Revolver care. How did they do it 150 years ago?

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i own and shoot a 1876 winchester rifle in 45-60 made in 1883, who ever owned this rifle over the years took very good care of it as the rifle,s outside condition is very good and so is the bore. i still shoot this rifle with light loads of smokless powder and soft lead bullets. i think for the first 30 or so years it was fired with black powder and corrosive primers and who ever owned it knew how to propely take care of it. the 1876 is the top rifle. eastbank. .
 

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I have two Ruger Old Armies with adjustable sights, and two without adjustable sights (all four are stainless steel), and about 13 muzzle loading rifles and 3 shotguns. I've used them all except one 54 cal rifle I have, and none of them are in anything but good condition. No rust is evident anywhere. I have cleaned them with water when I wasn't home and didn't have anything else, and followed that up with a liberal amount of WD-40. Usually, however, I use a powder solvent and lots of elbow grease. It is my guess that most people over do it when it comes to cleaning a firearm. It is a ridiculous waste of time to disassemble a firearm down to removing the last screw and spring for cleaning. A person can do that, but it is far from necessary. My two Ruger Vaquero's that have been used for cowboy matches since 2006 have had the barrels and cylinders swabbed out with solvent and an oily rag many times, but once I disassembled those two guns and installed spring kits, they haven't been take apart since. They are both blued steel and have no rust on them. The only time I've used black powder loads in those two guns were during a parade, but even then they were not disassembled for cleaning after wards. My cousin faithfully disassembles his 1911 after every trip to the range. I think he is foolish, but that's his business.
 
If people want to clean their guns down to the last spring and screw, as I do, then let them do it without calling their methods "a ridiculous waste of time." I think it's just laziness not to clean a gun well, but I would never post that (ooops - I just did).
 
Jojoba oil is supposed to chemically replicate whale oil almost exactly

I learn a lot whenever somebody posts something like this...amazing what google will turn up on just about anything.

It seems that Jojoba oil is, indeed, almost chemically identical to Sperm whale oil. It has a pretty interesting history.

Bit expensive, though, at several hundred bucks a gallon.

Here's a cool link:

http://faculty.ucc.edu/biology-ombrello/POW/jojoba.htm
 
pohill,
We all have opinions. Call me lazy if you want, my guns still shoot whenever I take them to the range or to a match. I got them to use, not to fondle and look at. You will not find any rust on any of my guns. What someone else does with their time is their business...
 

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pohill,
We all have opinions. Call me lazy if you want, my guns still shoot whenever I take them to the range or to a match. I got them to use, not to fondle and look at. You will not find any rust on any of my guns. What someone else does with their time is their business...

Your guns...they have outgrown your gun racks.

You might consider putting them on some kind of birth control to get a handle on that before it gets way out of hand...

:neener:

Seriously...nice collection!
 
What someone else does with their time is their business...

You say it but you don't live it. What I do with my guns is my business and you do not have to call it "a ridiculous waste of time."
If someone wants to fondle their gun, look at their gun, clean their gun, shoot their gun...whatever - it is their business.
There are people out there who call owning a gun "a ridiculous waste of time."
 
This OP was asking how they cleaned their firearms 150 years ago. He didn't ask anyone how they cleaned their firearms today. The best reference I could find was Ned Roberts, who was born on October 21, 1866. Does anyone have an older or another written reference?
Maybe John Dillin's book "The Kentucky Rifle"?
 
Howdy

If you read the OP's post again, he was specifically asking about revolvers, not rifles or muskets. There will be slight distinctions between cleaning a long gun and a revolver. That is why I mentioned the bit about taking them apart and dumping them in a pot of boiling water. You are not going to take a rifle or musket apart and fit everything into a pot of boiling water.
 
That's true, but that's the only thing I could find that had a reasonably detailed description of cleaning a firearm back 150 years ago. :)
 
From my reading, mostly centered on the civil war era up to the turn of the century, I have come to believe that firearms were cleaned with plain water - no soap - and preferably as hot as they could get it. As far as lubrication, I believe that they used some sort of grease made from animal fat for areas such as the cylinder arbors, and mineral oils or, as has been stated earlier, sperm oil for the lock work.

From my own experience, I normally clean my revolvers in hot (as hot as it comes from the faucet) water, and then follow up with Ballistol.

I personally prefer Colt open top pattern revolvers, as they are so easy to clean. I break them down into their three major groups - barrel, cylinder, and frame - and drop the barrel and cylinder in a pan of the hot water. I do remove the nipples from the cylinder, but that's as far as I normally go regarding disassembly. I put a patch on a cleaning rod, and with the muzzle of the barrel immersed in the water, I work the cleaning rod up and down like a pump, which pulls water in and expels it back out on each stroke. I do the same thing with the cylinder. The nipples, front of the cylinder, nipples, and any other "nook and cranney" gets brushed with an old toothbrush. I also wipe off the arbor and hand clean the breech face and hammer and hand area of the frame. I finish up by drying the bore and cylinder chambers with dry patches, as well as the arbor bore, then the entire revolver with a dry shop rag. Finally everything gets a wipe inside and out, with Ballistol.

I use Crisco as a grease substitute on the arbor. On the nipple threads I use Ballistol as an anti-sieze.

I very seldom detail strip my Colt clones, but when I do I collect all of the small parts in a small mesh kitchen strainer, and just wipe them off and oil with Ballistol on reassembly.

I have no rust issues on my revolvers using the above method.

My Remington gets the same treatment, but the fact that the barrel in not removable from the frame means that the grips must be removed and the rest goes into the water, meaning that the revolver must be detail stripped each time.

I have a very old tin, shaped like a civil war "bullseye" canteen only being about an inch or so in diameter in which I carry some Ballistol for range use. The bottle was originally for a Mauser rifle but looks pretty 18th century-ish, so I use it. I used to carry a Windex bottle of "moose milk" which is a 50/50 mix of Ballistol and water, which I would spray down the bore and on the cylinder when done shooting for the day, but it was messy and made the revolver no easier to clean, so I discontinued its use, as well as not being very period authentic.

I religiously avoid any "modern" petroleum based lubricants, as it combines with the bp fouling and turns into a nasty tar-like substance.

This process works for me, is fairly easy, and is likely pretty close to the way it was done back in the day.

I'm always ready to learn, so if anyone has any comments or suggestions, let's hear 'em.
 
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Elmer Keith's advice from 'Sixguns'

My wife, who forced me a couple of years ago to go to a gun show, and buy an 1851 Navy, bought me a book by Elmer Keith for Christmas. This book is something of a classic, I believe, and Elmer is an entertaining writer. He wrote this in 1955 (revised in '61), when he was older, but knew men from the Civil war, the 'Indian wars', etc. You may want to check it out.

Anyway, he has a chapter on cleaning, with some helpful advice, and some humorous remarks. For instance, 'Dismantling fine guns with ill fitting screw drivers is a crime.'

His cleaning methods may not reflect what they did as far back as the Civil War, but they are simple enough that it is possible.

On page 306, he writes,
'When black powder is used, the story is different. The powder fouling must be removed, either with an aqueous solvent solution or just plain water, on a patch, and the gun thoroughly dried and swabbed with oil or solvent. When fired with old corrosive primers, solvent or water is the safest method of removing all primer salts. Cap and ball guns must be dismounted occasionally to get the fragments of broken caps out of the action and to wash the parts, oil, and replace them. A good solvent is excellent for this purpose and if it is not available, nothing is better than clean boiling water. The parts will dry of their own heat and can then be lightly oiled.'

...

'Cap and ball base pins should always be coated with a heavy grease like Rig or Winchester gun grease or some other heavy grease that will stay in place. The base pin is usually cannelured most of its length to hold such a grease.'

...

(from page 307)
'I have seen an old cow-poke's gun with the grips worn away from the steel at the edges of the strap, both wood and ivory, but the gun was clean, oiled, and as deadly as a coiled rattlesnake, and ready for business.'

and almost last, but not least...

'Small children should never be allowed to play with a gun if it has any value, as they will surely ruin it, either by taking it apart, using it as a hammer, or by subjecting it to other abuse...' (He does talk about gun safety with children immediately after this. But I noticed his first comment related to the gun, not the children.)

And near the end, he writes (p. 308)

'What I have set forth did not come from books, greatly as we admire nearly all we have read. It came from personal experience, from thousands of conversations with cow-punchers, backwoods gun packers, gun fighters on both sides of the law, and the reminiscences of battle experienced veterans of all our wars from the Civil War on...'

So they valued keeping their guns clean and oiled, and used boiling water sometimes (it sounds like often). But he also implies some variation, which is probably the bottom line.

Not having wisdom of my own, I shared his.
 
Back in the day, most people didn't have handguns for the most part. Revolvers were so expensive due to the machine work required to produce one that people couldn't afford these fancy repeaters. The old west is very much different from what you see on Lone Ranger. So, for the average joe, they likely greased their entire gun with whatever grease they had from some random critter, rammed home a wad on top of powder, poured in more shot and then another wad. Maybe replace the shot with a ball.
 
Tell me fella's what's wrong with using equal parts of Murphy's Soap Oil, Hydrogen Peroxide, and rubbing alcohol. All those ingredients are all available at your local grocery store. Well maybe not in the 1860's. :D
 
The peroxide gets the powder fouling out, and the alcohol helps the drying much more rapidly, the Murphy's, actually has an oil base that that protects the metal to some degree. After I get done cleaning the arm I usually use Bore Butter in the bore as a precaution against rust. Naturally I swab out the bore before actually loading and shooting them.
 
The peroxide gets the powder fouling out, and the alcohol helps the drying much more rapidly, the Murphy's, actually has an oil base that that protects the metal to some degree. After I get done cleaning the arm I usually use Bore Butter in the bore as a precaution against rust. Naturally I swab out the bore before actually loading and shooting them.
Why swab it out?

Leave the bore butter in there the first few shots will blow it right out. Normally we use bore butter over the ball anyway right? so whats the difference?

I made up some moose milk with the equal parts murphys, alcohol and peroxide and put it into a spray bottle. It leaked about half of it out before i caught it.

The mixture creates pressure and pushed about half the mix out the sprayer.
 
Bower, the bore butter will deactivate the BP, (make it moist). I usually keep my "moose milk" in a plastic thermos, I notice it does foam quite a bit, but I never noticed the pressure, as I will shake it up a little before opening it.

Also when loading a BP revolver, I'll place the powder in the cylinder, and then place a wad between the ball and the powder (Wonder Wads) or I've used oatmeal, cornmeal, cream of wheat, Maltomeal. Once the ball is seated, I'll use bore butter, Crisco, or whatever vegetable, or animal grease I might have brought along, to cover the remainder of the ball to the forcing cone.

Then again I carry a can of Pam, which I'm sure our Pioneers didn't have to spray the cylinder with when they got their side arms gummed up, but then again I don't think they shot as many rounds as I do during a match.

I just re-read your post, I didn't mean on a revolver to swab the bore, just the cylinder holes. Sorry for the misinterpretation. I also shoot a variety of front stuffers.
 
They used water and some kind of grease or oil. I think they used what ever they had on hand.
 
They used water and some kind of grease or oil. I think they used what ever they had on hand.
 
a friend and I bought a cheap Italian .36 cap an ball navy in the early '80s. we shot it with fffg and our cleaning was spotty at best. It got left in the cupboard for a year and when I tried to make it function again i had to totally disassemble it since the cylinder pin was rusted, the nipples were rusted, and the whole thing was unusable. i managed to take it apart and scrub the rust and make it work but, I cant imagine that the old time guys could mistreat their weapons like i did and still make em work. Interestingly the spring in the stock was fine.
 
I've read lots of accounts from the Colonial era frontier where they talk about lone hunters shooting game and the immediately reloading- in the event the shot was heard by hostiles, you wouldn't want an empty gun.

I've wondered if in cases like this, the guns were not cleaned frequently at all. They sometimes had barrels freshed out (re-bored); could this be partially the result of poor cleaning habits?
 
Bower, the bore butter will deactivate the BP, (make it moist).

Oh your talking about a rifle?

I use bore butter in my bore and i dont bother doing anything to it when i shoot it. I feel it helps lube the bore so the ball slides threw it better. By the time the powder gets to the bore it should be all but burnt up anyway. (Pistol)

Many times ive put a patch down the chambers with lube or something on and i havnt noticed any ill effects either its not soaked though just a light coat if that. Just enough to keep the chambers from flash rusting.

I have some little toy caps i could fire threw the chambers if i really felt they were soaked enough to cause a fouled charge.
 
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