So use a kydex holster
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About revolver safeties:
There are TWO kinds of "internal, automatically engaging" safeties found in revolvers today. Both work just fine.
Hammer Block: perfected in S&W guns since WW2, worked fairly well before that. Also found in a lot of classic Colts. There is a firing pin mounted on the hammer itself; there's also a piece of metal that "blocks" all forward hammer travel far enough to hit the primer. This "hammerblock" doesn't drop out of the way unless the trigger is pulled. You can thus drop the gun, even slam the hammer with a baseball bat with the gun in a vice and it won't go off.
Transfer Bar: a newer system wherein there's a frame-mounted firing pin which the hammer CANNOT hit. Literally. There's a piece of metal that rises up in between the flat-faced hammer and the firing pin which "transfers" the energy of the hammer to the firing pin. The transfer bar can only rise into position when the hammer is about to fire when the trigger is pulled. NOTE: very often, you'll cock the hammer on a transfer bar gun and the transfer bar will come up into position. BUT if you hold the hammer back, pull the trigger and then lower the hammer by hand with your finger off the trigger, you'll see that the transfer bar drops down below the firing pin by the time the hammer is about 2/3rds of the way forward. This is normal.
ANY double action revolver made since 1910 or so is almost certainly going to have one or the other. Esp. a brand-name gun.
SAs - not so. Ruger single actions made from 1973 forward have transfer bars and are safe fully loaded. Versions before that didn't have an internal safety so if carried fully loaded and dropped were liable to go off. Ruger has a free retrofit program so a lot of the older ones ARE converted. Thumb the hammer back, look in there, once you know what a TB looks like it'll be easy to spot.
More recently, the Beretta Stampede is a "Colt SAA sized near-clone" with a TB. MOST other SAA clones lack proper safeties though; some of the other Italian guns have a piece of garbage "safety" that's not to be trusted, carry these loaded one round less and lower the hammer on the empty cylinder bore like you would a classic Colt SAA.
Freedom Arms has a cool variant of the TB in the "97 frame" where the transfer bar is in a carved-out channel on the hammer, and moves back and forth with the hammer. Very slick, otherwise the same as any TB and these guns can all be carried fully loaded despite otherwise being single action. The FA 83s have a hammer block; FA claims it's not to be fully trusted but that's probably "super lawyer caution" speaking...not sure about that though, if you get one research that point.
HB advantage: since there's fewer parts making contact during firing, there's less friction, so you can run about 25% less mainspring pressure. This contributes to the nice triggers of some classic S&Ws and Colts.
HB disadvantage: if the hammerblock breaks off, the gun is a "zero safety" equivelent of an 1873 Colt SAA. And the firing pin mounted on the hammer is exposed and can break off, leaving you with a paperweight.
TB advantage: the frame-mounted firing pin more or less never breaks, which is why Ruger says "dry-fire all you want".
TB disadvantage: as noted, takes a heavier spring to set it all off. If it breaks, gun is an instant doorstop (can't fire). (Temporary EMERGENCY fix available in the field though: glue or braze a piece of flat metal to the hammer face so it CAN hit the firing pin - zero safety, but it's back in service.)
In practice, neither system has a high failure rate.
When the NYPD was transitioning from DA wheelguns to semi-autos, their rate of accidental discharge went up. You can't get any safer than a DA revolver and an SA with transfer bar isn't too far behind.
