Removing moly & wax from bore

[BammaYankee]

I recently came into a case of Black Hills 175 moly coated match ammo and am considering trying them out using an already seasoned Rem 700 PSS.

If I choose to go back to non moly bullets how do I completely remove both the moly AND the carnauba wax from the bore? I do not plan on pre treating with any other moly product. I just plan on shooting about 15 rounds to coat the bore using the bullets only, then seeing what kind of accuracy I get.

Thanks in advance!

 

[bogie]

A little usp bore paste or a similar non-embedding compound will get it.

Or just clean using a normal REAL solvent (not that CLP stuff), and it'll be gone inside a few dozen rounds.

 

[230RN]

"Or just clean using a normal REAL solvent (not that CLP stuff), and it'll be gone inside a few dozen rounds."

Isn't that what he's trying to avoid? Shooting it out? Do you mean "a few dozen passes with the cleaning rod" or something?

 

[bogie]

Hey, a few dozen rounds is only 3 targets... Shouldn't be a big deal. If he really, really wants, he can get down to bare steel with USP or Brobst, but frankly, in most firearms, he's not going to notice any difference between "shooting moly, shooting "transition," and shooting "naked" bullets.

 

[230RN]

Still doesn't make much sense, bogie. Sorry.

 

[bogie]

It's a PSS... Which means that we're not talking about a select match barrel... It just doesn't have the tolerances to be able to tell much of a difference from moly vs. no moly... May as well just hit it a few licks with a bronze brush, flush it, patch it,and go. May wanna run a patch with lock-eze on it to pre-foul - won't put your first shot in the same hole, but seems to be closer.

Moly doesn't improve accuracy. You get the same -potential- accuracy with either moly or naked, but you're going to want to shoot different loads/jumps with either. That may be why some folks think that coated bullets shoot better - in a particular case, the moly load shot better.

Moly's benefit lies in theoretically having to clean less, due to a theoretical slower buildup of copper fouling. It was big in benchrest a few years ago, but just about everyone has gone back to naked bullets. I'm thinking that the application process (which generally involves peening the material onto the bullet) is probably also detrimental to the integrity of the bullet base (the most important part of the bullet).

 

[BammaYankee]

Maybe I should narrow my question down a bit to avoid a raucus... I understand a good ammonia based cleaner will take care of the moly (eg Sweets).

My more pressing concern is the wax that is coating the moly. How do you make sure that it gets removed? Do I just fire a bunch of 'naked' rounds, let the barrel heat up, and just let it work its way out a little at a time?

 

[bogie]

Ammonia isn't going to matter. Ammonia doesn't dissolve moly. If it concerns you, a little USP or JB on a tight patch, and you're good. Flush it with some good solvent (I prefer Butch's Bore Shine).

If the wax is tough enough to live through that, well, that's some tough wax...

 

[rodregier]

The moly is the harder material to remove. The wax is almost trivial to clean out. Typical wax for the application is carnuba, which is also used as a car wax and on some candies.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnuba

 

[Neo-Luddite]

Maybe I'm simple minded--but what would the harm be in running a a quantity of boiling distilled/de-ionized water through the bore---that would run the wax out just fine. Depending on the mineral content of the tap water where you're at--it would probably be OK, too.

 

[bogie]

And the first time you clean it after shooting "naked" bullets, you're not going to find wax.

Why do they wax moly bullets?

It isn't for the rifle. It's so your fingers don't turn black while handloading.