Reloading Advice

[BuffBiscuit]

I’ve decided I am going to start reloading my own ammo. Before I decide on the brand press I’m going to purchase I do have some general questions.

1. Are the dies specific to each manufacturers press? Its been suggested that I should buy a cheaper model like a Lee to determine if reloading is for me. I’ve done some research and I’m leaning towards a Hornady progressive press. If Lee dies are not compatible with the Hornady, it will just persuade me to safe overall costs and purchase a Hornady our the gate.

2. When I decide to pull the trigger and make my purchase it will probably be a kit. Is this a good idea?

3. Any reasons why I should not buy a Hornady Progressive Press?

4. I’ve researched some digital scales and from what I can tell you pay for what you get. Any suggestions?

5. I will primarily be loading .223, 7.62, and 9mm rounds. What powder would be best for each?

Thank you.

 

[SlowFuse]

Welcome to THR.

Most dies are not specific unless you buy vintage presses or Dillon Square deal B progressive. The Lee dies work fine, most of mine are Lee and would be compatible.

A kit is a fine way to start. If you stick with it you'll end up replacing at least half of those things with "better" equipment. But most brands have decent starter kits. I wouldn't focus too much on matching brands on the equipment. Find what works for you.

Hornady makes great progressive presses, I just wouldn't recommend any progressive to a newcomer. To me it's better to start with single stage and focus on each step. Maybe a turret style, but full progressives have a lot going on for a beginner to pay attention to. Someone here will say jump in and buy a Dillon or other progressive right off and be done with it. That's fine if it's really what you want, but wouldn't be my suggestion. You'll end up with multiple presses eventually. If you meant a Lee progressive I would not recommend the Pro 1000 at least for now. I have one, and it works great. But it took some fine tuning to get it where it is today.

I don't trust digital scales for measuring powder. I prefer beams even though it's much slower, they read consistently and don't depend on warming up and having any sort of interference. For digital scales "get what you pay for" is a very true statement, I trust a chargemaster pretty much but I still check every 10 or 15 throws with a beam scale.

Powder is tough, you may find a brand you like or that's more available in your area. If you want a do-all for the rifles to begin with Varget would be my choice (that's if the "7.62" you refer to is the NATO x51 variant). May have a hard time finding any right now. For 9mm I like HP38. Again, if you stick with it you'll have a shelf full of powders, even if you still only load those three calibers.

I highly suggest getting at least a couple reloading manuals, and check the sticky at the top of this reloading section here called library of wisdom. Lots of good stuff to read there (and other reputable places online) to start absorbing this dump of info you'll be receiving in the coming days, weeks etc. I've been reloading a little over a decade (I'm 33) and still learn things about this hobby often. There's a few guys here with tremendous amounts of experience and knowledge, hang around and you'll learn a few things!

 

[16in50calNavalRifle]

Welcome to THR, and reloading. I predict you will find this forum an excellent resource, as I have, for years.

I can't really improve on Slow Fuse's reply, above. I'd agree on all points.

I'd recommend getting and reading at least one, and maybe two, reloading manuals (the sections covering handgun and rifle reloading, of course, not the data tables) - before you buy anything else.

Don't know if you're looking minimize your $ investment on this (for me it's part of the game, stretching a $, and it has worked out extremely well), but if so, consider buying used. From the manuals, to the equipment, to the components (meaning getting primers, brass, bullets, or unopened bottles of powder from local reloaders who are moving, getting out of the hobby, etc).

Depends on your location. But I've acquired half or more of my equipment used (barely) - and a lot of reloading gear is industrial-grade - "used" is almost meaningless, if not abused or damaged in some way. Components - quite a bit of brass, and for some reason primers - have acquired privately, with great savings - and met some local shooters who ended up being helpful with matches, range connections, etc.

For powder suggestions, you'll see what the manual data tables have, and you'll get plenty of advice here. Several, to many, options when it comes to powder.

 

[9mmepiphany]

3. Any reasons why I should not buy a Hornady Progressive Press?

I just wouldn't recommend any progressive to a newcomer. To me it's better to start with single stage and focus on each step.

The advice to start with a single stage is very common...and isn't wrong.

With that in mind and wanting to start with a progressive press, the Hornady LNL AP is the ideal progressive to start with. You can use it as a single stage by just installing one die. With it's quick change bushing system, you can work with one die, take it out, and install the next in moments. You can repeat this as you work through the process and function of each die. This is a major advantage of the Hornady LNL system that is not easily match by other progressive presses.

You can also use the progressive as a turret press by just inserting one cartridge and letting it progress through each station by itself.

I started reloading on a Hornady LNL AP and didn't have any issues figuring out the operation of each die station before moving on to loading progressively. You will likely end up with a single stage press eventually. I currently have the Hornday LNL AP on one end of my bench, a Dillon 750 on the other, and a Lee Classic Cast single stage between them

 

[kmw1954]

Another Welcome to the forum.

I have to concur with the two posts above. The Hornady is a fine press and many use them but again most that are using them have been at this for a bit. They are tremendous at loading loads of pistol and some bottlenecks but they also come with a steep learning curve. Now if you are one of those that are above basic mechanical ability it can be done but there is still the learning curve. Another option would be to start with a Dillon 550 press as it isn't as automatic in that it has to be manually indexed after each stroke. Therefore the learning curve is more manageable in my mind. Otherwise the next level down would be a Lee Classic Turret Press, the one with the red base. It is much less expensive but is still a great press..

I use Lee dies and also the Lee powder measures. I prefer a balance bean scale over the electronics, especially for weigh checking powder throws. The other thing that is a must have is a good caliper.

Take your time and read the forums, check out the powder company websites and become familiar and watch the videos on the presses, you will soon tell which are worth watching and which are junk.

Good luck and hope to see you around here!

 

[CharliesHammer]

I’ve decided I am going to start reloading my own ammo. Before I decide on the brand press I’m going to purchase I do have some general questions.

1. Are the dies specific to each manufacturers press? Its been suggested that I should buy a cheaper model like a Lee to determine if reloading is for me. I’ve done some research and I’m leaning towards a Hornady progressive press. If Lee dies are not compatible with the Hornady, it will just persuade me to safe overall costs and purchase a Hornady our the gate.

2. When I decide to pull the trigger and make my purchase it will probably be a kit. Is this a good idea?

3. Any reasons why I should not buy a Hornady Progressive Press?

4. I’ve researched some digital scales and from what I can tell you pay for what you get. Any suggestions?

5. I will primarily be loading .223, 7.62, and 9mm rounds. What powder would be best for each?

Thank you.

Welcome BB lot's of knowledgeable people here at THR. I'm new to reloading. I started about a year ago, so I'm a newbie also. I started with the LNL. There is a learning curve but it puts out handgun rounds.
Enjoy the hobby it is addicting! I have received allot of good help here.

 

[TTv2]

1. Are the dies specific to each manufacturers press? Its been suggested that I should buy a cheaper model like a Lee to determine if reloading is for me. I’ve done some research and I’m leaning towards a Hornady progressive press. If Lee dies are not compatible with the Hornady, it will just persuade me to safe overall costs and purchase a Hornady our the gate.

Dies are compatible with all presses, they all use the same thread pattern, however for extremely large cases there are some dies that are also large and will not fit in most presses.

Unless you get into reloading 19th Century black powder military rifle cartridges, I doubt you'll ever need to think about them tho.

2. When I decide to pull the trigger and make my purchase it will probably be a kit. Is this a good idea?

If you get the kit on sale for a real good price, sure, it's a good idea. I'm not a fan of Lee kits because they stick you with their cheap scale and hand priming tool, which IMO are wastes of money, but stuff from Hornady, RCBS, etc. will be more worth each item in the kit.

3. Any reasons why I should not buy a Hornady Progressive Press?

It's more expensive than the Lee Auto Breech Lock progressive.

4. I’ve researched some digital scales and from what I can tell you pay for what you get. Any suggestions?

Beam scales are still the best. The only digital scales I like are those attached to an automatic powder dispenser. If you're going to spend $200 on a digital scale, just get an auto powder dispenser.

5. I will primarily be loading .223, 7.62, and 9mm rounds. What powder would be best for each?

Depends on what shoots best in your gun and no one powder can shoot well with every different bullet you're going to try.

Since you seem most intent on loading for rifle, I would suggest you get a single stage to do that on and keep the 9mm in the progressive.

 

[forty_caliber]

Howdy and welcome to THR from Texas. Pretty sage advice above. Here is my two cents..,

I run a Hornady LNL but only use it for straight wall pistol in progressive mode. The LNL excels at this task.

7.62 Nato can take significant force during resizing and I don't recommend running this cartridge progressively. Technically speaking you can do it but be prepared for issues. That said, I leverage the case feeder to do things like de-prime with a universal depriming die prior to cleaning the brass and priming following case prep.

I have better quality control using a single stage press for bottleneck rifle cartridges. Given the higher pressures involved with rifle cartridges getting it right matters. Be sure to pick up a case gauge for each caliber and check every cartridge.

Varget is a great powder for 7.62 and meters very well. IMR4895 is also a good choice especially for "Service Rifle" type loads but can be crunchy when metered. CFE223 shines in .223 loads and meters like a dream.

Speaking of case prep what is your plan to clean and prep your brass?

Have you thought about where and how you are going to mount your press? Check out Inline Fabrication for custom mounts and accessories. These items can significantly improve user experience.


LNL AP setup for .45acp.

Check out this thread for some great ideas.
Check out this thread for loading bench setups

.40

 

[Bat Rastard]

If you start with progressive, do the 9mm first. Build some experience on the simpler straight cases before going into the bottlenecks,
I too prefer balance scales.
Less is more. Lower component expense, less wear and tear on everyone and everything.

Good luck and be safe. Remember all loads don't have to be MAX loads. If you load looking for deaths door, eventually you will find it.

 

[lordpaxman]

Welcome to THR and the new addiction (hopefully). Lots of good advice above, and I started with a single stage before getting the LNL AP. Regarding the die question, I use RCBS, Lee and Hornady and the Hornady have longer die bodies (and threads) so it’s easier in the LNL bushing system. Unless you get competition dies, their costs are comparable IMO. It may come down to availability!
I use a Gempro 250, but understand they’re not available anymore. Other threads have information on alternatives.
Regarding components like powder and primers, if you ask that question here you’ll get many many responses!
Good luck!

 

[frankmako]

find someone in your area to show you how to reload before buying any equipment. then i would start with a single stage press to learn the ropes. later you can move over to the progressive press. i still use my first press that i got in 73 for rifle rounds. i use two dillon 550 for pistol rounds.

 

[Ironicaintit]

I would definitely begin on a single stage press. There’s a lot to be mindful of in building cartridges, and mistakes can cost you plenty. It’s best to keep it simple until you become fluent

 

[Crazy Horse]

As most folks here have answered, I'll just add to 9mmepiphany's recommendation on starting out with a single stage and go from there. A different option you might consider is a turret press, especially if you will be working with rifle rounds. As others have commented the LNL is good for straight wall cartridges. So a turret press -while being slower than a progressive press- has the advantage of still being faster than a single stage press, but allows for more precision, especially when working with rifle rounds.

When I did my research, I opted for a turret press as it allowed me to get a sound understanding of reloading while still being faster than a single stage press. I opted for the Lyman American 8 press as it allows for having 2 calibers of 4 die sets per turret. To maximize my options, I started with 44 and 38 dies from Lee. This gave me the most bang for the buck as the 44 Mag dies also works to reload 44 special rounds and the 38 special dies allow one to use the same dies for reloading 357 ammo.

There was a kit that Lyman was selling that provided everything necessary -minus the dies- to begin reloading. Since you mentioned potentially going with that option, I would say that going that route will give you the most bang for the buck. Sure, in time you'll upgrade, and change things out, but it will still give you almost everything necessary to start.

Once you get the fundamentals down and experience on what works for you, you can decide on whether that works for you or if you want to move up to a progressive. I'll leave that topic alone.

Eventually I moved up to a progressive, but I still have my progressive and use it when I need to focus on a specific task (precise powder, OAL, etc.).

The last thing, as everyone here will attest, once you start reloading, you'll find yourself shooting more.

Good luck.

 

[Edcnh]

I initially started with a single stage press which I still use for rifle rounds. I have a Lee Classic Cast turret press that I use for handgun rounds. And as others have already commented get a couple of reloading manuals. My most recent manual is the Lyman 50th edition which has tons of information that would help someone just starting out. When I got into reloading a friend recommended I get the Lyman 48th edition which I used for years. One thing I like about the Lyman manual is the fact they have loads for several bullet manufacturers.

 

[Jack B.]

I will address the press question. I would not recommend a progressive press to a beginner. I am a firm believer in starting of with a single stage press. Until you know if you want to reload or not. It doesn't work for some people. I also think that you should learn everything you can about every step of loading live ammo. A single stage press will allow you to do that. A progressive press can be difficult to set up for a beginner. The main thing I think you should buy or get, is every reloading manual you can get your hands on and READ them before you put a lot of money in equipment and components. I would recommend Lyman , Speer , Hornady, Lee ,Western Powder, Dillon, Vihtavuori and of course Hodgdon's annual manual. There are many others. Plus many of these company's have very good websites. Learn all you can.

 

[Blue68f100]

I started on a SS press many decades ago. I've also started a few right off with the LNL-AP since they were high volume shooter of handgun ammo.
But I started them off as a SS press, 1 die only in the correct position on the press. Having them go through setting up the dies to running single bullet through all stations. Then slowly into full AP mode. I prefer a SS press for my rifle loads, though I have loaded blasting ammo on the LNL-AP in 223R. You have to go a lot slower to allow for the powder to drop.

On your dies. AP presses prefer have a large radius sizing profile for feeding the brass into the die. With a small radius std die you will occasionally hang up on the mouth. The LNL-AP is a thick AL casting and some dies by Lee are very short which requires you to relocate the locking nut. Most all of my Pistol dies are Hornady TiNi coated sizing ring. These are large radius and the TiNi coating are super slick for smooth sizing. You also get the drop down sleeve to help align the bullet during seating.

I had the Lee 9mm dies set and sold it when I located the Hornady set. Was a very good decision. Just be aware the Lee dies do work but they are not as tight on specs. So some work good while others struggle getting things to size properly. Lee's answer is to but a SB die for there rifle. I've been loading for over 4 decades and do not own a SB die. RCBS Redding have all worked for me with my min spec tight chambers.

 

[stillquietvoice]

With that in mind and wanting to start with a progressive press, the Hornady LNL AP is the ideal progressive to start with. You can use it as a single stage by just installing one die. With it's quick change bushing system, you can work with one die, take it out, and install the next in moments. You can repeat this as you work through the process and function of each die. This is a major advantage of the Hornady LNL system that is not easily match by other progressive presses.

Welcome to the forum and the world of reloading.
9mm's thought here is mine as well I have 2 rcbs presses, a single stage and a progressive. I use mostly rcbs dies, but have used hornandy, Pacific and reading as well. All have loaded good ammo.

As far as powders there are many that work in the rifle calibers you mentioned and the pistol cal as well.

I'm not loading for 308 right now, but I am for 223 I've used imr 4895, h 4895 and blc2 in mine. Those will all work in the 308 too, but as mentioned some powders will give better velocity, accuracy.

I'm using hs6 i my 9mm under 125 lrn bullets and getting good results.

Read manuals, go slow to start and enjoy your new hobby.

 

[cfullgraf]

To support the case of starting with a single stage press, they are handy tools to have around even after you transition to a progressive press.

There are several tasks that are done once in a while that just work better on a single stage. By themselves, single stage presses are not very expensive relative to what you'll spend on all your reloading tools.

 

[Charlie98]

Everyone pretty much addressed the other stuff... I'll take #5...

5. I will primarily be loading .223, 7.62, and 9mm rounds. What powder would be best for each?

Questions for you: Why do you want to reload those particular cartridges?

What do you expect out of those particular cartridges?


In the case of 9mm, there can be a cost savings over buying factory ball ammo if you shoot a lot of it.

As far as 5.56mm, if you are talking about reloading generic FMJ blasting ammo... save your time and just buy cheapo factory ammo, unless you are ready to go all the way and invest in a power trimmer and other tools to streamline the brass prep process. Seriously.

In 7.62mm, where the cost of factory ammo is higher, there is some consideration about loading for it. The time you will need to invest in the case prep process will largely depend on the firearm(s) you are shooting it in, and your expectations of the finished ammo. Large quantities for blasting or weekend matches? See 'going all the way' in 5.56mm above... and the investment in the right tools to streamline the process.

Personally, I load for all 3 of those in one capacity or another. I load about 50% of the 9mm ammo I shoot, largely because I don't want to get caught not being able to buy any loaded ammo (like back in the Dark Ages 10 years ago) so I maintain a certain amount of components to load 9mm. 5.56mm? I buy all of my 55grn and most of my 62grn blasting ammo. I do reload 5.56mm, but for rounds intended for accuracy, and only about 10% of the 5.56mm I shoot. Same with 7.62mm... sorta. I buy most of my 150grn FMJ blasting ammo for my M1a, but I reload everything else, including accuracy rounds for the M1a, and the other 2 .308's I load for.

Some of these guys here are retired, or have time on their hands... not a criticism, just fact. I don't have the kind of time to set at a bench and work my way through 1000 5.56mm cases or 7.62mm cases just prepping them, I would rather spend that valuable time reloading cartridges I can't afford to buy (.41MAG, cast bullets in rifle cartridges, .45 Colt, etc...) I love reloading... probably more than just shooting by itself, but I also have to pick my battles. YMMV.

 

[bihj]

First response covers everything. I don't know about the Hornady progressive, but the Dillon 550 can be operated as a single stage press.

 

[rdnktrkr]

Look closely at the Lee Classic Turret press, it allows you to use it as a single stage then as you start getting familiar with that you can use it as an indexed turret allowing you to load faster than a single stage. I don't think a progressive is a good starter press, you will need to fine tune each caliber for it to work at its best which takes time, with the LCT you can buy new turrets and just swap them out and your dies are already set. If you decide to go progressive you will sometimes need a single stage/turret.
The Lee reloading book has a good section in the front about reloading and it is easily understood, another good book for new reloaders is The ABCs of Reloading, I still like to reread both just as a refresher.
The Lee manual will show you the different powders for each caliber, then you will need to do some research to fine tune your choice. I recommend at least 2 manuals for reference and before loading checking both the powder mfg and the bullet mfg websites I print their charts and keep them in my reloading room with notes.
I use a beam scale primarily and have an electronic one that I got off Amazon for about $20, I found out about it from a post on here.

 

[Toprudder]

I started with a Dillon 550 and don’t regret that decision, but I had a friend with a 550 that mentored me.

I now have two main presses that I use. I have the Dillon on one end of the bench, that I use for my semi-auto pistol and 223 plinking loads. On the other end of the bench I have a Lee Classic Turret, that I use for just about everything else, and in fact I use it more than the Dillon. In between, I have a single stage C press that I mainly use for pulling bullets with a collet puller.

How much you plan to shoot should be a factor in deciding what to buy. I normally recommend starting with a LCT unless you plan only to load low volume Precision rifle ammo, in which case I would recommend a quality single-stage. You will always have a use for a single-stage or turret press, even if you buy a progressive press.

I have a Reloading friend that teaches Reloading classes. His class included time on both a single-stage and a progressive press. I suggested he throw in a Lee Classic Turret press, just to familiarize his students with it. He has ended up using the Lee for some of his own ammo production now, as it is quick and easy for some tasks.

 

[Texas10mm]

I've had three Hornady LnL progressive presses, hated every one of them.

Personally, looking at what you're wanting to load I'd say get a Dillon 550. Look around and see what a used Hornady is selling for then see what a used Dillon is selling for.

The Dillon 550 is a manually indexed press. You can run it as a single stage if you wish.

The only truly progressive presses for rifle cartridges would be the Dillon1050, 1100, and the Mark 7.

All three of those are insanely expensive to set up for three cartridges.

You're going to have to do a lot of off press prep for the 7.62X?? and 223 case. Or set up separate tool heads for brass prep.

As far as dies. You can pretty much use any dies. BUT, for a progressive press it's VERY hard to beat Dillon dies for the 9mm. They actually have the dies you need. A resize decapping die with a spring loaded pin to help prevent primer drawback, a bullet seating die and a crimp die. The expanding is handled by the powder funnel under the powder measure.

There are some surprisingly good inexpensive digital scales. Buy a beam scale. You always want to be able to double check your powder settings.

As far as powder. Right now it's catch as catch can. Personally I use WST in the 9mm, H335 in the 223, and to tell the truth I haven't loaded any 7.62x?? in ages.

 

[film495]

I'm new to reloading and inherited some good equipment. I have a progressive press - and still have not considered even mounting it and using it, and it looks pretty good and has a powder dispenser, but I use an older single stage press and weigh each charge by hand. It isn't that complicated, but I'm so on edge about doing each step correctly, which does not always happen, so - I have to stop and redo things sometimes, and IMHO at this point for myself, trying to learn a more complicated piece of equipment that is faster and more complicated to set up correctly just isn't for me yet as I'm not there and I know it.

 

[TonyAngel]

I started reloading in the 80's with a Lee 1000 (I think it was). After fumbling along with that for a year or two, I graduated to a Dillon 550. I am STILL reloading on that very same press. There are no complicated levers or gizmos for feeding bullets or cases. Heck, it doesn't even advance the shell plate by itself. What this means is that there is less to go wrong and no trying to back things up. It's very easy to learn and makes grade A ammunition. When loading 9mm or .45, I can do an honest 400 rounds per hour (and that isn't hurrying. I just worked up to it), providing that I have the primer tubes loaded. What really sped me up was getting the strong mounts and the accessory trays that you can put on the mount. That piece of equipment was truly the best purchase I've ever made with regard to the shooting way of life. Since then, all I've added is a Lee o-frame press. It was relatively cheap, it's strong and straight. I use that to load everything bigger than .223/5.56.

I love Lee dies. They get the job done and they are inexpensive enough that I don't feel bad if one gets ruined for some reason.

Have I mentioned that I LOVE my dillon. Now, if you want to concentrate on one caliber at a time and won't be changing calibers often, look at the 1050. Maybe they have a newer model called something else. Honestly, I don't even know what Dillon has out now because I've never gotten the itch to upgrade and have never had to visit their site due to a problem. Anyway, that 1050 can make some ammo. Back when I was shooting steel and USPSA, my buddy and I pitched in and bought one and that thing will do 1000 rounds an hour. Literally, once we got it setup, the only thing we needed to do was pull the handle. It's a heck of a setup though and you need ROOM on the bench for that monster.