Should a 1911 slow feed?

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9teenEleven

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Should a 1911 be able to slow feed (controlled release of the slide, chambering a round) without jamming? I have two 1911s. One is a Kimber stainless ii that I am trying to troubleshoot, the other is a 1945 R.R. USGI. The USGI doesn't, the kimber does, jamming the round nose up appearing to jam between the bottom of the extractor and the top of the chamber. The reason this matters is that I am getting the exact same jam occasionally during firing with all magazines, particularly on the last round. This happens with all varieties of factory ammo.

My first though was the extractor, but after beveling, polishing, and relieving the tension, I am not so sure. I am hoping to get Kimber to fix this since the gun has less than 1000 rounds. I need to trust this gun, but can't right now. It is exceptionally accurate, and is my favorite shooter as well as my carry gun.
 
Should a 1911 be able to slow feed
Yes, it should, as your old GI gun so demonstrates.

Try taking the extractor clear out and see if the problem persists.

If it does, I would look for a sharp edge on the bottom of the chamber at the feed ramp break over. Or a very rough breech face grabbing the rim as it tries to slide up it on it's way under the extractor.

Try "coloring" a few rounds with black marker and hand feed them.
See where the shiny spots are and go from there.

Last round indicates the flat mag followers are not pushing hard enough to pop the rear of the round up. A rounded follower to imitate another round in the mag can sometimes help.
But it shouldn't be necessary if everything else is right.

This can also be caused by a shorter then normal OAL of the load, or by bullet profile.
But if it does it with 230 grain FMJ-RN, it shouldn't.

rc
 
Thanks rc. I did take the extractor completely out, and it did still do it once, but I couldn't get it to do it again on at least 20 more tries. With the extractor in, it does it on a slow feed probably 90% of the time. I actually tested long and short O.A.L. rounds and they all did it. The feed ramp looks to be ok. The follower issue is interesting, and was my first thought with this problem (it initially started only on last rounds, and is still predominantly a last round issue). I have tried wilson followers, flat followers, dimpled followers, and all different mag spring tensions. None completely relieve the problem, though maybe it is not completely unrelated. I suspect a round that has crept a little further forward in the mag (typically a last round) may exacerbate the problem, but not be the cause of it. As you said, shouldn't be necessary if everything else is right.
 
Try the Magic-Marker, being careful to get the rim & extractor groove completely colored.
Then try it.

I suspect it might be the forward clearance bevel on the extractor digging into the rim while it is still at an angle coming up the breech face.

rc
 
Well, I tried the magic marker trick. No marks that I can see in the rim or groove. There is a mark (a small line dent about 1/8" long) just below and parallel to the case mouth. I can replicate this mark with the barrel removed with a round. There seems to be a natural point at which the round will hang up, but it will not stay there. This is not to say your theory isn't correct, and the breech face and extractor are causing it to hang at this spot. I guess I just need to call Kimber as it seems like it is beyond an easy fix.
 
I asked this same question awhile back and a lot of people told me not to slow feed rounds. The gun is not designed for slow feeding. If it feeds fine at regular speed not to worry about it. I realize yours is not feeding right. I had this same exact problems until I got some wilson mags that a friend sold me cheap and have had no issues since.
 
A 1911 type should slow feed 230 gr ball with no problem.

Some are just not made to spec. The Remington Rand would be to spec. The Kimber may be slightly off.

Since it works with the extractor out, let me suggest that you find an extractor with the hook that is further from the breach face or use a small file to increase the distance. Second, EGW makes a magazine release that positions the magazine higher. That sometimes helps. Third get a Checkmate magazine with hybrid feed lips (Top Gun Supply or Checkmate.com) or Genuine Colt 7 rounders from Brownells.com.
The hybrid feed lips are tapered and position the round higher as they are stripped from the mag.

Wilson, with their wadcutter feed lips, are the worst with a finicky feeding 1911 type.
 
Well, it is on its way back from kimber. Apparently the chamber was too tight, and the extractor tension was a little off. Reamed and adjusted and on its way home. The Kimber warranty process has been very painless.
 
Undersize chambers are a constant problem, mostly with 1911s, but also those lead bullet barrels for Glocks and stuff. They like to be able to advertise "minimum match chambers" which is BS, the National Match .45 ACP chamber is the same as standard, I don't know why SAAMI keeps a separate blueprint.

I hope the reaming and extractor tinkering has fixed it.
There is a mark (a small line dent about 1/8" long) just below and parallel to the case mouth. I can replicate this mark with the barrel removed with a round.
That is the sign of a three point jam or stem bind, due to undersize chamber with a sharp mouth, a misfit extractor and some other screwups in the breechface and ramps.
 
Slow feeding can be accomplished if the recoil system is removed. With the recoil spring in place, it's hard to maintain the slide at a constant speed. You tend to hesitate as the round starts to strip and enter the chamber. If that hesitation comes just at the magazine's release point...the cartridge escapes the gun's control, and that leads to a misfeed.

Remove the recoil system, and push the slide to battery from the rear briskly, but without excessive force without allowing it to stop. If all is well, it should feed and go to battery.
 
Color me impressed. Feeds perfectly now, AND kimber polished up some crusty spots elsewhere on the gun.
 
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