Recommend for the Smoothies Modern Double Action! (Not Korth - too expensive)

So, you finally picked it up.

Those grips will help you shoot it better and keep the
gun from skewing around in your hand.

As to trigger pull, since don't know just what you
consider a smooth pull, I'd just say that most any modern revolver
can also be "slicked up" for the same feel.

Remember a very light trigger pull is not necessarily
a good thing if in DA you tend to short stroke it, that is
attempt pulling the trigger before it is totally reset
after firing.

By the way, it was the gun I pointed out to you more
than once.

Regarding triggers and new guns, today I picked up a
factory new Ruger GP100 with 4-inch barrel. The trigger
is smooth and comes in at an average of 10 pounds weight.
I consider it ideal right out of the box. (Easy enough to
bring that weight down to 8 pounds with a new trigger
return spring if I so wished.)
 
Last edited:
UncleEd said:
So, you finally picked it up.

Those grips will help you shoot it better and keep the
gun from skewing around in your hand.

As to trigger pull, since don't know just what you
consider a smooth pull, I'd just say that most any modern revolver
can also be "slicked up" for the same feel.

Remember a very light trigger pull is not necessarily
a good thing if in DA you tend to short stroke it, that is
attempt pulling the trigger before it is totally reset
after firing.

By the way, it was the gun I pointed out to you more
than once.
Click to expand...
The rubber grips fit my hands just right, ugly as everything but help with the DA pull.

I’m going to ask my gun shop for local recommendations fir a slick-up job for a modern gun.

Yes you pointed out to buy this gun a few times.. THANKS! I can’t take a hint if it was under my nose!
 
NIGHTLORD40K said:
Very nice!
I keep mine mostly because its pretty. Not so much fun to shoot with the Magna grips. Certainly not with .357s.....

Cant bring myself to put rubber on it, doe- Ive got plenty of other Smiths for actual shooting, lol.
Click to expand...
Oooh yeah! A member gave me some original wood grips and I’ll put to on to see how it shoots compare to the rubber grips
 
Mark, since you seem to prefer Smiths but want to
keep the older guns as basically safe queens, then
I suggest you consider a new S&W 686 with 4-inch
barrel. And if you do get one (it's an L frame rather
than a K like the Model 19) I suggest you just start
shooting it before turning to any gunsmithing
or slicking up. You might be surprised by the
trigger after a box or two of ammo.
 
UncleEd said:
Mark, since you seem to prefer Smiths but want to
keep the older guns as basically safe queens, then
I suggest you consider a new S&W 686 with 4-inch
barrel. And if you do get one (it's an L frame rather
than a K like the Model 19) I suggest you just start
shooting it before turning to any gunsmithing
or slicking up. You might be surprised by the
trigger after a box or two of ammo.
Click to expand...
I’m saving my nickels and dimes for a 686! was at the shop picking up the 19 and didn’t even try any of there nice guns!
 
OK, I've suggested Mark get a new S&W Model 686 since
he seems to favor the Smith guns.

BUT, I do hope if he sees one new or used that he consider
also the Ruger GP100 with 4.2-inch barrel and adjustable
sights or the Ruger GP100 with 3-inch barrel, fixed sights.

The Rugers are direct competitors of the Smith 686s. While
the Rugers have a few more sharp edges, I've found that
their triggers are equal to or can easily be made equal to
any Smith. I've also found that the out-of-the box smoothness
of the triggers is about equal.

I personally prefer the cylinder release setup on the Ruger as well.
Note that the six shot "586" speed loaders fit Smith and Ruger.

Checking one of the biggest online dealers, no CC fee, I
found the Ruger 4.2 incher is $775 while the S&W 4.2 incher
is $919, a $144 difference.

And Ruger does have the reputation for the best customer
service and it is prompt.
 
I've got a set of those Altamont "Roper" grips. They look great, but for shooting I rate them as "OK" at best.

For shooting it's hard to beat those Pachmayr "Grippers", I think they're called, on that Model 19. I had a set on a Ruger Security-Six many years ago...Back when we took the factory grips off and threw them away and put Pachmayr's on before leaving the gun store. Tossed the box and papers at the same time. (Where's that "headbanger" emoji when I need it?)
 
UncleEd said:
OK, I've suggested Mark get a new S&W Model 686 since
he seems to favor the Smith guns.

BUT, I do hope if he sees one new or used that he consider
also the Ruger GP100 with 4.2-inch barrel and adjustable
sights or the Ruger GP100 with 3-inch barrel, fixed sights.

The Rugers are direct competitors of the Smith 686s. While
the Rugers have a few more sharp edges, I've found that
their triggers are equal to or can easily be made equal to
any Smith. I've also found that the out-of-the box smoothness
of the triggers is about equal.

I personally prefer the cylinder release setup on the Ruger as well.
Note that the six shot "586" speed loaders fit Smith and Ruger.

Checking one of the biggest online dealers, no CC fee, I
found the Ruger 4.2 incher is $775 while the S&W 4.2 incher
is $919, a $144 difference.

And Ruger does have the reputation for the best customer
service and it is prompt.
Click to expand...
I actually have more Colt Revolver then Smith, I can’t really tell the difference yet because I bought all of them this year. I do like Ruger Guns! #1’s, autoloaders, 5.7… but don’t have a Ruger revolver yet.

is the SP101 as good as the GP?
 
CajunBass said:
I've got a set of those Altamont "Roper" grips. They look great, but for shooting I rate them as "OK" at best.

For shooting it's hard to beat those Pachmayr "Grippers", I think they're called, on that Model 19. I had a set on a Ruger Security-Six many years ago...Back when we took the factory grips off and threw them away and put Pachmayr's on before leaving the gun store. Tossed the box and papers at the same time. (Where's that "headbanger" emoji when I need it?)
Click to expand...
those Pachmaryr grips feel GOOD! but I would never wear those work boots out! Need to put some high heels on the girl
 
Its interesting to read this thread and see how many S&W 686 owners do an action job. I hesitate to jump in because I'm a Rugerfile and this forum isn't very receptive to Ruger revolvers. Admittedly Rugers need an action job too. I bought a 4" GP100 back in the early 90s. Did a trigger job and swapped the springs. The DA and SA triggers are nice now. I shoot DA with my SRH, GP100, SP100 and LCR and don't have any trouble with the trigger. Almost never shoot a DA revolver in SA mode. I have SBH and BH revolvers for that.
 
P89DCSS said:
Its interesting to read this thread and see how many S&W 686 owners do an action job. I hesitate to jump in because I'm a Rugerfile and this forum isn't very receptive to Ruger revolvers. Admittedly Rugers need an action job too. I bought a 4" GP100 back in the early 90s. Did a trigger job and swapped the springs. The DA and SA triggers are nice now. I shoot DA with my SRH, GP100, SP100 and LCR and don't have any trouble with the trigger. Almost never shoot a DA revolver in SA mode. I have SBH and BH revolvers for that.
Click to expand...
I do have to apologize for not talking about Ruger Revolvers.
 
Mark_Mark said:
is the SP101 as good as the GP?
Click to expand...
Yes but the trigger doesn't have as much leverage as the GP100 so it's a little stiffer. In my experience, GP100s have a decent trigger out of the box and an action job makes them smoother. My SP100s needed work if a nice trigger is desired.
 
MrBorland said:
...My 65 is one of those rare gems which has a trigger I don't think can be improved upon, so I left it stock. Even with a stock trigger pull weight, it's a joy to shoot.
Click to expand...
My no-dash 686 is like that. I truly do not think its 6.5# D/A pull could be any smoother or better weighted. My shooting friends and I have compared it over the years to their Pythons (I don't recall if we've had two or three of them side-by-side), and they were very clearly not as smooth. Not very close, actually, when you get down to the scale of "niceness" levels of these triggers. The next best we encountered were some other Smiths. This particular 686 was very nice when I got it from my friend in about 1986, then I did a very little polishing work on it, re-profiled the main spring and a couple other minor things. To my hands and preferences, I really think it has as perfect a trigger pull as perfect as a D/A revolver could be (S/A is 2.3#). Others may have different preferences, but this one really does it for me and makes the gun a joy to shoot.
 
Last edited:
P89DCSS said:
Its interesting to read this thread and see how many S&W 686 owners do an action job. I hesitate to jump in because I'm a Rugerfile and this forum isn't very receptive to Ruger revolvers. Admittedly Rugers need an action job too. I bought a 4" GP100 back in the early 90s. Did a trigger job and swapped the springs. The DA and SA triggers are nice now. I shoot DA with my SRH, GP100, SP100 and LCR and don't have any trouble with the trigger. Almost never shoot a DA revolver in SA mode. I have SBH and BH revolvers for that.
Click to expand...
For me, all of my Smith (and the one Colt) revolvers have had nice actions from the factory (except that the K-22 is a bit heavy, which is kinda necessary in a .22 LR, and I've left it alone), but if they're stock, they can almost always be made even better, IMO. Neither of my 686s NEEDED to be better, just that I prefer them that way. Come to think if it, I believe my Winchester 52, which came to me with an aftermarket trigger in it, is the only rifle or handgun (of the 100 or so total), that I've owned that I didn't want to improve the trigger, either a little, or a lot. I really like a trigger that I really like. :)
 
My Python was sent to the Custom Shop around '80 for an action job.
Its pretty decent.
However, I wish it had a wide smooth trigger of a Smith 629.
Even on my Smiths I rounded the edges of the trigger.
The Python is rounded edge, but narrow and grooved and just don't like the feel of it.
But I only shoot it SA, as its 6" and just a target/hunting gun IMHO.
 
SteadyD said:
The Kimber K6s sure has a smooth trigger but I wouldn’t want to launch 357 out of it all day. Or even more than a few minutes!
Click to expand...

The trouble with .357 "belly guns" is that they are extremely
harsh in recoil and blast. You just have to accept that you
train minimally with it and expect that powerful round to
do the job if you need it---on the first shot.

As a now passed away gun writer wrote probably 30
or more years ago, no matter how many times he'd
shot heavy recoiling handguns, he always suffered a
flinch, especially after the first shot.

For the vast majority of shooters, repeat a vast majority,
the .38 in a decently heavy revolver or a 9mm in a
decently heavy auto, is what usually works best. Again.
for most.

The guru of the Model 19 S&W .357, Bill Jordan, who was a big man
with huge hands, said quite rightly that the .38 was the
sweet spot for the average shooter. Note, just because
you shoot a lot doesn't mean you are above average.
No demeaning intended for anyone.

The real test is the followup shots which
are probably needed what with the inadequacy of any
handgun cartridge.

I found in "rapid" .357 fire the Ruger GP 100 Match Champion
with its "custom" Hogue wood grip works best for me. especially
in followup shots. The Hogue rubber grips without finger
groves also gets me there.
 
UncleEd said:
The trouble with .357 "belly guns" is that they are extremely
harsh in recoil and blast. You just have to accept that you
train minimally with it and expect that powerful round to
do the job if you need it---on the first shot.

As a now passed away gun writer wrote probably 30
or more years ago, no matter how many times he'd
shot heavy recoiling handguns, he always suffered a
flinch, especially after the first shot.

For the vast majority of shooters, repeat a vast majority,
the .38 in a decently heavy revolver or a 9mm in a
decently heavy auto, is what usually works best. Again.
for most.

The guru of the Model 19 S&W .357, Bill Jordan, who was a big man
with huge hands, said quite rightly that the .38 was the
sweet spot for the average shooter. Note, just because
you shoot a lot doesn't mean you are above average.
No demeaning intended for anyone.

The real test is the followup shots which
are probably needed what with the inadequacy of any
handgun cartridge.

I found in "rapid" .357 fire the Ruger GP 100 Match Champion
with its "custom" Hogue wood grip works best for me. especially
in followup shots. The Hogue rubber grips without finger
groves also gets me there.
Click to expand...
anything with Bill Jordan, Layne Simpson, Elmer Keith, Roy Jinks, Jeff Cooper….. and the gang ~ touched will be worth (is worth) tons for $$$$ for the new upcoming millennial collectors. They got the $$$$ and finally can collect American relics of a long ago era
 
A 4" GP100/ 686 is hardly a belly gun. Recoil isn't too bad with full house 357mag loads. BTW, GP100 and 686 weigh the same (within a ounce).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Mark_Mark
Thoughts on a Modern S&W model 17
2 3
Replies
72
Views
2K
Mark_Mark
Mark_Mark
KarateHottie93
  • Locked
Why do so many people dislike the new snake guns?
2 3
Replies
69
Views
4K
silvermane_1
silvermane_1
mdrisc85
  • Locked
.357 Single Action Advice
2 3
Replies
53
Views
4K
flyingtiger85
flyingtiger85
Mr. Mosin
  • Locked
Today's Investigation
2
Replies
32
Views
2K
UncleEd
U
C
  • Locked
Ultimate Single-Action for CCW
2 3 4
Replies
86
Views
6K
Vern Humphrey
V
Back
Top