Stuck another rifle case! yaaaaay!

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Mr Guffey, FYI if you would like to quote someone in your post, click on the little paper and quill to the right of their post ("quick reply to this message") and then type your post in the quick reply window below, and be sure to click "quote message in reply" below the window. And if you want to edit parts of their quote, you can then click click "go advanced" and it will show the quoted text and you can remove any parts you don't wish to repeat in your post.

:)
 
It sounds like you have something wrong. I would give the inside of the die a good look. I would also get a bore brush and some solvent after it. I might even go farther, and get a bore mop and some polish, and use an electric drill to polish it a little. 35 year old dies have had lots of time to pick up a load of crud, or rust! The correct shell holder is also very important. Lightman
 
Guffey ........

After the Digital Headspace Gauge is calibrated to your fired case, just measure one of your first handloads. The gauge then displays the exact shoulder clearance that your handloads in your particular chamber. Just use the appropriate die shim to get the chamber clearance you want.

My die shims look exactly like Skip's. However, unlike Skip's shims, my set includes a .001" shim, each shim is individually measured with a 6 digit micrometer, and my shims are a bit cheaper.
Did I get help from someone ?
(Some of my products are not patented.)

Even though you can reload without "extra" equipment, it would solve a whole lot of resizing problems (including stuck cases, fail to chamber and case head separations).
 
1KPerDay .........

It prevents cases from getting stuck.

Here's how:

When the shoulder of a case gets pushed back too far, it is blown too far forward every time it is fired. This stretches (and thins the case) more at every firing. Thin brass bulges easily with any downward pressure from reloading, and trying to resize a bulged base is often way too tight for your sizing die. Case bulge always occurs above the web where thin brass transitions to solid brass.

Accurate measuring helps to maintain the minimum shoulder clearance that reduces stretched brass case bulge. It also helps to increase brass life, ensures reliable chambering, and it can reduce case run-out.
 
Yesterday, 08:25 PM #78
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Join Date: October 24, 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 256 Guffey ........

After the Digital Headspace Gauge is calibrated to your fired case, just measure one of your first handloads. The gauge then displays the exact shoulder clearance that your handloads in your particular chamber. Just use the appropriate die shim to get the chamber clearance you want.

My die shims look exactly like Skip's. However, unlike Skip's shims, my set includes a .001" shim, each shim is individually measured with a 6 digit micrometer, and my shims are a bit cheaper.
Did I get help from someone ?
(Some of my products are not patented.)

Even though you can reload without "extra" equipment, it would solve a whole lot of resizing problems (including stuck cases, fail to chamber and case head separations).
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Visit our website at WWW.LARRYWILLIS.COM it's devoted to helping shooters make the best handloads possible.



The question: WAS, about validating the adjustment.

Yesterday, 05:28 PM #75
fguffey
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Posts: 1,454 Today, 04:17 PM #74
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Guffey will be glad to know that I now have Precision Die Shims that fit under the FL sizing die. The Digital Headspace Gauge shows exactly which shim(s) to use for each chamber. They adjust die height quickly in .001" increments all the way to .017"
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Visit our website at WWW.LARRYWILLIS.COM it's devoted to helping shooters make the best hand loads possible.


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“Guffey will be glad to know that I now have Precision Die Shims” Not sure why you would think I would be glad, I never thought ‘Skip’s Shims’ were a good ideal, to install a shim between the locking ring and press the die must be removed, then there is that part where the lock ring is secured to the die, I adjust my die to the shell holder every time, meaning? I do not secure the lock ring to the die, I secure the die to the press with the lock ring. Back to the question, “How do you validate the adjustment”, again, I am the fan of standards, transfers and validating. I skip Skip’s shims, I go straight to validating, I validate the adjustment with the feeler gage (Redding refers to the feeler gage as being a thickness gage), I do not remove the die to make adjustments, I have never found it necessary, but if I did I would still validate the adjustment.

Logic? Why make an adjustment by adding a shim by removing the die to add, then validate the effect the shim made on the adjustment? Forget the shim, go straight to validating with the feeler gage. Then there is never, never a recommendation to measure the case that is new minimum length/full length sized before firing. WHY? I do not know. Why can’t a reloader determine if the press successfully sized the case when the ram was raised? The only way a case is restored to minimum length/full length sized the die must contact the shell holder, When the die does not contact the shell holder the case being sized is holding the die off the shell holder, again, the feeler gage, the transfer, the standard can be used to determine the amount of case that did not get sized by measuring the gap between the die and shell holder, I know, some use light, again, if I was a light measuring individual I would still validate the results with the feeler gage. You? I am not sure how you would get the digital case comparator between the shell holder and bottom of the die,

Back to resistance to sizing, in the perfect world I use new cases when forming, then there are once fired cases, after that? It is down hill. The reloader needs/should know an increase in resistance to sizing requires and additional increase in the presses ability to overcome case resistance to being sized. I have presses that are guaranteed not to flex, 3 total. I do not get a promise cases will not stick.

I received a set of dies that belonged to a collector, reloader, shooter in Pennsylvania, the dies belonged to his father, the dies were RCBS 30/06. He had stuck a case, I know he could have sent the dies to Oreville. Cal. he did not to know there was a case stuck in the die, he wanted to know why there was a case stuck in his die. I started by removing the stuck case, then I started with my cases and lube available to everyone, I stuck the first 3 cases, finally after sticking, sizing and removing cases I sized 60 cases, after sizing 60 cases the die stopped keeping the cases, the only information I had when determining the problem was the part provided information about cleaning, I do not clean dies like they were brake drums/disc and oil saturated shoes. I clean dies with a towel in a dowel, I avoid cross hatches, burnishing, honing, it is not easy to improve on the finish, and I am the fan of 100% contact. The collector, reloader, shooter kept the dies as back-ups, he did not trust the dies.

F. Guffey

Backing the die off to avoid sizing is a bad habit, unless the reloader knows the length of the chamber, your method is based on measuring fired cases, meaning? the reloader did not/does not know the length of the chamber before firing, I am the fan of knowing the length of the chamber before firing, I can make a case comparator (case length gage) using tools that exist and available on the reloading bench. I had a 6 digit gage to the right of the decimal point, approximate weight is 35 pounds, I could brag about having the gage or use it, I removed the electronics then installed a dial indicator on the stylist, the gage still requires standards and transfers, the advantage was the height, 11 inches, wringing gages together helps when zeroing the gage.
 
You know something? This sucks! I just want these to go bang and be reasonably accurate and not blow up rifles. I sized a bunch more and realized I still had to tumble, ream crimps, clean primer pockets, trim, deburr, confirm safe cartridge headspace (LC 06 is apparently more "springy" than some WCC and TW brass I have; it measures a thousandth or two above the gauge while the others are fine). etc. etc.

It isn't worth the time and effort to me. Handgun reloading is fun and easy. I enjoy it and I have success with it. It saves me a lot of money. It's like kindergarten while rifle reloading is like engineering grad school. :barf:

I still have a small amount of .223. If/when I run out, I'll take some time off work and send my wife and kids on vacation and spend a few weeks making 20 rounds. :rolleyes: :banghead:

I'm seriously about ready to toss the whole kit and kaboodle and list all my rifle dies, tools, and components for sale. Or trade for valium... :rolleyes:
 
!KPerDay .......
Rifle handloads are very easy to make. (Some people just make it sound complicated.) Read one or two reloading manuals, and you'll learn a whole lot. It's better than solving technical problems by committee on the Internet.

Sometimes a shooting forum can help. However, it's best (if you have a specific question), to ask someone in the reloading industry. Every company in this industry has technicians that would be glad to help you solve a problem.
 
Certaindeaf,

“guff, the way you quote stuff is fairly confusing.. I don't even read it”

And that is OK, you are neither obligated and no demand is placed on you to even try.

F. Guffey
 
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