time for a revolver

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so i stopped by gun world to check out a few of the above listed wheel guns. i fiddled with a 4" 686. it felt good and aimed naturally but the cylinder release was a little awkward for me. it also felt fairly light in my hands, which is saying a lot since i'm not exactly a hulk.

i moved on to the GP100. i could instantly feel the weight difference. i'm not all too fond about the construction of the two guns, but this one felt sturdier to me. this one aimed pretty well for me also. the cylinder release was much easier on this one. i loved the way it was weighted.

after a while of debating with myself and asking the worker for his advice, he pretty much said that both guns were as good as it gets. since i was so stumped on which to purchase i decided to go based on price... i hadn't even noticed that the 4" 686 was $750 while a blue (what i prefer) GP was only $580.

At any rate, I took my handgun safety test and got a 100%. I now own a GP and will be going to pick it up on 11/6. One major gripe I do have is that the stock grips are hideous. Are there any custom grips that some of you guys can recommend?
 
Congratulations on your safety test score, and your first revolver Hyphen. The GP100 is a great revolver.

Can you elaborate on why you think the stock grips on the GP100 are "hideous"? Do you mean looks, grip size, feel?

  • If it's looks, you can replace the black plastic inserts with all sorts of wood inserts. Try Lett or others.
  • If the grip is too long, you can replace it with a rubber grips from a 3" fixed-sight GP100,
  • If it's feel, my used GP100 came with nice Hogue rubber grips, but I found the 3" GP100 grips fit my hand better...

Good luck, and let us know what you think after you get it to the range.
 
Ruger GP100 (4") or the smaller SP101.

I have both; for daily carry I opt for the SP (2"). I am awaiting a holster from Simply Rugged for the GP to use in the desert (I already have one of Jim's holsters for the SP).

Both guns are dead reliable and fun to shoot.

Good luck...
 
The grips are, in my opinion, ugly. They were also a bit too long, if there were finger grooves it probably wouldn't fit my skinny fingers. I plan on changing them for looks alone and will probably opt for wooden grips.

These grips look nice but I don't know if it will feel right with those grooves.

xrgp100.jpg



The hogues look nice but again, not sure how well they will work with my skinny fingers.
 
For nice looking wood, you might check out:

Eagle Grips

Hogue
or

Ajax

Grip fit and feel is such a personal thing that you'll never know how they'll work until you're actually holding them in your hand. Unfortunately, many of us have a box full of grips that we've tried...but haven't liked. And with fine wood grips, the costs can add up quickly. :(

If you belong to a club or range, maybe ask around to see if anyone has after-market grips on their GP100 (or 686) that you could "test drive".
 
awesome sites. i'm going to spend some time browsing those. thanks for the help. i'll have to see how well these stock grips work at the range and will go from there.
 
Congrats on selecting the GP100. :)

I will be switching to a 3" fixed sight GP100 after the New Year. Right now I carry a S&W 22-4 Thunder Ranch Revolver in 45 ACP. One of the major reasons I am switching is because the lock on this gun failed during the first fifty rounds of firing.

S&W of course denied a lock "problem", but did repair the thing and send it back to me. It has since fired over 1,000 rounds with no problems. If I want a lock on my guns I will put them in the safe, not turn a bloody key in the gun.

For Black Bear my minimum caliber is a 44 Mag, for Browns it's a 454 or a 500. I like the fact that Rugers don't currently have the "lock" and that they are hell for stout.

As far as aftermarket stocks, check out Badger. I'm going to have a set put on my GP100, as well as some custom work by Gemini Customs. Everything I've seen that Marc at Gemini does has been fantastic. :D If you do have to use a 357 Mag for bear I would look for a hard cast bullet. Check out Buffalo Bore.

Biker
 
They are expensive but Nill has beautiful stocks for your new Ruger GP100. They are a work of art IMO.

On the other end of the price spectrum there is Kelly Arms They make quality stocks for a very low price.

Craig Spegel and Kim Ahrends stocks are also very beautiful and extremely high quality but I think they only make grips for S&W revolvers.

Good luck finding something you like...
 
Did you shop other gunstores? Unless CA stores are all the same, price wise, you should have gotten better prices. The MSRP for the blued 4" GP100, GP-141, is $575, while the 6-shot 686 (in SS), SKU #164222, has an MSRP of $766. The SS GP100, KGP141, has an MSRP of $635. S&W lists their 6-shot's weight as 40 oz - the 686+ 7-shot, SKU #164194, is missing metal from another chamber in it's cylinder, so it weighs 38.5 oz. The 4" GP100 weighs 41 oz. The 620 I mentioned, #164401, weighs 37.9 oz and has an MSRP of $751. Both brands' prices may have increased since the early spring, when these prices were recorded ('07 Catalogs).

You will likely be quite content with the GP100. It's grip stud, the part of the frame that the grips slide up on, is the same size as the Super Redhawk's stud, so they can take the same grips (They also share the same lockwork.). Get to your dealer - or another one, if need be, and test the feel of the Super Redhawk 'Alaskan' in any caliber. If you like it's shorter grip and finger grooves, pick up the phone and call Ruger to order that grip - give them your model number to insure that they fit, but I don't believe they have shortened the grip stud on the Alaskans, so they should fit perfectly. You can also get different inserts for the original grip - even wood. As this is your first revolver - and you will likely 'test' it with some real .357 Magnums, you'll be happier with the recoil absorption of rubber grips - wood 'enhances' the recoil experience. Besides, it's better to spend the bucks saved on ammo and range rental... and get some brass/bronze separate bore and chamber brushes to clean with. Have fun, too!

Stainz
 
Gp100

I feel that there is no better DA .357 magnum currently on the market than the GP100.

I don't get caught up in the strength differences between the 686 and the GP100, because as far as I'm concerned, there is no comaprison. I like 686s, but I would never buy a new one because I've read too many complaints on different boards about Smith and Wesson timing issues. I've seen two 686 complaints on this board in the last month. Both people said that they didn't believe that Revolvers were more reliable than their semi automatics because of all of the timing issues that they've had with their 686s. On the other hand, I haven't run across too many complaints about GP100s. As a matter of fact, I've never seen a GP100 timing complaint, ever.

The solid frame, triple locking cylinder, modular design all contribute to make the GP100 a more solid, and durable platform than the Smiths. Smith and Wesson started to adopt their own knock-off versions of the Ruger triple locking cylinder and Ruger's ejector rod design in their Smith and Wesson 500. If these two design features don't make a difference in durability and reliability, then why is Smith and Wesson copying Ruger on their most powerful handgun? The lockwork of a revolver is just as important as the frame when it comes down to reliability.
 
if you want to spent 500 or so get a GP 100 600 i'd get a S&W 686. I love my GP-100. If you want to save some cash a Taurus Tracker is a good gun too
 
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