S&W Advice needed

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If you are looking for a S&W counterpart to the Python I can recommend the 586 or 686. I have two Pythons and one 686. The 686 will do everything the Pythons do and maybe more. The Pythons are considered delicate but the 686 is considered a workhorse. The 686 also has a very similiar profile as the Python. With the same barrel length they weigh about the same. They also share some of the same holsters. A Bianchi #8 will carry either just as easily as it would the other.


I gotta agree.
 
The "Python" version of the S&W would be the "Cadillac" . . . the checkered topstrap Model 27. To get the same gun with the "plain jane" finish . . . go with the Model 28. Both weapons have wonderful triggers, as do all S&W leaf spring version revolvers!

That being said, I have quite a fondness for the sleek, easy-to-draw and point K-frames. I haven't worn 'em out yet, and I suspect I never will, even though I've fired thousands of rounds downrange per year in some.

If I ever wear one out . . . I'll just buy another nice one! BTW . . .

Gosh . . . I took the family out for dinner . . . including in-laws, etc. . . . spent $300 on the tab. For less than double that amount I could buy a nice, vintage K-frame in my favorite finish/model and it would surely last a lot longer than those steaks in everyone's belly!

I look on my shooting handguns as tools . . . if I wear 'em out, I just buy another. I want the best tools and, to me, in a revolver you can't beat a S&W due to their incomparable triggers.

T.
 
I have a couple K frames a 19 and a 66 and have not had them fail after many rounds. My 686+ probably has close to 20,000 rounds fired, half magnums with no problems.

Here is the experience of another model 19 owner:

http://www.gunblast.com/Butch_SW-Model19.htm

I like Smith triggers better than colt triggers, I would recommend a model 627PC, Its arguably the best S&W ever made IMHO, I have one and love it, and the PC version will cost less than a python and come with a lifetime warranty.
 
I had a Model 19 that cracked the frame and the forcing cone both. I'd been shooting 158 gr jacketed softnoses, Remington. Not an especially hot .357 load.

The guy who tigged the frame told me that he'd done several of them cracked the same way. The frame is narrow at that point on a K frame Smith, and you can see how it's flattened or thinner than the rest of the steel around the barrel.. I later found that Jerry Kuhnhausen has a section on exactly that problem.

Wasn't this the reason for the L frame in the first place? That a K frame had never been strong enough for magnum loads?
 
This would be #39.

..........................................

39. The Python is the top of the Colt line and the Model 27 (post 1957) or “Registered Magnum” (1935-1939) or simply “357 Magnum” (1939-1956)... depending on date of manufacture... is the comparable top of the S&W line. Some people make the huge mistake of asserting that the Models 586 and/or 686 are comparable to the Python but they most definitely are not. These models were intended to be service grade revolvers and in absolutely no way, shape or form do they compare to the quality of either the Python or the Model 27. The 586/686 bears a passing, superficial resemblance to the Python due to its barrel contour but that’s where the similarity ends.
 
Love 'em All, Love 'em all, The big and the short and the tall..... LewHORTON_M27andson.gif



Python....meh......keep 'em all.... Python.gif

:D
 
My first choice would be a N frame N27. If you want something lighter the K frame M19 would be a bad choice either. I would really try and find a M27 though.
 
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