The tight patch - or "Every rifle is a law unto its own"

.38 Special

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It seems to me that ball/patch combos have been getting tighter over the past few decades, and I get mildly annoyed with the "tight patch" crowd - the ones who insist that incredibly tight patch/ball combos are the only way to get accuracy. I really shouldn't be, as it's their business, but whatever. There's just something about telling a newbie that his .54 will do best with a .535 ball and a .025 patch (to use a recent example seen on a Facebook group) that gets on my nerves. Hope the poor bugger brings a hammer.

At any rate, the topic comes up because I've just finished extensive load testing with what turned out to be a finicky .36 flintlock from Kibler. After hundreds of benchrest rounds involving balls from .340 up to .355, and patch thicknesses from .005 up through .020 (and multiple different lubes and four different powders) the rifle showed a real preference for a .350 ball and a .010 patch. This combo loads easily even in a fouled bore (it should, as it barely even fills the grooves) and outshoots nearly every other load, including the ones that have to be pounded down the bore. The only other load that is as good is the same ball, same patch material, and same lube, but a .015 thickness. I honestly can't tell any difference in accuracy between the two, but of course the tighter patch takes a lot more effort to get down the bore.

Some guns, of course, do their best work with a tight combo. The most common phenomenon, in my experience, is a rifle which is technically more accurate with a tight combo, but the difference is so marginal it gets lost in the noise of actual field shooting under realistic conditions. And every once in a while you will come across a gun which actually gets worse with a tighter combo, like my squirrel rifle.

Just based on what I'm seeing on the internet these days, a lot of folks won't even try a looser combo, apparently believing that either A) there's no way one could give good accuracy, or B) tighter is automatically better under all conditions, so use the tightest combo you can possibly manage. I'd encourage folks to keep a more open mind about the topic.

</rant>
 
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In the over 40 years of muzzle loading shooting, I have found that "Shallow Grooved" rifles , Like the T/C's, tend to shoot better with a tight ball and patch combo. Deeper grooved rifling, especially radius bottom rifling, tend to shoot best with a ball that is .010 under bore diameter and a .010-.018 patch. Just my experience, YMMV.
 
In the over 40 years of muzzle loading shooting, I have found that "Shallow Grooved" rifles , Like the T/C's, tend to shoot better with a tight ball and patch combo. Deeper grooved rifling, especially radius bottom rifling, tend to shoot best with a ball that is .010 under bore diameter and a .010-.018 patch. Just my experience, YMMV.
@.38 Special I was set to mention this ^^^ phenomenon… I’ve heard it said so many times that it’s become a truism even though I have several TC’s that shoot very well with a .530 ball and .010 or so patching. (Actually I think one of the reasons folks aren’t getting better accuracy from their TC’s is that they’re using the stock sights)
 
I have found significant improvements in accuracy just by changing my lube.
Yes, in my Jeager, (round bottom rifling) lube seems to be the biggest variable. I set up my ball and patch combo so that I can get about three repeat shots without it being difficult to re-load. Also thick patch, small ball seems to work best for me, but I'm always in favor of "practical" or "hunting accuracy" and easy loading, over target accuracy and tight loading. Just as an experiment I've shot .570" balls in my .62 Jeager with denim patches. Not "great", but they stayed on a paper plate at 80 yards, which I thought was surprising. A .600" ball with .018-.020" patch gives me the best combination of hunting accuracy and easy loading. If I don't kill it with 4-5 shots, it's time to sit down under a tree or next to the crick, clean the bore a bit, and smoke a cigar.
 
Something my Jeager does, if I put two wool wads, one un-lubed over the powder, and one dipped in pure wax, no lube over that/under the ball, my patches will come out re-useable, although I don't re-use them. No wads, or just one, and the patches will appear burnt and cut just like they had been cut when loading. (kind of impossible with a coned muzzle, and how would two wads sew the patches back together, if they were cut on loading?)

In my rifle, I've tried every lube under the sun, and many combinations of them all, and "Wonder Lube 1000" always comes out the winner. I was very excited to use bear-oil after I got my bear, but it was just "meh", did not surpass the wonder lube.
 
Something my Jeager does, if I put two wool wads, one un-lubed over the powder, and one dipped in pure wax, no lube over that/under the ball, my patches will come out re-useable, although I don't re-use them. No wads, or just one, and the patches will appear burnt and cut just like they had been cut when loading. (kind of impossible with a coned muzzle, and how would two wads sew the patches back together, if they were cut on loading?)

In my rifle, I've tried every lube under the sun, and many combinations of them all, and "Wonder Lube 1000" always comes out the winner. I was very excited to use bear-oil after I got my bear, but it was just "meh", did not surpass the wonder lube.
Plus it seasons the bore so you can get 1000 shots off without cleaning, or fry eggs without sticking or something…
 
You can't season steel nor should you want to. Seasoning is a layer of built up carbon.
I'm with ya Hawg. It seems like everybody who talks about seasoning a bore uses "Bore Butter". I have no Idea if Bore Butter and Wonder Lube are the same thing. I have noticed that the Bore Butter is a much lighter color than Wonder Lube. ?? Smells different too. I have a jar of Bore Butter somewhere that someone gave me. Anyhow, the Wonder Lube 1000 is the best patch lube, I've found, for my rifle. But I prefer a clean bore to a layer of anything on it.

I wonder if that .50" TC barrel I have, that has "micro-pits" was perhaps "seasoned". ? Then sat for ten years or more? It had no visible rust, but it had a layer of "something". When I finally got that layer off, the bore was covered with them-thar "micro pits" which looked like frosting.
 
I'm with ya Hawg. It seems like everybody who talks about seasoning a bore uses "Bore Butter". I have no Idea if Bore Butter and Wonder Lube are the same thing. I have noticed that the Bore Butter is a much lighter color than Wonder Lube. ?? Smells different too. I have a jar of Bore Butter somewhere that someone gave me. Anyhow, the Wonder Lube 1000 is the best patch lube, I've found, for my rifle. But I prefer a clean bore to a layer of anything on it.

I wonder if that .50" TC barrel I have, that has "micro-pits" was perhaps "seasoned". ? Then sat for ten years or more? It had no visible rust, but it had a layer of "something". When I finally got that layer off, the bore was covered with them-thar "micro pits" which looked like frosting.

I don't know about now but Bore Butter used to say on the tube that it seasoned barrels. Yeah and silver spring steel was a real thing in 1860. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
 
In my match shooting days we patched tight. Tight enough so that you would get patch impressions on both lands and grooves. For a few of my .45 rifles I used a .445 ball and .008" Linen. My 58 took a 575 with .012 ticking, ball started with a peg and mallet. Set a national record with the .58. Held up for a whole six months.
Hunting, .437 ball and linen patch with 30 more grains of powder.
 
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