Reloading Advice

Status
Not open for further replies.
I decided against a "kit" because it cam with some inferior extras and stuff that I did not want. As said here, too much of the crap in the kit has to be thrown out and replaced.

I bought what I wanted and what I could use.
 
As an idea. I have 4 presses. single stage, turret and 2 progressives, 3 powder measures. I have a Lee Pro IV casting pot and 4 molds. Everything I use with the exception of the Lee ABLP press and the Lee Auto Drum measure were all bought second hand. It all makes wonderfully accurate ammunition for 380, 9mm, 38Spl and 45acp. At 66yo this stuff is going to outlast me.
 
I’ve decided I am going to start reloading my own ammo. Before I decide on the brand press I’m going to purchase I do have some general questions.

1. Are the dies specific to each manufacturers press?

Usually not, with the exception of the Square Deal B. You don't want the Square Deal because it only loads pistol, and you listed two rifle rounds. Therefore, if you go Dillon, you want either a 550 or a 750.

2. When I decide to pull the trigger and make my purchase it will probably be a kit. Is this a good idea?

Most kits will come with a beam scale, and you've expressed a preference for a digital scale. Given that, I'd go with buying the pieces so you get exactly what you want, and don't pay for anything you don't want.

3. Any reasons why I should not buy a Hornady Progressive Press?
No reason that doesn't involve different shades of Koolaid. :)

4. I’ve researched some digital scales and from what I can tell you pay for what you get. Any suggestions?
I have a Dillon and an RCBS. I like them both. These answers are going to be pure opinion.

5. I will primarily be loading .223, 7.62, and 9mm rounds. What powder would be best for each?
That's also going to be pure opinion.

I learned on a Square Deal B. Then I added a turret press and another Dillon, a 650. If I had tried to use a single stage press while I was learning, I'd have become frustrated long before I understood the process. The progressive press let me see results quickly, and that helped my learning curve.

Thank you.
You're welcome.
 
Go through the reloading section and buy the big name press that you see the least about. Dillon's are bullet proof. Eat the initial cost and use it for the rest of your life. 30 plus years and counting here.

As for kits...you're right. Kits usually come with inferior equipment that you usually wind up replacing. Just get the good stuff up front, if you can afford it.
 
You always want to choose a press based on the volume of the caliber you shoot the most.
• If your main attraction is low volume rifle, and you only need 35 rounds of pistol per week, well a nice single-stage press is all you'd need.
• If your main attraction is low volume rifle, and you also need 400 rounds of pistol per week, then it might take you the better part of 6 hours on a single-stage. Needing to schedule 6 hours every week would get OLD really fast.

So that's why you focus on your volumes.
Will it go up when I graduate college ? Will it go down when the baby arrives ? Will it go up when the kids move out ?

Volumes will also help you choose the right press. There's a lot of equipment out there, but each vendor has pretty much taken over a well-defined market niche. Your volumes will help you buy the correct press, and when you match the press output to your needs, then you get the fastest payback.

Hope this helps.
 
As others have said starting out with a single stage press lets you get to know the process. I got a RCBS reloader special kit for Christmas in 1978. I reloaded all my ammo on that set till 2001. For my 40th birthday I got myself a Dillon 550B. I went from loading 500 9mm cartridges in a weekend to being able to do 500 in a couple of hours. I still use the RCBS press I got in 78 to do prep work on rifle cartridges so it not like its a loss. I prefer a beam scale but just bought my first digital so we will see how that works out. The only thing I would have changed with the RCBS kit is I would have rather had a RockChucker press.

WB
 
As others have said starting out with a single stage press lets you get to know the process. I got a RCBS reloader special kit for Christmas in 1978. I reloaded all my ammo on that set till 2001. For my 40th birthday I got myself a Dillon 550B. I went from loading 500 9mm cartridges in a weekend to being able to do 500 in a couple of hours. I still use the RCBS press I got in 78 to do prep work on rifle cartridges so it not like its a loss. I prefer a beam scale but just bought my first digital so we will see how that works out. The only thing I would have changed with the RCBS kit is I would have rather had a RockChucker press.

Almost same-same for me... my brother got his RS3 Kit for Christmas in 1986, and it's still in use today. I did upgrade in the early '90's to a Hornady ProJector... for pistol cartridges, but I still work all my rifle ammos up on the single-stage. The RS3 is a little small, so last year I upgraded the sizer press to a Rock Chucker, and put the RS3 upstairs, next to the ProJector, for the processing part... but even after ~35 years, the little RS3 is earning it's keep.

I think back on when I got my ProJector... a much simpler version of the newer Hornady LNL, let alone a Dillon... and I'm glad I had 5-6 years under my belt on the single-stage. Fully understanding what everything does, and how it works together, sure beats jumping in blindly.
 
Good morning all,
I want to thank all of you for taking the time to share your vast knowledge. This is exactly why I joined this group after I discovering it. The fact nearly all the dies are compatible is a relief and will greatly aid in my decision making. I am not opposed to purchasing used equipment but there aren’t any presses listed locally here Bakersfield, Ca.

I have to get back to work but I will check back in this evening. You all stay safe and again thank you for all your help!
 
My first press was / is a Dillon 550B because:

As you are first learning to reload, you can operate it as a single stage.

As your learning curve progresses, you can operate it as a progressive.

Rifle / bottleneck cartriges can be done as single stage for accuracy, progressive for mass production.

Those are my thoughts.
It works for me, doesn't mean it will be right for you.

Whatever you choose, be safe, have fun, and don't be afraid to use the forum here for questions.

A lot of these peeps are pretty smart....!!!!
 
I bought my first LNL to load 308 because I had been given a keg of old 3031 and had heard the LNL measure worked well with it.

It didn't do any better than the other volume measures I had but I did find, with the combination of dies and components I was using, the LNL was very frustrating.

Most will say the half index up stroke/half index down stroke on the LNL keeps powder from spilling, it might. Loading 308 though, if you set the bullet on top of the case, it gets knocked off as the case is rotated under the die. So I had to stick the bullet up into the die, raise the handle enough for the case would index under the die, then set the bullet onto the case, get fingers out of the way and complete the stroke.

Thumbs down, are not the two fingers I'd use to describe the process. For the shorter cases, that wouldn't a problem.
 
@BuffBiscuit

I’d like to know more about why you want to get into reloading.

“just because” is a good enough but I think knowing more about your goals might help with the recommendations
 
First, get a good reloading manual. Read it so that you get a basic understanding. Reread it so that you own the material. You'll be then be ready to ask some questions.

You'll make mistakes, we all do, but you want to catch and correct them before you get to the point of pulling the trigger. It's about safety, first.
 
Slowfuse has excellent advise (I don't recommend a progressive press to new reloaders because the aim is to learn to reload, rather than learn how to operate a reloading machine. Big difference). But my suggestion is to get a copy of the ABCs of Reloading first to see what tools/equipment is available, and the pros and cons of each. Also the text breaks down reloading step by step so the new reloader can see the "why" along with the "how"...

When I worked with apprentices I learned the best and longest lasting lessons learned are by using K.I.S.S. Rather than jump into all the workings of electronic engine controls I started with basic automotive electrical, from batteries to light bulbs to generators/alternators to solid electronic engine components and finally to computerized engine, body and accessory controls. Same works with reloading, start basic, simple and wait to get into advanced reloading theory and techniques later...
 
My first press was / is a Dillon 550B because:

As you are first learning to reload, you can operate it as a single stage.

As your learning curve progresses, you can operate it as a progressive.

Rifle / bottleneck cartriges can be done as single stage for accuracy, progressive for mass production.

Those are my thoughts.
It works for me, doesn't mean it will be right for you.

Whatever you choose, be safe, have fun, and don't be afraid to use the forum here for questions.

A lot of these peeps are pretty smart....!!!!
$460 is the highest price for a single stage press I've ever seen.

The point of a progressive is to use it as a progressive. Why bother running it as a single stage when you can get a stronger, more accurate single stage press for under $100?
 
My $.02 on this would be that you use H335 for your .223 Rem loads. I feel that it's more difficult to find a load isn't accurate with this powder with 55 gr and lighter bullets.
 
The point of a progressive is to use it as a progressive. Why bother running it as a single stage when you can get a stronger, more accurate single stage press for under $100?


Why would I need to load 45-70 or 7.7 x 58 progressively.
Why would I need to load 10mm, 9mm, 45acp,ect. ect. on a single stage.
When I own 1 machine that I can do all calibers on, whichever way I choose...?


Like I stated.....what works for me, may not be your cup o tea..

Was giving an opinion, which I believe what was asked for.
 
Most will say the half index up stroke/half index down stroke on the LNL keeps powder from spilling, it might. Loading 308 though, if you set the bullet on top of the case, it gets knocked off as the case is rotated under the die. So I had to stick the bullet up into the die, raise the handle enough for the case would index under the die, then set the bullet onto the case, get fingers out of the way and complete the stroke.

Just FYI... I have a ProJector... the predecessor to the LNL... and I get what you are saying. I do not have automatic linkage to the powder drop, I actuate it manually... I have a better feel for what's going on, and when the rotor occasionally gags on some IMR sticks, it's very easy to recover from by rotating back to the hopper, and back out again. Not only do I load .308 on the ProJ... well, 'assemble' would be a better term... all the case prep has been done, I load .30-06 for my Garand. I allow the shellplate to index, then feed the bullet up into the top of the case/bullet guide (I use Hornady dies.) I prefer the manual part of the process because I have more control over what is going on, and I can stop the process and recover something gone wrong before I have powder all over the press, a cockeyed bullet, or a crushed case. It works for me, YMMV.
 
Why would I need to load 45-70 or 7.7 x 58 progressively.
Why would I need to load 10mm, 9mm, 45acp,ect. ect. on a single stage.
When I own 1 machine that I can do all calibers on, whichever way I choose...?


Like I stated.....what works for me, may not be your cup o tea..

Was giving an opinion, which I believe what was asked for.
And uh, to load .45-70 and 7.7x58 how much do the shell plates/kits cost?

Also, are we taking the dies out of the toolhead or are we buying a separate one? If it's the latter, how much do those cost?
 
Like I stated.....what works for me, may not be your cup o tea..

Was giving an opinion, which I believe what was asked for.




You can argue all you want.
Load however you wish, I don't believe myself, or anyone here, really gives a hoot.
The name of the game is to find what suits the way YOU want to do it.
Have a pleasant day.
 
Reloading is a very personal pass time. We all use basically the same methods, but many will argue their particular way to use that method is best, beyond a doubt and their choice of equipment surpasses all others. Fortunately I started reloading way pre-web, and had no friends that reloaded, and got no "info" from stiff necked "experts". So, I went to the library and/or purchased texts from reloading tool/equipment manufacturers and found reloading equipment vendors' catalogs. I got very few opinions and mostly just plain old facts from these publications (with a little sales hype thrown in). I'm a firm believer of K.I.S.S. for new reloaders, not using advanced equipment modified to make it easier to learn, but learning to use basic tools. (I only know one example of my thinking; I know no one that learned to drive in a twin stick conventional cab Peterbilt and in the last 50+ years most learned to drive in an auto trans small car). If, after learning what reloading is all about and getting the basics down, a newer reloader wants to use a progressive press with auto everything (only requiring pulling a handle), fine, that's his choice. Personally I don't care what knowledgeable individuals do, I'm just telling an absolutely new to reloading person what I have found is the best approach.
 
I like my LNL and am quite happy with it.
Having said that I would suggest a Lee LCT as a first press.
A lot less start up equipment cost for 3 calibers and if you decide reloading is for you, then a progressive of what ever color you like best could be added later, and you would still find uses for the Lee.
For the rifle ammo be aware that you will need some way to trim it so add that cost in as well.
Remove the index rod and it can be used as a single stage, with the rod in it will be much faster than a single stage for 9mm.

I have both a beam scale (RCBS 5-0-5) and two digital scales (GEM 20 and Frankford DS750).
I use the DS750 most but like the 5-0-5 for rifle. Most digital scales don't work well for trickling charges IMO.
If I was only going to have one I would say get a beam scale.
(note: the Lee beam scale is not real popular, and comes in Lee kits.)
A kit might or might not be a good choice.
A little more work but you might be happier in the end buying pieces from different companies.


Now of course the "Best" powder is powder that you can get that has listed loads for what you want to load.
What works best for me might not work best for you.
Way to many variables to make powder suggestions unless you give us an idea of what your goals are.
The best powder for 9mm 125 plinking loads will not be the best powder for 9mm 147 full power loads.

I have Lee dies, Hornady dies and RCBS dies.
Some I like better for one thing some I like better for another, but I am happy with all my Lee dies.

If it was me I would suggest just starting with a setup for one round and make sure reloading is for you.
9mm would be easiest.


If in doubt ask questions, most of us here are happy to help.
 
The primary reason is I live in a state that limits everything except the air I breath. Although, I hear that in the Dems agenda in the coming years. The fact I am no longer allowed to purchase ammo online to be delivered to my home is ridiculous and as a law abiding citizen I refuse to be dependent on the government to defend me or my family is time of crisis. I understand I’m late in the game but I feel I don’t believe this is beyond my learning curve.

The other reason is I enjoy doing things for myself and I enjoy taking my boys out to shoot. My dad wasn’t a shooter or a hunter. As a result I’m self taught with exception of what I’ve learned from friends. I enjoy teaching my boys and this is knowledge they could use the rest of their lives if they choose to.

There are also the obvious benefits like saving a few cents per round and making rounds specific to my needs.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top