Re-enforce window or replace door?

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Marlin60Man

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My back door has one of those little windows up on the top half of it. I really don't like this, because I feel like if anyone wanted to force their way in, all they'd have to do is break the window and unlock the door from the outside.

I'm wondering if I should try replacing the whole door or try to get some of that steel lattice stuff to put behind it and re-enforce the glass. Seems like a door would be more expensive.

I want to get some bars for the windows too, but I don't think the matriarch of the house would agree with that decor. Is there any other way to secure your windows?
 
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Several companies make a film that goes on your windows that render them largely shatter proof. Also you can get metal window screen mesh, it looks just like normal screen until you get close to it. It's pretty much hand tool proof.

-Jenrick
 
All the suggestions here sound really good. As a lesser option, you could also use a barrier that goes under the door handle to prevent its opening.
 
Don't focused on just the window. If your door isn't installed with the reinforcing kit, that most guys just toss out, a firm kick will open it right up.

Spend a few minutes putting in 3" screws in the hinges and 3" screws behind the strike plate and dead bolt. These should be "Hardened" screws. 3" drywall screws are better than nothing..... (Be carefull not to drive the screws in so hard that they change the way the door opens/shuts) Also, don't make the door impossible to get OUT if there is a fire. I don't like double keyed dead-bolts for just that reason....

It's easy to get caught up in reinforcing everything, which helps. But in my opinion you should make them break-in, in a well lit area and force them to make a lot of noise.
 
You could replace the window with Lexan or Polycarbonate,expensive but near impossible to break. When Lexan first came out a big league basball pitcher tried to break a sheet of Lexan by throwing fast balls at it. I think he gave up after 25 or 30 pitches.
 
I have a door like this in my utility room, I put a deadbolt that requires a key for both sides. The key is handy but no where near close enough that someone could reach it.
 
Ditto the three inch screws in the striker plate and hinges. Also the keyed deadbolt. When you are home, just leave it in the lock. Remove when you go to bed....chris3
 
I vote for setting up a metal grating in the window and replacing the door with a security door. Also, a good strong lock is essential.
 
Most of my doors with windows in them have double cylinder deadbolts. You can keep a key nearby to open it from the inside in case of emergency. The keys I use for this purpose can ONLY open the door from the inside, so if someone in my home were to take the key they wouldn't be able to get in with it.
 
That stuff you stick on to the glass, what would prevent them from just punching the entire window loose with a crow bar? Might take a little while longer, but it doesn't seem keeping the window from shattering will keep them from getting their grubby arm through.

The double-key dead bolt sounds like a good plan, I hadn't thought of that. I've had a few home invasions in the past though and already took care of the door being kicked in, since that's generally how I remember it being done. What's the point of fortifying the door if they can just bust the window out though? That was a rhetorical question btw...
 
Several companies make a film that goes on your windows that render them largely shatter proof. Also you can get metal window screen mesh, it looks just like normal screen until you get close to it. It's pretty much hand tool proof.

-Jenrick
As a firefighter I have had experience with these window film enhancments. We had a small fire in a business that had these films installed. The window that we gained entry through was only marginally harder to break and when it did the entire window glass popped out in one peice.
 
Don't remove the key at night

ball3006
Ditto the three inch screws in the striker plate and hinges. Also the keyed deadbolt. When you are home, just leave it in the lock. Remove when you go to bed....chris3

Negatory on removing the key when you go to bed. Leave the key in the (inside) lock at all times when you are home, so as to facilitate your egress in case of fire. You'll just have to depend on your other security devices/practices should someone try to attack that door while you're home.

The door from my rear deck is as described. Its first line of defense is a screen door that opens out and is secured with a hook and eye. Then there's the door, with a keyed deadbolt and a Lexan window. When I leave the house, there's also a 2x4 across the doorframe inside.

Nobody is busting in through that door, at least not without considerable time, effort and noise. And when I'm home (and occasionally when I'm not) there's a 110 lb. GSD to announce when anyone approaches the house (in addition to motion-activated floodlights). I'm prepared to take things from there.

Also, all my ground floor and basement windows have wooden bars across them on the outside. The bars are not especially obtrusive, but they'll certainly slow down anyone wanting to enter or exit that way.

None of these anti-burglary measures was very expensive (other than the dog).
 
If you apply the laminate, leave from 1/16 to 1/8 gap from the edge. That will allow for expansion and contraction. If you don't, the window can crack. We had that happen to one building.
 
A double keyed lock works fine just don't put them on all of your doors, due to fire concerns. Or replace the door with a metal clad wooden core type without the window. Do what makes you feel comfortable. Lights, alarms, dead bolt locks, all of these things can be bypassed. You just need to do enough to make it a P.I.T.A. so it is not worth the effort to a criminal. I used to work for a physical security company years ago if you want more specific advise p.m. me. I don't like to post in depth advise because dishonest folks could use it to help them break into places.
 
Your concerned about a possible break in, a safety issue but think replacing the door would be expensive. Then you mention
 
Your concerned about a possible break in, a safety issue but think replacing the door would be expensive. Then you mention "wanting to get steel bars for the windows." I`d re-think that one. Hate to be inside if a fire starts.
Go for a solid door,wood/metal. Safety is not cheap!
A better question, what kind of neighborhood do you live in where you
need fortress like protection ?
 
One thing I'd add about window film is I had two companies come out to price it out, and both said it does not work properly unless you include an "attachment system", essentially an extremely wide application of a special caulk that covers at least 1/4" (and preferably 1/2") of both the glass and the door frame. I ended up bypassing window film altogether as I didn't want the unsightly attachment system on my windows. Ymmv, but something to be aware of as apparently some installers will try to sell you on the film even if you don't want the attachment system, which apparently has little value on it's own.
 
Why NOT make your home a fortress??

Sav .250:
A better question, what kind of neighborhood do you live in where you need fortress like protection ?

I happen to think that, when it comes to one's home, hardening the target is a wise move no matter where one lives.

When I was in the security biz, we had a hard time convincing people (especially in suburban or rural areas) that property crime gravitates to the area of least resistance. But then they saw it happen; folks who had bragged that "around here folks don't even have to lock their doors" saw the exponential increase in rural burglary in the late '70s -- early '80s.

I also grow weary of those who say, "If you live in a neighborhood where you have to have bars on your windows, just move!" If you have that luxury, good for you, but the reality is that for most folks it's just not that easy, practical or affordable.

Plus there are many folks who are admirably committed to maintaining stability in their neighborhoods, resisting crime and helping to prevent further deterioration into lawlessness.
 
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My last rental house had this issue on the front door, and a basement attached to the porch with no locks whatsoever in the back.

I threw steel bands on the non-secure door and locked it with 2 padlocks, landlord approved on that.

At my request they installed the steel lattice on the front door when the next door neighbor's house was robbed. ( I was picking my kid up from preschool when It happened, came home to a flood of police in the street)

The police caught the kids, (the neighbors on the other side of his house from me!) they got in by pushing a Built-in AC unit into the house, then crawled in through the hole.


I prefer Better doors and reinforced doorways, good window locks. they don't overtly show an effort to fortify the house.
 
Several companies make a film that goes on your windows that render them largely shatter proof. Also you can get metal window screen mesh, it looks just like normal screen until you get close to it. It's pretty much hand tool proof.

-Jenrick

It's called shatter resistant film and you can buy varying grades for installation yourself or though a contractor. Best to apply to both sides.

To prevent the entire pane from being popped-out, you use a special caulk to seal the edge of the film directly to the window frame. When it cures, you will need to rip the entire frame out of the wall or door if you want to defeat it.
 
Double keyed locks. I researched this when my late father had this issue & I was very concerned that in a fire, he wouldn't be able to get to the key. I told my father that a fire was more likely than a home invasion. After I researched it, I learned I was in fact wrong about that. Statistics showed that home invasion was more statistically likely than a home fire. Sorry, can't recall where I got that info.

I think double keyed deadbolts are the best answer with the key placed nearby on a hook or velcro pad. This pad or hook should be close to the door, but out of sight from the door... within 5 feet. It needs to be low - 3 ft off the floor as the homeowner may be crawling to escape fumes.
 
If you apply the laminate, leave from 1/16 to 1/8 gap from the edge. That will allow for expansion and contraction. If you don't, the window can crack. We had that happen to one building.

But won't doing so leave the window prone to cracking at the edges if striked and falling away from the force applied?
 
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