Time for that yearly cleaning of my work gun

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I think that's a fair assessment. 10mm and .357Mag top out about the same, however a .357Mag revolver can handle very light loads while a 10mm autopistol is likely going to start to have function issues if you load too light for it.

If capacity isn't a concern, then the only benefit of a 10mm might be a flatter package for carry.

Cleaning would be the same as for the revolver. Unload it, blast out the trigger & trigger housing area with something like Hornady One Shot and then reload and reassemble. I would worry about dust collecting inside the mag and eventually causing problems, so maybe a revolver is an easier solution from that standpoint.

Regardless the particular circumstances of custody of the gun, training, adrenaline, whatever..... I will always and forever go to that poor schlub turned to bear food on a hunt after (again REGARDLESS the reason) the magazine was dropped from his 10mm Glock.

Me? I already KNOW that I'm not perfect and simply don't care to take the chance.


Todd.
 
Regardless the particular circumstances of custody of the gun, training, adrenaline, whatever..... I will always and forever go to that poor schlub turned to bear food on a hunt after (again REGARDLESS the reason) the magazine was dropped from his 10mm Glock.

Me? I already KNOW that I'm not perfect and simply don't care to take the chance.


Todd.

Reminds me of the arguments of, “revolver beats auto in a hostile animal encounter,” threads. Maybe wheel guns are inherently easier to manipulate in a tense situation.
 
I would smear those parts with grease and see how they look next winter.

The reality of using lubricant on firearms that are used in the field is that it attracts the things that we don't want on the mechanical innards of them. Next time you open the hood of your vehicle, notice where the dirt collects on the engine; that'll be anywhere it's leaking lubricant!

35W
 
The reality of using lubricant on firearms that are used in the field is that it attracts the things that we don't want on the mechanical innards of them. Next time you open the hood of your vehicle, notice where the dirt collects on the engine; that'll be anywhere it's leaking lubricant!

35W
So true.
Grease doesnt leak, it clings.
That's a revolver, not a Chevy
 
So true.
Grease doesnt leak, it clings.
That's a revolver, not a Chevy

So you've never greased a piece of equipment and seen dirt, grass, etc. that sticks to the grease that oozed out of the fitting?

When I was about 15 years old carting the beautiful Remington 870TB my father gave me to use on the 4H trap team, through the dusty field of Texas, I learned pretty quick that oil on the internal parts made things worse. I also learned that a quality firearm kept reasonably clean and free of carbon and fouling, didn't need much, if any lubrication.

35W
 
Interesting thread.
1. Tool - Custom Built to Application
2. Hard Use
3. Well chosen, tested and proven accessories.
4. No BS

Nothing I'm qualified to comment on but I have highly enjoyed reading the entire thread.
 
One thing keeping me from buying a 327 PC is the lack of availability of rubber boot grips. OP, how much modding did your grip require to work and does it stay in place well?
 
"A revolver won’t be moved out of battery pressing it into the chest or mouth of a large furry creature..."


One of the reasons that I prefer revolvers is due to the time I was hiking with a family friend in the Superstition Mountains and discovered at the end of the day that the Beretta he'd lent me (I flew in from out of state) had gotten pushed slightly out of battery during the hike and would have gone "click" instead of "bang" if I'd needed it.

I am in awe of bluejeans' rig and job. That kind of work would have been perfect for me when I was a young man: restless, loved to hike, loved the outdoors, lots of energy, better off without too many people around, etc. Now that ship has sailed, due to age, but it's nice to think about the "what could have beens". :)

Thanks for the great thread.
 
In cold weather grease is glue.
Also in some hot weather. Ironically (paradoxically?) RIG - which I otherwise love - can turn into a damn friction buffer, if not outright lock things up, if too much is left too long in too much heat.

Too, you REALLY want to know the score on cold weather weapons care, find a re-print of the after action reports of German soldiers in the first two winters of the Eastern Front. The pamphlets used to be readily found at the booksellers at gun shows.

This one is mostly operational whereas the best deal with vehicles and weaponry.

Todd.
IMG_1229.JPG
 
Yall do as you please, mine gets grease. We use grease in a big way around here. I buy it by the case of 100tubes and it costs $8/tube. I have three electric guns for it too. its funny to me that they work all winter. Iuse it in everything from wheel bearings to guns.
If it turned to glue in cold weather, your car wouldn't move.
 
Yall do as you please,
Ditto :D


I guess it is, if you insist on using WWII technology. Today we have greases which do not become “glue” at -40*. F. You might want to look into them if you have the need...

https://thegunzone.com/best-gun-grease/

.

Having been born a few years after WW2 I tend to use more modern technology. I have tried more modern greases on semiautomatic guns and the results at temps below freezing were not good. The good thing is the gun would fire... one round. The cycling had a lot to be desired.
I tried grease on a Colt 1991A1 (1911), 2 M1 Carbines, an M1 Garand and an AR15.
I used a white lithium grease, a molybdenum based grease and a grease called Alvania, I believe. None of these faired well in operation. Oh, the grease faired well. When temps rose it maintained its original consistency. So, when a company selling grease tells me it handles “extreme temperatures” I personally think “Yes, the grease can handle the temps, but does it operate well?”

You gents can use your grease and tout your grease all you like. I am not here to preach at you to come over to my way of thinking and it won’t bruise my ego if you disagree with me, but I will stick with synthetic oils and no oils in some cases when it comes to lubrication at freezing temperatures.

Watching the slide or a bolt slowly creep forward after firing a round is quite humorous to watch...unless that next round being loaded is the round you need in an extreme situation.
I would recommend testing your greases out to be sure they actually work at really low temps. If they do, that is a plus. :thumbup: And not on a tractor bearing...on a gun. The weight of a tractor rolling against cold grease is quite a bit more that a bolt weighing a few ounces competing against frozen sludge.

My 2 cents
 
One thing keeping me from buying a 327 PC is the lack of availability of rubber boot grips. OP, how much modding did your grip require to work and does it stay in place well?
Here ya go @SteadyD
This is what an Unmodified k-l grip looks like on an n-frame.
E5935920-D0A9-4FC2-8DC6-03926E1C8ADA.jpeg 20424C2B-B2E0-4807-8DB0-453079C42C2F.jpeg
The contour of the back straps and the alignment of the index pin on the heel of the frame are the same as well as the lines of the trigger guard... the only difference is in the semi-circle cut at the top to the grip on the frame which is what grips use to center front/back.

As you can see all the grip needs is for the top to rock 1/8” to the rear.
Just take off 1/8” inside the grip with a razor blade here where this screw is pointing:

1A0EE49E-36FE-499E-AFB2-EAF9830A6035.jpeg
Of course you should taper the trim as you reach the peak of the semi circle. Then add a couple drops of epoxy or jb weld to the opposite side As fill so it doesn’t wiggle.... and voila!
 
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