ruger marK III problems help

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cdpII

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Hi i just bought a ruger mk III target model and shot about 200rds out of it when i got home i started to clean it. I removed the mainspring housing and then tried to pull the slide back just as the book showed but the slide only came back about an inch, so i reinstalled the mainspring and tried again but the mainspring is now jammed also it only moves out about a half inch. does anyone know what is wrong/ how to fix it?
 
I have a Mk3, it is just a PITA to re-assemble.

Here is how I fix my problem. After 2 hours of trying to fix it and cussing my head off and getting mad, I take a break. Hit the bathroom, sit down, relax, eat.

Come back an hour later, calmly try again, and it generally goes back together quick and easy.

If it helps you, great. If not, well, you can join me in hating the pistol anyway.
 
After fighting a Mark III to a stand still I asked THR member CajunBass how to reassemble the MarkIII. It' really simple. The problem is with the little white metal spur that hangs down in front of the mainspring assembly. When you reassmble it put the slide in. Put the magazine (clip) in. pull the trigger. push the firing pin all the way forward. make sure the little spur is hanging down, not trapped somewhere. push mainspring assembly in. point pistol at ceiling. close.
 
(Pssst, a Mark II or III doesn't have a slide, I assume you mean the bolt.) Two things stop the bolt from coming out of the receiver..........the first is leaving the magazine in the gun. The second is if the hammer is up in the bolt in the fired position.

The first one is solved easily enough. The second one is solved by putting the empty magazine in the gun, pulling the trigger and holding the gun up shaking it so the hammer falls flat or with the mainspring out, sticking a small screwdriver in to pull the hammer down. If you do this, just make sure the hammer strut doesn't get stuck behind the frame crosspin or you will be pushing and shaking to get it loose again.
 
Yes, your problem is the hammer is partially cocked and preventing the maispring from opening. Go to my troubleshooting Web help page http://www.guntalk-online.com/TroubleshootingPage.htm and follow the remedies for step #1. Also with a Mark III pistol you will have to insert an empty magazine to move the bolt or drop the hammer - that pesky magazine safety disconnector! When you go to remove the receiver remember to remove the magazine or the two components will not separate.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye

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I've taken mine apart and put back together several times. I use the owner's manual every time. It really is not so difficult, but you have to remember to follow every step. I've been pretty stuck a couple of time, even gave up for a night one time.

Bullseye is right, the problem assembling and re-assembling has always been the trigger, either forward when it should be back or the other way around.

The other step that has given e problems is replacing the upper on the lower. Is they're not aligned right, you wont be able to replace the bolt stop in place. I basically use a robber mallet on the muzzle while the pistol is pointed up to get it in the right spot. I know this is probably not the most advisable way of getting done, but it sure is the most efficient.
 
I have taken my MK III apart and reassembled it many times, the first time it was difficult, after that first experience, I learned how the pistol functions, and now it takes me only 5 minutes to reassemble. Not a big deal at all.
 
After many, many disassemblies/reassemblies, I finally got fed up with pounding the upper on with a mallet and doing nice things to scopes and optics I'm too lazy to keep unmounting/remounting. A nice wide marker, a set of files, and some ScothBrite to tidy up finally allowed me to actually stay sane (-ish). Some MkIII's will virtually never loosen up by themselves. I can't deal with something that requires a mallet for field stripping. Working on it a smidge at a time, it now takes only a firm grip, strong hand pressure, and a wiggle to get the thing back together. (Obviously, you want to be careful with this --- too much off is toooooo much!)

As for the hammer strut --- you get into the habit of looking at it while you're reassembling. Once you know what you're supposed to be seeing, you don't get jammed up.
 
Smiley sez...!

Remember, kids, a .22 LR of any type will suffer from too much bore scrubbing! Some gun writer for one of the major magazines (can't remember which, of course) did some digging and discovered that .22 accuracy delined with more frquent cleaning.

I used to clean all of my guns everytime I shot them about five minutes after I hit the house. Nowadays, unless I'm shooting something known to be corrosive, I run a properly "lubed" boresnake through the barrel a couple of times (which is a far cry from an actual, proper cleaning,) give the action a quick blast or two with a aerosol cleaner (sometimes as simple as WD-40,) re-oil/grease the running surfaces, and wipe it all down with an old hand towel. This goes for all my handguns, centerfire and rimfire alike.

My Ruger .22s, in particular, only get broken apart for a true-and-proper toothbrush-and-Q-tips scouring about every 500 rounds. The Mk.II 22/45 is running as flawlessly as it always has. And the Mk. III Hunter is singing along just fine now that I've removed the LCI.

When you do strip your Mk. III -- as others have pointed out before me -- remember to correctly orient that hammer tang, and that in order to do that, you sometimes have to pull the trigger, and in order to do THAT, you have to insert the (EMPTY!) magazine... unless you remove the magazine disconnect.
 
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The first couple of times I tried to reassemble my MK III I got that sucker locked up so tight I thought I'd have to take it to a gunsmith to get it put back together.

I discovered that MY problem was that the hammer wasn't "falling" forward all the way. I started to use a pencil to push it into the proper position and I haven't had any trouble since.

I've never had a problem removing the "barrel" from the receiver because I've never bothered to do it. Never seen any reason to.

The real key is to simply follow the directions. Each step is important. They seem somewhat complicated at first, but once you've done it a time or two, it's not hard. I still get my copy out every time, just in case though.
 
There are a couple of reasons I take the barreled action off --- if you've done a trigger job, the sear and sear step on the hammer need to be kept clean (not as important with stock dimensions). Also, the trigger plunger tends to get gunked up, and the only way to get the "sponginess" out is to either detail strip it or hose it with something like GunScrubber.

Shooting jacketed stuff leaves the barrel pretty clean --- RNL fouls up, after a few hundred. I like "foaming gel" bore de-foulers. Pump the stuff in, leave it while you do everything else, then give it a good scrubbing with a nylon bore brush. Then patched, cleaned with whatever other cleaner du jour is around, and patched again. Boresnake in between these cleanings, often at the range.

Someone told me "a .22 will reach a level of filthiness at which it will stabilize and get no dirtier."
 
I wonder cdpII resolved his problem?

Rugers are a bit touchy to take apart and get back together the first couple of times. Their instructions are clear if only if you know what you are doing. For a first timer, they aren't that clear. Bullseye's link is particularly helpful in understanding the process. I don't think the Ruger is any more difficult than a 1911 and I hear very few complaints about those. Mine come apart after 2-3 outings for cleaning.
 
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