Recommend for the Smoothies Modern Double Action! (Not Korth - too expensive)

[Jim Watson]

I shot IDPA with a guy campaigning a 3” GP with magnums.
Manly, yeah, that’s it, manly blast and recoil. But he was certainly up to snuff with gun fighting equipment.

 

[UncleEd]

A 4" GP100/ 686 is hardly a belly gun. Recoil isn't too bad with full house 357mag loads. BTW, GP100 and 686 weigh the same (within a ounce).

Don't think I said they are belly guns. They are full service firearms.

 

[Tallball]

I've shot lots of nice medium-framed Smiths and a couple of nice GP100's.

I like them both. Whichever one fits your hand best is the one to get.

Just like any production firearm, their triggers will vary a bit from example to example. They're both normally good, in my experience.

 

[amd6547]

When I decided I wanted a 3” GP100, my internet research claimed it “had to have” a trigger job. So, I was all prepared to do the home smithing trigger job, which is pretty easy on the GP.
However, when I got my GP, I found the OEM trigger to be fully comparable to my well used, smooth Model 15-3.
No trigger job needed, in my case. And shooting it has made it better.
That 3” GP100 is a great shooting revolver. Goes from CCW to home defense, to woods gun. I generally use the Ruger compact rubber grip, but I also like the Hogue rubber with no finger grooves.

 

[Mark_Mark]

I've shot lots of nice medium-framed Smiths and a couple of nice GP100's.

I like them both. Whichever one fits your hand best is the one to get.

Just like any production firearm, their triggers will vary a bit from example to example. They're both normally good, in my experience.

When I decided I wanted a 3” GP100, my internet research claimed it “had to have” a trigger job. So, I was all prepared to do the home smithing trigger job, which is pretty easy on the GP.
However, when I got my GP, I found the OEM trigger to be fully comparable to my well used, smooth Model 15-3.
No trigger job needed, in my case. And shooting it has made it better.
That 3” GP100 is a great shooting revolver. Goes from CCW to home defense, to woods gun. I generally use the Ruger compact rubber grip, but I also like the Hogue rubber with no finger grooves.

it gets expensive, ever time I ask a question here!

4” 686 & GP100

but which 1st!

 

[UncleEd]

it gets expensive, ever time I ask a question here!

4” 686 & GP100

but which 1st!

Try to handle both if available at a gun or gun shops and
maybe rent them at a range. That might help you
decide.

Since rentals can take a lot of abuse and shooting, perhaps
the range can tell you which they like best for maintenance.

 

[stonebuster]

it gets expensive, ever time I ask a question here!

4” 686 & GP100

but which 1st!

I'd try to dry fire each before you decide because Ruger & S&W revolvers have very different triggers. Nothing wrong with either, just different and a matter of what you prefer. Personally, I like both.

 

[RugRev]

I agree with Stonebuster. The triggers are distinctly different on not only lthe S&W and Ruger but also Colt and Dan Wesson. Hammer arc and when the cylinder locks up vary by model.

 

[jdc1244]

Not Korth - too expensive

My issue with Korth is not so much the expense, but the importer; the appearance of the revolver is ruined by the hideous, childish Nighthawk Custom logo and the ‘Berryville, AR USA’ billboard in garish white lettering.

I assume, unfortunately, Nighthawk is the only importer.

 

[Tallball]

I don't think I'd pay for a GP100 NiB. It would be surprising to find a used one that someone had shot loose. On a really sturdy revolver like that, all the previous owner did was smooth the trigger for you.

 

[stonebuster]

I don't think I'd pay for a GP100 NiB. It would be surprising to find a used one that someone had shot loose. On a really sturdy revolver like that, all the previous owner did was smooth the trigger for you.

Totally agree on buying used Ruger revolvers. Before I knew what to look for when buying used I bought new but now look for lightly used. My last four Rugers were all Six Series revolvers between 35-43 years old and they're all tight as my new ones. I bought them knowing Ruger doesn't support them anymore. It's surprising how little some of these have been used.

 

[UncleEd]

True enough used Ruger GP100s are out there and depending
on the LGS, bargains can be found.

But don't assume you'll be saving that much money over a
new one.

Dealers know what the demand is, what the
excellent reputation for durability is and charge accordingly.

Even on used ones unless they've passed to the level
of being "dogs" the prices may be nearly that of a new one.

The benefit of a used Ruger GP100 is that the company
will service it whether it was made in 1985 or yesterday.

Now when it comes to decent used Smith & Wesson
revolvers, the older ones are commanding as much or
more than the new ones S&W is making. Part of that has to
do, of course, with the changes for good or bad which have
been made in S&W revolvers.

 

[Mark_Mark]

does Smith still service their old guns?

 

[UncleEd]

does Smith still service their old guns?

If they have the parts. And owner may be charged.

Hopefully others will come along to clarify.

But S&W has changed the design of its hammers,
triggers, much of its revolver internals starting
around 1990 and more so since 2000.

 

[Mark_Mark]

One way to find out! Call Smith…

I should probably call Colt, to see if they can work in a Officer Model Match or Target

 

[Russ57]

Can't speak to the target but no to OMM.

 

[Mark_Mark]

Can't speak to the target but no to OMM.

that’s a bummer!

 

[tuckerdog1]

From the past, I had two S&W model 29-2s and a 686 no dash. All had excellent triggers ( especially the 29s ). What I have sitting in the safe today that might fit your needs are a Ruger Match Champion, a DW 715 & in 22LR a Ruger SP101 ( old 6 shot version ). Between the two 357s, the triggers are very close, but I have to give the nod to the DW. As to 22LR revolvers, every one I have ever fired had VERY heavy & stiff triggers. This Ruger was no exception. I put Wolff springs in it & cut the DA trigger pull in half. I have to rate the trigger on that gun as very good to excellent now. It's at least the best 22LR revolver trigger I've experienced. After swapping out the springs, I kinda expected light hammer strikes & miss-fires. That did not occur.

 

[stonebuster]

OK, I've suggested Mark get a new S&W Model 686 since
he seems to favor the Smith guns.

BUT, I do hope if he sees one new or used that he consider
also the Ruger GP100 with 4.2-inch barrel and adjustable
sights or the Ruger GP100 with 3-inch barrel, fixed sights.

The Rugers are direct competitors of the Smith 686s. While
the Rugers have a few more sharp edges, I've found that
their triggers are equal to or can easily be made equal to
any Smith. I've also found that the out-of-the box smoothness
of the triggers is about equal.

I personally prefer the cylinder release setup on the Ruger as well.
Note that the six shot "586" speed loaders fit Smith and Ruger.

Checking one of the biggest online dealers, no CC fee, I
found the Ruger 4.2 incher is $775 while the S&W 4.2 incher
is $919, a $144 difference.

And Ruger does have the reputation for the best customer
service and it is prompt.

+1 on considering a 3" fixed sight GP100 357 or Speed Six 2 3/4" at some point but I know the OP favors S&W. Maybe someday he might try one of these...