roll crimping and cannelure

[reloadall]

Hello,

I'm new to reloading. I've just reloaded my first batch of 38 special and followed the data on the lyman's reloading manual. It states that the round must be an overall length of 1.470". This is exactly what I did. Then I roll crimped each round.

The problem is that with this overall length, I did not seat the bullet to the middle of the cannelure. In fact, I didn't see it in the cannelure at all, it's seated just under.

Do I have to throw out this batch? Is there potential harm the roll crimping die?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[EddieNFL]

I haven't loaded .38SPL in decades, but If I check a manual, I'm bettin' 1.470" is the max OAL.

 

[Walkalong]

You didn't hurt anything.

Next time load the bullets so that the case mouth is centered, or a hair past (going up) the center of the cannelure for crimping into it. Don't worry about trying to get a certain O.A.L., just crimp into the cannelure and you have your O.A.L., whatever it turns out to be.

Some crimp pics.

Welcome to THR

 

[reloadall]

That was fast!

Thank you for the information! I'll go ahead and fire these and be sure to load to the middle of the cannelure the next time.

Thank you.

-Mike

 

[EddieNFL]

Just checked a manual and it has been a while. SAAMI spec for .38SPL is 1.550". I did see a load with a recommended OAL of 1.470". Follow Walkalong's advice.

 

[rcmodel]

Unless you used the exact brand & weight bullet Lyman used, the 1.470" OAL is meaningless.

They show 1.470" for:
125 grain Hornady JHP
140 Grain Speer JHP

Unless you used one or the other of those exact same bullets, you can't go by what the manual says the OAL should be.

Anyway, with revolvers, just load to the cannulure on jacketed bullets, or crimp groove on lead bullets, and crimp them like Walkalong says.

Whatever the OAL turns out to be is what it is.

rc

 

[BADUNAME37]

When you fire them, carefully look at the remaining ones in the chamber, as if you have high recoil and not a good grip of the crimp in the cannelure, the bullets may jump from inertia. If that happens and they jump too far, you may get your cylinder all bound up and if they fall off the brass, powder will be everywhere which could then EXPLODE.

 

[reloadall]

Inspector, thank you for that advice. I'll check after every shot for the first dozen or so rounds to make sure none of them have become unseated.

 

[Randy1911]

If a jacketed bullet has a cannulure, I always crimp to the center of the cannulure. Never had any problems.

 

[EddieNFL]

...powder will be everywhere which could then EXPLODE.

I disagree. Smokeless powder doesn't explode, it burns. Containment causes it to burn rapidly. Spilled powder will burn, causing a flash and burns to anyone close by. It may bind up the action.

Spilled powder should not be ignored, but I don't want a new loader to be afraid he's going to martyr himself.

 

[Walkalong]

When not confined, smokeless powder does not burn very fast at all. DO NOT light a thick pile of it, as it can throw burning powder around. Spread it out in a thin layer.

 

[EddieNFL]

DO NOT light a thick pile of it, as it can throw burning powder around. Spread it out in a thin layer.

When I was a young, broke, no-rank GI, I came into a stash of pre-WWII .30/06 ammo. I wanted the brass and bullets, but didn't want to fire it because of the primers. I pulled the bullets and dumped the powder in a container. I dumped the powder out back and tossed a match on the pile. I was smart enough to stand back, but I did have to extinguish several small yard fires. Ah, youth!