should "one shot" be removed?

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I use it for all my pistol rounds also. Walk outside and spray them, let them dry for the recommended 10 minutes and I have never had a problem with it.
If your going to lick it off your fingers while it's still wet you may have a problem.
If you follow directions and use some common sense it will work well for you for pistol rounds.
As far as wiping you shells off when your done, I run all my loaded rounds through the rotary tumbler for about 10 minutes to remove what is on there.
Supposedly leaving lube on loaded rounds will interfere with the case grabbing the cylinder wall to hold it still when it expands under pressure when the round is fired.
I have no clue about that but like someone else said if it were a good thing to leave it on the cases the reloading manuals would recommend it. How you take it off is a decision you have to make.
As far as Hornady One Shot it's no more dangerous than most of the chemicals you already use and don't think about.
 
Leaving lube on a case is absolutely not the same as starting with max loads.

Opinion is just that, but it serves no purpose to slight a huge populous that does not share the same opinion.

A tried and true method of fire forming certain cases is to lube them generously. Shoot well.

I didn't say that it was absolutely the same as starting with max loads. I made an analogy that some people do dangerous, not recommended things when loading.

I didn't slight anyone. I just observed what some people wrote on their posts and stated the facts. And it is my opinion. An opinion based on what professionals in the hobby have professed for decades. When I read posts where people are doing potentially dangerous practices, I say something.

"After resizing, all traces of resizing lubricant should be removed by carefully wiping each case with a clean absorbent rag." Lyman Reloading Handbook.

"After resizing, cases must be wiped free of lubricant and inspected." Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading.

"After resizing, trimming and deburring, the cases should be wiped free of all lubricant with a cloth or paper towel. If the lubricant is not removed from the case prior to firing it will increase the thrust on the bolt lugs and while this is not always an extremely dangerous situation, a mishap may occur." Sierra Bullet Reloading Manual.

Moreover, firing a lubricated case significantly increases total case thrust against the bolt and, therefore, increases action stressing. This will decrease action life and, in extreme instances (when using loads that generate far too much pressure), it could permanently deform the action and, thereby, increase headspace." Metallic Cartridge Handloading, Pursuit of the Perfect Cartridge, by Mic McPherson.

"After sizing, wipe each case to remove the remaining lubricant." From the directions on the can of Hornady ONE SHOT Case Lube.

You do what you want.
 
Uhmmm...not according to it's MDS as linked above. The aerosol contains up to 15% "Pertroleum Gages, Liquefied , Sweetend." And the up to 20% "propietary" mixture is not specified. And it is 65% or so Hexane, which are organic compounds found in gasoline and are chiefly obtained from refining crude oil. I guess one could quibble with the missspellings in the MDS (must have been written by Generation Z), but it is MOSTLY petroleum-based.
Well then, I guess Hornady is lying because that came directly from their site.

As a side note, it seems the MSDS is talking about a process for the propellant which evaporates quickly or a process to remove impurities, not adding petroleum products to the end product. I could be wrong because I'm not in that field.
Petroleum gases, liquefied, sweetened
A complex combination of hydrocarbons obtained by subjecting liquefied petroleum gas mix to a sweetening process to convert mercaptans or to remove acidic impurities. It consists of hydrocarbons having carbon numbers predominantly in the range of C3 through C7 and boiling in the range of approximately -40°C to 80°C (-40°F to 176°F).
 
I didn't say that it was absolutely the same as starting with max loads. I made an analogy that some people do dangerous, not recommended things when loading.

I didn't slight anyone. I just observed what some people wrote on their posts and stated the facts. And it is my opinion. An opinion based on what professionals in the hobby have professed for decades. When I read posts where people are doing potentially dangerous practices, I say something.

"After resizing, all traces of resizing lubricant should be removed by carefully wiping each case with a clean absorbent rag." Lyman Reloading Handbook.

"After resizing, cases must be wiped free of lubricant and inspected." Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading.

"After resizing, trimming and deburring, the cases should be wiped free of all lubricant with a cloth or paper towel. If the lubricant is not removed from the case prior to firing it will increase the thrust on the bolt lugs and while this is not always an extremely dangerous situation, a mishap may occur." Sierra Bullet Reloading Manual.

Moreover, firing a lubricated case significantly increases total case thrust against the bolt and, therefore, increases action stressing. This will decrease action life and, in extreme instances (when using loads that generate far too much pressure), it could permanently deform the action and, thereby, increase headspace." Metallic Cartridge Handloading, Pursuit of the Perfect Cartridge, by Mic McPherson.

"After sizing, wipe each case to remove the remaining lubricant." From the directions on the can of Hornady ONE SHOT Case Lube.

You do what you want.
Note that all of those refer to rifle/bolt cartridges.
 
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...your-thoughts-and-ideas.836032/#post-10822273

There are many threads that contain posts by a well respected member that speak extensively on lubes cases.

Do you strictly follow the factory service manual for that 'Cuda? I would wager you have a different schedule, were I a betting human. The manual will probably say not to speed either.
I disagree with McPherson and Sierra about their points. Excessive Gun powder will put undue stress on an action.
Would a preference for greased door hinges, as opposed to dry, make you a less safe driver? Full well knowing, doors that are lubricated come open more easily in a crash?

There are many ways and reasons to do them. Equating a preference with a known dangerous action could be taken as an afront to one's intellect.

Machine guns have cartridge oilers and I also seat bullets into the lands, there are specific reasons for this.
 
No I don't and would like to know what is gained by removing one shot after sizing?

Nice consistently clean cases. By the time I have annealed them, sized them (I lube inside the necks), and trimmed them they are pretty nasty.
I think cleaning them before priming them gives me more consistency in my reloading and in turn better ammunition.

And the best reason is, cleaning them makes me happy.
 
Hope you guys that are worried about the toxicity of One Shot don't use Liquid wrench, WD40, spray paint or any similar compounds in your garage. The SDS are similar for these. Look up regular old gasoline. Also scary when you read the SDS. Most of HAZCOM is geared towards repeated occupational use in high volumes, storage and transportation in industrial quantities, and fire and spill suppression of large quantitiies. Hexane is the propellant. LPGs are the volatile compound that evaporates off leaving the lubricant behind. Follow the directions on the can about using it in a well ventilated area, don't lick it off your windows and it'll be fine. I've been using it for a few years from hunting loads to match ammunition for high power. It is fast, easy, and effective. I do not remove it from cases. I do apply it and allow the volatiles to evaporate outdoors, away from ignition sources, just like any other aerosol product I use.
 
I’m in the “removed from reloading area” group on Oneshot. Dillon’s lube is better IMO.

Hornady’s Unique case lube, if your a ‘doing it by hand’ kind of guy is really good though.
 
For me it depends. For small quantities loaded single stage, I wipe it off with a shop rag. It takes a couple of seconds and it easy compared to some other (lanolin, ugh) lubes.

For match ammo loaded on the Dillon, I generally leave it on. The thin film that remains is barely noticeable. I have tumbled loaded ammo in the past but am not sure that its worth the trouble.
 
Note that all of those refer to rifle/bolt cartridges.

Probably so, even though the manuals I referenced didn't state whether they were talking about rifle or pistol cases. But the vast majority of people use carbide dies for pistol so no lube is required.

But the OP's question was, "Should One Shot be removed after resizing". He didn't say if he was talking about rifle or pistol. And MY response, as well as many experts, was, "Yes".
 
I have used it for years. Only for rifle. 30-06, compared to .308, requires a bit extra if full resizing.
i do a simple wipe of the cases before trimming and cleaning the primer pocket.
 
Mods - close this thread.
The OP asked about removing the lube after resizing....here we all go about banning stuff - maybe y'all should ban guns
 
All I see is rational discussion, on all sides, on the approved time and duration case should be lubed, and the toxicity of said aerosol.

Everyone here has very valid points.



Except @WestKentucky, he likes Wheat Bread, yuck.:barf:
He is automatically disqualified from having an opinion on OneShot.




:)(Just kidding, West.)
 
All I see is rational discussion, on all sides, on the approved time and duration case should be lubed, and the toxicity of said aerosol.

Everyone here has very valid points.



Except @WestKentucky, he likes Wheat Bread, yuck.:barf:
He is automatically disqualified from having an opinion on OneShot.




:)(Just kidding, West.)
Well, I do like a Honey Wheat... a lot. Toasted and smeared with peanut butter while it’s still hot.

The whole oneshot thing kills me. Lots and lots of complaints about bad things, especially stuck cases, but they haven’t bothered to fix the formula. I’m sure that it is something else rebranded as reloading lubricant, but I have no clue what it might be. I have honestly had better luck since I raided the kitchen and stole a can of Pam from the cabinet. I will be changing lubes now though since I won’t be tumbling the lube off since I’m using a turret.
 
I didn't say that it was absolutely the same as starting with max loads. I made an analogy that some people do dangerous, not recommended things when loading.

I didn't slight anyone. I just observed what some people wrote on their posts and stated the facts. And it is my opinion. An opinion based on what professionals in the hobby have professed for decades. When I read posts where people are doing potentially dangerous practices, I say something.

Since you are so concerned about people doing something that is dangerous I am sure that you NEVER shoot reloaded ammunition since almost all gun manufacturers warn against using reloading ammunition and that doing so voids the warranty.

I have seen first hand guns blown up by improper reloads but I have never seen one damaged by not removing trace amounts of case lube.
 
One Shot case lube does not need to be removed after sizing. If a guy was able to get powder to stick in a case neck lubed with one shot, I’d love to see how - you’d have to be spraying and charging at the same time.

I also have no idea how guys stick cases with One Shot. The only thing I can assume is they incorrectly purchased the dry gun cleaning One Shot instead of the case lube, or frankly, forgot to spray it. I can’t imagine getting a One Shot lubed case stuck, any more than I could imagine sticking with Imperial.

I size 6.5 creed brass to 6 Creedmoor, resize WSM’s and Rum’s, neck 300wm down to 7-300, even 338 lap with one shot. The dry gun lube and the case lube are not the same product. It’s plenty of “slick” even for the high drag cases.

I do occasionally tumble finished ammo after loading to remove the trace lube. For example, on my 357/44’s which need DRY cases to avoid case thrust locking up the cylinder. That’s the ONLY time I tumble to remove One Shot.
 
OP's question was, "Should One Shot be removed after resizing".
BTW, a "myth busting" thread was done to test neck tension/bullet setback from residual One Shot left inside of pistol cases both dry and wet (intentionally applied thick for testing).

Test results showed no bullet setback - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...affect-on-neck-tension-bullet-setback.834035/

For me, I use Bag Balm or lanolin based lube for resizing rifle cases and wipe off afterwards.

As to not removing One Shot, consider the responses from many THR members below and ponder why they are not having issues with One Shot.
I never have.
I don't remove it.
I don't worry about taking it off.
I only use it for pistol brass and I never remove it.
I use the aerosol and don't make any effort to clean the cases afterward, however I only use a small amount to begin with.
No I don't and would like to know what is gained by removing one shot after sizing?
For me it depends ... For match ammo loaded on the Dillon, I generally leave it on. The thin film that remains is barely noticeable.
One Shot case lube does not need to be removed after sizing.
 
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...it seems the MSDS is talking about a process for the propellant which evaporates quickly or a process to remove impurities, not adding petroleum products to the end product.
Bingo! The propellant contains volatile compounds which evaporate rapidly leaving the dry lubricant in place. The dry lubricant is petroleum free. The propellant is definitely not.

I believe the same basic thing applies to the health/safety warnings for the product. The lubricant itself is pretty benign, the propellant isn't something you would want to inhale a lot of.
I also have no idea how guys stick cases with One Shot. The only thing I can assume is they incorrectly purchased the dry gun cleaning One Shot instead of the case lube, or frankly, forgot to spray it. I can’t imagine getting a One Shot lubed case stuck, any more than I could imagine sticking with Imperial.
I'm not claiming to have done an exhaustive study of reports, but most of the ones I've seen seem to be related to not allowing the spray to dry completely before proceeding with the reloading process. My take is that the volatile compounds in the propellant are very poor lubricants and until they evaporate the lubrication properties of the mix are compromised.
 
I got a couple of cans of OS when it first came out. I read the directions, shook can, sprayed liberally, and resized after it flashed off. Worked OK for me through both cans. Then the cost of it got to me and another long time reloader suggested making up a lanolin/isopropyl (Heat) mix and I have used this for years. I do wipe it off just because I put it on thick enough that handling the brass after gets things slightly sticky if not. I did leave it on a time or two with no ill effects so take that for what it is worth.:scrutiny::scrutiny: Now I am trying wire pulling lube/Heat mix and it seems to work as well as my homemade lanolin/Heat mix. It is MUCH easier to wipe off! Plus the wire lube is free as it is what is left in the bottom of the bottles of pulling lube we use at work. Should have done this years ago! YMMV
 
I'm not claiming to have done an exhaustive study of reports, but most of the ones I've seen seem to be related to not allowing the spray to dry completely before proceeding with the reloading process. My take is that the volatile compounds in the propellant are very poor lubricants and until they evaporate the lubrication properties of the mix are compromised.

I’ll give you my firsthand experience - I don’t have to let it dry to size, and it slides the same.

This “One Shot sucks” BS went around our state precision rifle club a few months ago, one of our pro PRS guys posted a call out video, he sprayed One Shot while on the ram and sized immediately. Absolutely reflects my experience with it. Wet or dry, it runs.
 
I think the boy reason I was disappointed in one shot was because I had already used better lubes before I tried it.
 
I use it wet as well.

I think it’s important to test and find things out for yourself. What does or doesn’t work for me is what does or doesn’t work for me, not you.
I use it for 223 exclusively, and 223 is the only cartridge I use if for. I have never stuck a case with it. And it has given me the best sizing consistency.

If something else works better for you, cool.
 
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