mcdonl
Member
Hi gang... I have a .311 Lee Sizing Die and TL mold that I used to cast for my SKS... Can I use this same setup for 30/30 for use in my bolt action? I am wondering if .311 gets it down enough or should I go with the .309 sizer?
Recycled Lee Mold and Sizer....
- Thread starter mcdonl
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NeuseRvrRat
Member
slug the barrel and find out
mcdonl
Member
Ok... so I know in theory how to slug a barrel, and I will do my searching but if anyone wants to give an explanation a go that would be awesome.
I will be casting tonight so it is timely....
I will be casting tonight so it is timely....
Certaindeaf
member
What diameter does that mold throw?
mcdonl
Member
.312 I believe
Certaindeaf
member
You should measure it.
mcdonl
Member
I will tonight. I am casting 230RN but my mold gets to hot if I just cast one caliber so I am going to use the .312 mold to keep things cool. I do not reload for 7.62x39 anymore but I do 30/30 for my bolt action.
Certaindeaf
member
If it chambers you'd be surprised how big you can go with good results. I'm not saying to try anything particular. I personally shoot .360 (as cast/unsized) 140grain SWC's out of a .356 Hi-Power. I shoot unsized lead bullets out of .30 cal rifles a few thousanths over sized all the time.
Like I said, that's just me and I'm not really recommending it for anybody.
Like I said, that's just me and I'm not really recommending it for anybody.
mcdonl
Member
I am seeing that a lot of guys over at cast boolits (My other favorite site) shoot .312/.311 frequently out of 30/30's but at lower velocities. Im ok with that.
Like I said, I am just casting these to keep my 230RN mold cool
This is the part about reloading that is a drag, casting when you realize your out of supplies!! I just primed 1000 cases and realized I had nothing to put in them!
Like I said, I am just casting these to keep my 230RN mold cool
This is the part about reloading that is a drag, casting when you realize your out of supplies!! I just primed 1000 cases and realized I had nothing to put in them!
jcwit
member
I shoot cast bullets that I size to .310 in my 30 caliber rifles. With that said if you size your cast .312 bullets to .311 I fail to see how you would have a problem, its only .001 on a side and its lead not jacketed.
Certaindeaf
member
I hear what you mean. I just loaded a whole bunch so I'm all happy.. but wait.. I'm low on cast bullets now! Can't really have too many cast.. they'll get shot.
Yea, that castboolit site is great for casting and whatall. it's pretty fun
Yea, that castboolit site is great for casting and whatall. it's pretty fun
SSN Vet
Member
slugging the barrel....
Here's how I slug a .30 cal
Cut open a 12 ga. 00 buck shot shell and remove one of the spherical lead pellots.
Field strip your rifle, removing the bolt.
Stand your .30-30 business end up and place the pellot over the muzzle.
Tap (not pound) it into the bore with a nylon, leather or wood faced mallet.
take a stub of a 1/4" dowel (or cut a section out of the middle of a pencil) and use it to tap the pellot about 1/4" further into the bore.
Lay the rifle down on the bench and run a long 1/4" hard wood dowel (or a sturdy cleaning rod) in from the breach end and tap the pellot back out of the muzzle.
Take a trusted caliper and measure the pellot in several places across the impressed rifling, to get the outside diameter.
This dimension corresponds to the groove diameter of your barrel and you want your cast bullets to be equal to or .001" greater than this dim.
Standing by to be corrected, as others here certainly know more about the subject than I do.
Here's how I slug a .30 cal
Cut open a 12 ga. 00 buck shot shell and remove one of the spherical lead pellots.
Field strip your rifle, removing the bolt.
Stand your .30-30 business end up and place the pellot over the muzzle.
Tap (not pound) it into the bore with a nylon, leather or wood faced mallet.
take a stub of a 1/4" dowel (or cut a section out of the middle of a pencil) and use it to tap the pellot about 1/4" further into the bore.
Lay the rifle down on the bench and run a long 1/4" hard wood dowel (or a sturdy cleaning rod) in from the breach end and tap the pellot back out of the muzzle.
Take a trusted caliper and measure the pellot in several places across the impressed rifling, to get the outside diameter.
This dimension corresponds to the groove diameter of your barrel and you want your cast bullets to be equal to or .001" greater than this dim.
Standing by to be corrected, as others here certainly know more about the subject than I do.
mcdonl
Member
Thanks SSN that's a good explanation. I threw a couple hundred of them tonight. I will load a round and see if it chambers and work up a load if all goes well.
jcwit
member
Do as you wish but I would NEVER use a wooded dowel hardwood or otherwise to tap a lead slug into or out of a rifled barrel. If by chance the dowel breaks you will have a real problem, that will usually only get worse. Ever check how the grain runs on a wooden dowel? It angles from side to side 99 times out of a 100. Use steel or brass. Never ever wood.
Other than the above do what SSN VET says. I would slug the bore from muzzle to chamber tho in a lever action. Bolt action? Chamber to muzzle.
Other than the above do what SSN VET says. I would slug the bore from muzzle to chamber tho in a lever action. Bolt action? Chamber to muzzle.
SSN Vet
Member
as noted in my post.... I make no claim to be the leading expert on the subject....
I'm not sure I see the need to push the pellot all the way through the barrel, however. I guess that will give you the absolute min groove diameter as you will definatley push the bullet through the tightest spots.
But for relatively new, and lightly worn barrel, are you really going to see a difference between the muzzle and chamber ends of the rifled barrel.
Poking it in the muzzle a 1/2" and then poking it back out the other end is as far as I wanted to go.
I'm not sure I see the need to push the pellot all the way through the barrel, however. I guess that will give you the absolute min groove diameter as you will definatley push the bullet through the tightest spots.
But for relatively new, and lightly worn barrel, are you really going to see a difference between the muzzle and chamber ends of the rifled barrel.
Poking it in the muzzle a 1/2" and then poking it back out the other end is as far as I wanted to go.
jcwit
member
Very, very possible, yes.
Yes, tight spots is the reason to go all the way thru the barrel. Even the roll engraving on the exterior of the barrel can cause tight spots.
I did not mean to be talking down to your post. Only warning the OP of the possible consenques of a broken dowel rod. I've seen and heard of this happening to many times.
35 Whelen
Member
Slugging a barrel isn't rocket science, but there are certain techniques that apply, and SSN vet hit on most of them.
Like he said, use a piece of buckshot, but first clean your barrel thoroughly. Next dribble a little light oil on the buckshot. Anytime a hammer is used in this process, use a HEAVY one. I keep a cheap 2 lb. sledge under my gunsmithing bench whose sole purpose is to drive lead slugs through barrels.
I carefully tap the lead into the muzzle using the hammer. After it starts, I have a 6" x 1/4" piece of oak dowel I use to get the lead down into the barrel. By the time it's gone 6" or so, it'll usually push the remainder of the way through. If it won't, I have a longer piece of 1/4" oak dowel that I use to drive it the remainder of the way.
***A note on using dowels*** All I've ever used are 1/4" wood dowels for sluggin bore and have yet to break one after having slugged dozens of .30 caliber rifles. The key again is to use a heavy hammer. You want to mess things up ina hurry, just peck, peck, peck with a little light hammer.
It is important to drive the ball from the muzzle to the chamber. The last rifle I built was a .308 based Mauser. As I always do, I slugged the bore and much to my dismay there was a tight spot about 6" in front of the chamber where the groove diameter was but .305"!!! I'd have never found this problem had I not driven the ball all the way through.
After you retrieve the ball, measure it in two or three place with a good micrometer (not a caliper)
Regarding bullet diameter, I've loaded cast bullets up to .311" in diameter to shoot out of .308" groove barrels. No problems and fine accuracy.
Good luck,
35W
Like he said, use a piece of buckshot, but first clean your barrel thoroughly. Next dribble a little light oil on the buckshot. Anytime a hammer is used in this process, use a HEAVY one. I keep a cheap 2 lb. sledge under my gunsmithing bench whose sole purpose is to drive lead slugs through barrels.
I carefully tap the lead into the muzzle using the hammer. After it starts, I have a 6" x 1/4" piece of oak dowel I use to get the lead down into the barrel. By the time it's gone 6" or so, it'll usually push the remainder of the way through. If it won't, I have a longer piece of 1/4" oak dowel that I use to drive it the remainder of the way.
***A note on using dowels*** All I've ever used are 1/4" wood dowels for sluggin bore and have yet to break one after having slugged dozens of .30 caliber rifles. The key again is to use a heavy hammer. You want to mess things up ina hurry, just peck, peck, peck with a little light hammer.
It is important to drive the ball from the muzzle to the chamber. The last rifle I built was a .308 based Mauser. As I always do, I slugged the bore and much to my dismay there was a tight spot about 6" in front of the chamber where the groove diameter was but .305"!!! I'd have never found this problem had I not driven the ball all the way through.
After you retrieve the ball, measure it in two or three place with a good micrometer (not a caliper)
Regarding bullet diameter, I've loaded cast bullets up to .311" in diameter to shoot out of .308" groove barrels. No problems and fine accuracy.
Good luck,
35W
chris in va
Member
Ok wait. You're using the Lee 160 TL mold right? I use the 155gr. The bullet profile is pointy, I wouldn't use that in a tube fed 30/30. Chain fire hazard.
Nevermind, you said bolt action. Need my glasses.
Nevermind, you said bolt action. Need my glasses.
GP100man
Member
If it`ll chamber ,shoot it !! I cast a few 311314 that dropped 312 & it barely chambered ,so I backed up sized em thru a 310 sizer , they sprang back to almost 311 ,perfect !!!
Heres the finished boolit
I set my lubsizer up with a flat top punch & just set em deep into the die & let the TP down onto the die so to get a consistent length boolit .
I use 8gr. reddot & they work great out of a Marlin 336c.
Big fun for the yungens !!!
Heres the finished boolit
I set my lubsizer up with a flat top punch & just set em deep into the die & let the TP down onto the die so to get a consistent length boolit .
I use 8gr. reddot & they work great out of a Marlin 336c.
Big fun for the yungens !!!
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jcwit
member
Well maybe, then again there's always that first time and the whole game is changed. Why not use a steel rod with no chance of a dowel splitting?
Remember the old saying about walking around in the pasture long enough and finally stepping in it? Just because it been done dozens of time does not make it fool proof.
35 Whelen
Member
Because when you hammer a steel rod against something in a bore, every time you strike it, the rods flexes at its mid-point, striking the rifling in the barrel. No need to explain what this does to the rifling.
If one must use a metal rod, I'd suggest aluminum or brass.
35W
mcdonl
Member
Thanks for the input guys. I will add some information...
The gun is a 60's vintage so the barrel is probably worn a little... maybe...
I saw a video on the same slugging technique except the fella used the 6" sections like 35 Whelen mentioned.
As it is, I am going to go the "if it chambers" route and see how they shoot.
The gun is a 60's vintage so the barrel is probably worn a little... maybe...
I saw a video on the same slugging technique except the fella used the 6" sections like 35 Whelen mentioned.
As it is, I am going to go the "if it chambers" route and see how they shoot.
jcwit
member
Brass would be good, aluminum not so much. Don't HAMMER, again tap and keep driving. Common sense in this instance reigns supreme! Course, common sense is in short supply!
jcwit
member
budman46
Member
mcdonl,
my favorite mould is lee's 165g tl design that casts at .312". i tumble lube and seat gas-checks with a .312" lee sizer.
every thing .30 caliber likes this bullet at .312" over 17.5 gr of 2400...my jap 7.7, mosins, enfield .303s, .308 wins, and my two savage 340s in .30-30.
my favorite mould is lee's 165g tl design that casts at .312". i tumble lube and seat gas-checks with a .312" lee sizer.
every thing .30 caliber likes this bullet at .312" over 17.5 gr of 2400...my jap 7.7, mosins, enfield .303s, .308 wins, and my two savage 340s in .30-30.
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