RMR MPR vs flat point 124 gr 9mm

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Erief0g

Erief0g

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Charlotte, NC
Never know if there will be a veteran's day sale or black Friday sale. Regardless I'll be making an order for at least 3k bullets. I'm down to 2k of the mpr jhp bullets. I primarily shoot paper due to outdoor shooting areas are limited in my location so my steel stays freshly painted.

If I'm not worried about loading for hunting or defense would your experience say more to the truncated flat point match winner bullets? My goal is accuracy.

The jhp have been incredibly accurate for me. Is always a chore for my OCD to change something that works.

Thoughts?

Shooting these out of the following
springfield xds 4'
Cz sp01 tactical
Cz shadow 2
Sig p320 vtac

Currently using titegroup as my 9mm powder as I've still got about 6lbs left.
Others on the shelf are
Bullseye, unique, power pistol, 231, trail boss
 

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For me it was a close call between the FN FMJs and the MPRs.
MPRs were maybe a tiny bit better.
A + of the MPRs is they are JHPs and could be used in case of a Zombie attack:)

I think you would be happy with the FN FMJs as well.
The only way to see what works best for you would be to try some. (typical response, but it's true)
 
I’ve been shooting both and would call it a draw both loaded same COL same powder. Very very close I’m not sure if I’m a good enough shot to tell the difference shooting unsupported.

Maybe the slightest edge to the MPR & as Dudedog said they can be used for Zombies ‍too!

They are the best shooting 124grain projectiles I own and as long as they are making them I’ll be buying them.
 
I've been using both with Bullseye and have found them to be equally accurate. They are both excellent bullets and you can't beat the prices.
 
I make them. I see every single customer feedback email and have sold millions of them. I personally like the Matchwinners for accuracy. It isn't that the MPR's aren't as accurate, but the Matchwinners are less picky. They really seem like they don't care what you load them with. They just like everything. The MPR's can take a little more work to find a good load but they are still great bullets.
 
A lot of testing with 115 gr. , 124 gr. and 147 gr. with SWC , RN and the flat point truncated cone has lead my all around preference, with accuracy being most important, To be the original Luger design,
the 124 gr. TC. Accurate, the flat point has greater impact and the middle weight allows decent velocity , they feed well and cut clean holes in paper targets. I did a lot of testing before coming to this conclusion.
Gary
 
So far the TCFP has given me better accuracy in both 9mm and 357sig. If you are concerned about lead exposure, then maybe the MPR will be the way to go. Ask Dudedog about it. I have to watch the pennies, so I mostly load the RMR 9mm 124gr truncated cone flat point matchwinner.

You can't go wrong with either one of them.

Have you ever shot a 1 gallon water jug with a JHP? Well, the MPR shot from a 357sig puts up an impressive show.
 
Lead exposure is not a big issue for me. Indoor range has a top notch air system. Best test was 44 mag clouds getting pulled down range after each shot.

Dlead wipes at range and dlead soap at home. Don't touch face, food, or anything other than gun related project until hands washed.

I can't wait to find some affordable land so I can shoot outdoors again. Got about 10 different steel targets that only get used during my yearly trip to the family cabin in tidioute pa.

Back on topic though. It's pretty obvious we're extremely fortunate to have this vast knowledge AND the owner of RMR here to help advise.

Thanks all
 
I'm kind of with you, when I find something that works, I tend to stick with it, and I love the RMR 124 gr. MPR bullets. I also load them over TiteGroup and find them to be great shooting bullets in all of my guns. Never actually tried the flat point match winners, but I am sure they are great as well. I just ordered another 3,000 of the MPRs a couple of days ago. Thanks Jake!!!
 
Erief0g,
if you shoot a lot indoors I would get your Doc to check your lead levels even if you think the range is fine.
(note: some states/counties require high levels to be reported to the state/county....so much for HIPPA)
Most insurance will cover it if you have insurance.
I thought my range was ok, passed the lighter test flame goes down range, smoke goes downrange.
I had my levels checked because someone here suggested it and they were sky high, chelation level high, but I felt fine.
I told my Doc why I wanted them checked and he thought I was a little nuts but checked them anyway. Over 80 ug/dl.:eek:
Some of the research I did seemed to show that most of the absorbed lead is inhaled, so unless your are wearing a mask you can get exposed even if you wash your hands etc.
The range can have good air flow but if they recirculate dirty air it does you no good.
Lots of cases of high lead levels being traced to indoor ranges. Can they be done right, Yes, can they be done poorly yes for sure, #s seem to indicate a lot are not done right.

I traced my cause to the indoor range after a forced shooting timeout. levels down, ok, reloading again and shooting outdoors ok, couple trips to the indoor range and levels were up again.
I don't go there anymore.

Sorry if I sound preachy, but I have been down this road and it is not fun.
The only way to know is to check, if you are ok, Great, if not then you need to find the cause and do something about it.
Hopefully your range is one of the good ones.
 
Point taken. I'll get that checked. My dad years back used to get with three of his buddies and cast bullets in the garage for hours every two weeks. Had his lead levels tested and had to make some changes, that little fan wasn't cutting it.

I'll get with my doc and set it up.
 
Dudedog said:
Erief0g,
if you shoot a lot indoors I would get your Doc to check your lead levels even if you think the range is fine.
(note: some states/counties require high levels to be reported to the state/county....so much for HIPPA)
Most insurance will cover it if you have insurance.
I thought my range was ok, passed the lighter test flame goes down range, smoke goes downrange.
I had my levels checked because someone here suggested it and they were sky high, chelation level high, but I felt fine.
I told my Doc why I wanted them checked and he thought I was a little nuts but checked them anyway. Over 80 ug/dl.:eek:
Some of the research I did seemed to show that most of the absorbed lead is inhaled, so unless your are wearing a mask you can get exposed even if you wash your hands etc.
The range can have good air flow but if they recirculate dirty air it does you no good.
Lots of cases of high lead levels being traced to indoor ranges. Can they be done right, Yes, can they be done poorly yes for sure, #s seem to indicate a lot are not done right.

I traced my cause to the indoor range after a forced shooting timeout. levels down, ok, reloading again and shooting outdoors ok, couple trips to the indoor range and levels were up again.
I don't go there anymore.

Sorry if I sound preachy, but I have been down this road and it is not fun.
The only way to know is to check, if you are ok, Great, if not then you need to find the cause and do something about it.
Hopefully your range is one of the good ones.
Click to expand...

Here is my experience. We deal with lead every single day. We touch it and work with it EVERY day. Dudedog is correct that most lead exposure is inhaled. We get checked from time to time and our lead levels are totally fine. We don't just handle lead exposed bases, but we handle the entire core, the grime that comes from cleaning our machines, and we load and shoot our own bullets by the thousands. While plated bullet companies have been really good at blaming lead poisoning on exposed lead based bullets, the truth is that the primer is the more likely culprit. Non-toxic primers are a relatively new invention and they are still quite uncommon in the ammunition industry. Primers made with lead styphnate produce lead vapors that are easily absorbed into the lungs and directly into the blood stream. What I need is someone with lead measuring techniques to do a comparison between FMJ bullets and plated bullets in a laboratory. Somehow, after all these years dealing with lead, I have managed to avoid lead poisoning. That said, I have never shot at an indoor range.
 
longdayjake said:
the truth is that the primer is the more likely culprit.
Click to expand...
I have no doubt they are large part of any lead that can be inhaled and absorbed, but it can't be all of it.

I prefer to mostly use bullets with no exposed lead, and have for quite some time. YMMV of course.

I did just buy 1K of your 124 Gr TrFP Match Winners, and they shoot very well at both leisurely and full power velocities. Good stuff.
 
Sorry if off thread, but sort of important to all shooters and reloaders.

PS: My Doc now advises his patients who he knows shoot indoors to get their levels checked.
Only two indoor ranges in town, same company, same issue I would imagine.
Doc wouldn't say if any other patients had issues but at a later date he did tell me he was sure glad I told him what I thought the cause was so he could pass the info on to other patients.

What I found was primers, small pieces "splatter" from the steel backing and vaporized lead from the base of the bullets were the culprits at the indoor range. (dirty air)


All can be dealt with at an indoor range with proper airflow and filtration.
Lead ingestion is also a culprit but usually not an issue for adults who exercise proper precautions.
The issue with the vapor is it is easily absorbed thru the lungs.

There was a test I found someplace comparing lead bullets with jacketed bullets in a .38 revolver in a closed area. The lead bullets created much more airborne lead.
I am not panicked about exposed lead bases, (or lead bullets for that matter), indoor ranges don't make me panic but are a cause for concern.
If I went there and shot for 1/2 hour once a month I might not have had issues, but I went 3 or 4 times a month for an hour or two at a time=Problems.

Dust from dirty dry tumbling media can be an issue also.

BTW 0 is ideal anything over 10 ug/dl is cause for concern over 20 sets off the alarm bells. Got calls from the State, junk in the mail, a video telling me not to eat lead paint.....
Other non shooter family members checked no issues do to paint, pipes, cheap Chinese dishes with lead glaze etc.
 
Last edited:
Any pet loads for either of these bullets with hodgdon titegroup?
Sold my p320 so will be shooting out of Cz sp01 and shadow 2 as well as occasionally from an Xds

Current research points me to this
Titegroup powder showing 3.8 to 4.2 in lee book with 125gr jhp 1.075 oal.
2017 hodgdon book says 4.4 max with 125gr fmj
Notes from my dads reloading book. His work ups 3.4 to 4.4 gr powder.
Initial testing will plunk a few lengths then load up some 3.8, 3.9, 4.0, and 4.1


—————————————————————————————————————-
For comparison below is a load I’ve run for the last 5000 rounds or so.
I have finally exhausted my xtreme 115 hp loaded to.
Xtreme 115 grain hollow point.
1.090 O.A.L. with 4.2 grains of titegroup. This load did great. I could keep 100 rounds within a 3 inch circle at 30 feet shot at a fair pace mag after mag.
 
Please take any advice with a grain of salt, I assume no liability for errors, etc. Always start low and work up to loads and test them in your gun, which is different than my gun.

I load the RMR 124 gr. MPR rounds to 1.10" under 4.1 gr. of TiteGroup with mixed brass and CCI 500 primers. Works well for me in a couple of my guns.
 
Thx doublehelix

1.10 oal is right in my ballpark. Going to mock up a couple lengths to see how they plunk. Hope by next weekend I’ve got a good accurate load and will be able to crank out 2k or so. I need to switch over to 44mag as I’m low but want my 9mm stocked back up before conversion as after 44 I’ll do some LP 45acp as well.
 
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