Range Report - Consumable paper cartridges for '58 Rem

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Omnivore

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I made up about 75 cartridges using Zig-Zag "1 & 1/4" rolling papers. The standard size papers were a bit difficult to wrap around the .457 balls I use in the Remmie and the 1 & 1/4 size is really easy. I read through a lot of the thread on the subject, and I wanted to try the consumables. Not having ready access to the KNO3, I took a small sample of BP, put it in a small shot glass with some water and heated it (yes-- I put black powder in the microwave, but it was at the bottom of a glass of water and it was a very small sample)

Letting that settle out and dry over a few days, I got a nice clean sample of KN03 crystals around the glass, with all the carbon at the bottom. Where the sulfur ends up, whether it also dissolves or stays with the carbon, I have no idea. Maybe you chemists can tell me.

I laid out the papers in a food dehydrator and brushed them with a solution of the KNO3 and water. They take only a few minutes to dry.

I made about 75 cartridges with the treated paper and several with un-treated paper as a control. 30 grains FFF and .457 ball. I was rolling them by twisting both ends and cutting as flush as I could with scissors. A form is used to get a tapered paper tube. Ball at the large end, stuffed in tight, powder at the small end, so they look like icecream cones when finished. That makes them plunk right down into the Remmie chambers.

At the range I started with six shots of the treated cartridges. All fired without a hitch. Loading consists of ramming in the cartridge and topping the cylinder with Bore Butter. There were a few little flakes of paper left in a cylinder or two.

Then a cylinder full of the un-treated cartridges. Every other shot was a missfire. Two of the chambers would not fire after capping three times and poking through with a nipple pick. Had to remove the nipples and scratch the paper. Still only one of the problem chambers fired. Looking at the removed nipple on the remaining chamber, there was a very tight wad of paper jammed into it, and it was impossible to push it out either direction with a pick. I tried powder inside the nipple three times and that fiinally cleared it out enough to fire.

Next came about 40 shots using the consumables again. Nary a single hitch. All fired with no perceptable delay, just as with loose powder.

I then tried at 25 yards shooting NRA 25 yd slow fire targets, 'cause I'd not fired this new-ish gun for accuracy. Standing, two-hands, my best score out of three seperate five shot groups was 20 of a possible 50. I've done much better with the Pietta Colt, but this Remmie is considerably heavier and its trigger has more creep.

Also noticed that the rounded, polished Remmie front sight has glare on the top, even on an overcast day. If I'd been thinking, I'd have whipped out the Zippo and given it the carbon black treatment (I've done that on the brass front sight for the Colt, and it can really help in some conditions).

Cleaning it after all this, there was a considerable amount of little paper bits in the water, and one nipple had one of those paper plugs in it. However, not one of the treated cartridges failed to fire normally.

Conclusion: Treating your paper with KNO3 disolved from BP works (at least to some extent-- I've never tried using pure KNO3) and it's easy. Rolling the cartridges by tightly twisting the back (nipple end) of the paper is probably not the best way to go. After all is said and done, the time it takes to make the cartridges, compared to the time it saves on the range, is a matter of opinion as to whether it's worth it. It is interesting, but as a purely practical matter; that will depend on one's priorities. Shooting BP guns isn't purely practical in the first place. It's just fun!

Addendum: I should mention that when reloading, I was concerned that one of those little flakes of paper could still be burning. I found myself loitering a bit and checking the chamber before dropping another cartridge in and ramming it home. Having a full load like that go off while ramming could be, uh, nasty. But then, loading from a flask and having a live ember in the chamber could be unpleasant as well.
 
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another way is also to disolve some smokeless powder in alcohol and paint it on the paper.

from what i have heard it works just as well.
 
You can get potassium nitrate at some drugstores. My mom bought some a few years back to make corned venison (which, by the way, was DELICIOUS!). Check around!
 
Does anyone sell actual cartridge paper? How about 'Flash' paper, from a magic or fireworks supply site? Would it be sturdy enough to make cartridges?
 
Potassium nitrate is easily available at most Wal Mart or Home Depot stores in the outdoor garden department. It is sold as "stump-remover" usually in one pound cans. Just as we would use it to nitrate paper for consumable cartridges it is used to nitrate tree stumps so they can be burned to ash even underground. Around 5 bucks most places.

I disolve three heaping tablespoons of K2NO4 in a half-cup of HOT water to make a nearly saturated solution. I use this solution to make slow match for my matchlock arquebus and cannons as well. I dip my cartridge papers (9 pound "onionskin" or airmail paper) in this and lay flat on a cookie sheet until dry. There are some loose crystals on the paper after it dries, but I simply wipe these off with my fingers when rolling it over the tapered mandrel.

My cartridges come almost to a point and are slightly longer than the chamber. I am careful to leave a very small pigtail on the ignition end. Being slightly longer and narrower than the chamber allows the cartridge to burst near the bottom when the ball is seated to compress the powder. This all but eliminates hang and missfires.
 
Cigarette paper makes excellent cartridge paper. They are available at your nearest smoke shop.

I always use them.

I tried the papers from Dixie too. They both work well.
 
Also, for surefire ignition, grind up some BP into a real fine sand, about 2-3 grains, and spread those along the base of the cartridge. After that, load your regular charge and projectile over it.

When the cap fires, it will instantly ignite the fine powder at the base of the cartridge, more surface area, means easier to fire. The resulting flash from both primer and primer powder should ignite even the most problematic loads.
 
Don't twist the bottom end but fold-it.
The "centered" twisted paper is just in front/inside the nipples, that mean at least 1/8" of compressed paper that is able (easily) to stop the primer ignition. Even with cigarette paper.
With folded end, you got 4 or 6 thickness of paper, easily pierced by primer.
When I recover some papers from my chambers I often found a bottom with a nice centered hole about 1/8" with burned edge.

That's for misfire.
Nitrated paper will reduce amount of unburnt paper (not already tried)
 
"Does anyone sell actual cartridge paper? How about 'Flash' paper, from a magic or fireworks supply site? Would it be sturdy enough to make cartridges?"
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DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE FLASH PAPER IN A BLACKPOWDER GUN!!! "FLASH PAPER" IS NITROCELLULOSE - PAPER TREATED WITH NITRIC ACID. IN OTHER WORDS, IT'S SMOKELESS POWDER!!!. USING IT IN A BLACKPOWDER GUN IS A DISASTER WAITING TO HAPPEN!!!
 
I use CCI 10s also, 'cause that's what's available here. I hear remington caps are better, but no one around here seems to stock them. I'd have to order some.

The difference between your experience and mine is probably due to the rolling technique and/or the papers. My problem with untreated paper was that the twisted bundle at the end of the paper was getting blasted into the nipples, forming a rock-hard plug, or never allowing ignition in the first place. Another possible variable is that the "1 & 1/4" size Zig-Zags I was using that day were designated "slow burning". Treated with nitrate, they were 100%, but untreated they were a disaster.

Some here on THR have folded, rather than twisted, the back end of the cartridge. That would seem to be the better method. I'll try it next time, but first I have another 80 or so of these nitrated cartridges to burn.

I also loaded some "powder only" cartridges for my Colt repro. I've had a bitch of time loading full cartridges into the Colt, so I figured I'd try just a nitrated, pre-measured powder load, feeding the ball separately by hand. I've yet to try those.
 
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