The RUGER OLD ARMY Club
- Thread starter ClemBert
- Start date
I see what you're talking about:
"the metal around the nipples appears to be peened over a little bit, causing some raised, somewhat sharp edges."
The only way I know that can happen is if the hammer strikes it. Is it out of time? I saw something like this on a replica....the guy was fanning it.
"the metal around the nipples appears to be peened over a little bit, causing some raised, somewhat sharp edges."
The only way I know that can happen is if the hammer strikes it. Is it out of time? I saw something like this on a replica....the guy was fanning it.
Okay, thanks guys. The timing and lockup seem to be fine. I didn't notice any problems until I got some scratchy crud back there making rotation difficult. I wonder if those sharp edges are collecting extra crud. It almost looks like the previous owner used something to remove the nipples that was too big for the space and ground it against the edges of the surrounding metal. You guys don't seem too bothered by it, so I'm wondering if my problem is just with the caps.
I'll keep my eye out for some other caps, maybe those CCI magnums. In the mean time I'll cut a little dowel and make sure I'm seating these as far as they'll go.
I have a flat piece of granite-- would it be crazy to put some 1000 grit sandpaper on there and dress the back of the cylinder to remove any burrs? I also have a whetstone that may be large enough.
I'll keep my eye out for some other caps, maybe those CCI magnums. In the mean time I'll cut a little dowel and make sure I'm seating these as far as they'll go.
I have a flat piece of granite-- would it be crazy to put some 1000 grit sandpaper on there and dress the back of the cylinder to remove any burrs? I also have a whetstone that may be large enough.
Powder Keg
Member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2012
- Messages
- 12
bri1462 your cylinder looks normal to me maybe not as well finished as others the pawl should have a radius to fit the round holes in the back of cylinder unlike a pawl to fit ratchets on a center fire cylinder not an expert just my informed opinion
SUMIKITO
Member
Ratcheting/rotational forces on the ROA cylinder.....
bri1462: Pull your cylinder out of the pistol and lay it face up, the holes facing straight up on top of a flat piece of pane window glass or glass from a picture frame. The top glass from an old trashed copier machine is great. No plastic here, plain old glass. Pane glass IS always 'flatter' than a granite tile, marble slab or what not. Now feel the cylinder if it is perfectly FLAT against the glass. There should be NO wobble at all. ZERO. Perfectly flat is what we want. If it is, you are good to go. IF NOT, then get some 600 grit to 1000 grit fine sandpaper and lay it really flat against the glass and with pressure on your cylinder, run your cylinder going one way only, push or pull only, against the flat sandpaper which is flat against the glass a few times. Any burrs on your "holed ratchet rear"of your cylinder should smooth up. Wipe the rear of your cylinder clean before standing it up again on the glass to check for flatness and absence of a slight wobble. Stop when it is perfectly flat. You're done. No sweat and no harm done. 600/1000 grit only. The Old Army cylinder ratchet/hole is designed to engage a lot of area with the pawl. The pawl gets into those holes DEEP with a lot of engagement to rotate that cylinder. A true heavy-duty way to rotate a clean or dirty cylinder. Once the pawl is in there in that "ratchet hole" and you pull back the hammer, It will turn that cylinder with a lot of upward force. Can't get any stronger than that. Another testament to its superior brute force,"turning even a dirty cylinder" design......... Thank you very much again, Bill Ruger, thank you.
bri1462: Pull your cylinder out of the pistol and lay it face up, the holes facing straight up on top of a flat piece of pane window glass or glass from a picture frame. The top glass from an old trashed copier machine is great. No plastic here, plain old glass. Pane glass IS always 'flatter' than a granite tile, marble slab or what not. Now feel the cylinder if it is perfectly FLAT against the glass. There should be NO wobble at all. ZERO. Perfectly flat is what we want. If it is, you are good to go. IF NOT, then get some 600 grit to 1000 grit fine sandpaper and lay it really flat against the glass and with pressure on your cylinder, run your cylinder going one way only, push or pull only, against the flat sandpaper which is flat against the glass a few times. Any burrs on your "holed ratchet rear"of your cylinder should smooth up. Wipe the rear of your cylinder clean before standing it up again on the glass to check for flatness and absence of a slight wobble. Stop when it is perfectly flat. You're done. No sweat and no harm done. 600/1000 grit only. The Old Army cylinder ratchet/hole is designed to engage a lot of area with the pawl. The pawl gets into those holes DEEP with a lot of engagement to rotate that cylinder. A true heavy-duty way to rotate a clean or dirty cylinder. Once the pawl is in there in that "ratchet hole" and you pull back the hammer, It will turn that cylinder with a lot of upward force. Can't get any stronger than that. Another testament to its superior brute force,"turning even a dirty cylinder" design......... Thank you very much again, Bill Ruger, thank you.
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I have made a weird habit of firing my ROA and then tilting it 90 degrees to the right while cocking it. The "capcrap" (that's my technical term) mostly falls out and is less likely to jam things up.
Also, you may have some luck changing out the nipples. The Slixshot and Treso's in some cases, seem to blow less of the cap away. However, if you use RWS 1075+...they are much more powerful than most any other caps and seem to vanish no matter what you do....your mileage may vary.
Also, you may have some luck changing out the nipples. The Slixshot and Treso's in some cases, seem to blow less of the cap away. However, if you use RWS 1075+...they are much more powerful than most any other caps and seem to vanish no matter what you do....your mileage may vary.
Ghost Dog
Member
ROA conversion cylinders
I've spent the last couple of days reading up on conversion cylinders for the ROA, I have a 7.5" stainless. I'm trying to find a .45 acp stainless conversion cylinder for it and having no luck. Am I missing something? Any suggestions? I can find it in blued but not stainless.
Thanks, G D
I've spent the last couple of days reading up on conversion cylinders for the ROA, I have a 7.5" stainless. I'm trying to find a .45 acp stainless conversion cylinder for it and having no luck. Am I missing something? Any suggestions? I can find it in blued but not stainless.
Thanks, G D
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That's interesting. I just checked Kirst and they don't list the 45 acp anymore on the lead page. They do list them here though.
http://www.kirstkonverter.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=4&cat=Ruger+Old+Army+Konverters
I've also seen them for sale on Gunbroker.
http://www.kirstkonverter.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=4&cat=Ruger+Old+Army+Konverters
I've also seen them for sale on Gunbroker.
Ghost Dog
Member
Thank you AbitNutz. No luck on GB but the kirst site will do the trick. Any recommendations on cheap ammo for target shooting with it?
Thanks again, G D
Thanks again, G D
Jersey Joe
Member
These are dark times friend...roll your own is the least expensive. Other than that, just keep an eye on the "hot deal" threads on the boards and act fast.
Classic Ballistix cylinder arrived today
Got this in the mail today, Ed emailed a few days ago apologizing for the delay in communicating after i placed my order, i guess wisent has been a little under the weather. It has been worth the wait, very nice workmanship and Ed is a hell of a good man to deal with
For your viewing pleasure:
Classsic Ballistix on the right, stock Ruger on the left, note the difference in machining, classic ballistix= smooooth
sorry, crappy pic
It fits nice, good solid lock-up.
Won't be able to shoot it for a couple weeks, got to finish a patio cover for my wife before it hits 100+
It's always a trade off with women, i get a new gun,she gets a $2000 covered patio.....she owes me a couple more guns
Got this in the mail today, Ed emailed a few days ago apologizing for the delay in communicating after i placed my order, i guess wisent has been a little under the weather. It has been worth the wait, very nice workmanship and Ed is a hell of a good man to deal with
For your viewing pleasure:
Classsic Ballistix on the right, stock Ruger on the left, note the difference in machining, classic ballistix= smooooth
sorry, crappy pic
It fits nice, good solid lock-up.
Won't be able to shoot it for a couple weeks, got to finish a patio cover for my wife before it hits 100+
It's always a trade off with women, i get a new gun,she gets a $2000 covered patio.....she owes me a couple more guns
bothenook
Member
my Kirst 45acp cylinder just got here Monday, and took it out for a test drive today. fun. but....the standard load i roll for my 1911,only using a 45 colt 200 grain semi wad cutter is way way too hot. i had to shoot almost 2 feet low to hit the target (even with the sight adjusted all the way down). kind of like the '58 Remmie sitting in the safe. time to work new loads up
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SUMIKITO
Member
davepooll: Just like I mentioned before, their cylinders were bound to improve some more since they joined forces with Kirst. Like AbitNutz said, the latest ones are very very nice. The machining on Kirst cylinders have always been first class and top-notch. Great photos you took there to prove that davepool. Now you gotta get Kirsts conversions. All you need is one backplate,[Kirst Konverter Ring] [same one works for both .45 Colt & .45 acp] and you're all set. Get them before they are out of stock again so you won't have to wait. Get them straight from Kirst, on the above posted link Post 1407 by AbitNutz. ............... bothenook: The Old Army likes heavier bullets, like 230 grains in .45acp and 250/260 in .45 Colt. It does not shoot point of aim with light bullets. Use any of them standard factory loads like I mentioned on another post. Give some factory loads going + or - 850 fps a try. You will be happy with the results. Or duplicate them on your loader as they are kinda hard to source at this time. Don't load them hot or wimpy, just standard SAAMI loads. Oh, nice cool quick-change cylinder base pin you got there. Nice. Belt Mountain? All the very best to all.
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J-Bar
Member
Cane, thanks for the extra effort. That is a remarkable bit of work. You must be proud! Perhaps one of these days I can follow in your footsteps.
pwillie
Member
I now own three "Old Armys"...fixed sights! Never been fired!
Patocazador
Member
If you're not going to shoot them, at least let us look at them. Photos please.
I have owned my ROA a long time. SN# 140-003XX. Back when I got married and money was very tight, I carried it for many years as a hunting side arm. Many a Snowshoe hare and Blue Grouse have been put on the table by it.
One of the most accurate revolvers I have ever owned.
One of the most accurate revolvers I have ever owned.
SUMIKITO
Member
Swiss 4F pure black test/review coming up........
Thats great to hear AbitNutz, you are now about to enter into true magnum territory when you use Swiss 4F priming powder. Stuff it good in there. You will know after the first round goes off that you have some formidable power. No regular 'Boom' or 'Crack' here. It will be an unmistakeable 'CrakaBooom' like a black powder rifle going off! Huge fireball and dense smoke! My close friend has together with me tried this before. Talk about adjectives, Awesome! is the word. Who ever said before that the ROA is a regular o'le plain black powder revolver is in for a big surprise. Magnumitis is what it is AbitNutz. We all want to go there sometimes. The Old Army CAN handle this stuff with ease. And since it is still technically pure black powder, your pressures are still low and within safe limits with the Old Army. [Just don't try this with a Walker. No telling if it would hold up stufffed full with Swiss 4F]. Let us all know how it went. Am sure every one here would be quite pleased to know how it performed. All the very best, AbitNutz.
Thats great to hear AbitNutz, you are now about to enter into true magnum territory when you use Swiss 4F priming powder. Stuff it good in there. You will know after the first round goes off that you have some formidable power. No regular 'Boom' or 'Crack' here. It will be an unmistakeable 'CrakaBooom' like a black powder rifle going off! Huge fireball and dense smoke! My close friend has together with me tried this before. Talk about adjectives, Awesome! is the word. Who ever said before that the ROA is a regular o'le plain black powder revolver is in for a big surprise. Magnumitis is what it is AbitNutz. We all want to go there sometimes. The Old Army CAN handle this stuff with ease. And since it is still technically pure black powder, your pressures are still low and within safe limits with the Old Army. [Just don't try this with a Walker. No telling if it would hold up stufffed full with Swiss 4F]. Let us all know how it went. Am sure every one here would be quite pleased to know how it performed. All the very best, AbitNutz.
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