or early 50s. It has been well used in the past 50 some odd years. Lately I have noticed that when I cock the gun slowly the cylinder stops just a few thousands of an inch short of allowing the cylinder hand to set in the notch. but when I cock the hammer fast it works fine.

Anybody know what is going on there?

Before I take Old Gramps to a gunsmith to get overhauled would it be a good idea to take the side plate off and see if the problem could be 50- 60 years of crud build up or should I leave that to a gunsmith?

And the most important question. Who do I have work on it?

Is there any Gunsmiths in east Texas that know how to deal with S&W and what about shipping it to its birthplace in Springfield Mass?

I am a little paranoid about who touches this gun sense there are at least 4 people in my family who will beat me and hang me from the highest oak tree in the county if something happens to it.
 
Alright, let's think about this a second. It stops short of locking up if you cock the hammer slowly but when you cock it quickly, it locks up.

My guess is that your hand is probably worn out. It's not so worn out that that it won't turn the cylinder but it's not reaching all the way. That's why it will still lock up if you cock it fast, that little extra bit of momentum gets the cylinder into place.

Or it could be crud. Or none of that. I'm no gunsmith. Hope you get it fixed.
 
Agreed with Feanaro, the hand is probably in less than perfect condition and most likely causing the timing issue.

Get a GS, don't know about any in Texas but I'm sure there are some good ones.
 
This should be a pretty cheap fix.

Smith & Wesson used to have an authorized service center in every region, most of whom did excellent work that was factory warranted. S&W's customer service center will be able to tell you if there is one in your area. Otherwise just send it to 1200 Roosevelt Ave., Springfield Mass for service. Either way, this shouldn't cost you much, and you won't have to worry about the quality of the work.
 
Before you jump off the deep end, try loading it with the ammo you want to shoot , and then cycling the action, some times the weight of the loaded cylinder will carry enough inertia to spin the cylinder into lock up.

Also if you think about it the revolver is not designed to operate in the manner you described, it should be cocked with authority!

There are cylinder hands available from sources that come in different lengths. It is an easy job to replace these on S&W's, the only problem might be finding one for the 32cal frame that one was built on.

Another alternative is peening the original. With careful peening of the long portion of the hand it will lengthen from the stretching of the metal, this can be done cold, and try not to peen the actual portion that engages the cylinder or the area of the pin.
 
I don't know of any in East Texas but Elk Castle in west Ft. Worth just fixed a similar issue on a model 57 of mine. There is joy in Muddville, I had about given up on finding anyone that returned a firearm in better condition than I had left it.

S&W is a good option - I was actually going to send mine in but I procrastinated myself right into a local fix. Makes a good day trip from the Tyler area - nice excuse to stop at the Beretta Gallery in Dallas to gawk at stuff.
 
Your "Old Gramps" is worn out and unsafe to shoot or to even hold it for that matter. You had best send it to me and I will see that it is properly disposed of. ;)

But seriously as has already been stated it is probably just dirty or has a worn hand. The first is easy to check and to remedy, the second is not very expensive to get fixed. My advise is to clean it and if the problem does not go away, send it back to S&W for repair. They will fix it right, do it fast and will not charge a lot for their service.
 
Thanks.
Can anybody know were I can get step by step instructions on how to take it apart. I have an old P.O Ackley book that tells how to do it but I am a visual learner and the book doesn't have many pictures.
 
Go to the midwayusa.com homepage. On the right side there's a gunsmith locator. I just plugged in the ZIP for Crockett - where I used to live - and it gave a shop in Marquez, Tyler, and then all the way near Houston. I seem to recall a shop in Buffalo, but I don't remember if it was sales only or if it was 'smithing, too.

Good luck!

Q
 
You could also try the Kuhnhausen Manual. Very detailed, and considered by many to be the standard.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=314178


Personally, I'd be very hesitant to take it apart, especially if...
there are at least 4 people in my family who will beat me and hang me from the highest oak tree in the county if something happens to it.
Click to expand...

I don't think one has to be superhuman to take a DA revolver apart. Putting it back together, though, may be a whole 'nuther story. :scrutiny:

If you do decide to take off the sideplate to have a look-see, don't pry it off!! There's a correct way to do it! Look it up. Also, use the correct gunsmithing screwdrivers, or you will bugger up a screw or 2!.

IMO, the safest & wisest thing to do is to send it to S&W.
 
I have 4 of them and...

Smith & Wesson will not work on a gun of that vintage. The problem is the hand and/or ratchet,(extractor) is worn. The cure is to replace the hand, if you can find 1, or have a competent knowledgeable gunsmith work on peening the ratchet heads, (not the hand) and refit the extractor. Sometimes, plating or soldering a shim to the hand and refitting can work. I sugest you try to find a replacement part from the guys at smith-wessonforum.com in the pre 1945 section. The Kuhnhausen book is "the" source for information on maintinence. Post the Ser# and a description and the DOB can be determined. Brad P,S. you might try Alex Hamilton at 10ring precision there in Texas to work on it or suggest someone who can. Parts availability are you bigest problem.
 
VZ,

If you are going to do it yerself, pickup a set of TRUE gunsmith type screwdrivers, you will not regret the purchase as these will serve you in all firearm related repair. They are the only type that fit the screw slots in guns and will keep you from damaging the screw slots or from slipping out and marring the surface of the revolver.
On an old piece like your grandads, take the time to give the screws a soaking of KROIL, a penetrating oil that will loosen corrosion and make dissambly easier.

WWW.MIDWAYUSA.COM or BROWNELLS may be your source for tools and parts
Good luck
 
Although they have their differences, S&W and Colt also have similarities, and this happened to my Grandaddy's Colt. A gunsmith at Colt advised me they do not have parts for this vintage gun, and talked me through the process of "stretching " the hand. That was 18 years ago, and it still works fine.
Dirt and crud do not change tolerances where there should be zero slop. Do not depend on momentum, fix that gun, and now.
 
thanks again.

I am going to get right on it. What is a good screwdriver set to buy without breaking the bank. I don't think I will fix it myself but I do need a good screwdriver set anyway.

Would Model 34 parts fit on it? It has a wire spring mainspring and the serial # is 236** if that helps.

http://www.e-gunparts.com/productschem.asp?chrMasterModel=1980z34
If so I am thinking of getting a Hand Torsion Spring as well. Would it be wise to get a over sized hand?

I'm also going to register on a S&W forum and ask them to.
 
Pre-war 22/32 Hand Ejectors are Ser.# from 160000-536684 and date from 1911-1941. Post war Model of 1953 22/32 Target #'s range from 101-135465 and date from 1953-1969. Yours, based on the # given, dates between 1955 (# 11000) and 1959 (#52673) Mine, #ed 185XX dated to 1955 so yours should be shipped later. No one makes O/S hands for yours. Ron Powers markets O/S hands for K,L& M frame only however, you might find a hand floating around somewhere. You need to remove it and measure it's width as a base to look for something thicker. Will advise more later. Brad
 
Try Jack First

Check with Jack First Gun Shop for the part you need (jackfirstgun.com). Second choice to check with would be Numrich/Gun Parts Corp. Jack First bought a large proportion of the remaining spare parts from S&W several years ago, when Smith foolishly got out of the business of supplying repair parts for their own classic products. :fire: It is my understanding that they will also do some repairs on older revolvers.
 
Call SW

vzenmn: Lastly; how about giving SW a call; see about Recondition or what ever they call it.
Ask if they will return all replaced parts; cause this is my Grandfathers and you would like to have all original parts.
Ruger would give you a close extimate. Know nothing about SW
Follow up when you can. Thanks
 
DSC_0347.jpg
Here is a view of the hand. The dimension in question is the width. A wider one is needed to correct the problem, but it is not necessarly a drop in fit. S&W Will repair/restore guns from 1958 or newer depending on parts.Thers are a lot of sources to google besides Jack First,(a good place to try) Try these [email protected] or [email protected]. Jim Stroh @ alpha precision in Ga. is another suggested gunsmith. Brad
 
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