tool(s), videos, SD and range ammo for new AR?

[Buzznrose]

OLS,

At the risk of sounding like a jerk man, you are overthinking this. I’d tell you this regardless your gender.

I get it. LOTS aid info to digest. But you really don’t need all of it. I’ll try to be to the point:

“Lube” just means lubrication. Oil and grease both lubricate. Ballistol is fine for your AR, but I do suggest you also consider a thicker lubricant like SLIP 2000 just for the bolt carrier group. Just a few drops and rub it all over. That makes the BCG “wet”—not dripping wet! Ballistol for all else is perfect!

Cleaning...a rod or bore snake would be needed for the barrel, no different than a handgun. A chamber brush helps with that area. I also use QTips and tooth brushes.

Optics. Depends on the optic if you need a tool to adjust. Some are finger adjustable. Some require a small Allen wrench or screwdriver. Most that need an Allen wrench provide it. But iron sights are fine too if they work for you, especially at close range. A Laser may be a consideration...

WML: the general acceptable method is to mount the light where you can activate it with your support hand on and off as needed. But some of this is overblown. Better to just keep a light on in your home at all times. A strobe will disorient you as much as it will the bad guy. You need to know what you are shooting at. The attacker will just shoot away regardless, you need to make hits that count...and you have to see to do that.

Ammo: ANY 55gr FMJ rounds will work...period. Any for range work great and will also stop an attacker. At 25 yards or less, accuracy will pretty much be the same...

That said, I have 55gr soft point bullets in my HD gun mags.

Heavier ammo is really more critical for longer range shooting as it stabilizes better in flight. But if you want to load 62-77 grain rounds for HD, that’s fine. At 50 feet or less, accuracy won’t be that different than 55 gr FMJ.

Tip: Sight in your gun with whatever HD rounds you choose, and accept the fact that range work with different rounds might be a bit different point of impact. No big deal.

1 arm handling after being shot in arm...wow! I’m pretty sure I can’t run my AR worth crap with one arm! It would take a lot. A sling would help with retention but maybe not with shooting, depending what arm and how it affected me.

Snap caps. You get two because that’s what you get from that company. Only one needed for dry fire practice unless you manually eject it.

Some folks use snap caps for malfunction drills, and load them randomly in magazines for practice clearing malfunctions during drills.

Sorry this is so long. Hope this helps. Take care!

 

[taliv]

great questions!

AMMO:

as someone else stated, at HD ranges, you're not going to be able to tell any difference in accuracy and terminal ballistics is going to be sufficient on anything. i prefer rounds that fragment instead of expand normally, but if your barrel is only 7.5", i'd go with one that expands.
7.5" is also going to be gassy and very loud

SIGHTS:
Do your best to keep a fairly normal head position, comfortable and not leaned over too much. bring the gun to your head and put the site between your eye and the target. this is as opposed to putting your head behind the gun and trying to search for the target. the first way is faster and you keep your peripheral vision.

don't get overly distracted by co witness or lower 1/3rd. i don't even use iron sights anymore. but this is sort of personal preference. some people think having the dot sitting on top of their front site post is annoying. other people don't like having to shift their eye lower to use the irons.

also, look at some of the tall mounts like 1.93". i recently switched to these and it's much better so far


TOOLS / CLEANING:

1. The AR was designed to be "field stripped" for cleaning by a soldier with nothing more than a cartridge. they use the tip of the bullet to poke the pins out, etc. if for some reason you can't do it with your fingers. so you don't NEED "tools" unless you're performing armorer-level tasks.
obviously, you're going to want some cleaning tools like brushes. avoid bore snakes on most rifles but in this case it would probably be fine.

2. most are designed to be adjusted with a dime or the rim of a cartridge. some nicer ones have the adjustment tool built into the cover.

3. as stated in a previous reply, oil and grease are both types of lube. for the entire AR, i would use oil, not grease. grease tends to stay in place better, but it also holds dirt etc and becomes more like a polishing compound. copious amounts of oil will wash debris away. if you put too much oil on, the expanding gas will blow it out of the receiver and all over your nice clothes. that's pretty much the downside of using too much oil. 20 years of fighting in the desert has proven that wetter is more reliable than dry and there are some examples of guns going tens of thousands of rounds with no cleaning and just adding lube. but fairly dry and meticulously clean works too.
7.5" barrels are not the most reliable configuration, so you may need to pay a bit more attention to this if it starts to feel sluggish or starts failing to feed.

4. keep in mind the military makes people clean their rifles in a fairly ridiculous overkill manner, for reasons that have nothing to do with optimal operation of the rifle. many people become OCD about this or believe that level of cleaning is necessary, and it's widely believed they do more damage by cleaning than shooting. there was also a period of time last century where corrosive primers were used and you needed to clean after every use. and per the previous answer, some people don't put enough lube on their ARs and they become less reliable when dirty, so they have to clean more frequently.

i've been shooting my ARs a LOT lately. I haven't cleaned any of them this year. when i clean, i use brake cleaner, and hose off the BCG and chamber and bore, being careful not to splash any on the optics or other bits. then i squirt a bunch of lube back in the BCG, and may run a patch down the barrel to remove any liquid (brake cleaner evaporates super fast though).

do not scrape carbon off the tail of the bolt.
do not worry about aligning the gas rings
do inspect everything for wear and there are a couple function checks you should do

5. SLIP2000 EWL is pretty much the best lube you can buy. but you could use anything. the military at one point seemed to favor combo products "CLP" that clean, lube, protect. some products do a better job of rust prevention than others. there's a great sticky on this in the gear forum. so everyone does it different, and that's mostly ok. something that does all 3 is probably not going to be the best at all 3, but it's ok. the only one i'm picky about is using the best at lubrication.


NOT PREVIOUSLY DISCUSSED:
you don't need snap caps. dry fire it a million times. won't hurt it.

 

[Texas10mm]

I'm going to put this out there.

The AR platform was designed to be lubed with grease. Yep, LSA is a grease.

https://www.cherrybalmz.com/history-vietnam-and-the-great-disconnect

I'd highly recommend taking a basic carbine class. They will cover topics you haven't even began to think about yet.

Things like optics offset, clearing malfunctions, and basic handling.

 

[12Bravo20]

I haven't cleaned any of my AR's so clean that they pass a military inspection since getting out of the Army. I usually use a bore mop or clothe swap on the barrels and use a brush as needed. I do make sure to wipe the carbon from the bolt and bolt carrier and the inside of the upper receiver. I'm old school and still use Break-Free CLP. Any good CLP (Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant) will work as will motor oil. Everyone has given you good advice.

One thing I will add. You do not need to clean the gas tube, ever.

No need for special tools for field stripping and cleaning.

Use what ever sights work best for you. A Red dot or small Prism Sight will work well. Nothing wrong with Iron Sights either.

Ammo - use the same weight for practice as you will for SH/HD

Make sure you train, train, train. Training is important no matter if you are using a hand gun, rifle, or shotgun.

 

[taliv]

The AR platform was designed to be lubed with grease. Yep, LSA is a grease.

i don't want to get into a semantic debate about where the line is between oil and grease. if you want to call LSA a grease because it has a bit of thickener, even though it says oil on the package, then you'd also call slip2000 a grease. cooking oil and motor oil are thicker and less runny than sewing machine oil, but i still call them oils. grease, to me, is the stuff you put in a grease gun, or gun lubes marketed as grease, like that red stuff in the syringe. grease to me, has ceased to become a fluid. and that is too thick for ARs. LSA and slip2000 are still both liquids and while excess will run off, enough stays where you put it to keep the parts lubed a reasonable length of time.

 

[Texas10mm]

View attachment 923147
i don't want to get into a semantic debate about where the line is between oil and grease. if you want to call LSA a grease because it has a bit of thickener, even though it says oil on the package, then you'd also call slip2000 a grease. cooking oil and motor oil are thicker and less runny than sewing machine oil, but i still call them oils. grease, to me, is the stuff you put in a grease gun, or gun lubes marketed as grease, like that red stuff in the syringe. grease to me, has ceased to become a fluid. and that is too thick for ARs. LSA and slip2000 are still both liquids and while excess will run off, enough stays where you put it to keep the parts lubed a reasonable length of time.

Ya need to read the article I linked.

Just because YOU think that grease is thick doesn't make it so.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NLGI_consistency_number

 

[taliv]

Ya need to read the article I linked.

Just because YOU think that grease is thick doesn't make it so.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NLGI_consistency_number

I read it before I replied. He simply stated (at the end of an excruciatingly long essay) that LSA is a “semi fluid grease” because it has very small amounts of a thickener.

That doesn’t change the fact that the people who produce it and the military label it an “oil”. And that everyone thinks of it as an oil.
And that A medium thick oil is better than grease or light oils for ARs.

also note that the wiki article you linked says “common greases” are 1-3 which means they’re “soft to hard”

 

[CapnMac]

One of the tricky things here is that so many answers are good, and specific firearms are individual.

My A2 is zeroed for 62gr ballistic tips (started out with Nosler, now it's Hornady). When I run 55gr WWB FMJ, I just hold off (L1D2).
The LE6920 seems to "like" 68gr HPBTs, although it seems to want to put 55gr 'service' ammo in about the same location as the heavier ammo. This is a happy (and rare) thing, and I'm sore inclined to leave that alone until differences occur. Some of that might be the ACOG on the LE6920, versus the Holosun on the A2.

Slings--I have about 5 so far, that's life. The LE6920 has a Vickers on it right now, but the Magpul is a contender, too.

"Cleaning tools" covers a lot of ground. I have a multiple-drawer tool box to keep track of all the things I have. I have several one piece rods of varying lengths--that's from having been at this a long time, not out of need.
For an AR, the minimum I'd probably keep would be a one piece that would clean the barrel, then a jag tip (pointed is my preference, but a loop will work, too) and a "torpedo" brush (loops rather than pointed bristles).
I like having a pistol-length rod to mount the chamber brush on, so I can give that a good scrub when needed.
Some will argue for a scraping blade to clear carbon off the bolt. I just use the GI-issue "tooth brush."

As above, the AR is pretty simple. It's simple in much the same way an iPhone is simple--once you know how, it's pretty effortless.

One of the spiffier things about AR are the number of things, bits, and bobs, being made for them. If you wonder if a "this" could be "that" way instead, often the answer is "yes." You might have to ask around a bit.

 

[old lady new shooter]

This is great, thank you so much, I'm now clear on almost everything!

I do have a few comments and a couple additional questions, this time I'm going to quote specific statements from everyone's posts:

Better to just keep a light on in your home at all times. A strobe will disorient you as much as it will the bad guy.

I have automatic nightlights in several locations, depending where BG is I might be able to see well enough for the first shot... As is well known, this gun makes a pretty good flash, so how much I'll be able to see after that with only the night light(s) is a question mark. A regular light is off the table, I don't want to help BG see me. As for a strobe disorienting me, without trying one I don't know if that would be the case or not. That's why I said if I could get one that has a strobe setting amongst others, I can try it out while practicing, and if I find that it disorients me I will obviously pick another setting. If the strobe is a no-go, then I would like if the on/off button is somewhere I can reach with some part of my support hand without unduly disrupting my grip. (For me, the mag well is the most comfortable position for the support hand.)

I would really appreciate if anyone can recommend something reliable that's lightweight and matches what I'm looking for.

1 arm handling after being shot in arm...wow! I’m pretty sure I can’t run my AR worth crap with one arm! It would take a lot. A sling would help with retention but maybe not with shooting, depending what arm and how it affected me.

Well, you know the old saying, "If you fail to plan...". So if me coming here and asking all these questions, a lot of which might have seemed dumb or overly complicated, also resulted in helping someone else by providing something important they need to think about, I'm happy.

To the substance, the only idea I thought of so far was brace the gun against one's midsection and point at BG. Not gonna be able to make a head shot or even be exactly in the best spot COM, but maybe enough shots somewhere on the torso will stop the threat. IAC better than giving up. For me personally I highly doubt that with only one arm working I could fire at all effectively from the shoulder. Not to mention I don't even know whether even with both hands I'm gonna be able to shoot equally well off either shoulder, which would obviously be a good skill to have.

7.5" is also going to be gassy and very loud

I'm aware that it's REALLY loud. Thankfully I invested in hardening this house when I bought it, it will take long enough for BGs to get in for me to put muffs on. I'm going to practice getting out of bed, putting on muffs, grabbing the gun, and getting to the most logical place to defend from depending on where they are trying to get in, goal one minute or less. I think it's doable, if I find otherwise I'll have to rethink.

when i clean, i use brake cleaner, and hose off the BCG and chamber and bore, being careful not to splash any on the optics or other bits. then i squirt a bunch of lube back in the BCG, and may run a patch down the barrel to remove any liquid (brake cleaner evaporates super fast though).

To use brake cleaner do you need to wear nitrile gloves? And have good ventilation?
When you say "hose off" do you mean you're pouring a lot of brake cleaner on those places, or do you mean you're rinsing it off with water afterwards?

do not scrape carbon off the tail of the bolt.
do not worry about aligning the gas rings
do inspect everything for wear and there are a couple function checks you should do

OK noted, to the first two. Where can I learn about the function checks you mention?

SLIP2000 EWL is pretty much the best lube you can buy.

OK, I found it at Midway. The manufacturer comments say it is non-toxic and you can actually use it for everything? What do you think about this?

Amazon also carries it and I noticed there that an "ARES 70004 - Precision Oiler Pen Applicator" pops as a suggestion on the page. The link to it is https://www.amazon.com/ARES-70004-Precision-Applicator-Lubricants/dp/B017L1MOJA . Do I need something like this? Or does it come out of the bottle top at the right speed by itself?

Midway also has a special on a cleaning kit from RealAvid (https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1020470260?pid=571152) that has all the normal cleaning stuff we discussed plus some items I won't be using based on your previous comments, plus a mat with little step by step diagrams, for $34.99. I had looked for a kleenbore kit, since that's what I have for my revolvers, and with much less stuff that one is $49.99, so this RealAvid one looks like a good deal.

Placed order for both items.

basic carbine class. They will cover topics you haven't even began to think about yet.

Things like optics offset, clearing malfunctions, and basic handling.

Classes are off the table until coronavirus is over. I will look for videos on those topics, thanks.

You do not need to clean the gas tube, ever.

Noted, thanks.

.........................

Meanwhile I also ordered the Gold Dot, the red dot sight, and a case. Holding off on p-mags until tomorrow, they are apparently in almost as short supply as ammo. Brownells has 10 for $134.90, a LGS website says $12.30 apiece but don't know if they're actually in stock, going to call and find out.

Went to order the sling and am not clear on this. They have a padded version, which sounds like a good idea, but are all the Blue Force Gear Vickers "two-point"? Also, page says it fits an M-4 and to fit other weapons additional hardware is needed, where do I fit there?

................................

Thanks again, good night for now.

 

[horsey300]

This is great, thank you so much, I'm now clear on almost everything!

I do have a few comments and a couple additional questions, this time I'm going to quote specific statements from everyone's posts:


I have automatic nightlights in several locations, depending where BG is I might be able to see well enough for the first shot... As is well known, this gun makes a pretty good flash, so how much I'll be able to see after that with only the night light(s) is a question mark. A regular light is off the table, I don't want to help BG see me. As for a strobe disorienting me, without trying one I don't know if that would be the case or not. That's why I said if I could get one that has a strobe setting amongst others, I can try it out while practicing, and if I find that it disorients me I will obviously pick another setting. If the strobe is a no-go, then I would like if the on/off button is somewhere I can reach with some part of my support hand without unduly disrupting my grip. (For me, the mag well is the most comfortable position for the support hand.)

I would really appreciate if anyone can recommend something reliable that's lightweight and matches what I'm looking for.


Well, you know the old saying, "If you fail to plan...". So if me coming here and asking all these questions, a lot of which might have seemed dumb or overly complicated, also resulted in helping someone else by providing something important they need to think about, I'm happy.

To the substance, the only idea I thought of so far was brace the gun against one's midsection and point at BG. Not gonna be able to make a head shot or even be exactly in the best spot COM, but maybe enough shots somewhere on the torso will stop the threat. IAC better than giving up. For me personally I highly doubt that with only one arm working I could fire at all effectively from the shoulder. Not to mention I don't even know whether even with both hands I'm gonna be able to shoot equally well off either shoulder, which would obviously be a good skill to have.


I'm aware that it's REALLY loud. Thankfully I invested in hardening this house when I bought it, it will take long enough for BGs to get in for me to put muffs on. I'm going to practice getting out of bed, putting on muffs, grabbing the gun, and getting to the most logical place to defend from depending on where they are trying to get in, goal one minute or less. I think it's doable, if I find otherwise I'll have to rethink.


To use brake cleaner do you need to wear nitrile gloves? And have good ventilation?
When you say "hose off" do you mean you're pouring a lot of brake cleaner on those places, or do you mean you're rinsing it off with water afterwards?


OK noted, to the first two. Where can I learn about the function checks you mention?


OK, I found it at Midway. The manufacturer comments say it is non-toxic and you can actually use it for everything? What do you think about this?

Amazon also carries it and I noticed there that an "ARES 70004 - Precision Oiler Pen Applicator" pops as a suggestion on the page. The link to it is https://www.amazon.com/ARES-70004-Precision-Applicator-Lubricants/dp/B017L1MOJA . Do I need something like this? Or does it come out of the bottle top at the right speed by itself?

Midway also has a special on a cleaning kit from RealAvid (https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1020470260?pid=571152) that has all the normal cleaning stuff we discussed plus some items I won't be using based on your previous comments, plus a mat with little step by step diagrams, for $34.99. I had looked for a kleenbore kit, since that's what I have for my revolvers, and with much less stuff that one is $49.99, so this RealAvid one looks like a good deal.

Placed order for both items.


Classes are off the table until coronavirus is over. I will look for videos on those topics, thanks.


Noted, thanks.

.........................

Meanwhile I also ordered the Gold Dot, the red dot sight, and a case. Holding off on p-mags until tomorrow, they are apparently in almost as short supply as ammo. Brownells has 10 for $134.90, a LGS website says $12.30 apiece but don't know if they're actually in stock, going to call and find out.

Went to order the sling and am not clear on this. They have a padded version, which sounds like a good idea, but are all the Blue Force Gear Vickers "two-point"? Also, page says it fits an M-4 and to fit other weapons additional hardware is needed, where do I fit there?

................................

Thanks again, good night for now.

Again, for the wml https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0116GB4QK/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o1_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also picked up the green filter but it's not necessary.

 

[Skylerbone]

Lights: you’ll want to look for a light with Ten-Tap programming if you’re looking to try out different modes and program a sequence of options. I’ve never found strobe helpful when running scenarios. With 700-1,500 lumens of light to stare at a bad guy won’t likely be homing in on you but rather blinded by the light, as Manfred would say.

A big consideration with a 7 1/2” AR is real estate for mounting a tape switch and the light. I feel right side is a better location, out of your left eye’s field of view (right eye is on the sights), but mounted mine on the left as it’s not remotely activated.

Most any mounting option probably requires you to choose a different support option than magwell, something I would recommend anyway.

Sling: the sling obviously attaches to the rifle in some manner and the “additional hardware” will be something like a QD cup or sling loop attachment point. As the manufacturer won’t know ahead of time which method you are using, you’ll need to order swivels or paraclips to join sling to rifle. Magpul sells bare slings and slings meant for specific (QD or Paraclip ) attachment.

Red QD cup. Needs a corresponding QD swivel.


Angled QD cup.


Angled QD cup replaces receiver end plate.


Hook loop for HK or snaphook.


Receiver end plate with loop (hook attachment) and brace with simple sling loop (no hardware needed but not quick detach).

 

[taliv]

To use brake cleaner do you need to wear nitrile gloves? And have good ventilation?
When you say "hose off" do you mean you're pouring a lot of brake cleaner on those places, or do you mean you're rinsing it off with water afterwards?

i use nitrile gloves when i clean, yes. though now i have used up almost my whole supply due to covid. fortunately i don't clean very often lol
i know a lot of people who don't. when it gets on your skin, it doesn't sting or immediately kill you. it's just not healthy.

can is under pressure. it comes with a nozzle. i hose it off like you would use a garden hose to clean mud off your boots. it evaporates immediately and is like a degreaser. it removes all the oil from the surface. so it will look like it's changing the color of the gun, but when you put oil back on, it goes back to normal appearance. i've never used water.

Where can I learn about the function checks you mention?

search for them here. or youtube. they're very simple to do
there's a function check to make sure your trigger disconnector is operating properly. (dry fire and hold trigger back, cycle charging handle, then release and listen for click)
there's a check to see that your gas rings haven't worn out (hold bolt carrier face down on table and see if it collapses under it's own weight)
run your finger over the extractor to see if it feels "sharp" or "buttery"
see if you can pull extractor back with finger pressure (if you can, you need to replace spring)
measure action spring to see if it's too short
i'm probably missing some...

OK, I found it at Midway. The manufacturer comments say it is non-toxic and you can actually use it for everything? What do you think about this?

Amazon also carries it and I noticed there that an "ARES 70004 - Precision Oiler Pen Applicator" pops as a suggestion on the page. The link to it is https://www.amazon.com/ARES-70004-Precision-Applicator-Lubricants/dp/B017L1MOJA . Do I need something like this? Or does it come out of the bottle top at the right speed by itself?

Midway also has a special on a cleaning kit from RealAvid (https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1020470260?pid=571152) that has all the normal cleaning stuff we discussed plus some items I won't be using based on your previous comments, plus a mat with little step by step diagrams, for $34.99. I had looked for a kleenbore kit, since that's what I have for my revolvers, and with much less stuff that one is $49.99, so this RealAvid one looks like a good deal.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2433311938
i wouldn't use a precision applicator. i just squirt it in there. but my guns are messy and i don't care if i put too much on.

i would not use that cleaning kit from realavid. the only unusual thing you would want to clean an AR is a lug recess cleaning tool. basically little rolled up pieces of cotton stuck sideways on the end of a stick. don't use the carbon scrapers, and generally sectional rods are a bad idea. also that kit is meant to be more portable. probably half the price is the bag it's in

 

[luzyfuerza]

Lots of great comments in this thread.

The best resource I've ever seen for AR maintenance is this video:



Gunsight instructors do know a thing or two about the topic.

My favorite pullquote: "Lube is more important than clean."

 

[TonyAngel]

Red dots aren’t for everyone. If you’re going to go with open sights and they are going to be your primaries, i’d suggest fixed rather than flip up. flip ups are intended to be backups and aren’t as robust as fixed sights.

you may also consider a prismatic scope. i ran a trijicon TA44 1.5x ACOG for years. i recently got the bug to make a move back to red dots because i’ve gotten into AR pistols. i have to admit the red dot is a tad bit faster. i dropped one or two tenths of a second on some of my up close drills, but i really miss my ACOG when i start to get past 25 yards.

brake cleaner works well for getting your weapon spic and span clean, but you don’t need to do that. personally, i clean my guns in the garage. if i want to do what i consider to be a thorough cleaning, i just douse the parts with hoppes no. 9, do my scrubbing with a brush and then blow it out with compressed air outside. a small air compressor is cheap and infinitely handy. just blow it out, wipe it down and lube.

For ammo, i use the cheap russian stuff to shoot for fun. when i practice, i use some form of M193. i frequent academy sports and am on the email list for when they have it and i check in person by going to the store periodically.

i’ve been shooting a lot of Frontier lately. both the 5.56 and .223 is good ammo and can be had for around $.35 a round. i stopped yesterday to get some golf balls to shoot at and they had .223 on the shelf, even though their website said out of stock.

don’t kill your self worrying about what weight ammo and stuff. for defensive ranges, you’d be surprised at how little difference there is in point of impact.

i’m not looking to get into a debate about effectiveness with anyone. just throwing it out there. when last i checked freedom munitions had 55gr V-max for .42 a round. i’ve always found that stuff to be pretty effective.

otherwise, 77gr ammo is reportedly very effective. i think they call the civilian stuff 77gr otm.

 

[Skylerbone]

Adding to

Function Check: always helpful to have a means of checking firing pin protrusion. Check bolt hold open with all magazines. Check that magazines drop free when mag release is activated. Inspect carrier key for proper staking and signs of gas leaks. NEVER dry fire with the upper removed as it can damage the receiver.

You will also want to familiarize yourself with how to mortar a stuck round. This is one instance where having a larger, comfortable charging handle is very beneficial. Radian Raptor is a good choice.

Raptor SD (for suppressor use) top, standard Raptor bottom.

I meant to post these with the reply on slings. Here you can see different options, most slings arrive sans hardware. These are Magpul options, some of which include hardware. The secondary benefit to the MS3 & 4 are the ability to convert to single-point if you so choose.

Magpul MS3, with Paraclips for use with loops.


Magpul MS1, bare sling. This is how most slings arrive.


Magpul MS4, dual QD swivels.



Now on cleaning: I’ll add my opinion here for what it’s worth. Yes, lubrication is critical to function. Cleaning may not be as critical, but I will argue that it only enhances operation and will never detract from it. It saves wear on components. It gives opportunity to inspect for damage. In the case of a barrel obstruction, say a helpful mud dauber decided to rent out your barrel somehow, you’ll know pushing a rod through that it is clear.

You’ve got time, it’s not an onerous task, it’s a good habit. You won’t damage it. If anyone here has ever damaged a firearm from proper cleaning, please do speak up. I’m only 40 years into cleaning but not once have I damaged anything. 1-piece rod, pierce jag (pointy one), appropriate size patches, FP-10 or CLP.

Revisiting tools: no, you don’t have to own any, but it helps. Having a few picks, cotton swabs, an Armorer’s Block, and Wrench, a BevBlock, gunsmithing screwdrivers, and both T and Hex wrench sets means owning the tools to fix or replace any part you wish. You need not purchase all of them at once, but ought to consider a few if/when you feel comfortable.

 

[old lady new shooter]

Again, for the wml https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0116GB4QK/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o1_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also picked up the green filter but it's not necessary.

Thanks very much. I think I would like to see a video of it, I will look.

 

[old lady new shooter]

Lights: you’ll want to look for a light with Ten-Tap programming if you’re looking to try out different modes and program a sequence of options. I’ve never found strobe helpful when running scenarios. With 700-1,500 lumens of light to stare at a bad guy won’t likely be homing in on you but rather blinded by the light, as Manfred would say.

If strobe is really a bad choice I would be fine with a really bright light that I could manually turn on (by pressing a button, NOT turning something and NOT having to cycle through settings) momentarily, preferably with support hand, to glimpse BG before firing.

A big consideration with a 7 1/2” AR is real estate for mounting a tape switch and the light. I feel right side is a better location, out of your left eye’s field of view (right eye is on the sights), but mounted mine on the left as it’s not remotely activated.

.
"remotely activated"?

As for needed real estate, I guess I have to have the gun in front of me to figure this out. Hopefully picking it up tomorrow.

Most any mounting option probably requires you to choose a different support option than magwell, something I would recommend anyway.

In the one general rifle class I took a couple years ago (not my AR lesson which was a few months ago) we first shot a 10/22, then at the end of the class they said they brought some AR's if anyone wants to try one. Already on the 10/22 the classic support hand position of outstretched arm with palm facing up felt very awkward. On the AR I shot, which was a full-size one with an actual scope on it, that was even worse, I had to put it down after every three shots to rest. From looking at photos I thought a vertical foregrip would at least solve part of the problem, in that at least my hand could be vertical instead of palm-up, but in California where I lived at the time that makes the gun an "assault weapon", so I basically put aside any rifle thoughts until I would be able to move to a free country. When I mentioned all this to a friend with combined 40 years in military and law enforcement, he said, just use the mag well, that's what he does. Then another army vet told me the same thing. I tried it at my lesson and it was much more comfortable for me. I think I understand the reasoning for grasping further down the barrel, certainly on a full-size, but a 7.5" barrel is only a little longer than a full-size revolver.

Sling: the sling obviously attaches to the rifle in some manner and the “additional hardware” will be something like a QD cup or sling loop attachment point. As the manufacturer won’t know ahead of time which method you are using, you’ll need to order swivels or paraclips to join sling to rifle. Magpul sells bare slings and slings meant for specific (QD or Paraclip ) attachment.

I was sure I saw something in the Saint description about being "sling-ready" but when I looked now I didn't find that.

Here is the one I was planning to get, if this helps:

The gray piece is for their "instant adjustment" feature.

I can't really make heads or tails of your below photos. I'm guessing the buckle things I can see on the sling are supposed to attach to the gun, and the items in the photos are the intermediate piece that accomplishes the attachment? I googled "QD or Paraclip" and a bunch of videos and articles popped. Any recommendations for reliable ones to read and/or watch? And/or would you care to discuss your opinion as to pros vs cons of each?

Now that I'm thinking about this... I saw a video of this sling where the wearer was demonstrating the "instant adjustment" feature by changing the rifle back and forth from one shoulder to the other. I assume a "two-point" sling means a sling attached to the rifle in two places? So not all the buckles in the photo would be used... ? I'm getting a feeling like this is a whole area of expertise unto itself...

Red QD cup. Needs a corresponding QD swivel.
View attachment 923368

Angled QD cup.
View attachment 923369

Angled QD cup replaces receiver end plate.
View attachment 923370

Hook loop for HK or snaphook.
View attachment 923371

Receiver end plate with loop (hook attachment) and brace with simple sling loop (no hardware needed but not quick detach).
View attachment 923372

 

[old lady new shooter]

I'm gonna have to answer the remaining posts tomorrow I think, getting very sleepy here.

 

[horsey300]

If strobe is really a bad choice I would be fine with a really bright light that I could manually turn on (by pressing a button, NOT turning something and NOT having to cycle through settings) momentarily, preferably with support hand, to glimpse BG before firing.

.
"remotely activated"?

As for needed real estate, I guess I have to have the gun in front of me to figure this out. Hopefully picking it up tomorrow.


In the one general rifle class I took a couple years ago (not my AR lesson which was a few months ago) we first shot a 10/22, then at the end of the class they said they brought some AR's if anyone wants to try one. Already on the 10/22 the classic support hand position of outstretched arm with palm facing up felt very awkward. On the AR I shot, which was a full-size one with an actual scope on it, that was even worse, I had to put it down after every three shots to rest. From looking at photos I thought a vertical foregrip would at least solve part of the problem, in that at least my hand could be vertical instead of palm-up, but in California where I lived at the time that makes the gun an "assault weapon", so I basically put aside any rifle thoughts until I would be able to move to a free country. When I mentioned all this to a friend with combined 40 years in military and law enforcement, he said, just use the mag well, that's what he does. Then another army vet told me the same thing. I tried it at my lesson and it was much more comfortable for me. I think I understand the reasoning for grasping further down the barrel, certainly on a full-size, but a 7.5" barrel is only a little longer than a full-size revolver.


I was sure I saw something in the Saint description about being "sling-ready" but when I looked now I didn't find that.

Here is the one I was planning to get, if this helps:
View attachment 923537
The gray piece is for their "instant adjustment" feature.

I can't really make heads or tails of your below photos. I'm guessing the buckle things I can see on the sling are supposed to attach to the gun, and the items in the photos are the intermediate piece that accomplishes the attachment? I googled "QD or Paraclip" and a bunch of videos and articles popped. Any recommendations for reliable ones to read and/or watch? And/or would you care to discuss your opinion as to pros vs cons of each?

Now that I'm thinking about this... I saw a video of this sling where the wearer was demonstrating the "instant adjustment" feature by changing the rifle back and forth from one shoulder to the other. I assume a "two-point" sling means a sling attached to the rifle in two places? So not all the buckles in the photo would be used... ? I'm getting a feeling like this is a whole area of expertise unto itself...

Remotely activated, there are tactical lights that allow a pressure switch to be mounted closer to your hand, so you don't have to reach clear out to the end of your gun to turn it on, that Fenix comes with one, I'll try and get a picture of my setup later....
Real estate, having enough room to properly mount/use remote pressure switch.....
The Ryker grip I mentioned would make the gun MUCH more comfortable for you to maneuver, without breaking the vertical fore grip rules but allowing more hand purchase than an angled grip.
https://rykerusa.com/

 

[Texas10mm]

Putting a vertical foregrip on an AR pistol means you must pay the $200 tithe to the King.

 

[Skylerbone]

You’ll need two of these https://www.primaryarms.com/magpul-qd-sling-swivel-mag540 to mount your sling. These are QD swivels, they must be laced into the sling (which is just a strap).

QD: like so many other parts, quality varies. Buy a cheap one or expensive one in some cases and the swivel can pop out of the cup, detaching your sling. Push the button accidentally, detach your sling. Nothing to be overly concerned about if you check fit of the corresponding parts and exercise a modicum of care.

Paraclip or HK Hook IMO is a more secure set up and quicker to transition with from 2-point to single. Not something you would typically do, not beating other attachment methods by a mile, just no chance of tolerance stacking.

Again for Magpul sling, but you can see the connectors circled.

 

[Skylerbone]

A video, he talks fast, that shows these attachments in use.

 

[9mmepiphany]

I'm guessing the buckle things I can see on the sling are supposed to attach to the gun, and the items in the photos are the intermediate piece that accomplishes the attachment?

So not all the buckles in the photo would be used... ?

The buckles are for adjustment of the sling to accommodate how you intend to use it. The sling attaches to the gun via either QD or Para swivels

 

[old lady new shooter]

i use nitrile gloves when i clean, yes. though now i have used up almost my whole supply due to covid. fortunately i don't clean very often lol
i know a lot of people who don't. when it gets on your skin, it doesn't sting or immediately kill you. it's just not healthy.

can is under pressure. it comes with a nozzle. i hose it off like you would use a garden hose to clean mud off your boots. it evaporates immediately and is like a degreaser. it removes all the oil from the surface. so it will look like it's changing the color of the gun, but when you put oil back on, it goes back to normal appearance. i've never used water.

So, you wouldn't use the SLIP2000 EWL for everything?
If I wanted to use brake cleaner, what brand should I get?

search for them here. or youtube. they're very simple to do
there's a function check to make sure your trigger disconnector is operating properly. (dry fire and hold trigger back, cycle charging handle, then release and listen for click)
there's a check to see that your gas rings haven't worn out (hold bolt carrier face down on table and see if it collapses under it's own weight)
run your finger over the extractor to see if it feels "sharp" or "buttery"
see if you can pull extractor back with finger pressure (if you can, you need to replace spring)
measure action spring to see if it's too short
i'm probably missing some...

Thanks, I'm saving the above. After I learn what all the parts are I'll hopefully be able to understand it.

i wouldn't use a precision applicator. i just squirt it in there. but my guns are messy and i don't care if i put too much on.

i would not use that cleaning kit from realavid. the only unusual thing you would want to clean an AR is a lug recess cleaning tool. basically little rolled up pieces of cotton stuck sideways on the end of a stick. don't use the carbon scrapers, and generally sectional rods are a bad idea. also that kit is meant to be more portable. probably half the price is the bag it's in

I already wasn't planning to use the carbon scrapers since you told me not to.
I found out Hoppes makes a one-piece stainless steel cleaning rod which accepts all attachments, so I figure I can get that and still use the business pieces that come in the realavid kit, which had already left Midway by the time I saw your post.

 

[old lady new shooter]

Lots of great comments in this thread.

The best resource I've ever seen for AR maintenance is this video:



Gunsight instructors do know a thing or two about the topic.

My favorite pullquote: "Lube is more important than clean."

Thanks, bookmarked it on youtube.

Gunsite, maybe I could go for a couple of private lessons, I don't have the stamina for five full-length days in a row. One or two hours at a time would suit me much better.