School me on the Beretta 92FS

[Rubber_Duck]

So I just picked up a Beretta 92FS. I was issued one for a short time in the military but I remember them being pretty rough and I didn't care for it at the time or since then. Didn't have any problems with themI got a good deal on one from a friend and the serial number lookup on Beretta's website places the manufacture date around 1992.

What do I need to know to keep this gun running for a long time? For example, anybody that really knows SIG Sauer classic P-series pistols knows that the frame rails should be greased, not oiled, so I'm curious if the same applies to the Beretta 92. I also use Mec-Gar mags for my SIGs and I see that they make them for the 92 so I will likely go that route for extra mags.

 

[tomrkba]

Very accurate. Weirdly small sights. Giant grip but manageable recoil. Very large. Weird flip-up safety that is solved by locking the thumb as the grip is achieved. I'd own one.

 

[pblanc]

I have had a 92FS for around 12 years or so. The weak design point in the 92FS design is the locking block. I have not broken one or replaced mine, but they are known to suffer cracks after which one of the "ears" is prone to break off. Many 92FS/M9 shooters recommend replacing them at 20,000 rounds or so. Fortunately, a locking block kit which includes a new recoil spring costs only $35, so it might be a good idea to buy one and keep it on hand. The locking block is easy to replace. When field stripping the Beretta 92FS, I try to closely examine the locking block for any sign of cracks.

Apart from the locking block, I think it is just a matter of periodically replacing the recoil spring as for any other auto-loader. Years ago, trigger springs were known to break, but that part was redesigned and I gather trigger spring fractures are now pretty uncommon. But you can buy a spring kit with a slide stop spring, sear spring, trigger bar spring and trigger spring pretty cheaply. I don't know what year the trigger spring was redesigned so it is possible your pistol has one of the originals.

I have a bunch of 18 round Mec-Gar magazines and a couple of the "plus two" 20 rounders with a slightly extended baseplate. They have been excellent and I heartily recommend them. But Beretta factory magazines are also good to go.

Lubrication is always a matter of personal preference. I use grease on the slide rails just as I do on my SIG P229. I know others who advocate using only oil.

There are some excellent tutorial youtube videos on detailed disassembly and reassembly by a guy who posts under the name "childofjuly".

 

[FL-NC]

If you are happy with your pistol, that is what is important. I didn't care for it. Yes, use grease on the slide rails AND the trigger springs. Don't put rubber grips on it- I have seen them swell/contract in high temps, and cause the trigger bar spring to disengage. Don't lose the grip screw washers- if you do lose one or more, and put the grips back on without the washer(s), it will cause the magazine to lock in the pistol. In fact, we crazy glued our washers to the grips. If you want a "rubber feel", slide a section of bicycle inner tube over the grip. We also had great results replacing the stock mainspring with the better ones from wolf- better DA pull, and had no trouble hitting hard GI primers.If you obtain GI mags, try to insure you are getting the ones from Beretta- supposedly they are better than check mates or other brands. If it comes with a plastic recoil spring guide rod, replace it with a steel one.

 

[FL-NC]

Very accurate. Weirdly small sights. Giant grip but manageable recoil. Very large. Weird flip-up safety that is solved by locking the thumb as the grip is achieved. I'd own one.

Or just keep it on fire and use the safety as a decock only- which is how the 92G is designed.

 

[JTQ]

This is not much of a "care and feeding" video, but is a good one on the features of the Beretta 92FS from Ernest Langdon

 

[JTQ]

This Ben Stoeger video is also a good one

 

[Danoobie]

This has been one of my favorites for a long time. IME, keeping therm
well cleaned, and very sparingly oiled with REMoil, or some other light
oil with PTFE works best. One or two drops is all you need.
Graphite also works well.

They are accurate, reliable, and fun. Eat any ammo you feed it, even that
scrummy, steel cased Wolf crap. Never had an issue with my Hogue rubber
grips, but YMMV.

 

[Rubber_Duck]

Mine already came with the Hogue rubber grips, my first thought was to replace them with the OEM plastic grips but they feel good in the hand so I'm going to keep them on for now.

I've also read that people put in a "D" Spring to lower the trigger pull weight some, has anybody here done this, and if so what were the results? The trigger is pretty smooth with no stacking, I don't remember how the triggers were on the military M9s but this one is pretty good. On my SIG P226 I lowered the mainspring weight to 18 pounds and it made for a buttery smooth and consistent DA trigger so the D spring is something I'm interested in doing.

 

[Old Unc']

One of the finest autoloaders I ever owned. Its history speaks for itself. Easy to shoot, a snap to break down and clean.

 

[BSA1]

I've also read that people put in a "D" Spring to lower the trigger pool wait some, has anybody here done this, and if so what were the results? The trigger is pretty smooth with no stacking.

Installing the "D" spring is a worthwhile inexpensive improvement of the trigger pull. The "D" spring is made by Beretta and is a approved modification. It is my understanding that the M9A3 comes with the "D" Spring already installed.

I have installed "D" springs in my 92's and am well satisfied with them.

 

[pblanc]

Mine already came with the Hogue rubber grips, my first thought was to replace them with the OEM plastic grips but they feel good in the hand so I'm going to keep them on for now.

I've also read that people put in a "D" Spring to lower the trigger pool wait some, has anybody here done this, and if so what were the results? The trigger is pretty smooth with no stacking, I don't remember how the triggers were on the military M9s but this one is pretty good. On my SIG P226 I lowered the mainspring weight to 18 pounds and it made for a buttery smooth and consistent DA trigger so the D spring is something I'm interested in doing.

I have tried a variety of mainsprings in my 92FS. The so-called D spring is simply the factory Beretta mainspring that comes in the D model (DAO) 92 and 96 pistols. The stock 92FS is over-sprung with regards to the mainspring which is rated at 20 lbs. The D spring is said to be weighted at 16 lbs and most people who have installed them have not had any ignition failures with any primers.

If your pistol is US made, the mainspring should be very easy to swap. If it is of Italian manufacture, it might be a little harder. The US made model 92s have a 'dogbone' pin securing the hammer spring cap. Just push down on a hard surface with the lanyard loop to take the pressure off the pin and it should easily push out with a small punch. The Italian-made pistols often have a solid pin instead which requires a bit of force to drive out with a punch. The hammer strut will not drop out when the mainspring is removed. Just be sure you have the mainspring correctly over the strut, rather than along side it, when you drop the spring in.

Reducing the weight of the mainspring will have a very significant effect on the weight of the double action trigger pull and a slight effect on the SA pull. It is pretty easy to get mainsprings in a variety of strengths and experiment by swapping them. Wilson Combat sells chrome silicon mainsprings for the 92FS in 12, 13, 14, and 16 lb strengths. Wolff gunsprings sells reduced power mainsprings in 13, 16, 17, 18, and 19 lb weights.

I tried a 13 lb WC spring in my pistol and did have light primer strikes with Russian steel case ammo with hard primers. I currently have a 14 lb spring in it and have not had any problems.

 

[sabbfan]

D spring was a worthwhile investment in my 96A1. Took a little effort to get the pin out but was worth it. YouTube video and about 15-20 minutes.

 

[1KPerDay]

Definitely do the D spring. A world of difference. I run oil or light grease interchangeably. Very smooth, very nice shooting, reliable firearm. My P226 is about 25% more accurate with all loads I've tried, but the Beretta is still right in there. And a classic, beautiful italian design.

 

[tommy.duncan]

"I have tried a variety of mainsprings in my 92FS. The so-called D spring is simply the factory Beretta mainspring that comes in the D model (DAO) 92 and 96 pistols."

The "D" spring is a replacement for the factory trigger spring.

https://www.gunsprings.com/content/File/Wolff Trigger Conversion Unit.pdf

It is easy to replace and it comes in three spring weights (Light, factory, and Heavy). I first tried the light and then bought and installed the factory
spring. I did not like the trigger with the lighter spring. If you have a trigger with a polymer coating you need to get a metal trigger, or dremmel off the polymer coating.

"from the Wolff Spring webpage"

This product was developed at the request of the then INS (Immigration and Naturalization Service), which was largest federal law enforcement agency in the country, to solve the problem of trigger spring breakage in their duty weapons. After more than a year of development and tens of thousands of rounds of punishing testing by INS and Wolff Gunsprings, we are pleased top make this available to everyone. This product is a must for law enforcement as well as the serious shooter.

This coil spring trigger return unit requires no modifications at all to the pistol other than the removal of the factory trigger spring. The main benefit of this unit is the elimination of trigger spring breakage. Additional features include smoother trigger pulls and improved staging. This units make an already fine pistol even better!

The components are custom manufactured for Wolff Gunsprings to exacting standards. The coil spring of course is manufactured by us to our normal high standards. The cam and pin are coated with Robar's NP3® finish for improved lubricity. Each unit is then hand assembled and inspected before delivery.

We are offering three variations of the unit. The INS unit which is essentially equivalent to factory strength. A reduced power unit for lighter pulls and an extra power unit for faster, crisper returns. This is the product you have been waiting for to enhance your Beretta 92 or 96 series pistol.

 

[Rubber_Duck]

"I have tried a variety of mainsprings in my 92FS. The so-called D spring is simply the factory Beretta mainspring that comes in the D model (DAO) 92 and 96 pistols."

The "D" spring is a replacement for the factory trigger spring.

https://www.gunsprings.com/content/File/Wolff Trigger Conversion Unit.pdf

It is easy to replace and it comes in three spring weights (Light, factory, and Heavy). I first tried the light and then bought and installed the factory
spring. I did not like the trigger with the lighter spring. If you have a trigger with a polymer coating you need to get a metal trigger, or dremmel off the polymer coating.

"from the Wolff Spring webpage"

This product was developed at the request of the then INS (Immigration and Naturalization Service), which was largest federal law enforcement agency in the country, to solve the problem of trigger spring breakage in their duty weapons. After more than a year of development and tens of thousands of rounds of punishing testing by INS and Wolff Gunsprings, we are pleased top make this available to everyone. This product is a must for law enforcement as well as the serious shooter.

This coil spring trigger return unit requires no modifications at all to the pistol other than the removal of the factory trigger spring. The main benefit of this unit is the elimination of trigger spring breakage. Additional features include smoother trigger pulls and improved staging. This units make an already fine pistol even better!

The components are custom manufactured for Wolff Gunsprings to exacting standards. The coil spring of course is manufactured by us to our normal high standards. The cam and pin are coated with Robar's NP3® finish for improved lubricity. Each unit is then hand assembled and inspected before delivery.

We are offering three variations of the unit. The INS unit which is essentially equivalent to factory strength. A reduced power unit for lighter pulls and an extra power unit for faster, crisper returns. This is the product you have been waiting for to enhance your Beretta 92 or 96 series pistol.

I believe the D spring was simply a lighter mainspring but you're talking about a trigger spring now which is confusing. So is there a weakness with the OEM trigger spring?

 

[JTQ]

I think tommy.duncan may be in error. The trigger spring and D-spring (the mainspring) are two different springs.

Here's the trigger/trigger spring/D-spring kit from Beretta http://www.berettausa.com/en-us/ber...er-spring-trigger-and-d-hammer-spring/e00691/

Here's a Beretta "how to replace the D-spring" video



Here's a how to convert to the Wolff trigger spring video

 

[BSA1]

"If it is of Italian manufacture, it might be a little harder. The Italian-made pistols often have a solid pin instead which requires a bit of force to drive out with a punch."

You misspoke. I think you mean ROLL pin not solid.

The roll pin must be driven out by using the correct size punch. The best procedure is to purchase a “dogbone” (solid) pin when you order your “D” Spring. Drive the roll pin out and deposit it in the trash can. Reinstall the D Spring and Mainspring Cap. Push in on the Mainspring Cap and the Dogbone pin will easily push into place.

"The "D" spring is a replacement for the factory trigger spring."

No it is not. The D Spring is simply a mainspring that is 4 coils shorter than the original one.

 

[pblanc]

I believe the D spring was simply a lighter mainspring but you're talking about a trigger spring now which is confusing. So is there a weakness with the OEM trigger spring?

The "D spring" is a reduced power hammer spring (mainspring). The Wolff trigger control unit (TCU) is something else.

The Wolff TCU was introduced at a time when Beretta 92s did occasionally suffer fractured trigger springs, as I mentioned earlier. The redesigned trigger spring is beefier, and trigger spring fractures seem to be quite uncommon now.

I have never tried the Wolff TCU. The consensus I have gathered from berettaforum dot net is that those who have installed the Wolff TCU hoping for a smoother trigger pull, found it made things worse and went back the the factory trigger spring.

The trigger spring, hammer spring, trigger bar spring and slide stop springs on the Beretta 92 are pretty easy to replace. The sear spring is a bit trickier. If you are concerned about it, I would just swap those springs out.

 

[pblanc]

"If it is of Italian manufacture, it might be a little harder. The Italian-made pistols often have a solid pin instead which requires a bit of force to drive out with a punch."

You misspoke. I think you mean ROLL pin not solid.

The roll pin must be driven out by using the correct size punch. The best procedure is to purchase a “dogbone” (solid) pin when you order your “D” Spring. Drive the roll pin out and deposit it in the trash can. Reinstall the D Spring and Mainspring Cap. Push in on the Mainspring Cap and the Dogbone pin will easily push into place.

"The "D" spring is a replacement for the factory trigger spring."

No it is not. The D Spring is simply a mainspring that is 4 coils shorter than the original one.

Yes, it is a cylindrical roll pin. And I agree that swapping it for a dogbone hammer spring cap pin is definitely worthwhile, especially if one plans to swap out hammer springs.

 

[tommy.duncan]

I think tommy.duncan may be in error.

You are correct, tommy.duncan is wrong.

 

[Rubber_Duck]

Thanks for the clarification guys. At this time I'm only interested in the D spring to lighten up the DA pull a little bit. And probably a new recoil spring.

 

[BSA1]

Just replace the recoil spring every 3,000 rounds if you are shooting hot loads and every 5,000 rounds if you are shooting non-+P target range ammunition.

 

[Rubber_Duck]

Thanks, I'll stick to 5k intervals as that's what I do for my SIGs as well.

 

[Overkill870]

I love my M9. I've had it for a few months. It is capable of outstanding accuracy and reliability.

If you are the type that like to keep spare parts on hand get a spring kit, a spare locking block and a couple extra recoil springs. Keeping the recoil spring fresh will help keep the locking block in good condition.

The D hammer spring is a no brainer. Definitely worth it.

I also highly recommend the "G" conversion kit. This is made by Beretta. It turns the safety/decocker into a decocker only. The safety is completely unnecessary with the double action mode. I carry mine and I like this because I don't ever have to worry about getting a dead trigger due to the safety getting accidentally engaged. You can install it yourself just look up some youtube install videos. Link:

http://www.berettausa.com/en-us/beretta-g-lever-kit/

For lube, I use Super lube synthetic grease. Probably not necessary, your standard gun oil will be fine. I like it because it stays in place, is very slick, non toxic, and cheap.

The mec gar 18 and 20 round mags are awesome. I carry 18 + 1 with a 20 round reload. I have also had good luck with USGI surplus mags that I got for dirt cheap. I just disassembled, cleaned, and inspected them, and replaced any weak or rusted mag springs. It's nice having a pile of range mags and have had no issues even out of the infamous checkmates.

One of my favorite guns.