shortage of guns

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For sure a brass framed pistol can last a lifetime and some if loaded mildly. From what I’ve seen all too often said is that 20 grns is about max, though there was someone who claimed a lot of shooting with 25 grns and all being well. I’ve never seen anyone suggest a Spiller & Burr be downloaded and it’s max is about 20 grns with a ball, same with the brass Remington .31. But I also wouldn’t shoot anything but round balls either as heavier projectiles add to the stress and pressures.



Im new to guns and black powder in general.. but im also not stupid and i can see how problems would happen and how yo fix them.. Always been good with that and my hands.. Being a mechanic working on classic cars helps alot too.

I bought two 1851 navy lil over a month ago at cabelas/bass pro. One brass. One steel. 44 cal.

Then i read things online about the brass guns wearing out fast due to the powder charges. Ive watched many videos and read many opinions. And most of them are all wrong. there isa guy on youtube. Some survivalist whos into bp. He made a video on why the brass goes bad and wears out.. His name was blacky something i cant remember the full name.

im not saying he doesnt know more than me when it comes to survival stuff.. but he was way wrong on why the nrass wears out. He said th3 brass wears out because the teeth on the cylinder wear into the brass frame when fired.

No.

The issue with the brass frames is cylinder gaps. If you have a loose cylinder that is able to go foward and back and click click fairly easily. Than the gal is too large. You dont even have to measure with a feeler gauge to tell this. I had a huge gal on my brass frame. And after only 48 rounds i noticed the cylinder that rotates on the brass ring of the frame of the gun was pounding half moon shapes into the brass ring. This was using 25 grains.

I say jalf moon shaoes because well th3 nipples are there and the cylinder is cut into half moons there and that rotates on the brass ring on the frame.

Anyway the reason th3 brass is getting pounded is due to the large cylinder gap from the cone of the barrel. The cylinder is pushed foward when you cock the hammer. And then when you fire the cylinder is slammed back against the frame ring.

This peens out the brass and will eventually create a larger gap over time. The way you can solve this issue is by filing down your arbor or the cylinder pin as i call it. Just slightly to decrease the cylinder gap to the cone of the barrel.

If you file too much and cause the cylinder to jam when cocking. You can file the barrel cone a little to fix it. It wasnt hard for me to figure this out. And when i did it i have only owned a bp gun for 2 weeks.

After i fixed th3 cylinder gap the cylinder no long bangs foward and back anymore. This in turn will keep the steel cylinder from pounding hard on the brass ring like a giant sledge hammer. If its sitting against the ring flush it cant pound it.

I polished the half moon shapes off to get a clean surface. Then went to the range twice. Fired 30 grains. So far over 100 rounds. I see no more half moon shapes. Because the cylinder isnt punching in the ring anymore.

My 1851 navy are 44cal.. 18 grains is just nothing.. Min id load is 25 at the range but thats just me.. so far ive fired about 400-500 rounds through the brass frame.. and its all been 25 and now 30 grains. The brass hasnt wore out at all since i decreased the cylinder gap. The brass is also 180$ lol. If i wear it out aftwr 2000 rounds. ill buy another. but so far i dont see that happening.

Plus 30 grains makes a bigger boom than 18 grains.. and i love the reactions at the range when people hear and see that kaboom. Because they have never seen a bp gun before
 
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Good for you!! Correcting the arbor and barrel to cylinder gap is the best thing you could do on both pistols, now you outta do the timing and add a bolt guide and really make them nice!
 
Im new to guns and black powder in general.. but im also not stupid and i can see how problems would happen and how yo fix them.. Always been good with that and my hands.. Being a mechanic working on classic cars helps alot too.

I bought two 1851 navy lil over a month ago at cabelas/bass pro. One brass. One steel. 44 cal.

Then i read things online about the brass guns wearing out fast due to the powder charges. Ive watched many videos and read many opinions. And most of them are all wrong. there isa guy on youtube. Some survivalist whos into bp. He made a video on why the brass goes bad and wears out.. His name was blacky something i cant remember the full name.

im not saying he doesnt know more than me when it comes to survival stuff.. but he was way wrong on why the nrass wears out. He said th3 brass wears out because the teeth on the cylinder wear into the brass frame when fired.

No.

The issue with the brass frames is cylinder gaps. If you have a loose cylinder that is able to go foward and back and click click fairly easily. Than the gal is too large. You dont even have to measure with a feeler gauge to tell this. I had a huge gal on my brass frame. And after only 48 rounds i noticed the cylinder that rotates on the brass ring of the frame of the gun was pounding half moon shapes into the brass ring. This was using 25 grains.

I say jalf moon shaoes because well th3 nipples are there and the cylinder is cut into half moons there and that rotates on the brass ring on the frame.

Anyway the reason th3 brass is getting pounded is due to the large cylinder gap from the cone of the barrel. The cylinder is pushed foward when you cock the hammer. And then when you fire the cylinder is slammed back against the frame ring.

This peens out the brass and will eventually create a larger gap over time. The way you can solve this issue is by filing down your arbor or the cylinder pin as i call it. Just slightly to decrease the cylinder gap to the cone of the barrel.

If you file too much and cause the cylinder to jam when cocking. You can file the barrel cone a little to fix it. It wasnt hard for me to figure this out. And when i did it i have only owned a bp gun for 2 weeks.

After i fixed th3 cylinder gap the cylinder no long bangs foward and back anymore. This in turn will keep the steel cylinder from pounding hard on the brass ring like a giant sledge hammer. If its sitting against the ring flush it cant pound it.

I polished the half moon shapes off to get a clean surface. Then went to the range twice. Fired 30 grains. So far over 100 rounds. I see no more half moon shapes. Because the cylinder isnt punching in the ring anymore.

My 1851 navy are 44cal.. 18 grains is just nothing.. Min id load is 25 at the range but thats just me.. so far ive fired about 400-500 rounds through the brass frame.. and its all been 25 and now 30 grains. The brass hasnt wore out at all since i decreased the cylinder gap. The brass is also 180$ lol. If i wear it out aftwr 2000 rounds. ill buy another. but so far i dont see that happening.

Plus 30 grains makes a bigger boom than 18 grains.. and i love the reactions at the range when people hear and see that kaboom. Because they have never seen a bp gun before

candymancan. Good morning. I think mans name is Blackie Thomas, on youtube, that you were referring to. :thumbup:
 
Yea it was blackie thomas. He was wrong on why the brass wears out.


And the timing seens fine on both my guns. I have no scratchs on the cylinders and it lines up good when cocking the hammer. Although the brass gun is way smoother.. cylinder spins fast when you spins it by the palm of your hand.. almost freely actually.. and the whole action feels good.

The steel gun. Feels a bit tighter. Cylinder doesnt spin as easily.. hammer teeth also get caught on the frame as it cocks down manually. I think i need to file down some sharp edges on the steel 1851.

As for the bolt mod ? What does this entail ?
 
The bolt guide is a piece added to prevent the bolt from moving side to side in the frame. I find it an essential addition in order to precision tune these revolvers, get a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's shop book on Colt single action army pistols. It has lots of good info,its geared towards folks with some gunsmith knowledge.
 
Those Walkers went purty dang fast at Midway!!!
Glad I have one. Like another but...oh well. Any of you guys snag one? Think initially had about 17 of em?
 
I have a 1970's "Dart imported" Walker in good condition that I am thinking of selling. I can't shoot it anymore due to inflammatory erosive arthritis. Also thinking of letting go of one of my .44 steel framed 1858's and .36 steel framed 1851's. Eventually I will have to get rid of all my .44 guns, no sense keeping what you can't shoot. If anyone is interested PM me.
 
I have a 1970's "Dart imported" Walker in good condition that I am thinking of selling. I can't shoot it anymore due to inflammatory erosive arthritis. Also thinking of letting go of one of my .44 steel framed 1858's and .36 steel framed 1851's. Eventually I will have to get rid of all my .44 guns, no sense keeping what you can't shoot. If anyone is interested PM me.
Sorry to hear Arthur Ritis has gotten the upper hand, Gaucho. Keep on keepin' on; never give up! :)
 
Traditions Muzzleloading Bullets Round Ball: In Stock: 36 cal $8.49 at Midway for anyone interested.
 
Uberti 1847 Walker Black Powder Revolver 44 Caliber 9" Barrel Steel Frame Blue; Available QTY: 14 @ $419.00 each at Midway. :thumbup:
 
Someone just bought one and it wuzzint me :cuss: just 13 left now :rofl: if i could cough up some change, i'd git anuthu one.
 
....and then there were 12 Walker's available...... the countdown is on for those interested in a new Uberti Walker at Midway.
 
It's all what you get used to, I've carried mine on many a Jackrabbit hunt. Picked up a second one 6 months ago for 350.00 used with a holster, but don't believe it was shot more than a dozen shots.
 
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