Suggestions on making a reloading bench

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scythefwd

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All, I'm making a reloading bench because I have the wood and I'm cheap. I'm using 2x4's for the legs, braced at both ends front to back and side to side using 2x4s. The top is just a layer of 2x4's right now but I'm thinking of putting some 1/4" plywood over top so I dont get any primers stuck in the small gaps... anyone think this will be stable enough for loading? My press will be mounted right over the junction of 2 cross members and a leg and be bolted through the 2x4 and into the cross members.... I'm not sure it will be sturdy enough :)
 
+1 on the sticky - lots of good ideas.

2x4s and plywood work just fine, especially secured to the wall studs. I like to build portable castered benches with them so I can reload anywhere in the house (in the comfort of AC/heat). You can use OSB/CDX plywood as top as well but I reinforce the area where the press is mounted with another layer of 2x4s.

This is a 2'x3' reloading bench built with 11 layer hardwood veneer plywood (very stiff and no flex) with 2x4 under where presses are mounted for extra reinforcement. The bench will resize the thicker wall military .308 cases even when empty without flexing the bench. Mounting the press at the ends allows the bench to be pushed through doorways.

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guys - I HAVE been through that thread, couple of times actually. I've seen some people say that there isn't enough forward to back support the way I am building it. Others seem to be fine (its built similarly to your bench, except its 2x4 verticals, 2x4 horizontals, and a 2x4 top with a layer of plywood over the 2x4. The 2x4s on top are laying flat, not standing up. My legs are outside the framing of the top and bottom shelf, etc... but basically it is the same as your bench.


Its finished dimensions are 33" x 18" +/- 1/16th of an inch here or there. I didn't try to make it perfectly... it's going to be beat up and drawn on with a toddler around anyways (my consumables are stored in the safe for now....I'll be adding lockable drawers later.
 
Before you know it, that toddler will be helping you sort cases. :D

Used to have two toddlers ... one's grown up and the other helps me sort and resize/deprime cases now.

Good times.
 
I think your plan will make for a strong bench.The plywood over the 2x4s is a good idea,those cracks can be a pain.I probably would glue the plywood to the other lumber in addition to nails or screws.If in doubt,just remember that compound linkage presses put less strain on the top than simpler/cheaper types of presses.Post some pics when you're done and show it off. Lightman
 
Lightman - It's a 50 year old CH press. It is a simple action. It is bolted through the plywood AND the 1.5" of 2x4 (why do they call it 2x4 anyways) using a good sized bolt x2. I need a third 3.5-3" bolt to screw into the leg to fully secure it.
I'm actually running a very basic setup. The CH press, a lyman d7 powder drop, a lyman 55 scale. Lee dies. Lee hand primer. Harbor freight vibratory cleaner.

oneounceload - perhaps I'm a bit ignorant, but what would be causing the vibration. I set the charge, I weigh it, and then I dont touch the table till it's all done. I'll be able to use the top of my steel tool chest right next to it, but I'm not seeing the problem. I'll need to get a stand for my powder measure to bolt down on the bench as well.
 
Pic as requested. It's rough... and it aint gonna win any beauty competitions. I cost me nothing though as I used only scraps of wood left over from projects. There are no overhangs, though there looks like there is one in the pic.

Like I said, Dimensions are 33 Wide X 18 deep X 40 Tall.

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speaking to a guy about my weekend. He asked if I wanted a couple hundred 168 game kings... for $15 a box. 30$ for 200 projectiles... not a bad deal (and a couple hundred brass to go with it, fired from a garand so there may or may not be rim deformation). This bench is good luck from what I can see :)
 
guys - I HAVE been through that thread, couple of times actually

Then why didn't you post these questions on that thread? I may be wrong but, starting a thread uses more bandwidth on this/any forum. That costs money.

As for;
oneounceload - perhaps I'm a bit ignorant, but what would be causing the vibration?

Unless your bench is solid concrete, cycling your press will move the bench. Vibrations on a balance beam scale cause wear on the knife edges it pivots on. Enough wear will cause it to read off, or be inaccurate, less sensitive. Also, be sure your scale is completely level, both directions.
 
Snuffy - Show us pictures - basically the topic.
Asking questins on construction stability (engineering of) - Not related topics. I try to stay on topic unless it's my thread I'm hijacking.

Thanks for the tips about the blades, but that is what the arm rest is for on the scales... to remove the pivots from the bearings when you're not using the scale. The scale won't be setup unless I am using it. Will look to moving it's location to the tool box lid when using the press.
 
OSB/CDX over 2x4 frame screwed down with drywall screws will provide enough stiffness as reloading bench top. I reinforce with extra 2x4 where press base is mounted for even more stiffness/strength.

For the 11 layer hardwood veneer plywood top, the extra 2x4 was not necessary, but I used it as insurance. So far, I have resized almost 1000 .308 and several thousand .223 cases with no deflection on the 2'x3' bench top. I have loaded about 10K+ pistol rounds with no "vibration" issues as the casters on carpet does a good job isolating vibrations (if any).

I used kiln dried 2x4s for my bench and all the connections were fastened with 10d nails and 3" drywall screws. The pegboard adds to the stiffness and the bench is solid as a wall mounted bench I used to use.
 
added a ledge to mount my powder measure to. all set to go :).... sorry for punctuation.... only have one hand... toddler has other. also crewed down the loading block.
 
Won't need diagonals on the legs if you add another shelf. Never too much storage on your bench and you can get really cheap storage bins at Wallyworld that help to organize things. If I could give you one word of advice on improving the bench it would be this .... paint.
 
I was planning on making a bench myself an priced out the cost for wood, screws and tools to make it. Then I saw the wood benches at Harbor Freight which were high quality, sturdy had amble storage space, had a built in vice and were less expensive than the cost to build. I bought two when they were on sale for $200 OTD. I am extremely happy with them and wish I would have bought two more. I have my Dillon 650 installed on one table and my Rockchucker, powder drop, BP drop tube and trimmer on the other and still have plenty of space.
 
+1 to Flashhole-- a little paint will surely spruce up your new reloading bench. any manly color will do! it looks mighty sturdy to me, a couple of "L" BRACKETS TO THE WALL will stablize it greatly.

I have my presss mounted a top an old metal office desk that must be 50 years old and heavy! I am planing to attach 1.5 inches of plywood to the desk top leaving a nice table edge to mount my presses.

Bull
 
bds - so your saying my top is overkill I used 3" deck screws or 1 5/8" deck screws for the top layer of plywood.

There's no such thing as over kill or building a too heavy reloading bench. In fact, the more weight you can add to it, the better. I have 200# of lead on the bottom shelf of my bench, besides being anchored to the wall studs. It's quite stable!:what:
 
bull - did 60 .308 cases today... Still have to charge and seat the bullets. Didn't even wobble.

good call on the paint.

l
flash - I'll be adding a locking 2" deep "drawer" to it later. I'll have to buy a latch and that's it. Already got enough wood for the top, bottom and the framing.
 
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