REM OIL, again!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Never had a problem with RemOil but then again I didn't use it for any long term storage applications. I much prefer RIG Gun Grease as it's very easy to apply and stays put wherever you apply it. I also wrap my guns in those silicone treated cloths for extra protection from moisture.
 
OP- no one did anything to you, you stored your guns incorrectly and they were damaged because of it. Simple .
The part I don't understand is that a gun left dry with zero oil on it won't lock up in 7 years unless you live in the ocean or something.
Strange post, I detect a possible robot or cyborg or something. Got pictures ?
 
When my brother passed I cleaned his safe out and found that his guns were all in fine shape despite being unheated and in the Joplin area. They all had been cleaned and Remoil oiled several years before and there was no rust but the surfaces were a little sticky. Agree that it was not the oil but the darn bags. I use RIG myself.
 
In my experience Rem oil sucks as a rust preventative, but poor storage dosent make it any better.
It worked well enough on an sks that got fished out of the ocean, sprayed off with a garden hose and drenched in the stuff. But its its not something i use by choice.
 
Even if stored properly, shouldn't firearms be cleaned and lubed anyway before testing them?
It depends on how they were stored. Some of my guns can go for years between range trips, but my normal cleaning/lubrication/storage process provides adequate protection that I don't have to do anything special. That means I can take them out of storage and go straight to the range.

Realistically, if I haven't handled or shot a gun for awhile, I'm going to check it over before going to the range, just to reacquaint myself with it. But I really can't think of a time where I had to do a cleaning & lube on a gun that came out of storage before going to the range.
 
Folks,
I looked at the original posters history and he/she likes to start a thread and then abandon it and not respond to any requests for more information. I feel that we have a troll poster in our midst.

I also have used rem-oil for decades and have had minimal issues with it. One time it caused a gummed up action on a VERY worn bolt action rifle we used at boy scout summer camp. I don't think the oil was the primary issue, but rather an additional cause.
 
Your article mentions 'wiping down' after oiling/cleaning. I do that but you should be smart enough to know you cant wipe down the inside of a gun which is a very important place to get lubed!
Yup, not sure what he was responding to but it came from outer space and is likely headed back that way.
Anyone who had been auditing this forum since 2006, even if he had only 7 posts, would have figured out that leafbags and holsters weren't a good long-term storage option. I don't know what motivated this individual to post, but suspect he is not in learning mode.
 
We do preservation packaging of VERY expensive machinery. It is a well developed science and the DOD is pretty well the master of it, as they take all sorts of equipment, preservation pack it, and then shove it in a parts warehouse for 10 years until needed, and then expect it to still work.

The sacred text of preservation packaging is MIL-STD-2073-1 Methods of Preservation

The typical regimen for assemblies of machined steel components goes like this...
  1. Spray the entire thing inside and out with an appropriate preservative oil... (approved oils are listed in the spec, none of which would be suitable for lubrication).
  2. Enclose the product in a metalized vapor barrier bag (MIL-PRF-131b is the spec. for that).
  3. Insert the appropriate amount of descant into the bag (none of these little tea bags, were talking dozens of the big 8"x4" bean bags). These must be stored in a sealed vapor tight drum and monitored with a humidity indicator to ensure they are dry when used.
  4. Place humidity indicators on the product inside the bag.
  5. Evacuate the bag (usually with a large shop vac) and then heat seal the bag shut. (you can also get bags with threaded cap nipples that make this task easier).
  6. Pack the unit into an appropriate container (anything from a weather resistant corrugated box, to a crate with poly sheet inserted in between layers of plywood. Large crates always have drain holes in the bottom and screened vents in the top. The must breathe.
Since the cost of having your field service tech. clean and prep the machine for installation can be significant, in more recent years, the use of VCI wraps and VCI immitters and VCI impregnated foam cushions are gaining popularity.... but they ain't cheap.

Sorry to hear of this expensive mistake.... I had my own issue storing a Kentucky Long Rifle I built from a CVA kit and hot blued myself (very nice finish) in a foam lined gun case. That pretty blue finish now has rust scars on it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top