The CZ Club
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Deer Hunter
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I guess you're right.
CZ US has Sears for around 15 dollars a piece (if my euro-to-dollar calculation is right from what I remember last time I was over in Italy). I emailed Ghost Holster to see if they will sell me just a single sear.
CZ US has Sears for around 15 dollars a piece (if my euro-to-dollar calculation is right from what I remember last time I was over in Italy). I emailed Ghost Holster to see if they will sell me just a single sear.
schmeky
Member
Deer Hunter,
What I like about this site is the honesty and willingness to help. Example: [eerw] "you should see all the parts in my junk pile". Ha, bet my stack of 1911 parts ALONE is higher than his CZ stack.
Anywho, here's a suggestion on getting that new sear right on the money, first time, everytime.
Objective - to have as close to -0- clearance as possible between the sear arm contact area and the manual safety "pad" when the safety is up. However, you will notice virtually no difference if there is .002 - .004" clearance in this area; the saftey will still work reliably.
I have an old needle file that I have sharpened to a very fine point. This is my "scribe" tool for fitting the sear arm. With the new sear installed, the safety in the down position (off), take the scribe tool and engrave or scratch where the sear leg and the manual saftey pad intersect.
Remove the sear block and using a Dremel (yes, I said Dremel) "green" grinding wheel (I'll take a pic and post of the one I use), gently grind the sear leg ALMOST to the scribe line. DON'T grind into the scribe line. The scribe line also allows you to make sure the cut is "square".
Chances are, the sear will fit properly the first time, if not, grind just a fraction more and re-fit.
I have done this 6 times, each time was near perfect the first time.
Hope this makes sense.
What I like about this site is the honesty and willingness to help. Example: [eerw] "you should see all the parts in my junk pile". Ha, bet my stack of 1911 parts ALONE is higher than his CZ stack.
Anywho, here's a suggestion on getting that new sear right on the money, first time, everytime.
Objective - to have as close to -0- clearance as possible between the sear arm contact area and the manual safety "pad" when the safety is up. However, you will notice virtually no difference if there is .002 - .004" clearance in this area; the saftey will still work reliably.
I have an old needle file that I have sharpened to a very fine point. This is my "scribe" tool for fitting the sear arm. With the new sear installed, the safety in the down position (off), take the scribe tool and engrave or scratch where the sear leg and the manual saftey pad intersect.
Remove the sear block and using a Dremel (yes, I said Dremel) "green" grinding wheel (I'll take a pic and post of the one I use), gently grind the sear leg ALMOST to the scribe line. DON'T grind into the scribe line. The scribe line also allows you to make sure the cut is "square".
Chances are, the sear will fit properly the first time, if not, grind just a fraction more and re-fit.
I have done this 6 times, each time was near perfect the first time.
Hope this makes sense.
Deer Hunter
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Thanks for the encouragement guys! I'm waiting on Ghost Holster to get back to me to see if they sell sears. I really don't feel like going through CZ to get one, but I may have to.
burningsquirrels
Member
aw, crap man... sorry to hear that.
when i did it, i first assembled it to see how much needed to come off... then it took me about 4-5 reassemblies to get it to the right spot. used a regular fine needle file and took only 10-20 light strokes at a time.
when i did it, i first assembled it to see how much needed to come off... then it took me about 4-5 reassemblies to get it to the right spot. used a regular fine needle file and took only 10-20 light strokes at a time.
schmeky
Member
Deer Hunter,
CZ-USA will sell you a new sear for $9.00 plus postage and will usally ship within 24 hours.
CZ-USA will sell you a new sear for $9.00 plus postage and will usally ship within 24 hours.
burningsquirrels
Member
hm.... i might order some small parts as well.............
I am relatively new to handguns, the first gun I bought a few months ago was a CZ P-01 on the recommendation of a friend. I have tried several other guns since, the latest being a Glock 19 that I rented at the range, and when I shoot others side by side with my p-01, the others just don't feel/perform as good. I am glad my first gun was a CZ. The only other one I own at this point is a Kahr PM9, just for more concealable carry when I need it.
Deer Hunter
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Well, CZ US doesn't have them listed. CZ-UB does, though.
Truly great thread this, took me a while to look at the fine examples posted on all the pages. I used to own a brand new CZ75 back in 1992. It was a standard model and i owned it for 4 years. Great bit of kit. Not as nice as some of the examples on here though. Nice thread.
Deer Hunter
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CZ Customer Service
I ordered a Sear from CZ-USA over the phone this morning. I asked if they had the part I needed, they said yes, but didn't put it on the website because they didn't want people doing their own gunsmithing if they didn't know what to do and possibly screw up, then try to blame CZ.
Hmm... Who would do such a thing?
So they charged me 18 dollars, shipped, for the part. It's shipping out today!
I ordered a Sear from CZ-USA over the phone this morning. I asked if they had the part I needed, they said yes, but didn't put it on the website because they didn't want people doing their own gunsmithing if they didn't know what to do and possibly screw up, then try to blame CZ.
Hmm... Who would do such a thing?
So they charged me 18 dollars, shipped, for the part. It's shipping out today!
burningsquirrels
Member
awesome!
Deer Hunter
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Hold on...
I was just told by Rob over at Ghost Holster that I should be modifying the safety bar and not the sear....
So which is right?
I was just told by Rob over at Ghost Holster that I should be modifying the safety bar and not the sear....
So which is right?
burningsquirrels
Member
beats me.
by safety bar, i assume he means that instead of shortening the leg on the sear, he means shortening the pad that rotates to block the sear.
either way would work - doing it my way would allow you to use the manual safety with the hammer down...
by safety bar, i assume he means that instead of shortening the leg on the sear, he means shortening the pad that rotates to block the sear.
either way would work - doing it my way would allow you to use the manual safety with the hammer down...
Deer Hunter
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Hmm...
I'll see which is easier for me. Messing witht he safety would probably be easier, and it'll keep the same operation that I'm used to.
I'll see which is easier for me. Messing witht he safety would probably be easier, and it'll keep the same operation that I'm used to.
KINGMAX
Member
97-B I like it
I really like the sleak looks of the 97-B. Very smooth looking.
I really like the sleak looks of the 97-B. Very smooth looking.
schmeky
Member
Deer Hunter,
I bought a NIB Angus Custom Shop SP-01 9mm about 18 months ago. The manual safety never did have that positive "click" to it when activated in the safe position with the hammer cocked.
I finally did my sear leg modification and its perfect now. Think about this; the sear is cheap, the manual safety is not. The sear leg is very easy to modify, the manual safety is more difficult.
I'm not the "expert", but I disagree strongly with modifying the manual safety pad. Every one of my CZ's have the comp hammer with a modified sear leg.
They all work perfectly.
I bought a NIB Angus Custom Shop SP-01 9mm about 18 months ago. The manual safety never did have that positive "click" to it when activated in the safe position with the hammer cocked.
I finally did my sear leg modification and its perfect now. Think about this; the sear is cheap, the manual safety is not. The sear leg is very easy to modify, the manual safety is more difficult.
I'm not the "expert", but I disagree strongly with modifying the manual safety pad. Every one of my CZ's have the comp hammer with a modified sear leg.
They all work perfectly.
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schmeky
Member
KINGMAX,
This is my "beater" 97B. I have put about 3,000 rounds through it so far. It has the CZ comp hammer, fiber optic front sight (5.5mm), 15# mainspring, and a Wolf recoil spring. This thing has become butter smooth. The SA trigger is just amazing, probably 3.0-3.5#'s and breaks like ice.
I shoot it every weekend. Did I mention it's accurate too
By schmeky
This is my "beater" 97B. I have put about 3,000 rounds through it so far. It has the CZ comp hammer, fiber optic front sight (5.5mm), 15# mainspring, and a Wolf recoil spring. This thing has become butter smooth. The SA trigger is just amazing, probably 3.0-3.5#'s and breaks like ice.
I shoot it every weekend. Did I mention it's accurate too
By schmeky
Deer Hunter
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Yep, those 97s are really accurate.
And they seem to have a shorter trigger pull than the 75s.
About my Sear... I'll have to go very, very slow this time. Reassemble every little bit. Last time I got careless and it cost me 20 bucks.
Now I know better.
And they seem to have a shorter trigger pull than the 75s.
About my Sear... I'll have to go very, very slow this time. Reassemble every little bit. Last time I got careless and it cost me 20 bucks.
Now I know better.
just go slow and check it often..
the sear is the cheap part compared to the safety..but I can usually fit the safety in a couple of minutes and check it quickly for fit. so while the sear is the cheaper part to replace..I usually fit the safety.
other reason is once I cut the sear and hammer..I don't want to have to redo that work IF a mistake is made.
the sear is the cheap part compared to the safety..but I can usually fit the safety in a couple of minutes and check it quickly for fit. so while the sear is the cheaper part to replace..I usually fit the safety.
other reason is once I cut the sear and hammer..I don't want to have to redo that work IF a mistake is made.
burningsquirrels
Member
good points eerw.... looks like i have an update for the sear cheat sheet.
Ignition Override
Member
Having no handguns, although there is a possibility in the future, there seem to be so many CZs around that all gunsmiths must have experience with them?
Are spare parts very easy to find?
Have several carbines, but from what I've read about these, they would probably be my first choice, despite the visual appeal of some Walther P-38s.
Are spare parts very easy to find?
Have several carbines, but from what I've read about these, they would probably be my first choice, despite the visual appeal of some Walther P-38s.
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