Sniper (snipper) rifle project

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RonE

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I recently posted the following to have the thread locked because of a misunderstanding and perhaps not enough clairification on my part...

Just getting started on a project and looking for a few good ideas.

What I have in mind is building a long range snipper (From a Rush Limbaugh prompter's mispelling) rifle for shooting zombies should they threaten my neighborhood. Where I live we don't have lots of zombies but just in case, I want to be ready and because the threat level is so low, I want to build the long range snipper rifle for the lowest investment within reason (yes, cheap!)

So far this is what I have in mind:

Mosin-Nagant 91/30 for the basis of the gun. About $75
BSA telescopic sight (you can get a big one for about $100)
5" sun shade for the scope....less than $10 or a cardboard tube for free
knock off Harris bipod for around $49
Scope mount rail and rings $50 more or less
plastic stock (monte carlo) with home made cheek pad for about $65
modify bolt handle for scope clearence....less than $7
Green and Black paint I'm guessing for about $30
Home made level and mount with #3 yellow bubble fluid less than a buck
Gimbled beverage can holder from marine supply store $6 (mount on left side)
Home made weather vane to determine wind drift free (mount on right side)

I plan on using a drill press, torch, hammar and hack saw for the primary tools. Also a tap for the holes to mount the scope rail. I can thru bolt the gimbled beverage can holder mount and the weather vane mount with one or two 1/4" 20 bolts (do you think mixing Russian metric with America SAE will be OK? The zombies won't know) I am thinking of mounting the weather vane on the factory cleaning rod to kill two birds with one stone. I am still pondering what to use and how to make a flash hider.

Anyway, these are my thoughts so far, do you have any ideas or suggestions? I am especially interested in anything that can reduce costs and improve accuracy with Military Surplus ammunition. I am thinking heavy ball but who knows what will preform best? I will post pictures along the way.

Any thoughts or ideas are welcome and appreciated. If anyone has built a snipper rifle and has plans or photos, please post them here.

I think I am going to call this the Long Range Zombie Stomper Mark 1, Model A or LRZS Mk1, Mod A
 
Gimbled beverage can holder from marine supply store $6 (mount on left side)

I'd skip that one altogether and use one of those helmets that hold two 12 oz cans and supply liquid nourishment through a straw (camel head?).
 
If your beer is mounted on the side of your rifle, won't that spill your beer when you set the gun down!?
That would be UNACCEPTABLE!!
 
In all seriousness, what I am sensing is an effort to cut every cost corner you can. Now while you can sometimes cut a corner and not have significant negative effects, when you cut ALL of them this way, it will add up. I'm honestly seeing a rifle that would be just as accurate fired from the sitting position with just iron sights.
 
I have a BSA 6-24x44 platinum scope it comes with 2 sunshades A 3" and a 5" and you can screw them together as a plus. mine was a 124.00 off opticsplanet.com great website good deals I would recomend getting a differrent scope perhaps a bushnell elite 3200 or 4200. they are more expensive but well worth it. i regret buying mine it has rough ajustments and the stick all the time and it seems to move the point off impact alot. DO NOT BUY IT SPEND THE EXTRA CASH FOR SOME BETTER GLASS!!!




YES to the beer hat spilling the beer would be an terrible terrible waste
Or Or run with me here people hollow out the stock and puting a mini keg AWSOME!!
 
Perfect timing...

I went to Long Range International's Long Range Hunting course last week. It was awesome!

My sniper rifle was a Savage 10FP with a Pride Fowler RR800-1 scope. I had no trouble out to 800 yards. It took me about fifteen extra rounds (total...instead of two to four for each of the other ranges) to get on steel at 900 and 1000. This was on my first try and it was very windy during that part of the training.

You don't need an expensive gun to get hits with a sniper rifle (which means your targets will be men or man-sized). Just make sure to buy a decent optic.

Here's my setup:

Savage 10FP ($589)
Pride Fowler Rapid Reticle RR800-1 ($600)
Harris Bipod ($110)
Duct tape and foam for cheek rest ($10)
Pic Rail and Farrel rings ($400)

The rail and rings are total overkill. The 20 MOA offset is just not needed. I'm thinking of changing them out for some standard low rings.

The gun is capable of the accuracy and precision required. The scope makes it easy for the shooter to make good hits.
 
Thank you for the suggestions....

MLJDECKARD - yes, tolerences add up, not cancel each other out...Good point!

SAVAGE SHOOTER - yes, I've heard rumors but I want something big and cheap for this project.

CREBRAFIX - your points are well made but my goal is to complete the project for less than your 10FP cost. (hopefully it's all in the correct ammo)

TRAVIS - thanks, I can look stupid enough all on my own.

FUNDERB - the latest technology is pop tops!
 
We're all getting a good laugh at and about the "snipper rifle", but in reality, having been a police sniper back in the early '80's, I can tell you that if you're out on a stake-out waiting for the call to place a shot, a large amount of fluid in the form of gatorade and water is often called for. I waited for 30hrs on a roof top for a shot that never came(perp surrenderd). I had to get re-supplied with radio batteries, fluids, food, and a blanket for the night hours even though the daytime temps were in high 80's and low '90's.
NOT FUN !!!!

The "drink holder" is actually a valid idea !!! But not for a beer, of course!
 
Fancyboy, youall gets yours ready and we'll have a little match hee hee hee

My "sleeper" started out as a Brazilian Model 1936 Mauser 30-06 that cost me a whole $65. Looked like it had been dropped in the Amazon a few too many times and I tried my best to keep it looking that way. Bubbaaed on a recoil pad and scope mounts, had a gunsmith buddy replace the shot out barrel with a tight chambered 06 take-off Husqvarna "pencil" barrel, put on a beat-up[but tough and sharp]Scopechief 6X and slobbered black enamel over everything. Did a little honeing on the trigger and a hidden glass bedding job before assemblly. This little ugly black baby didn't cost me much and has made more than that back on bets as she will shoot sub .5 moa with my handloads.
 
Hoot: Sounds like you have the plain Jane version of what I plan on building to look gaudy! I also plan on keeping the ammo to strictly surplus.
 
Just got back into town today and my 91/30 had arrived and was waiting for me. I can't wait to take it to the range for a test fire and then start hacking it up. I was suprised and very pleased with the condition and the smoothness of the action. Trigger pull seems good too. The bore is bright and shiney and the lands and grooves are sharp. Anyone have anything to trade for the Bayonet, cartridge pouches and sling? Excuse the messy work bench.
 

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Welcome fellow Texas.

If successful with your mods, you would have almost $400 in a $75 rifle that I doubt you could get $150 for if it actually improved accuracy over the standard iron sites. Your money can be better spent.

For to Texasguntrader.com. Occasionally you'll find a nice quality scoped bolt action rifle like a Savage for under $300. It will keep its value should you decide to sell it in the future.

If you shop and save your money, you can find really excellent values in used bolt rifles. I recently bought a Sako Tikka in .308 with a Ziess 3x9 scope on it. Came with the boxes, papers, everything. It shoots 1" all day long and better than that with handloads. It is a fine rifle. I paid $600 for it.
 
FSJ.....the point is not to make a cheap rifle more valuable, the point is to have a little fun and a minimum of cost. The parts at the end of the project will still have some value as will the action and whatever stock it has. People pay a lot to play golf and all they have to show for it is a score card too. Shooting paper targets is almost the same. I already have several high power rifles that are very accurate and one that is accurate out a long way.
 
Hey guys, I'm putting togther a rifle. Well I've already put it together and now want to make it better. The gun is a M-48 Yugo mauser presently in an Advanced Technologies Stock. Just changed out the scope to a Leatherwood M-600.(If you don't know the ART scopes by Leatherwood, you should look them up.) Now I want to rebarrel it. Need to have some discourse on Brands. I'm only familier with Kreigers. Anyone have a good experience with any others. Dave
 
First Cut

Went to the range today to function test the 91/30, it functioned fine, a little high and to the right at 100 yards with the open sights, but it functioned just perfect. My friend who got one at the same time put 10 in the black at 50 yards.:eek: We got home and I decided that if I didn't start, I might not.:rolleyes: Here are some pictures: first I took the rifle apart and adjusted the stock with my precision stock adjusting tool. The rifle looks like it has an extremly long barrel (it does). The rear sight is ugly and useless for a snipper rifle. Sight removal consisted of driving out a couple of pins, heating the base until the silver solder started flowing and then driving the base towards the muzzle with a 2 lb attitude adjustment tool and a brass drift. (If you forget to remove the set screw in the base of the sight, don't worry, it will shear right off with enough force.)

Anyone looking for spare 91/30 parts let me know.
 

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I think starting with something like a Brown Bess, Kentucky Rifle, or Sharp's buffalo rifle would heighten the ridiculousness factor a good bit.

Regardless, I do want to see the finished product.
 
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