S&W 43 Question

[Kar-el]

I picked my wife up a S&W Model 34 "kit" gun at my local gun shop. The dealer told me my wife would like it for a shooter and once I picked it up I couldn't deny it. Paid $300 for it. It seemed like a lot but I've been trying to get her to shoot with me. She's worth the money for putting up with me....

Anyway, it came with a leather holster that stained the bluing almost a yellowish color (on what is left of the bluing-probably 60-70%). Again, it was a shooter.

So I get back home and my wife loves it. It's the only handgun that she'll take out to our property and shoot. She complains that she'd like it to look like the Python's that I drool over and that it is very hard to open the cylinder (the release does not work so well).

I'm not a gunsmith and I would like to have it reblued and refurbished to pretty it up for her.

The problem is that it has the diamond grips, a 3 3/4 inch barrel (Unusual? It is NOT a 4 inch) and the serial # is 173XX. I think that puts it after 1958 but before 1960 but I'm not sure.

So, can anyone tell me how old it is, and whether I should leave it, fix it up for her (She really likes the gun!), or sell it and buy her one in better condition.

Thanks

Kar-El

 

[BCRider]

I've shot the 34 at my local "rent-A-gun" range and loved it. By all means get it serviced so it can open the cylinder properly, get a spring kit for it if you can find one and find a set of grips for it that fits your wife's hands even to the point of having a set custom made by some local woodworking hobbyist.

The 34 is truly a delightful gun to shoot. Light enough that it has some recoil from the .22's so you know you're shooting a "real" gun but easily more accurate than most of the shooters can hold so the groups are all about the shooter's skill and not some built in issue with the gun itself. The re-blueing I would consider as optional unless it looks like the Hounds Of Hell have been gnawing on it. A few marks are not so much abuse as they are patina. But I'll admit that the border between "patina" and "ratty" is up to the viewer. Either way it's a lovely little gun. I just wish I could buy one but up here with me being a new shooter I'm not allowed to buy such a gun because it's considered "evil" due to the short barrel.

 

[Kar-el]

BC,

Sorry to hear you're Canadian.









Actually, I had a dual citizenship till I turned 21 and had to decide. My Mom & Dad were born in Canada (Fork River, Man. and Puce-by Windsor Ont.) and have been legal aliens in the U.S. since 1959.

I am sorry to hear what has happened to my folk's old Homeland. I hope that with our new administration we don't go down that road of reduced personal freedoms for the "safety" of the masses.

Kar-El

 

[peyton]

Check the ejection rod to ensure it is screwed in all of the way. The rod on mine works loose sometimes.

 

[Kar-el]

The ejection rod loosens up and I tighten it. But it still is difficult to open.

Thanks,

Kar-EL

 

[mnrivrat]

Your ejection rod may be slightly bent causing the problem. Not a big problem to let a gunsmith check it and straighten the rod if needed.

The $300 you paid is a bargin, even for a shooter these days they generaly start around $400 ,so putting a few dollars into it isn't bad. If you want it re-blued I would check with S&W for that. I think they are competitive on the cost, and there is nothing better to do with a re-blue ,than have the factory do it. (they can also service the gun and take care of that little problem with the cylinder latch)

I will admit however that by the time you have that done, I think the cost of just selling or trading up to a cleaner gun may be about the same, or perhaps a few dollars cheaper ?

 

[Kar-el]

I have called S&W and they told me that they are not working on older guns any longer.

They gave me a name of a gentleman (John something or other that I won't mention because I feel that it's his business and he knows what he needs to charge to clear a profit) that refurbishes the older guns. I called and the price seemed rather exorbitant (more than I paid for the gun).

This is why I posted this thread is to get all these ideas from folks that have gone down this road before.

Thanks, and keep the thoughts coming.

Kar-El

P.S. I called again to see if I got a different answer from another rep. This gentleman said that my gun was from 1957 and they usually don't work on guns built prior to 1958. He also stated that they most likely could not (or would not) reblue because they may break the aluminum frame when taking off the barrel.

 

[BCRider]

Assuming you've already taken the cylinder and crane apart and given it a thorough cleaning there's a couple of things to check. As you reassemble the ejector plate to the pin check that it lays down in the recess of the cylinder block very evenly. Look for a raised point indicating that the ejector rod may be bent or that there is a burr of some sort under the plate at that point. Start by laying the star/ejector plate into the cylinder without the ejector rod screwed in. It should sit down flush and even with no signs of wobbling. A wobble indicates a burr or raised point that is holding it up. Then as you screw in the ejector rod feel the plate with a finger for signs of it wanting to cycle around in the recess sort of like a wave. This could indicate that the rod is bent but only back at the threaded portion. That's a tough one to spot if the rest of the ejector pin is straight. If the star plate does wobble in this manner when you screw the pin home then you'll need to very carefully bend it back. I would not suggest doing that just by hand and eye. It would be too easy to go too far and snap off the threaded stub of the pin. A jig to do this along with a dial guage to check the runout would be the best way. A decent second option would be to note the direction and amount of runout and put a thin packing under the plate opposite the high spot and then just push the plate down with your fingers. A suitable packing would be a single layer of pop can metal. Cut out a small sliver of it to insert under the star plate in the recess. This method is far more crude but with a careful build up of force and frequent checks for fit you should be able to correct a star plate misfit if this is the issue.

Another possible cause could be a bent crane. Again some care, jigs and dial indicators would be needed to check the crane for correct alignment and to do any corrective bending. Check the track that the star plate center pin makes as it travels into the center hole to see if you can notice any signs of it running high or low.

Hopefully it's none of these issue and instead just a few particles of powder residue that are stuck between the star plate and cylinder or at some point that it's not letting the center pin properly snap into place. I watched a guy shooting revolver at a steel plate speed shoot suffer from this all day. He got pretty good at ejecting, loading, sensing the jam, dumping the cartridges, whipping out the brush to clean in that area and re-loading with a second speedloader and then continueing to shoot. I think we all felt for him that day since it happened pretty regularly once it started.

In any event it sounds like you're going to learn to be a revolver smith if for no other reason than need. Just take it slow and study each aspect as they come up. Just don't assume since it usually turns out to be something far more simple and obvious once it's in front of you.

 

[Jim Watson]

You have some peculiarities here.

A Model 34 Kit Gun is listed as a steel framed revolver with a 4" barrel, which is all I have ever seen. (If you don't count my Mom's 2" gun, also a catalog item.)

But if the factory rep was worried about cracking an aluminum frame (Is it really aluminum?) and if you have a 3 3/4" barrel, that sounds like a Model 43 Airweight Kit Gun.

If made in 1957, it may not have a model number marking, that was the year they assigned model numbers and I have read they did not get them on all guns until 1958. Does it or are you going on the seller's description or other source other than the gun itself?

If it is a steel framed revolver, Ford's has a good Internet Reputation for rebluing. They will also anodize aluminum but there would still be the disassembly-reassembly risk of breakage.

If aluminum, you might be limited to one of the spray and bake coatings. There are some fairly glossy ones, but I doubt any will be as bright as Colt Royal Blue.

Any good S&W 'smith could study the stiff opening complaint, I just don't have personal experience with anybody still in operation.

 

[dbracin]

It does sound like a model 43 and not a model 34. My model 43 box calls it a 3 1/2 barrel, but I have not measured it.

 

[krs]

My Model 34-3 2" all steel square butt revolver, .22 LR. Is this what is under discussion?

 

[rcmodel]

How are you measuring the barrel?
Revolvers are measured from the front face of the cylinder to the muzzle.
Mine measures 4", or 3 3/4" when measured from the rear of the frame to the muzzle. That's not the way you measure them.

Your serial # makes it older then mine. Yours would be about 1956 or 1957.

It is a modified I-Frame, not the longer cylinder J-Frame of the later ones.

My 1958 Model 34 4" Kit Gun.


rc

 

[krs]

That's a 1958, rc?

I'd a thought maybe 1953, with the flat latch.

 

[rcmodel]

No, the flat latch was used on them until 1966.

Changed from Modified-I to J frame in 1960 with the 34-1.

First stamped the 34 model number in the frame in 1957.

Mine came in a .22/.32 Kit gun box, with Model 34 inside the frame.

rc

 

[krs]

/rcmodel/KTOG/Model1953KitGun.jpg


OK. I cheated though, and you misnamed your photo...

 

[rcmodel]

NO, it actually is a Model 34, The Model of 1953 .22/.32 Kit Gun according to SCoS&W book three.

I have a photo of a later J-Frame model 34 on there too, so it was less confusing to call it what it is.

rc

 

[krs]

OK, got it. I didn't see any of the other photos you may or may not have in photobucket. The properties click under a right click showed up the image name......is all.

This was a test.

 

[dbracin]

Nice model 34.

 

[jimk66]

S&w 34

I think if I were in a similar situation I would make the present little 34 a project and start looking for a real nice substitute that would make my wife happy.
Here's my little 34-1 kit and yep, they are great little shooters. When I'm going to the range and my wife decides she wants to go she will always ask me "if I remembered to put her gun (the 34) in the bag.lol

Good luck,
J

 

[Ala Dan]

Factory nickel, 2" square butt S&W model 34-1, with S/N M202xxx

 

[Kar-el]

Here's a pic. Sorry, I was measuring wrong, it is 3 1/2 inches! So maybe is it a model 43?

 

[Jim Watson]

Looks like it. You can tell without a doubt by touching a magnet to the frame. No attraction, aluminum frame, Airweight. Most are so marked on the right side of the barrel, my old M38 Bodyguard is. If it does not have the model number on the frame under the yoke, it is properly an Airweight Kit Gun. The Computer Generation likes numbers on everything so they call it a "pre-43."

 

[Kar-el]

No magnetic attraction to the frame. Model 43 Airweight it is. (Not marked as such on barrel)

However, the plot thickens!

Now the question is on checking out the frame I found one set of numbers on the frame 15XXX (butt of the gun) and on the barrel.

Then when you open the cylinder there is a different set (5-digit) on the crane and then where the crane latches onto the frame. 17XXX with a 2 or a 4 above the last digit.

Did I get a parts gun or one that had been repaired?

I did not notice this earlier so now the gun (I didn't check the registration-I just looked at the number on the crane) is older? Serial number 15XXX?

Kar-el

 

[Brian Williams]

Nice 43, the serial number is the one on the butt.
I also changed the title of the thread.

 

[Jim Watson]

The official legal serial number is the one on the butt of the gun. Duplicated on the barrel and cylinder of older guns. Is there a letter there, even if it appears well separated from the number?

Numbers on the yoke and under it on the frame are "fitting numbers" used for factory tracking of guns in progress to keep critical fitted parts together. Perfectly normal for S&W and not a sign of a "parts gun."