The Myth that WD40 is bad for guns

[RX-79G]

And look at all the problems that have been reported with Frog Lube.

All I want in a lube is a single substance that stays the way it is over time. Doesn't separate, doesn't react with anything, doesn't denature from heat, doesn't dry out. You know; oil.

 

[boom boom]

I've used plain WD-40 on things and used other oils and greases. I find other than water displacement, WD40 is not especially great but not especially bad. For power equipment, I simply use the recommended oil/grease in the owner's manual--I don't try to outengineer the oem. For firearms, I use oils and greases depending on what I am trying to do with it.

Rig works great for long term storage, hi-temp grease works on things that slide or roll, light oil works on things that need the oil to wick with no buildup, rust/crud or frozen screw/bolt removal calls for Kroil and so on. I do not try to use one oil for everything nor one cleaning solvent for everything. I don't think the saying goes, "beware the man who uses only one cleaning solvent" or "the man who uses only one oil."

I suspect for an all purpose oil, modern ATF and synthetic motor oils would do the trick in a pinch.

 

[castile]

I use a lot of Stanley utility knives...the 99. You know, the box cutter. I like to store a lot of blades in the handle and have had some rust. I remember this particular one because it was a really old one with the brass hardware and without the interlocking front...it's an old-school one from the 50s. One time, loading one up, I slathered on the WD-40 because a) it was all that was to hand and b) I figured "why not?". I actually sharpen utility knife blades that I'm using on a ceramic stick. Keeps them cutting for a long time so I generally replace the blade when the tip breaks. So after a year or so, I open this guy up and all the blades were glued together with a varnish colored substance. Glued. Had to use acetone to break them apart. I am sure I could have pried them but I didn't want to mess up the edges.

Now, I am genuinely intrigued by the OP's assertion that the WD-40 liberated some other gluey gunk and that was what glued my utility blades together...not the residue of the WD-40 itself.

But now we're back. Whether the WD-40 introduces a varnish gunk or whether it liberates it from the area...gunk is gunk...and the outcome is the same. I have yet to come upon another gun oil that had this effect. Motor oil has not had this effect. EEZOX does not do this. In point of fact, I use these knives as my testing ground for gunking up.

Fortunately, I have not used WD-40 on a gun. If the OP's assertion is correct, and it may be, well there is nothing carrying around more goo than an old gun and I don't want WD-40 liberating it for me.

If they were used blades who knows what was on them, if they were new blades you do know that they come with a thin coat of varnish to keep them from rusting. It may be more like a thin coat of Cosmoline [spelling?]. I used to do floor covering for years. Old timers would sharpen blades I figured my time was worth more than the two cents a blade. That said If a blade in the paper would fall out of the box and get lost for a few years or so and I found it the paper was almost glued to the blade. It was the oil cosmo that was put on by the factory. Was the same with utility blades. I had 100 blade cubes that if not used would get stuck together.

 

[RX-79G]

If they were used blades who knows what was on them, if they were new blades you do know that they come with a thin coat of varnish to keep them from rusting. It may be more like a thin coat of Cosmoline [spelling?]. I used to do floor covering for years. Old timers would sharpen blades I figured my time was worth more than the two cents a blade. That said If a blade in the paper would fall out of the box and get lost for a few years or so and I found it the paper was almost glued to the blade. It was the oil cosmo that was put on by the factory. Was the same with utility blades. I had 100 blade cubes that if not used would get stuck together.

The theme seems to be that WD40, as long as there is no other previous substance involved, can be used as a gun lubricant, even though that is not what it is intended for and it doesn't do it better than lots of other cheap oils.

But WD40 does sound like a liability prone to lock up guns and other things if there are other common substances involved. It isn't non-toxic, it isn't necessarily cheaper than light machine or motor oil. Are you actually recommending it, or just making the point that WD40 gets a bum rap?


A substance that can contribute to guming up a gun, regardless of whether it does that alone or in tandem with something else common, doesn't sound like something to strongly recommend.

 

[stonecutter2]

This whole thread reads like someone who loves starting fights about how awesome WD-40 is, or something. Weird.

I have WD-40, I use it, but not on guns. Not because I'm living in fear of WD-40 damaging my guns, or some old wive's tale I've heard, there are just better options out there purpose-made for the job at hand.

If all I could have is 1 cleaner/lubricant for all tasks, I'd probably choose RemOil. It's thin, gets where it needs to, and when it dries out/evaporates it seems to still lubricate since it has Teflon in it.

If you like WD-40 and want to save its reputation in gun circles, good luck, you have your work cut out for you.

 

[stonecutter2]

Not true at all. I doubt you have even tried this. Your most likely just repeating things you heard and want to believe are true. You know Santa and the Easter bunny, show me one credible experiment showing it leaves varnish or gum. You can not find one.

How credible it is or not will of course be debatable, but I love a weird experimental challenge like this.

I need a piece of glass, already have the WD-40, and we'll see what happens.

 

[castile]

The theme seems to be that WD40, as long as there is no other previous substance involved, can be used as a gun lubricant, even though that is not what it is intended for and it doesn't do it better than lots of other cheap oils.

But WD40 does sound like a liability prone to lock up guns and other things if there are other common substances involved. It isn't non-toxic, it isn't necessarily cheaper than light machine or motor oil. Are you actually recommending it, or just making the point that WD40 gets a bum rap?


A substance that can contribute to guming up a gun, regardless of whether it does that alone or in tandem with something else common, doesn't sound like something to strongly recommend.

I am not recommending it or not recommending it. I use it as a cleaner and rust preventative and have had good luck doing so. As I have said its not my first choice in oils for long term storage but its not bad either if used correctly. Its a light lube and will evaporate leaving a very light oil coat behind. As for Lube for the working parts of a gun I don't recommend it. I prefer a heavier oil such as 3in1 or similar. Rem oil for me is also too light. Marvel Mystery oil is a great oil also. If I was to use a spray oil it would be PB to lube. Its a bit thicker and seems to cling better. WD also works great if your out in the field shoot your gun and can not really clean it. Spray it down and let it drip off and you will get by until you can do a proper cleaning.

 

[castile]

How credible it is or not will of course be debatable, but I love a weird experimental challenge like this.

I need a piece of glass, already have the WD-40, and we'll see what happens.

Take photos day by day and make sure it is in an area of little dust or out side contaminants.

 

[Arizona_Mike]

If 3in 1 is not available you need to come back to the United States. You live in BFE.

Why the confrontational tone?

Mike

 

[HoosierQ]

You are just wrong. And you gave the answer or part of it in your own anecdotal comment. Lithium especially the type used on car hinges and locks will if used in concert with WD will harden up and cause the problems you stated. Its not the WD. I had a ARE topper on my truck and the installer unbeknownst to me used Lithium grease. I then used WD as I have in all my locks on cars and trucks over the years. Over time about two months the lithium reacted with the WD and turned into an almost clay like substance. I had to disassemble the lock and deep clean it to get it working again. So it was a lesson in not mixing different based lubes. It absolutely does not gum up on its own. You stating that I am not a gun smith which you don't know and that you are which I don't know means little. You are trying to use a bully appeal to authority false logic.

So there we have it. WD-40, whether or not it by itself gums things up, will take other perfectly harmless substances found on a lot of guns and turn them into "an almost clay like substance". Since I don't want "an almost clay like substance" in my guns, and since some of them are not new (some are rather old in fact) and I cannot say just what might be in there, I do not want any WD-40 in my gun. The OP, with all due respect, is actually making the converse of his own argument. It liberates all kinds of substances and frees it up to gum up the works. With that the case, it doesn't much matter if WD-40 in and of itself won't gum up. It is seldom likely to be used in the complete absence of other substances.

I, for one, am willing to take a middle ground and state "WD-40 contributes directly to the gumming up of guns".

 

[stonecutter2]

Take photos day by day and make sure it is in an area of little dust or out side contaminants.

Yeah i'll photo the whole process and control the "contaminant" factor as best I can.

 

[springer99]

Here's some actual test results for a number of gun cleaner/preservatives that might be worth reviewing. Draw you own conclusions. All I know is that I don't use it to clean my guns, nor to lubricate them. YMMV. .....and no, it doesn't contain any fish oil, just google the MSDS sheets. What I do know is that a lot of the guys I fish saltwater with, hose down their lures and baits and swear it attracts the fish.

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

 

[Cannibul]

If 3in 1 is not available you need to come back to the United States. You live in BFE. The other thing about lithium is it attracts and holds dirt and grit. Its just not a good gun oil. I use it only on door latches, hood latches and door hinges and the like. I will use PB penetrating oil on other things that have a threaded or fine working parts. Pad locks ect. It works well on guns also.

Have you actually seen grease attract dirt? Or are you just repeating something you read on the internet?

GREASE DOESN'T ATTRACT DIRT.

Take a magnet and hold it over a pile of iron filings. See the iron filings fly up to the magnet? That's attraction. Now take a blob of grease. Hold it over a pile of dirt/dust. Let me know when you see the dirt/dust fly up to the grease.

 

[Cannibul]

Here's some actual test results for a number of gun cleaner/preservatives that might be worth reviewing. Draw you own conclusions. All I know is that I don't use it to clean my guns, nor to lubricate them. YMMV. .....and no, it doesn't contain any fish oil, just google the MSDS sheets. What I do know is that a lot of the guys I fish saltwater with, hose down their lures and baits and swear it attracts the fish.

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

I know a lot of salmon fishermen who used to spray it on their spoons and wobblers for storage. Six months later they would pull those spoons and wobblers out and spend hours cleaning off the sticky mess. Must have been that lithium grease they used on the lures.

 

[The_Next_Generation]

Before anybody posts again here regarding the "is WD40 a viable gun care product" debate, take time to read the following thread here on THR on the thorough evaluation of gun-care products, specifically lubricants/rust-inhibitors, specifically WD40 compared to others:

LINK:
http://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/results-of-gun-care-product-evaluation.751408/

Rule3 posted a link earlier that went ignored by just about all of you - the thread with the above link must have been posted by the same idividual on that other forum, because the OP is identical.

WD40 works, but is far from ideal. The "Specialist - Rust Inhibitor" WD 40 actually did quite well.

 

[doubleh]

Darn, four pages about WD-40.

Castile, I hate to bust your bubble about it being something beside WD-40 that formed the varnish like finish that I had to scrape off. There was never anything else on there except WD-40. It took a few coats and a few years but it did form a hard coat that I had to scrape off. I learned my lesson and that particular piece of machinery is in fine shape after removing that film and replacing it with good old Johnson's Paste Wax. Smooth, shiny. and film and rust free. It didn't have any rust under that film so WD-40 did prevent it from rusting.

 

[Reloadron]

Thanks for the thread, it served to remind me to wet down my neighbors slightly rusty pellet rifle with some WD 40 which I keep forgetting to do. I use WD 40 and find it really good for cleaning light rust when used with 0000 steel wool. I have also seen where people gum up the works with WD 40 from using too much too frequently. Moderation is the thing to remember when applying the stuff, moderation! Anyway, thanks for the reminder.

Ron

 

[george burns]

I can't believe you guys did 4 pages on this. I hope you don't mind me skipping this. I use them both, and if you use them for what they were intended for they both work just fine. How many retired guys on here anyway, lol

 

[Reloadron]

I can't believe you guys did 4 pages on this. I hope you don't mind me skipping this. I use them both, and if you use them for what they were intended for they both work just fine. How many retired guys on here anyway, lol

Guilty!

Ron

 

[Walkalong]

There are better penetrating oils and better lubricating oils. Tests have proven WD-40 is good at rust protection, but so are some other options. I drifted away from WD-40 years ago, but some people love it, and that's OK.

I can't believe you guys did 4 pages on this.

I can.

 

[entropy]

Lithium especially the type used on car hinges and locks will if used in concert with WD will harden up and cause the problems you stated.

No problem for me, I don't use WD-40 on guns, or did you not catch that?

I'll bet I'm not wrong about you not being a gunsmith. And I'll also bet the other gunsmiths on this board don't use WD-40, either.

And you gave the answer or part of it in your own anecdotal comment.

Working on many guns over many years is hardly anecdotal. It's not a double-blind university-sponsored study, but far from anecdotal.

I had a ARE topper on my truck and the installer unbeknownst to me used Lithium grease. I then used WD as I have in all my locks on cars and trucks over the years. Over time about two months the lithium reacted with the WD and turned into an almost clay like substance. I had to disassemble the lock and deep clean it to get it working again. So it was a lesson in not mixing different based lubes.

This is an anecdote. Unless you've done it a thousand times, like I have cleaning up WD-40 gummed-up guns.

You use a derogatory statement to complain about derogatory statements. LOL Hmmmm. If anyone has a hair you know where it sounds like you do. If you had something relevant to say about your experience with lube I may be interested. But to just gripe not really interested and easily dismissed.

And yet I come along and relate my extensive personal experience, and you poo-poo it as anecdotal. Then state I am just wrong. Wrong about what specifically?

lso on black powder nothing solvent based works. The only thing that works well is to draw a tub of hot water with dawn or some grease solvent soap. Clean the gun is as hot of water as you can and as it heats the metal and you remove it from the water the metal evaporates the water. Then put your oil of choice on the metal. I had several black powder guns for many years I shot and they looked like the day I bought them.

You are wrong here, however. Yes, hot water and Dawn works great, in that you are correct. However, it is not the only method of cleaning BP guns, and most gunsmiths I know myself included, will use T/C #13 to clean BP guns, it's a lot faster, less messy, and works very well. I use it on my own BP guns, too, sometimes.

 

[jmr40]

I don't doubt that the gun was gummed up but it was not WD that caused it directly. It was that WD is a light lub and will dissolve the grease and grime already there move it through gravity to other parts collect up and then as it evaporates leaves behind the grim and grease that was already there.

It is quite possible this is correct. But the fact is that a gum like substance or varnish was left behind by the WD-40. Other products dissolve the grease and grime and flush it completely out of the firearm leaving behind a clean surface. I don't need to see documentation from others testing. I used to use WD-40 on firearms and have seen the mess left behind. Since changing to other products designed for firearms this is no longer a problem.

 

[cfullgraf]

How many retired guys on here anyway, lol

Also guilty.

Everyday's a holiday when you are retired!

 

[Dog Soldier]

There is a big difference in WD 40 and Ballistol. THe German Military used Ballistol for treating leather. They also used it as a medicinal. It was used to treat open wounds. They never used it to catch Largemouth Bass.

 

[hdwhit]

Castile wrote:

Anecdotal evidence.

But apart from a manufacturer's FAQs that don't actually address the concerns being raised here, what "evidence" have you provided for your position?