Taurus 7-Shooters?

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Nightcrawler

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Does anyone have any experience with this Taurus revolver, the Model 66 7-Shot?

I miss my S&W 686+ sometimes, but the prices around here seem to run high for these models. The Taurus might be a more economical alternative. Are they as tough as an L-Frame? Will they fit in about the same holsters?

66SS4.jpg

I like the Taurus' barrel profile better, I think, than S&W's mock-Python underlug.
 
I have been wanting one of these myself for a bit and have done some research. The 66 is the equivalent of a smith K frame and like the K frame 357s, it should get a light diet of magnums. It seems to make a fine 38 however. I have held one and thought it was one of the most comfortable revolvers I ever touched. If you plan on firing plenty of 357s you are probably better off saving up for a 686.
 
If you plan on firing plenty of 357s you are probably better off saving up for a 686.
I think that characterizes me - revolver recoil junkie as I seem to be evolving into -
so I'm leaning towards a 686+ that leaves no doubt it'll be asking for more mags.

Still, I'm open to argument and evidence, and NC is a friend, so I've subscribed.

Besides, as a guy with smaller hands,
that Taurus "K" looks like it could fit me better than the 686.

What say you?

Nem
 
I'm not sure about the frame size, but I love my 6" blued m66. Accuracy is very good, it was cheap ($359), lifetime warranty, and it looks great. I'm not one to buy guns just because they are cheap, but the M66 is a great buy. Try one, you'll like it!
 
Hrm. Taurus might not make what I'm looking for. I want an L-Frame or equivalent, of which there are apparently only three: Colt King Cobra, GP100, 686/620. Since I want a seven shot, it looks like S&W might be getting more of my money. (Heck, the KC hasn't even been in production for some time.) I hate having to buy the same gun twice though. *grumble* Should've kept the stupid thing.

I'm really not interested in a gun you have to run .38s through. When I owned my 686+, though I didn't have it terribly long, I shot it quite a bit and didn't put a single .38 Special through it. A .357 Magnum should be able to fire .357 Magnum exclusively without getting beaten up, especially considering how lightly loaded most factory .357 is. I'm sorry, but a 158 grain bullet at 1,250 fps from a 6"+ barrel is just not magnum performance, in my opinion.
 
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I have the model 66s6 and am absolutely happy with it. I would like to add a scope for hunting. anyone have any good optics to reccomend for a hand gun??
 
Nightcrawler said:
Are you sure it's not L-Frame size? How can you fit seven rounds into a K-Frame cylinder? The cylinder walls must be paper thin!
I don't claim to be an expert on this and I may be overlooking something obvious but my 66 (K-frame) looks to be about the same size as my 686+ (L-frame). My understanding is that size ISN'T the difference between a K-frame and a L-frame.
 
Happy With Mine

I have a 6" 66 in stainless steel. Had it for about 6 months. I usually shoot it once a week, probably 200 - 300 rounds a go; mix of 38 Specials, +P and .357's. Great gun for the money and quite acurate. I have a friend with a snub nose 6 shot (small frame?) Taurus .357. He shoots .357's only with it. He's had no problems with it at all.
 
I have a s&w 686 and a taurus 44, my dad has a taurus66 and a gp100, the taurus 66 shoots good, but seems to have a little more play just about everywhere, with a fairly notchy, but light trigger, the bead blasted stainless also shows wear and scratches pretty easily, seems to be a "softer" steel, but smoothing the trigger and replacing the crappy long and narrow stock grips with hogue monoblocks and it feels pretty nice. I like all the revolvers, but if i was going to reccomend one it would be to save up for the 686, better trigger, better finish, feels like a single block of steel. a gun you are not happy with can cost more than just getting the one you want in the first place, because eventually you are probably going to get it anyway. they both fit in an uncle mikes #2 holster and have held up for at least 5,000 rounds of mid power 357s each with no parts breakage and both feel good and "broken in" the gp100 has about 10,000 rounds and still doesn't feel quite as smooth as it could.

p.s. pitbull ive always had a heck of a time getting any scope mount to fit correctly on a taurus alot of milling and fitting to get it bedded properly, but for close hunting a decent 1x red dot scope like an ATN ultra works nice and is fairly light, for distance I like the 1.5-4x simmons 28mm pistol scope , i have one on my 44, faily easy to shoot 6" groups at 100yds with the butt sitting on something and the scope stays 0ed through at least 100 240gr 1500fps loads, getting it bedded properly is the key if not it will loosen up especially with heavy magnum loads and will be near impossible to get sighted in.
 
Nightcrawler
If size is not a concern, a taurus 608 might be a good option for you. It is a larger, stronger frame than a 686 smith, and holds 8 shots. The 608 was my first 357 mag, and I love that gun. The gun's size and weight make even the heaviest 357 loads seem tame in recoil.
 
A range friend has drooled over my 6" S&W 66, made 1/03, for years. He finally relented and bought what he could afford - a new Taurus $340 blued 4" 66. He shoots mainly .38's, so it should last him the rest of his life. I, an admittedly great example of the S&W 'snob' he accused me of being, was actually somewhat impressed by the Taurus. It's blueing looks far better than the typical current blued S&W's, not that I like blued revolvers. My continued suggestion that he buy a S&W 620 was ruled out - it having drifted up to the $590 price of a 686+. After breaking in his new 66 - and I changed out his hammer coil spring with a lighter Wolff spring - I really was amazed. Still not in the same league as my S&W 66, but not too bad nonetheless. It does feel/look smaller. I would think it highly efficient for his use - maybe just a tad lite for a steady 'real' Magnum life, although that is what it is intended for - and, it has that lifetime promise.

About the S&W K & L frames... The L frame's front is .040" wider - to permit a barrel's forcing cone OD .025" greater than that of the K frame. The L frame's cylinder opening is taller - to accomodate the 7-shot cylinder. The lockwork and frame's grip are the same as a K frame. Most L frames are full-lugged, K-frames having at most partial lug. Of course, exceptions exist - I have a 5" half lug 686+. I like my S&W's - and chose to own fewer firearms of what I felt - and still feel - is a superior firearm marque. My friend loves his Taurus 66... they really are quite decent.

Stainz
 
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