Swiss Powder compare

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Just took this. Here we have 2 powder brands.
Left we have Goes FFFg.
Right is Swiss FFFg.
3f-vs-3f.jpg


Note the color difference. Goex is graphite black, Swiss is not. Also note the softer edges on the Swiss which is from the polishing process and no graphite.
 
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convert? If someone wants to move from A to B then that is their choice, personally I do not care what others shoot, that is their right and their choice. What I have seen countless times is several people ask "what is this swiss powder and what makes it special, what is the difference between other brands" etc.. My goal was/is to present that.

Commission? hardly as much. I did recently find some good resources that details many of these aspects and wanted to show what I found.

I also want to get other brands and compare them as well. Also want to hear about negative aspects to, so far the biggest one is cost.
 
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I use Swiss or T7. I just picked up some 4F for my ROA. You point out that Goex uses graphite...using graphite isn't necessarily a bad thing, is it? I always thought graphite was added to as a lubricant to make the powder flow a little bit better. It also acts as a burn rate modifier by slowing down the burn rate slightly.

I suppose they also use it to blacken up the black powder. Kind of an aesthetic touch.

My experience is that Swiss is better than the other brands of true black powder that I used.
 
I can't believe how much finer that Null B is even over 4FG!! I'll start using that in my pan see if my flinter likes it.
 
Hey everybody is going to sell you a line of %$#*! you think you need a faster burn rate in your pan then just grind your 4F little bit it's pan powder!
 
STEEL HORSE RIGHT NOW there is a kik promoter on a few other sites and black net seems to be promoting Swiss this is not new on the NET as far as trying to sell there product. There are others doing this in all products sneeking around on forms! THINK ABOUT THIS UN-SURE AND SWAY !!!
 
And no boommer I am not promoting any brands, I am simply just a person with a good macro setup on my camera. Most people are not aware of may things in the background process when it comes to powder and I just wanted to share some of that. It is also quite interesting to note on this forum there has been a much lower than expected curiosity on the detail side of things, i.e. creosote, polishing, etc.
 
Hi BlackNet, very interesting pics. I've never bought Swiss due to the considerable difference in cost. Is it worth the extra, bearing in mind I'm only a mediocre marksman at best?
 
If your trying to educate the arm chair experts on this forum, forget it. Their
Not insterested in learning anything new. Been there, done that. Our family are serious competition shooters and spend quite a bit of money in our guns, and
The 1500 mile trip to the Nationals each year, sometimes two times a year. When your talking over a thousand dollars just for the trip, what is another
5.00 more for powder? We use whatever gives us the best accuracy. Cost has
Nothing to do with it. Swiss would not be the best for everybody. You have to
Have a gun and be able to shoot well enough to realize its potential . Most on
Here would be better off just shooting Goex Reenactor powder. It's great
For making noise. To each it's own. Different strokes for different folks.
 
I only shoot targets, water filled plastic bottles, and metal gongs with my muzzle loaders, do you really think I am concerned about MOA and percentages of velocity difference? My concerns are more related to ease of cleaning, availability, and cost than in purity and accuracy but some seem to think all the rest of us HAVE to embrace the same standards you do, so maybe a little visit to another's perspective could be in order. I work because I HAVE to, I shoot because I enjoy it.
 
Haven't seen anyone saying (or even implying) that anyone else HAS to conform to any particular standards one way or the other. I have seen someone providing information that some might care about, and others might not. But if anyone said, "You HAVE to use this powder," well, I guess I just missed that.

To give a clue as to where I stand, well, the only 100 yard X I ever shot on the offhand line was on someone else's target. But I keep trying....
 
I'm new to BP shooting and appreciate the knowledge all of you have to offer.

A special thanks to Blacknet for the time and effort he put into this thread.
 
old #39 dose have a point there you do need the rifle and be able to shoot that well to tell the difference. But other then that he is being a jerk ABOUT IT AND MAD AND THAT HE FELT NOBODY WAS LISTENING TO HIM!! I guess I'll be in trouble for this one! OH WELL'
 
As I said in my original post I started off using FFFg in the pan and yes it does indeed work quite good but as pointed out it also greatly depends on what you are doing, others also pointed out they look for the cheapest they can find and I did see several reference points to powder being made for $4 a pound. Since it is being sold for around $25-35 a pound then that's one helluva markup. I know that multiple hazmat shipping charges are in there and that likely eats it up greatly.
 
Blacknet, you site references that talk about the quality and methods of producing charcoal for the various powders and their effects on the characteristics of those powders, how about the quality of the potassium nitrate or the sulfur used in the various brands? Or is the industry pretty much using the same source for these ingredients.
 
Interesting to read about the water recommendations also where impurities can attach themselves to the mix and cause some problems. I use my muzzleloader for everything and a change to the Swiss powder, just to see how my rifle likes it and takes to it, is worth consideration. Do all the differing manufacturers use a different grade of potassium nitrates and sulfurs for their individual mixes? Is that information anywhere?
 
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