revolver or semi auto

[257WM_CDL-SF]

I am looking for a pistol to carry hiking and in vehicle and home protection
Which is best a revolver or semi auto. currently looking at a 686plus 357
or a M&P 40 or a FNP

 

[Nushif]

There really is no "best" in life.

What you'll find here is opinion, sometimes coming from experience opther times not.

I've found some of the advice here a great guide and other advice here to be useless conjecture based on flawed premises with no knowledge of my situation., skillset, handsize, living arangements, etc.

What I can recommend here is that you handle both, shoot booth and see what gives you the proverbial warm-fuzzies.

 

[earlthegoat2]

I think the 357 would be better for those critera. 357 is more powerful and versatile for the trail. You can load shotshells into it if need be for snakes or rabbits or full house loads for for larger critters as well has two legged predators. As well you can load 38s for low power plinking or stump shooting if it is legal.

 

[BCRider]

Ditto to what Nushif said about all this being opinions. If you're a low time or new shooter your best bet is to go around to some Rent-A-Gun ranges and try out a lot of different guns.

I will say that because a revolver does not rely on the energy in the round to cycle that you have a lot more load options with a revolver. But to get access to that sort of flexibility without the need to hunt all over hell's half acre for ammo you would want to get into reloading so you can tailor the power of your loads from low power stuff with light bullets for rabbits to go into the pot to medium power practice rounds to +P or full power Magnum loads for fun or defense as you find suitable. If you tried to load a semi auto cartridge over even a half to third of that much variation one end or the other would either not cycle or, if you changed the recoil spring, would be so hard on the gun that it would soon destroy itself

 

[W.E.G.]

You can load shotshells into it if need be for snakes or rabbits

Rabbits?

Really?

I can guarantee you I will NOT be eating any sick rabbit that will allow me to get close enough to it that it could be killed with a .38 revolver loaded with shotshells.

The snake thing is only slightly more probable. I mean, we ARE talking about "self-defense" snake killing, and not opportunistic snake hunting - right?
In 99.9% of the cases where you are close enough that you might kill the snake with a .38 revolver loaded with shotshells, you have an equally-available ability to just move away from the snake, and go on about your business.

 

[W.E.G.]

I prefer a much larger pistol for home defense than I would if the pistol were added to my already too-heavy pack on a long hike.

If you are packing a self-defense gun on long hikes, you want the lightest gun in an EFFECTIVE CALIBER you can get. If the largest threat you will encounter is two-legged, any one of the compact .380 pistols is probably OK. Alternatively, an alloy-frame snubnose revolver will serve you equally well.

If bears or large cats are a realistic threat, anything less than a .357 magnum is foolish.

 

[jad0110]

As others said, rent the models you are interested (or at least similar models) and see which one "does it" for you. Trust me, you'll know within just a few minutes.

My sister, mom and I all prefer revolvers. My father and wife prefer autos. My future brother and law goes both ways. So your mileage WILL vary.

 

[earlthegoat2]

Rabbits?

Really?

I can guarantee you I will NOT be eating any sick rabbit that will allow me to get close enough to it that it could be killed with a .38 revolver loaded with shotshells.

The snake thing is only slightly more probable. I mean, we ARE talking about "self-defense" snake killing, and not opportunistic snake hunting - right?
In 99.9% of the cases where you are close enough that you might kill the snake with a .38 revolver loaded with shotshells, you have an equally-available ability to just move away from the snake, and go on about your business.

Alright buddy,

I dont usually respond to these but this needs it bad.

I have caught a rabbit bare handed before just by running it in a circle until it winded itself. It sounds far fetched, I know, but just ask your grandpappy how its done and he might be nice enough to tell ya.

Another thing, if you have ever been rabbit hunting, is that you usually jump them when you, SURPRISE, get CLOSE to them. Meaning you just may see them before they get skiddish enough so make a run for their lives. A 38 or 357 bird shot load will be more than enough to kill them deader than dead at less than 10 yards.

On to the snake thing.

If it was me, then yes, it would only be in self defense. You appear to be from VA so you know about copperheads and how docile they are right. Maybe you do maybe you dont but copperheads wont bite unless really provoked. Here in GA there are more copperhead bites per capita than any other state mainly because people dont leave them alone. But all it takes is news of someone getting bitten and everyone is out for them. Plus we have coral snakes and cottonmouths down here. Combine that with the three rattlers we have as well and you could say that there is a veritable bevy of dangerous slitherers around.

Like I said, Im not going to shoot one willy nilly but there are plenty of people who will and I am not going to make a rash judgement about it right now. But even so, that shotshell loaded in your revolver is going to make short work out of a snake with less margin of error than a wadcutter or a hollowpoint.

Rant off. PM for any more clarification.

 

[420Stainless]

686plus 357
or a M&P 40 or a FNP

Yes. They are all good choices for most people. I have a 3" 686+ I take with me sometimes. It is a wonderful vehicle gun, but I really don't like carrying revolvers for long periods of time. If I'm going to be out and about on foot for long I prefer the flat sides of a semiauto. I don't have any experience with M&P or FNP .40's. Other than personal preferences such as mine for carrying semiautos, I don't think there is any particular advantage or disadvantage to any of those choices. The 686+ probably weighs more, but I'd think they'd be close when all fully loaded.

 

[GLOOB]

The 686 is a brick! If I were going to carry a revolver for hiking, I'd go with a K frame or a Security Six.

 

[jmr40]

I carry a Glock 20 in 10mm for hiking/camping. It offers 357 mag power in a smaller lighter package with 16 rounds on hand. My main concern is 2 legged predators, but it offers me a little extra punch over any other pistol round in the rare event I my have to deal with black bear.

Semi autos, especially Glocks, are more reliable in dirty conditions such as hiking and camping than revolvers as well.

My second choice is a 3" or 4" S&W 629. Even though it is on a large frame they are actually lighter than the 686's and GP-100's. I carry hot 44 specials for 2 legged predators and magnum rounds if 4 legged predators may be a problem.

 

[Black Knight]

I know nothing of the M&P or the FNP but the 686 is another story. I carried a 6 shot 4" 686 as an armed security officer for a good number of years. There is nothing wrong with a good revolver. The 357 magnum revolver is one of the most versitile handguns on the market. It can be loaded with hollow points for personal and home defense. It can be loaded with soft points when more penetration is needed such as in hunting. It can even use shotshell loads if you choose. While there is no best for any one person the 686 comes fairly close to being an ideal revolver. In todays world where semi-auto pistols seem to reign supreme it is good to see someone who will at least consider a high quality revolver. If you choose a 686 check out the used market you may find a good inexpensive one there. Many police agencies issued or allowed them before the auto pistol took over and they are ready for duty again.

 

[Shadow 7D]

If you want rabbits, take a HP (as in 750+ fps) .22 air rifle, or a .22
no sense in maiming the poor thing with snake shot, which is call that cause that's about all its useful for.

 

[joneb]

I prefer a revolver for a hiking sidearm, so in my biased opinion a S&W 3-4" 5/686 or a Ruger 2.75-4" something Six would be good choices.
Here's a 2.75" Security Six next to a 3" S&W 696;

the 696 is a bit lighter.

 

[lebowski]

I think for hiking the .357 would serve you better.

I have a 6" 686p and I absolutely love it. It's a great gun. For your purposes I'd recommend the 4". The only downside is it is a heavy gun to carry, that's you're call how much weight you want on you when you're hiking.

 

[Rexster]

Any of your three mentioned handguns would work for me, but I would prefer the revolver. I tend to shoot a DA revolver of this size more consistently better than any other handgun.

I actually like a Ruger GP100 over an S&W L-frame, which the 686 is.

Nothing against S&W; I just like the older ones, pre-lock and pre-MIM, and K-frame, which is lighter than the L-frame. My favorite is a 4" Model 19.

 

[BlindJustice]

A 4" 686 - nice balance, I had one the 686P with a Milt Sparks
#AQ200 holster and 1 1/2" MS belt. I sold it to a good
friend - excellent shooter, just didn't hook up with it. JT enjoys
it a lot, his old wrists can't take the M29 he has.

I do have the Magnum frame J-frame

'Traveling LIght Option"
Model 60 .357 Mag. 5 shot 3" bbl.
Stainless Steel Cyl.. & Frame empty weight 25 oz.
plain ramp front, W&E Adj. rear.
for HD/SD it's loaded with .38 Special +P 125 gr. Gold Dot JHPs
Hiking / Camping - full house .357 Mag. and/or .38 Shotshells

or if yah wanted more rounds

CZ-75B 4.7" Bbl. .40 S&W 10 round Mag
Several manufacturers offer the 180 gr. loads
in the 1050 fps range. = subsonic - good energy
* Mass/Bore.

WIth both guns over 40 oz loaded , perhaps a good
shoulder rig, with reloades on the off side to spread the
load, Alessi Field Master would be required if I wanted
to haul around my 625 5" Bbl full underlug 45 oz. but
I do have .45 AUto Rim in 225 gr. to 250 gr. 900 fps.

Get a good rig for an L-frame

R-