Spiller & Burr Revolver

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DavidB2

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I am interested in the Spiller and Burr .36 Caliber Revolver listed in Dixie Gunworks Catalogue. Does anyone have any experience with this pistol? I would prefer the Whitney; but it is no longer available for sale. Although a brass frame; it does have a top strap so I don't feel as hesitant as I would on other brass models.

I am also trying to decide whether to purchase the kit or finished model. I figured that with a good dremel tool the kit might be added fun. Give me your opinions. Thanks.
 
Spiller & Burr

I have one that I built from a kit and it works fine. The grip is different from the Colt Types but quite adequate. The Brass Frame with the top strap should be stronger also. All in all quite positive.
If you get the kit - forget the Dremel, hand sanding with proper blocking is the way to go.
 
I have no experience with that particular gun. However, some thoughts in general:

First, the top strap is of limited value in preventing the damage most often encountered with brass framed revolvers: deforming the recoil shield. The recoil shield takes the recoil impact load from the cylinder on each shot. Being made of brass it is malleable and can be deformed by repeated battering from the cylinder. Since the cylinder is free to recoil into the shield along the base pin, the top strap has no means of mitigating this impact. The strap can help prevent 'stretching', or elongating, the frame, but recoil shield damage can still occur.

This damage occurs because of repeated firing with heavy powder loads, usually full or nearly full chamber loads. For a brass framed gun such loads are essentially abuse to the frame. The gun will last a very long time, probably longer than the owner if powder loads are kept to a moderate level (and moderate loads are almost always the most accurate). In this gun I'd avoid anything over 25 grains of fffg real black powder, or the equivalent of that amount in substitutes or other granulations.

With regard to the kit, most revolver kits simply require minor wood and metal finishing skills. They do not present any real challenge in terms of building skills. That can be either good or bad depending on what you want. The enjoyment of building your own weapon is present, but the challenge is minimal. Also, there is no economic benefit as the kit costs are close to the assembled guns and by the time you buy tools and supplies you can often exceed the assembled price.

Also, I'd echo Reb's comment about the Dremel. The joy in building a kit is the handwork involved. Using a Dremel to speed things up suggests that the fun of building the kit is not the motivation. Plus, it's somewhat like using a computer - you just make mistakes faster, sometimes so fast you can't recover. I'd ditch the Dremel.
 
I have an older one that might have been made from a kit. Nice gun. I use .375 roundballs, maybe 15 grs of black powder.
The second pic shows the damage to the recoil sheild that mykeal mentioned (that's why I keep the load at 15 grs now)
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I have had the Spiller & Burr for over 15 years. I got mine from Dixie, it's a Pietta, not a kit, and have always enjoyed it -- no problems.
I was unaware Dixie had stopped carrying the Whitney. I bought one of those maybe 5 years ago or so. It shoots OK and despite being a...Palmetto, is pretty well made except the wood looks a little uneven and is just not as good as Pietta or Uberti.
If the kit is Pietta it should end up as a nice gun. If you keep to light loads you won't score the recoil shield as in Pohill's photo.
 
You turn the knob on the side a half turn, pull the loading lever out, then rotate the cylinder out like a Remington. The knob can be put on either side.
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Tommygunn, what markings does yours have on it? Mine has CSA and the number 82 in several places, but no maker's name or proof marks.
 
Great feedback

I appreciate on the Spiller & Burr. It was helpful to see the photos on recoil shield damage. My question would be is damage to the recoil sheild inevitable; despite the size of powder charges? I like the idea of having a unique firearm like the S&B. But I love shooting black powder pistols too much to just to have a novelty. I will have to continue to do research on this pistol before making a decision.
 
The damage is not inevitable. It is purely a function of how hard you hit the brass, not how often. Your grandchildren could still be shooting it without visible damage.
 
Actually, Rifle (Wayne) a poster here and on the Voy forum, has a way to beef up the recoil shield of a brass framed gun with a washer. Just gotta bring him out of retirement.
The previous owner(s) of my Spiller & Burr beat the heck out of it. 15 grs of black powder gives good accuracy in a .36 caliber without damaging the gun.
 
Got one too

But mine came from Dixie years ago. No make believe CSA marks on it. It was made by fillipetta for Dixie.

It isn't much of a shooter. It's now mostly in its for show case.
 

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Pohill said:
Tommygunn, what markings does yours have on it? Mine has CSA and the number 82 in several places, but no maker's name or proof marks.

Mine has the usual proof markings and an AS in a box, which I see means it was made in 1987. That's a little strange since I recall buying it circa 1991-3? so it was in inventory for quite some time. On the right side of the barrel it says F.LLIPIETTA-MADE IN ITALY and on the left it says BLACK POWDER ONLY 36 CAL. The bottom of the grip has the serial ## and the trapezoidal emblem with the Pietta marking inside.
I notice the one you have has the Remmie-like safety notches in between the chambers. Mine does not have those. Odd ... but never really a problem since I only ever used it at a range.
There are no other markings on the frame of mine other than those proofing marks found on all Italian BP revolvers. It doesn't even have the American distributor's name on the barrel, though IIRC I bought it from Dixie Gun Works, and some of their revolvers I've bought have their name on the barrel.
 
You turn the knob on the side a half turn, pull the loading lever out, then rotate the cylinder out like a Remington. The knob can be put on either side.

That's kinda what I was thinking from looking at the pictures of it. How does that system compare to Remingtons?
 
My two cents

I think the Remington design is much better. The pin that holds the loading lever in the S&B can turn around wth a touch. And if it's turned to locked or unlocked is not easy to know without checking to see if the arm and cylinder pin slides out or not. With the Remington there is nothing to turn around. You can see at a glance that the pin is in place and locked.
 
I agree that the Remington design is better. That's also one thing I'm not crazy about on the Ruger - the way the loading lever is attached.
I bought a book on Ebay called THE CONFEDERATE BRASS-FRAMED COLT & WHITNEY by William A. Albaugh III. It's the history of the southern Spiller & Burr and the Griswold & Gunnison revolvers. Not a bad book - a little dry, but informative.
 
Spiller and Burr Plan

This is my plan. I have decided to get the 1858 Remington .36 New Army Police or Navy model. Probably, the 6.5 inch barrel. I am trying to decide which deal is better; Dixie Gun Works or Cabelas. Since NV charges sales tax with Cabela's orders both companies end up costing about $230 (shipping included) for this gun. Anyhow, I am soon leaving for Iraq for 4-5 months and when I get back from deployment I may get the Spiller&Burr at that time. Again, I would love to get the Whitney since it is all steel; but no one sells it anymore brand new.
 
I don't have a Remington in .36 but I'd like one eventually.
Don't overlook used guns - you can get some good deals and some of them are in great shape - usually, all the bugs have been worked out (and new ones added, of course.)
Good luck in Iraq. Keep us informed.
 
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