Something Old Something New ( E63)

45 Dragoon

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May 18, 2013
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A local customer got a great deal on a Model 1851 GU (Uberti) made in 1960. It's in about as unfired condition as it could be. Thought some folks would like to take a peek at "the beginnings".
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The serial number is "E63" . . .
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with E50 as "build" nos.
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The rifling is shallow but with a fast twist of 1:15" !!
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Next, I'll post some parts pics.

Mike
 
I know that muzzleloading rifles for round balls have slower rifling twists. Is the same true for percussion revolvers intended for round balls? 45 Dragoon's comment about the fast twist (1:15) makes me curious. Would this beautiful Uberti perform better with balls or conicals?

Or would you just have to try them at the range?
 
I know that muzzleloading rifles for round balls have slower rifling twists. Is the same true for percussion revolvers intended for round balls? 45 Dragoon's comment about the fast twist (1:15) makes me curious. Would this beautiful Uberti perform better with balls or conicals?

Or would you just have to try them at the range?
The rifling in revolvers used to be 1:32". Some time around 2008 Uberti changed to 1:16" possibly because of the popularity of the conversion cylinders for Cowboy shooters. Pietta's open top revolvers are still 1:32" but their Rems. are 1:16" ( go figure !!?). That is the main reason for my revolvers being Uberti's, they're all 45's.

Very nice looking. Is that factory engraving or aftermarket?
Internals will be interesting, how does it compare to recent production?

Jim, it looks like a factory finish to me so I'd say it's a factory offering. I'll post pics of the parts later this afternoon.

Thanks guys!
 
The rifling in revolvers used to be 1:32". Some time around 2008 Uberti changed to 1:16" possibly because of the popularity of the conversion cylinders for Cowboy shooters. Pietta's open top revolvers are still 1:32" but their Rems. are 1:16" ( go figure !!?). That is the main reason for my revolvers being Uberti's, they're all 45's.



Jim, it looks like a factory finish to me so I'd say it's a factory offering. I'll post pics of the parts later this afternoon.

Thanks guys!
They did quite a bit of the engraving early on. Navy Arms sold a bunch of engraved Ubertis. That sure is a beauty. Noticed the file tracks on the arbor, is it… short?
 
They did quite a bit of the engraving early on. Navy Arms sold a bunch of engraved Ubertis. That sure is a beauty. Noticed the file tracks on the arbor, is it… short?
You have "keen" eyes sir !!! But NO !!!! They aren't mine !!!! Somebody beat me to it 🤣!!! I was going to share this later but since you asked, I'll spill the beans . . . the arbor in this revolver was correct length, those marks are from the Factory ( that's who beat me to it !!). AND . . . there is a witness mark in the arbor hole (which is what I always ask folks about) and I totally DIDN'T get a pic of it!!!!! Holy Cow!!! The wedge that was in the revolver wasn't the original and was deformed about as bad as my old Walker wedges got ( you can't make a Navy make a wedge like that !!) anyway, I think the original got used in some other revolver and in an attempt to make this one fireable, they took this "boomerang" of a wedge and jammed it in but apparently didn't get around to shooting it. THAT was the main reason my buddy called me to see if I'd get the wedge out for him and of course I said yes.
So, while I had it, I went through it and with his permission, I did a light tune on it with no added features save for a bolt block. Corrected the timing and profiled the cam / bolt arm intersect ( for longevity), broke some edges and polished a few surfaces. All in all, I was happy that it still had all its original parts and he liked the way it felt. Even the dang screws were all dolled up ! . . . I had be careful not to be THE ONE to mess um up !!! That reminds me, the original wedge screw was missing as well and none I had would fit so it's still missing. I DID however replace that nasty wedge with a much nicer one but it wasn't wide enough either. I made a sliver of a shim to take up the slack and low and behold, a tight wedge, a dedicated repeatable endshake measurement ( .0035" I think).
Soooooo !!!!!! After all that , . . . it just goes to show ya, Uberti DID at least in the beginning, no how to execute a correct build of an open-top platform . . . they just forgot and CAN'T remember!!!

Mike
 
Mike, Do you have the Service Guarantee ?

😮 think they'll notice ?!!! 😆

Actually, I caught their "cya" the very first time I read it !!!! ( thanks for posting!!!) And I promise, the Navy in question hasn't got the slightest "faculty" anywhere in it that I could see ( an I've been through a lllllot of um !! 😇).

Mike
 
Here's a view of the "workin parts" . . .
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You can see the typical THICK bolt arms . . . and that's "across the board" for all the reproductions through the '70's, 80's and 90's. Couldn't detect the back side of the cam to verify it as a separate part but I'm sure it is.
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At least they got the combo spring correct but at some point went the way of "all the cool kids doit" and switched to the heavy bolt side and lighter trigger!!! Sheesh !! It's amazing how hard folks work to get stuff WRONG . . . FOR THE LONGEST TIME!!!! 🤣

And, look what I forgot!! The build no. is on the cylinder too ( remembered when I saw this pic of the ratchet).
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So, there ya go!!

Mike
 
I like the GU's. Thanks for showing this one. Regarding the wedge screw, you might try an original Colt replacement screw and see if it fits. Lodgewood might have them. I have never had to replace any screws on my GU's but I did replace the nipples and if I remember correctly the threads were the same as original Colt's.
As a side note it might be hard to find caps that will 1) fit on the nipple without binding on the recoil shield or 2) fit tight enough that they won't fall off under recoil. I think the GU's were intended to fit #9 caps. I have never found any #9's to try but I have tried CCI #10, CCI #11, Remington #10 and Remington #11 and none of them fit right.
 
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