Reloading trays?

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hatchetbearer

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I'm thinking of dabbling in reloading when i get back from deployment, and i was looking at stuff to get set up, and the sticky was saying i needed reloading trays for holding ammo. Is there any reason why i couldnt use the styrofoam blocks from factory ammo cases?
 
They work but they get a bit crowded. If you use case lube the pistol ones will cover too much of the case walls for proper lube application if you are using spray types like HOS or Dillon.

Buy an MTM Case Guard tray and you won't look back. I've had mine for 36 years now and it is still going strong. It works well for pistol and rifle.

If you want to go first cabin get the Delrin blocks from Sinclair International. I use them when I load many of my rifle cartridges. They are bright white so you see any powder that might get out of the case and you can put them in the dish washer to make them all clean and shiny.


Greg
 
You mean a reloading block? Reloading for pistol or rifle?

An ammo box tray will most certainly not work as a reloading tray for 9mm... unless you plan to use forceps to extract your charged cases. :)

For pistol, I just use a small, flat tray as a reloading block.
 
You could use them, however the bases of the cartridges may be up and the bullet into the styrofoam holes. Trying to put the brass into the holes base-down could be problematic.

Go to MidwayUSA and buy Frankford Arsenal reloading blocks, they hold 50 rounds each and are stackable. They are not that expensive and you order them for the caliber (cartridge) you are loading. I personally buy four for each caliber so I can load 200 cases at a time, in batches of 200 pcs.
 
Most reloading trays are less than $10 . You can buy reloading sets that contain most everything you need to get started in one box, rcbs rockchucker supreme kit,and hornady"s lock and load kit {both around $350} come to mind and i'm sure there are other models too.
 
Hi All,

I've just gotten into reloading so spent a lot of time looking at my equipment list and trying to divide it into the Really Useful and the Unnecessary Extra parts. Being the "thrifty New Englander" that I am I was tempted to skip the reloading trays and try to reuse the trays that come with factory ammo or someother no cost solution.

I found the reloading trays to be money well spent. Like Friendly, Don't Fire above I went with the caliber specific (actually group of calibers specific) Frankfor Arsenal trays and am glad I did. I recommend not overthinking this one. Try a cheap solution but don't be surprised if you later decide to splurge on a couple of $6.00 trays.

Good Luck.

Dan
 
Reloading trays are not absolutely necessary but are a convenience. It keeps things a bit more organized and minimizes the chance of knocking over a case and spilling powder.

There are several universal trays out there that work fine but not as nice to use as the ones made for specific cartridge head sizes. That said, I only have trays cut for the cartridge sizes I reload the most an make due with the other cartridges.

They are a small expense but it could be postponed.

I think you might find the styrofoam trays a bit difficult for reloading duties although they are great for storing your completed rounds.
 
A agree about the MTM Case Guard. I have had a couple for over 40 years. They hold 60 rounds, so you can start new rows when you have completed a procedure. They will fit anything but a 9mm. The 9mm case is just barely taller than the trays. One side is for the smaller head cases and the other side for the larger head cases, such as 45ACP.
 
depends on what you're reloading and what press you're using. if you're rocking a turret or progressive press with handgun calibers, you don't need them. if you're going to be reloading rifle or using a single stage press you need a block. midsouth has some smart reloader trays pretty cheap, all the others I see around are too spendy for me.
 
FRANKFORD ARSENAL has all the variations in standard and short versions. I did make several my self out of some Cottonwood I had lying around but the plastic one can go in the dishwasher.
 
don't think too deeply into this. Just find a 50 case 10 buck tray that will fit your caliber.
 
Just so you know, whatever you end up with get a couple. It's nice if the cases are spread out to make it easy to pick them up, and it's important that they sit open end up. But the most important part is to have at least two trays so you can move cases from one to the other as you go through the reloading steps. This is imperative to keep them separated to avoid skipping some, and most of all to protect against double loading powder into one. An organized step by step process is critical. Though I'm a noob, I'm a safe noob. :eek:
 
get 'em!

Anything that keeps your work organized and eases/speeds the frequent picking up and putting down of cases (as in batch loading) will save you time & prevent mistakes. Fewer fumbles too!
 
I find the wood type works better then plastic for me, believe I purchased from Midway.
 
Get a block of wood and start drilling if your cheap like me. If not, go buy some. They are so convenient, I would almost call it a necessity.
 
I agree. I have the Sinclair wood blocks. The #3 & #5 fit most of what I reload. They don't have to be an exact fit, just close enough that the cases won't tip.
 
I have a MTM and a Hornady, both are in the back of the drawer. Both have the same problem of one size fits most. I also have some I made from wood, which get more use than the red ones. My favorites are the Frankford Arsenal. $5 each at the gun show. Beside the advantage of proper fit, they are easier to clean than wood. I put them in the dishwasher.
 
I did without when I first started reloading with a Lee Loader, because I was only doing 20 rounds or so at a time. Once I started doing 50-150 at a time on a press, though, I came to appreciate the trays.
 
The styrofoam blocks fall over too easily.
"...have at least two trays so you can move cases from one to the other..." Too slow. Two bins, for sure, but not the trays. Trays are normally only used after the powder is in the cases.
 
I agree with the folks who recommend against the factory syrofoam for use in reloading: too tight (you'll spill the whole block trying to take a case out); and too light (the block will tip over with only a couple of filled/loaded cartridges).

Like many here, I've collected/have (a lot of) different blocks over the years. The one I always go to, however, is a wooden Sinclair #7. It's perfect for the 30 caliber family, will still fit a S&W500, and still dependable for even small .223.
http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=33205/Product/Stalwart_Wooden_Loading_Block__50_round_

Like others say, you could drill a pattern of holes in a 4x8x1 wood block yourself (and I've got one of those from many years back), but eventually add a couple more of Sinclair's blocks (#2 through #8) and you won't look back.
 
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