Rifle field-maintenance with corrosive ammo -- how do the "Pros" do it?

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Sam1911

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Hi!

I lent my AKS-74 to be used in a "found gun" stage of our IDPA match today and it got a good healthy dose of fouling.

Now I know the SOP for cleaning corrosive ammo fouling and I ran great quantities of boiling water through and over every part, swabbed barrel and gas tube, etc. with hot water patches, and so forth before beginning the normal Hoppes & lube routine.

I'm NOT asking for tips and tricks of how that should be done here at home after a day at the range.

I'd like to know, though, how Eastern bloc troops, the Russians, the Chinese, and others whose armies fire(d) corrosive ammo in the billions of rounds deal with it -- especially under extended field conditions.

I suppose that part of the answer might be that many weapons belonging to these troops just aren't maintained very well, and might be all but rusted shut. (Hey, it's a Kalashnikov...it will still work! :rolleyes:) However, I have to believe that there are many professional soldiers in those armies who would maintain their weapons in fine condition.

But I've seen how fast corrosive fouling starts to attack metal. A week in combat my not afford an opportunity to boil up a few gallons of water to dunk/douse one soldier's weapon -- let alone a squad's or a platoon's, etc. Further, it isn't just the bore that's vulnerable, but every nook and cranny that might catch corrosive salts, so a small bottle of bore cleaner (like those little ~1/4 cup bottles that come with the magazine pouches) really wouldn't last through one thorough cleaning, let alone regular cleaning of a front-line weapon in a combat zone.

So what's the story? Anyone know -- especially first hand or through having trained with or served along side of professional soldiers from these countries? Do they just have buckets of old-school Russki G.I. bore cleaner they carry with them? Do they actually do the hot-water thing?

Thanks!

-Sam

P.S. -- I imagine the very same question would apply to almost any infantry weapon fielded -- by anyone -- before at least the 1950s, and would have some of the greatest applicability to revolvers, Gatling guns, and other mechanical marvels which fired black powder through intricate, clockwork machinery.

P.P.S. -- I know the smartest of our own troops clean their M-16s & M-4s religiously as often and as soon as they get a chance. But it seems to me that it's a bit different to clean bolt lugs, etc. for reliability of a weapon firing modern non-corrosive ammo, vs. the naturally reliable AK system which would quickly become a reliable, functional ball of rust if the soldier isn't rigorous in his cleaning regimen.
 
Sov armorer's manual here: http://www.box.net/shared/cu2djae1zb

Basically they used a alkaline solution for the powder fouling and oil afterwards.

The formula for the alkaline solution that I found is : "a mixture of 200 grams of Ammonium Carbonate and 5 grams of Potassium Dichromate in 1 liter of water. "

I've been shooting Yugo M67 ball and have gone thru about 2k of it. I'm using soapy water to clean off powder fouling and go thru about 1/2 an oz each time. No rust problems so far.

BSW
 
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hmm, i was actually thinking of the same question since i got my MN; especially commie weapons in the humid asian jungle.
 
That's an original question for a bulletin board.
Among so many others, the WW2 eastern front was really brutal and in sub-zero conditions, as with the Soviet-Finnish "Winter War" in '39-'40.
In Finland, so many Soviet troops from the much warmer Ukraine etc huddled around fires as Finns crept up on them.

There are so many comments that Yugo SKS rifles used in the Balkans conflict have corroded gas tubes, selector valves etc. And lots of that fighting was probably near or in cities and villages.

chuwee81: Can't imagine what cleaning took place in southeast Asian rural villages and tunnels (guarded by cobras etc) in the 60s-70s.
 
Water. Or pee-pee.

Water can't be beat, especially after shooting when the action is still very hot. Flush barrel, then clean and oil. No problem.

I'm sure pee has been used as a field expedient.
 
pour hot water down the tube; hot water neutralizes salt. or windex, will do it as well. the first has little cost though.
 
+1 to rangerruck.
Very hot water will do the job until you get home. Then, use amonia.
My opinion is that urine wouldn't work, as it isn't hot enough.
 
Edit: Sorry did not read your question thoroughly. I'm sure in the military they cleaned and oiled as well a they could and just replaced things as needed. AK's can take a lot of rust on surfaces a keep on running. The tolerances are so loose that the friction of the bullet, piston and bolt will just wipe the rust away enough to function fine.

Very hot water will do the job until you get home. Then, use amonia.
pour hot water down the tube; hot water neutralizes salt.

Again you do not "neutralize" corrosive salts so you do not need a base (ammonium hydroxide happens to be a good household cleaner) you dissolve them and wash them away (sorry it's the Chemistry teacher in me)

Corrosive ammo cleaner:
9 cups water
1 cup ethyl alcohol
1/4 cup dishwashing detergent

Dry with hair dryer and oil after.
 
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Sov armorer's manual here: http://www.box.net/shared/cu2djae1zb
Basically they used a alkaline solution for the powder fouling and oil afterwards.
The formula for the alkaline solution that I found is : "a mixture of 200 grams of Ammonium Carbonate and 5 grams of Potassium Dichromate in 1 liter of water. "

Thanks Brian! That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Seems that alkaline solution still requires quite a bit of clean-up afterwards. They're recommending follow-up cleanings every day for several days after firing, which is a fairly intensive maintenance regimen, in my opinion. In fact, their Sgts. are required to inspect the cleanliness of each weapon before the soldier can proceed to lubricate it! Obviously they take the corrosion issue very seriously.

Have to wonder how much that breaks down in extreme conditions and what the repurcussions are?

There are so many comments that Yugo SKS rifles used in the Balkans conflict have corroded gas tubes, selector valves etc. And lots of that fighting was probably near or in cities and villages.
Good point, I.O. It almost seems hard to believe that so many surplus guns made it into our hands in good condition, as most that saw much use almost certainly would have suffered poor care for some period of time anyway. I've seen rifle's bores start to rust overnight, and blooms of chunky rust form in a gas tube in just a few days without cleaning. Hunkering down in a trench somewhere for even a few days/weeks would almost certainly lead to unavoidable permanant damage. Though, as always, the AKs and SKSs and Mosins are certainly likely to still do their jobs...

chuwee81 said:
Can't imagine what cleaning took place in southeast Asian rural villages and tunnels (guarded by cobras etc) in the 60s-70s.
Exactly! Can't exactly picture most VC living in tunnels on half-a-cup of rice a day, really stressing over not getting enough alkaline fouling solvent. Maybe dunking it in the river sometimes and lubing it with deisel fuel and tallow or something. Probably once a month at best.

If you've been shooting, the barrel should be plenty hot enough.
Yes, at the range. But what about in a combat situation? A gun will cool off within 20 minutes or so. Seems unlikely that you'd really stop for that kind of a cleaning so quickly after the bullets stop flying. You're either hiding from someone, moving, or digging your hole deeper, anticipating another attack.

From what I understand, our soldiers can scrub out the bolt lugs, clean the chamber, lube the rifle and be pretty much good to go, if that's all the cleaning they have time for. They don't have to worry that if they don't detail strip the weapon and scour every surface it will rust up overnight. Not to mention, much better surface finishes on the metal, Aluminum receivers, etc. which would help avoid the rust bunnies.

-Sam
 
After shooting corrosive ammo I clean and oil at the range. The next day the rifle gets stripped again and checked for any rust from fouling that I missed the first time. About a week later I check for rust the 3rd time.

I suspect, from the number of surplus rifle I've seen over the years with rusty bores, that field cleaning gets much more haphazard than what the manual calls for. BSW
 
Everyone has some great tip or home magic trick, but it's really very simple. Just clean with a BP solvent. You can't get much more corrosive than blackpowder.
 
can't say what the troops used but myself I own a Mini30 and sometimes shoot the corrosive primed ammo. I use windsheild washer fluid the 'winter mix' has more alky in it. I put it into a small spray bottle for range use the M30 is quick to break down for cleaning and fast to clean up.
cheaper than windex as advance auto has it on sale for a $ a gallon.
good bp solvent too.
 
me said:
I'm NOT asking for tips and tricks of how that should be done here at home after a day at the range.

I appreciate the suggestions, guys! But there's lots of threads on how many different commercial and home-brew concoctions we all have found will get rid of the salts. I don't really want this to become another discussion about that 'cause it's a well-worn path already.

I'm specifically asking about military practice among well-trained, professional soldiers, especially under field or combat situations. What were/are they issued for the job, what techniques were/are they taught, how do they live with the problem?

-Sam
 
I don't really want this to become another discussion about that 'cause it's a well-worn path already.

When has that ever stopped us before? :evil:

I use windsheild washer fluid the 'winter mix' has more alky in it

Again water and alcohol (methanol , ethanol (or isopropanol)) and maybe a little antifreeze (ethylene glycol). At least it's cheap though.
 
The VC boiled water for cleaning their rifles, then cooked their daily rice allotment in it. :D

rc
 
I don't really want this to become another discussion about that 'cause it's a well-worn path already.
When has that ever stopped us before?

Yeah...well, it isn't often someone posts a really original thread topic, or even a half-way sort of derivative original thread subject like this. I wanted to keep herding this one back away from the familiar roads to garner some fresh information.

I have a theory that all thread topics trend to a mean. Eventually, let run long enough all threads devolve into the "ORIGINAL TOPIC", sort of like planets eventually succumbing to the gravity well of a black hole. While no one remembers what the "Original Topic" was, along the way each thread must pass through a number of points on the route. Sure, first we'll stray into "what I use for corrosive fouling," but soon we'll drift to "AKs vs. ARs." Then it's "Revolver vs. autoloader," "OC vs. CCW," "slugs vs. buckshot, "5.56 vs. 7.62," "Trauma Plates," "JBTs," "Black Helicopters," and, eventually arching back accros the thread drift nebulae to "Tactical Wheelbarrow," before finally being crushed in the singularity that is the "O.T."

So, you know, I was, like, trying to avoid all that, see? :D

[GRIN]

-Sam
 
The VC boiled water for cleaning their rifles, then cooked their daily rice allotment in it.

Wow, and I thought my animal fat and deisel fuel lube idea was unsavory!

(But it would be pretty funny to see a mag dump or six through a gun that had been lubed like that! They could cook the rice over the fire!)

-Sam
 
what was in the two capped metal can in moisin cleaning kits?

did a clear plastic empty bottle come in the ak74 kit?
 
what was in the two capped metal can in moisin cleaning kits?
Vodka and lard---cleaner and lube.
Also doubled as a beverage and bread spread.

Smiley_Stalin.gif
smileyvault-cute-big-smiley-static-016.gif
 
did a clear plastic empty bottle come in the ak74 kit?
My Bulgarian AKS-74 parts kit came with a mag pouch that has a single black plastic bottle in it. Nothing in it...as far as I know.

I aught to go check. Better drink it to make sure it's not vodka. :what:

-Sam
 
Sam, why will no one answer your question????

You are correct, original thread idea and very relevant to all these SHTF folks, now they answer with jokes. Not funny.
 
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Sam, why will no one answer your question????

Oh, I think there were some really good answers and reasonable conjectures:

Sov armorer's manual here: http://www.box.net/shared/cu2djae1zb

Basically they used a alkaline solution for the powder fouling and oil afterwards.

The formula for the alkaline solution that I found is : "a mixture of 200 grams of Ammonium Carbonate and 5 grams of Potassium Dichromate in 1 liter of water. "

and:

Among so many others, the WW2 eastern front was really brutal and in sub-zero conditions, as with the Soviet-Finnish "Winter War" in '39-'40.
In Finland, so many Soviet troops from the much warmer Ukraine etc huddled around fires as Finns crept up on them.

There are so many comments that Yugo SKS rifles used in the Balkans conflict have corroded gas tubes, selector valves etc. And lots of that fighting was probably near or in cities and villages.

I'd sure like to hear from some professional soldiers who deal with this in combat conditions, but that seems not terribly likely to happen, so I'm satisfied with the answers that folks have offered.

very relevant to all these SHTF folks
And I'm not sure this is specifically true. As many folks have pointed out, there are lots of ways to adequately care for these rifles with products and chemicals (water!) that we can get fairly easily or would have on hand, even in SHTF situations. I was specifically asking about products and/or instructions given to foreign combat troops -- neither of which might reasonably be available to any of us in a SHTF situation.

-Sam
 
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