sig sauer p226 question

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thefamcnaj

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Ok guys I shot the sig p226 for the first time at the range the other day. It was a friends. He said it was the "base model". So I went on sig's website and saw that there is like 9 or 10 different p226 models to choose from. The one that appealed to me was the stainless elite p226. The one with the rose wood grips. It had a very healthy price tag. I think it was almost 400 dollars more than the black on black with polymer grips.
My question is this: Is the difference in the prices of the various p226's strictly based on the appearance of the gun or do the higher priced ones function better or have any difference in the trigger. I guess what I'm saying is if they all shoot the same I don't see the need in getting the top of the line, I could add night sites or change grips etc. down the road.
Really want one of these now but needed some advice before I went over board and paid a lot more money just for looks.
 
For the most part the differences are cosmetic.

There are also different trigger configs. DA/SA, DAK, SRT even SAO.

Stainless steel vs Nitron.

Wood Grips vs Plastic vs Hogue Alum.

Some will have night sights, some will have extra mags, engraving etc...

Sig is running the Kimber playbook by offering tricked out models of the same gun trying to appeal to every whim.
 
The SIG P226 is a great pistol and the model choice can be confusing.

Myself I like the plain Jane nitron models. You don't gain anything in mechanical accuracy until you go the the X5 series that start at around $1400 and SIG states can shoot 2 inch groups at 50 yards and are made in the Custom Shop in Germany. The plain P226s are as accurate as a combat type handgun there is.

The stainless steel frames are nice however if you do not mind that extra weight that can even be an advantage shooting at the range.

Good luck with which ever one you go with.
 
Its all mostly cosmetic, only thing I find is worth the cash is the SRT (Short Reset Trigger) and you can buy the parts for $60 from Top Gun Supply if you have a competent Sig Armorer near you to install. Although, that shiny Elite can be had for a greater percentage off retail price than a standard P226 can be if you have the "$50 over cost" deal through a range membership.

If you know you want night sights go ahead and get them on the gun, sights plus install will be more than just getting them on the gun to start with.
 
Some other things to watch out for with the P226:
1) Classic Two Piece versus Ergonomic Grip Shape
2) Finish.
3) German Made versus New Hampshire Made. I don't know the details, but people swear by the German made guns.
4) Trigger Configuration.

Easy to change later:
SRT
Physical Trigger
Grips (The wood/plastic/ivory overlays, not the shape.)
Threaded Barrel (easy to replace, but it'll cost you $200.)
Sights (well, not as easy as Glock.)

Also, if you want a mechanically superior pistol, you can get a "stock" P226 and have aftermarket work done by, say, Gray's Guns for a couple of hundred bucks. With Gray you can also decide if you want a carry pistol or a competition pistol.

So, you really can't go wrong with a standard Sig. Just make sure you get the right grip shape and finish, trigger config, and from the factory you like (Germany versus New Hampshire.)
 
The difference between your friends base model and the Elite that you saw were:
1. frame material...alloy vs. stainless
2. SRT on the Elite
3. Beavertail on the Elite
4. Elite grips

You have to decide if these features make enough of a difference to you. $400 sounds like more price difference than I seem to remember...but it's been a while, I usually buy used guns. Are you sure you weren't looking at the 226 with the .22lr top end installed
 
These are pretty guns, aren't they?

Two other considerations: The grips: Apparently the Elite Stainless grips are a bit wider, but as noted, you could change them. The availability: At least in 9mm, the 226 Elite Stainless models are a little hard to find.
 
I have the P226 with the new ergonomic grips. As if the old style ones weren't awesome enough.

I checked out an Elite P226 in the shop the other day. Seems it had some trigger work done on it by Sig and that was part of the package. But it didn't feel much smoother than my stock trigger. Sure looked pretty though. So now I have a set of the wood grips on order for my pistol.
 
If I wanted a SIG I'd look for one of the CPO models out there. They are used guns that have been returned to SIG. They go through them, replace any worn parts and refinish them if needed. They are guns purchased by LE/Military agencies and traded back in for new guns later. Many have been fired very little and are in next to new condition. Others may be older and used a bit more, but all are excellent values selling for around $450-$500 locally.

I paid $450 for one a few few years back and could not tell it had ever been fired. Other than the red box it came in it was identical to the $700 gun in the blue box next to it.
 
If I wanted a SIG I'd look for one of the CPO models out there. They are used guns that have been returned to SIG. They go through them, replace any worn parts and refinish them if needed. They are guns purchased by LE/Military agencies and traded back in for new guns later. Many have been fired very little and are in next to new condition. Others may be older and used a bit more, but all are excellent values selling for around $450-$500 locally.

I paid $450 for one a few few years back and could not tell it had ever been fired. Other than the red box it came in it was identical to the $700 gun in the blue box next to it.

Great tip for a way to get into SIGS at very bargain basement prices. My P226 and P226 both were as new inside and out and as a bonus neither had rails. I prefer the look of the P series SIGs without rails. I also bought an A+ P228 Zurich Police trade in that looked as new. Sweet pistol!!
 
I've never seen a Cpo Sig locally? Is this something I need to get my local gun store to check on for me. Also will the alloy hold up as well As the stainless will? And lastly how do I know if the Sig is made in Germany or New Hampshire. Being in the market for a Sig is some what confusing. This is my first venture outside of glock and HK which are both self explanitory. Thanks for the help guys.
 
I haven't seen a CPO Sig in a while and they definitely wouldn't be less than $500 these days with good used P226s going for over $600.

My experience is that it doesn't matter where the Sig was made, all of mine shoot great. But if you must know how to tell them apart, there are three combinations out there:

1. All German manufacture - most will be used and from the 80s and 90s although there has been a recent batch of P226s to hit the market (P226 German is the model). These have serial numbers on the slide, frame, and barrel that match and should have a set of proof marks on the underside of the slide under the muzzle. If these were sent through the CPO program the serial numbers on the barrel and slide are likely to be gone. The early ones are marked with "West Germany" and will have import marks from Sigarms. These are made differently than the US manufactured ones - they have folded carbon slides and internal extractors. US assembled P226s have a slide milled from a solid piece of stainless steel.

2. German Frame, Exeter assembly: These will be marked on the frame with "Frame made in Germany" as such. Exeter will also be on the gun.

3. All Exeter gun - says Exeter, NH on it.

Many will tell you that the new guns are substandard and over priced... if you go over to the main Sig discussion forum you'll get that impression. I have all three types, they are all awesome, and the one that gets the most use is an all US gun.
 
The best buys I've seen recently have been LE trade-in guns. I have a friend who picked up two a while back. One was listed at $399 and the other at $449. There had some holster wear, but were almost new inside...to the point that I thought the frames might have been refinished
 
If I wanted a SIG I'd look for one of the CPO models out there. They are used guns that have been returned to SIG. They go through them, replace any worn parts and refinish them if needed. They are guns purchased by LE/Military agencies and traded back in for new guns later. Many have been fired very little and are in next to new condition. Others may be older and used a bit more, but all are excellent values selling for around $450-$500 locally.

I paid $450 for one a few few years back and could not tell it had ever been fired. Other than the red box it came in it was identical to the $700 gun in the blue box next to it.

This is exactly what I did, and how I got my 226. It's the dreaded Exeter model too. But it works fine. Has a few thousand rounds through it, with ONE stovepipe and no other errors. Was that stovepipe my fault? No idea. Been at least a thousand rounds since it happened though.

Mine looked brand new when I got it as well. It didn't even have the discoloration on the barrel hood that Sigs seem to acquire quickly. Unless Sig refinished it, I have a feeling it was shot once a year for qualification, and that was it.
 
I own two Sig P226s, one is a late 80s West Germany 9mm model (no rail, carbon steel slide, import markings, etc). I bought that one used and has a few marks/blemishes, but shoots great. I currently have a pair of the Hogue rubber non-finger grooved grip panels on it. I really enjoy those early P226s. My other P226 is a P226R Elite Stainless in .40S&W. This gun is a really nice quality range gun (no Sig 210 or 226 X-Five by far, but still very nice). It came with the Rosewood Elite grips and I too found them a little thick for my tastes. I now have Hogue Extreme G-10 grips on it now and really love the feel of them (grippy, but not too abrasive at all (I lightly sanded the checkering down with 320 grit sandpaper)). I paid about $1,000 for my P226 Elite Stainless, but (IMHO) it is worth every penny that I paid for it (YMMV).
 
Many will tell you that the new guns are substandard and over priced... if you go over to the main Sig discussion forum you'll get that impression.

TOTAL bullcrap and if you look into it more closely you will see the same half dozen or so forum members harping about that constantly whenever the chance comes up for them - take it with a HUGE grain of salt.
 
TOTAL bullcrap and if you look into it more closely you will see the same half dozen or so forum members harping about that constantly whenever the chance comes up for them - take it with a HUGE grain of salt.

Probably true. Of my shooting buddies, two of us have 226's (exeter) that work fine without any issues, and three of us have 238's that work fine without any issues. one guy has like 3k rounds through his 238 and has never cleaned it, and it still works fine (dumb, i know).
 
TOTAL bullcrap and if you look into it more closely you will see the same half dozen or so forum members harping about that constantly whenever the chance comes up for them - take it with a HUGE grain of salt.
You know from your tone, I'd gather that you think I agree with the guys bashing the newer Sig Sauers which is completely false. Just relaying what one might discern by listening to others on another forum and trying to tell the OP that I have had only positive experiences with the all Exeter guns.

Oh, you're talking about the members of THAT forum... sorry... I had to stop going to THAT forum due to the lack of the good moderation as there is on THR.
 
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Go with the plain Jane sig 226 with the trigger action and sights you prefer. You will find no better service auto in it's class. I carried one on duty for 12 years, and was an armorer for it for 8 years. They will run longer than you will, and are one of the most accurate service pistols around: Just make sure you keep it lubed.
 
No MJ ATL I certainly did not believe that you agreed with that. Sorry if I implied such.

I am a member of "that" forum and am surprised at the amount of negativity about SIGs, especially when a new forum member asks for advice about a purchase and is too often told to get a different brand. When you go to a somewhat brand specific forum one might expect a little more enthusiasm about that brand's products but still appreciate frank discussion and experiences but I believe it may go beyond that. I am not going to say any more than that here and hope I did not get myself in trouble here posting what I did.
 
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No MJ ATL I certainly did not believe that you agreed with that. Sorry if I implied such.

I am a member of "that" forum and am surprised at the amount of negativity about SIGs, especially when a new forum member asks for advice about a purchase and is too often told to get a different brand. When you go to a somewhat brand specific forum one might expect a little more enthusiasm about that brand's products but still appreciate frank discussion and experiences but I believe it may go beyond that. I am not going to say any more than that here and hope I did not get myself in trouble here posting what I did.
No worries... its cool. Agree about the expectation for a bit more enthusiasm on a brand specific forum.

FYI, I just took receipt of a new P226 Reverse Two Tone with a Cerakoted frame. It has one of the best out of the box triggers on a new in box Sig I've ever shot. No need for a trigger job on this one.

OP, sorry for us getting a little off topic... anything else we can help you get un-confused about?
 
I've never seen a Cpo Sig locally? Is this something I need to get my local gun store to check on for me. Also will the alloy hold up as well As the stainless will? And lastly how do I know if the Sig is made in Germany or New Hampshire. Being in the market for a Sig is some what confusing. This is my first venture outside of glock and HK which are both self explanitory. Thanks for the help guys.

I agree CPO SIGS are much harder to come by locally though my local gun store does have some though their pricing has gone up quite a bit compared to new which makes it much less of a bargain. There are online sources such as Summit Gun Broker via their website.

An alloy frame SIG will hold up very well in maintained correctly though if one could afford the ammo they most likely would wear out an alloy frame SIG before a stainless steel frame SIG but I am talking in the range of 100,000 rounds and maybe even more.

It is important to keep the frame rails of an alloy SIG religiously well lubed with a high quality oil or grease and to be sure to change the recoil spring at least every 5000 rounds. Neglecting to do such is probably the main reason of premature wear problems in an alloy frame SIG.
 
I read where a gentleman said he got the stainless elite for 1000 bux. That's the one I want but I was quoted 1300 bux at my local gun shop. Now I'm trying to figure out which model is the cheapest and has the str in it. 1300 is a little out of my budget at this time. Having said that I want to buy new because all of the used ones at my two gun shops have seen better days to say the least
 
Here’s a photo of a stainless SIG 226 Elite that I purchased a few years back.

The (SRT) Short Reset Trigger is very nice.

At 42 ounces it is very comfortable to shoot and control.

I find that the handsome OE wood grips that accompany all Elite pistols are simply too wide to shoot comfortably with even with average sized hands. SIG OE polymer, Hogue rubber or aluminum, or Nill grips, as shown in the photo are more comfortable choices.

Although it serves a purpose, aesthetically speaking, I would prefer a shorter beavertail.

sig226_06.jpg


Here’s a SIG P226 USPSA-S Reverse-Two-Tone with Equinox grips.

sig226uspsa_01.jpg


And finally a SIG P226 X-5 Tactical w/Nill Grips and SIG JetFunnel.

sig226x5t_03.jpg
 
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